Printer Friendly Forum Posts - 06 ram remote start

Looking at getting the clifford 50.7 and was wondering what all the canmax400 will control and what I'll still have to tap into.Doorlocks,dome supervision,door triggers,etc?? I've looked at the module online but was hoping for some insight from people who've actually used it.And will I need anything else?? 528T?? Any help is appreciated !!

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installing, one day at a time..

The CHALL or the EVO-CHR seem to be the best opption on the chrysler products. They have a T-harness that plugs in and takes care of almost all of the connections. The only wires to connect from the remote start are power, ground and parking lights.

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Nissan Master Tech.

I'll still need the 528T for the wait to start wire and do the 2nd starter/accessory bypass right?? and it'll take care of the door triggers?? Thanks for the reply !!

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installing, one day at a time..

Idatalink Can modules can do it all for you. They also provide a T harness for your truck....

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Mike M2
Tech Manager
CS Dealer Services

I'm looking at getting the chall and chth2 t-harness.I'll need the t-harness right?? With this setup will I still need to wire up relays and resistors for the second starter and accessory?? Will it control the doorlocks?? Will I still have to diode isolate the door triggers?? and ..... do you have to use a pulse timer to hook up the wait to start or is there another way?? Any feedback is greatly appreciated ........Thanks !!

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installing, one day at a time..

So it looks like the t-harness makes life easier so I'll be using that .... any feedback on the other questions?? and will it control the parking lights? Thanks

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installing, one day at a time..

CHALL will not do parking lights or wait to start. Does everything else.

I just set the RS diesel mode (Viper 1401) to wait 30 secs instead of trying to hook up the wait to start.

T harness, 1 relay to isolate the MUX line, and parking lights with at 1.1K resistor is all that need to be hooked up. so about 4 wires to the vehicle. Xpresskit CHALL intructions show everything that needs to be hooked up and where to find them in the steering column except the parking lights which need to be found at the switch.

Only other issue I have with my 06 diesel is that the Tach mode does not seem to work. The CHALL is supposed to do Tach in D2D, but I cannot get the Tach to program and when in Tach mode, the truck will start, but will shut off after about 30 seconds.

Virtual Tach works well, but every now and then the truck will start and shut down after a few minutes. I think the Virtual tach is sensing the voltage drop from the grid heater turning on and thinking the car has stalled. Does not happen every time.

I appreciate the reply opelap.I'll probably be tearing into this thing this weekend,anybody else have any feedback??

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installing, one day at a time..

So I have the viper 5701,the chall,and the t-harness.It looks like i only have to power the alarm itself right,I don't have to mess with the power for the remote start harness?

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installing, one day at a time..

Sorry but I have a few more questions.Using the chth2 harness with d2d,it looks like you have to hook up the starter(+) wire to the ignition harness and run a wire off that to the chall.Does that mean I have to hook up power to the remote start harness??If I only hook up the main power there would be no output from the starter wire right??It's not saying to cut the starter wire so I'm assuming you need to hook up the starter side not key side??There's also a note that says,"Only connect for 1-way data-link" but I'm not sure what they mean by that.

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installing, one day at a time..

So is the starter + an input to the alarm or an output?? Did you have to hook up any of the power wires on the remote start harness??

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installing, one day at a time..

It's BOTH acts an an output during remote start and an ignition trigger for the alarm.

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

So are you suppost to cut and wire up key side and starter side like you would normally without the bypass?? Someone said with the bypass he only need to cut 1 wire for the mux,but if you're wiring up the starter wires would'nt you have to power the large guage wires on the remote start harness??which would mean running a larger guage wire from the battery

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installing, one day at a time..

I hooked everything up but its not remote starting without the key in the ignition and in the on position.sounds like the chall isn't working right??

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installing, one day at a time..

I powered all three inputs on the H3 connector. H3/2,5. and 8. This powers the Ign 1 which goes to the CHALL, Ign 2 which is spliced into the IGN wire, and Starter which is spliced to the starter wire if you have it.

