remote window autopage wiring?
Printed From: the12volt.com
Forum Name: Car Security and Convenience
Forum Discription: Car Alarms, Keyless Entries, Remote Starters, Immobilizer Bypasses, Sensors, Door Locks, Window Modules, Heated Mirrors, Heated Seats, etc.
URL: https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp?tid=124637
Printed Date: May 14, 2025 at 10:15 AM
Topic: remote window autopage wiring?
Posted By: thedipstick
Subject: remote window autopage wiring?
Date Posted: November 24, 2010 at 2:07 AM
I have a 97 Chevy C1500 extended cab and I am wiring up a Autopage C3-RS-730 remote start car alarm, no problems there so far.
I am also hooking up a Autopage Power window interface model AC-78 and I have found the info on the wiring at the kick panel but I cant seem to find the wires that are described.
Where and what wires do I use and what type windows do I have, A,B or C?
Also it states in the manual for the window module that I must have a diode across 85 and 86 of the relay for the stater disable for this to work, will any diode do?
Thanks in advance for any help.
Replies:
Posted By: thedipstick
Date Posted: November 24, 2010 at 1:28 PM
Anyone??
Posted By: howie ll
Date Posted: November 24, 2010 at 5:23 PM
Have you tried testing at the motors? Both wires should rest at ground, then 1 hoes to 12V+ whilst the other stays at ground. Switch the other way, the second will go to 12V+. Whilst the original stays on ground thus a type "A". Only you know the answer once you test it.
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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.
Posted By: t&t tech
Date Posted: November 24, 2010 at 5:41 PM
Hoes? Howard. First time i've heard that one.
Posted By: howie ll
Date Posted: November 24, 2010 at 6:11 PM
Been a very long day, started at 7:30am (2:30am your time) but I had to scrape the ice off first, just finished football, we beat the German club in the Champions League, but FAR more important, we beet the effing Arsenal last Saturday, now hoing to watch the ashes. By the way the spell checker caught that one.
Sorry YOU know what I meant even if my sub-conscious didn't.
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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.
Posted By: howie ll
Date Posted: November 24, 2010 at 6:12 PM
Notice how I spelt beat, I'm getting lazy. Sorry AGAIN.
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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.
Posted By: thedipstick
Date Posted: November 24, 2010 at 7:06 PM
howie ll wrote:
Have you tried testing at the motors? Both wires should rest at ground, then 1 hoes to 12V+ whilst the other stays at ground. Switch the other way, the second will go to 12V+. Whilst the original stays on ground thus a type "A". Only you know the answer once you test it.
No I haven't taken the door panel off yet. That was my next step, just wasn't sure if someone had done this on this type of truck before that could give me a few pointers.
Thanks for the info, I will dig deeper.
Posted By: thedipstick
Date Posted: November 24, 2010 at 8:08 PM
Also it states in the manual for the window module that I must have a diode across 85 and 86 of the relay for the stater disable for this to work, will any diode do?
Posted By: howie ll
Date Posted: November 25, 2010 at 8:10 AM
Normal is a 1 amp such as a 1N4XXX series anything from 4002 up, with the band towards 86, the ignition side of the coil, NOT the GWA side.
-------------
Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.
Posted By: thedipstick
Date Posted: November 26, 2010 at 12:59 AM
cool, thanks for the help
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