2000 vw passat doortrigger falsing

Alright guys, installed an old Viper 5900 into a 2000 Vw Passat the other day. Remote start portion of this is working fine. What I'm having issues with is the alarm portion.

I went to blue/gray for door triggers, which also tests as the domelight wire. 12v with the door closed/domelight off and is a negative trigger when the doors are opened/domelight on. The problem I'm having is that every 80 min or so, this wire must change status enough to cause the viper alarm to register a door trigger alarm. I've tried using a relay to isolate this change of state - 85: Blue/gray door trigger wire, 86: 12v constant, 30: ground, 87: connected to Viper Green door trigger input wire. This didn't fix anything as the Viper alarm still goes off after 80min.

I've seen a couple other posts about this, one says to use TechDoc 1076 Diagram B, but there is no diagram B on this techdoc. Using diodes as listed, the domelight doesn't work at all, which doesn't let this wire function as a trigger.

I've also read about using a relay with Ground-When-Armed as 85, 86:constant 12v, 30: constant 12v w/10k ohm resistor, and 87 going to the Blue/gray wire. Any luck with this?

I've tested every wire coming into the car from the door boot and nothing tests as a door trigger wire, I was hoping to find a straight door trigger as opposed to a domelight/trigger wire. Nothing

Beyond taking the door panel off and physically testing the wires at the latch for a straight trigger wire, any suggestions? And by the way, on this car, the doors are not an open cavity once you get the panel off, there is a sheet of steel riveted to the inner door frame with rubber grommet access panels, which would make testing at the latch.....well fill in the blank.....

It won't be the door trigger unless you have a faulty door trigger.
The way the Passat's control unit is configured the blue/grey is on the output side of the sleeper circuit and NOT affected by the timer pulses.
What ARE are the trunk trigger (thin BROWN / black I believe) and hood (BROWN / red I believe)they go to the input side of the control unit and I always use 1076 (blocking diodes, cheaper than a relay)on them.
Going to the dome light feed is irrelevant and won't cure your problem, go to the trunk (tailgate) and hood triggers.

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

i'll have to look at that. I'm pretty sure when the viper unit is tripped, it shows a door as the zone, not the trunk or hood. I'll diode isolate each and see where we go.

PROBLEM SOLVED......You have to go into each door, there is a BROWN / Black wire that tests as a true door trigger, but does not come through the door boot. Have to run your own wires in. Hood and trunk diode isolation is irrelevent for this install.....