03 corolla not starting

This 03 corolla will not start with the key or the compustar cs600 remote start. The car has a steel key no transponder also the car is a base model with no power door locks or security. When attempting to start with the key the check engin light does not come on with the ingnition, All the other lights come on airbag, oil ,battery but no check engine light. I checked the ingnition switch and every thing is powering up corectly. When tring to start the car just cranks and does not fire. This was an old install over 2years ago. I know the remote starter is not at falt. Its seem like the ecm is not working or some thing like that. I checked all the fuses and the customer even installed a new battery in the car. Any ideas?

Possible the Compustars Tach wire is grounded out and messing up the ECM?  ( If the compustar is in Tach mode and the tach wire is going to the ECM. )

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Soldering is fun!

That sounds like a good idea. I checked out the install and I didnt use the tach wire I programed the starter for tachless mode.

Fuel or spark. Did that car REALLY not have an immobiliser?

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

did you check the large MAIN fuses in the underhood fuse box... i'd bet the IGN fuse is cooked.....

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Kevin Gerry
Certified Electronics Technician
MECP First Class Installer

Owner/Installer
Classic Car Audio
since 1979

I did not check fuel or spark as our shop is not a registered repairshop. Yes this car does not have an imobiliser or transponder key. The car has a all steel toyota key. Usualy these cars do have a chip in the but this one does not .I have even seen some toyota rav 4 2008 model with out the transponder in the key but the key has a remote built in to the key. And this example was a loded with all options vehical. Maybe a former rental?  Anywas I did check all fuses in the car.I even check the output of the ingnition switch all seemed good. This was also an intermitent problem as described by the customer and he assumed that it was caused by the 2year old starter install.

Is there a security light anywhere on the gauge cluster?
Is it possible a previous installer removed the chip from a key and secured it to the antenna shroud around the ignition switch and it's fallen off? Been there. Is there an antenna ring around the ignition switch? If yes that's your answer.

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

Sounds more likely that your customer has an 8 year old car that needs repairs and they are blaming it on the RS install. The Corollas with immobilizers that year have a light left of the column and it has security written on it. Some did not have it as you know. Bottom line is, if there is power out of the switch on BOTH ignition wires and the accessory when the key is on they need to go elsewhere for the repair...

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Mike M2
Tech Manager
CS Dealer Services

Why has no one suggested testing ignitions, accessory and STARTER
wire at the ignition switch.

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

I did....at 8:16AM.

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Mike M2
Tech Manager
CS Dealer Services

Being my usual anal self Mike, re-read your post, you've ASSUMED the person reading it knows...what here?

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

I agree with MikeM2.

If you tested all wires at the ignition switch for proper function, and given your installation a good looking over while you're in there, that's all you can reasonably do.

I know you did say you checked all fuses and tested all wires, but just to recap.......you have constant, accessory, two ignitions, and one starter......all working as designed, correct?

I know it's irritating when customers blame us, but at least you can hopefully convince the customer that the car has suffered some type of breakdown, and needs to be repaired by a mechanic.

Depending on what your shop does and does not get involved in, and how busy you are........couldn't hurt to quickly check for spark and fuel. Follow that with a little research on some Toyota forums, and try to find out if it's something you think you can repair. Try to find out what the dealer would charge, then call the customer and offer to fix it, or if not, they can come and tow it out of your shop and off to the dealer.

I've made a few bucks already replacing blower motor resistors in cars, as well as the unreliable ignition switches in Trailblazers.

I did check all of the ingnition wires and tested their out puts, everything tests correctly. And I was proud to shoe the customer my quality install. Everything was neet and correctly done. I also unpluged the harnes from the brain to prove to the customer that the starter was not the problem. The customer understands that the starter is not at falt. I always like to inspect an install if the customer has an electical problem that could possibly be caused by the starter. And I do this at no charge. In the past I have had customer come at me with a bill for repaires blamed on the starter install. I hate to argue with a customer so I have no problem spending a little time checking out an old install.

Anyways I was hopeing for some kinda quick fix for this car. Although I belive the ecm is at falt either a bad ecm or connection. The reason why I think this is that the check engine light does not come on with the ingniton. Unless the bulb is bad and the problem is something like a fuel pump. The customer did say the problem is intermintent.

Thank you everyone for your input.

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Solartech Window Tinting and Electronics,contract installer