Did the CHALL program correctly? Do you have the CHTH2 harness? If your dash does not light up without the key in the ON position, then the CHALL is not wired correctly or it is defective. The accessory circuit is activated by a specific resistance value being applied to the mux line which the CHALL takes care of. Did you isolate the MUX with a relay? Some of the earlier CHALL instructions do not show this. The latest version on the website does.

I would carefully review the CHALL instructions and ensure all your wires are correct and then program the CHALL again.

If that does not work, I would replace the CHALL.

Isolated the mux wire with a relay.Checked with dei and they said I only needed the RED / black to power the starter and I could get rid of the other wires on the harness,just needed to hook up ign to chall to tell the alarm when the key is turned on so I didn't hook up the ignition on the ignition harness,dei tech support said the chall would take care of it.I can't get the chall back into program mode,I hold down the program button while plugging the ch2 harness in but the red light won't come on.

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installing, one day at a time..

The accessories turn on in the car and you can hear relays turn on but it doesn't crank.thanks 4 the reply!

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installing, one day at a time..

If the car will not crank, and you have the Starter wire connected, you may need to connect the Ign 2 wire. Their own instructions show hooking up the Ign 2 wire from the RS to the Ign wire in the harness.

The MUX line only takes care of Starter 2 and accessory power. If you do not have an Ign line connected to the Vehicle, the Ign circuit has no power.

I always think the less wires hooked up the better, so I may disconnect my Ign 1 wire from power and see what happens. I thought the Ing 1 to the CHALL was to tell the CHALL when the RS was activated, but I guess that can happen over the D2D.

I hooked up the ignition 1 wire to the chall like the instructions say and hooked up the ign 2 to the ignition on the ignition harness.Now the problem is that when I program the unit it'll start after i close the door and lock it but if I cancel the start on the remote it won't start again.It's like the immobilizer won't let it.On tach mode it'll start then die and keep cranking trying to restart,on virtual tach it'll start then die but won't try to restart.When I remote start it,it waits 15sec and honks when it starts.It also unlocks the doors when I cancel the remote start and will only unlock the driver door when you unlock during remote start.Any ideas?? This thing is driving me crazy!! Thanks again for any replies

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installing, one day at a time..

Did you try starting it again with the key in the ignition? That will tell you if it is an immobilizer issue.

Sounds almost like the CHALL does not know the RS was shut off. If it is easy to do, hook up the H3/2 line to power. This will allow power to the Ign 1 line. Maybe I am right and the CHALL uses that line to activate and deactivate the immobilizer function.

Mine also will unlock all doors when truck is not running, but when the remote start is activated, it only unlocks the driver door. Not sure why but seems to be the way it works.

Yeah it seems like an immobilizer issue,it'll start with the key in.I tried a different chall unit and it did the same thing.I tried putting power through the ignition 1 and it still didn't work.The locking/unlocking issue is weird,I think I'll try calling dei tomorrow and see what they have to say.Unlocking when you cancel the remote start is really annoying.

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installing, one day at a time..

Got it all working but it unlocks during wait to start and locks when it starts.it only unlocks the driver door during remote start as well.

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installing, one day at a time..

Tech support said it unlocks during wait to start to disarm the immobilizer then rearms after the truck starts.I just don't like the fact it unlocks the doors,does yours do this opelap?? Does anyone know a different bypass that doesn't require a key for operation but wouldn't have these issues with the doorlocks during remote start?

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installing, one day at a time..

Not that I have noticed. I always get parking light flash when the truck unlocks and it does not happen on a remote start.

Do you have the factory security system? If so it may need to do it to keep the alarm from going off. I do not have it so it is not a problem for me.

Makes no sense to my why an unlock signal would have to be sent for the Sentry key system. The CHALL should have learned your code from the key you used to program it and supply it to the SKIM directly. That is one of the reasons for the T-Harness.

It has the keyless entry but no alarm.the problem was that I would have to wait 2 minutes in between remote starts or the truck would start then stop.I programmed as if it had the factory alarm and now it works no problem but unlocks the doors during wait to start.dei tech support says it's normal,I just don't like it.

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installing, one day at a time..