bronco ii ignition wires for rem start
Printed From: the12volt.com
Forum Name: Car Security and Convenience
Forum Discription: Car Alarms, Keyless Entries, Remote Starters, Immobilizer Bypasses, Sensors, Door Locks, Window Modules, Heated Mirrors, Heated Seats, etc.
URL: https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp?tid=124677
Printed Date: May 16, 2025 at 8:17 PM
Topic: bronco ii ignition wires for rem start
Posted By: tresvatos
Subject: bronco ii ignition wires for rem start
Date Posted: November 26, 2010 at 8:42 PM
I have the color codes from here, but I cannot find the wires coming from the ignition that are the ones listed on the diagram here on the 12 volt..The vehicle is a 1990 Bronco II , which is the same as a Ranger for that year both made by Ford.. There are four wires listed and I can only find the Yellow Constant ... Then it tells me I need a Red and Light Green, Red and Light Blue, and then a Gray and Yellow ( which I can't find ) ..the weird thing is that there is a Pink wire with Green striping in a bundle next to the Yellow and also a Red and somewhat Dark Green, and a Gray wire all together.. These are thick lower gauge wires that Do Not go direct to the ignition in the steering column, but are behind the steering column and go towards the Stereo Area of Dash.. The 1990 Ford Ranger, not Bronco II diagram has these wires as the ones I need to T into for the Remote Start, but I wonder if these are the correct ones since they don't go into the ignition directly. One other problem is getting to the Black w blue stripe wire for the door pin.. The last thing on the not sure of list is that the Parking lights has two Brown wires coming from the switch and the remote start says to connect to The brown wire..so which one? The two are a large gauge and a smaller gauge Brown wire and not sure which one to connect to for Park Light Flash..The Remote Start is an Ultra made for Manual Xmissions..I am an electrician/crewchief on an AH-64 Apache, so I have a little knowledge of ""basic electronics ""...Thanks for the help! Greg
Replies:
Posted By: kreg357
Date Posted: November 26, 2010 at 9:03 PM
This info from AudioVox
Battery YELLOW (+) IGNITION SWITCH HARNESS Ignition 1 RED / LIGHT GREEN (+) IGNITION SWITCH HARNESS Accessory 1 GRAY / YELLOW (+) IGNITION SWITCH HARNESS Starter 1 RED / LIGHT BLUE (+) IGNITION SWITCH HARNESS
Bottom line is these are all guides and are sometimes wrong. It is best to use a Digital Multi Meter to locate and verify all wires.
Here is alink to Bulldog Security for their guide : https://www.bulldogsecurity.com/bdnew/vehiclewiringdiagrams.asp
Here is a link to AudioVox for their version : https://techservices.audiovox.com/login.aspx Sign-up is free. ------------- Soldering is fun!
Posted By: smokeman1
Date Posted: November 26, 2010 at 9:58 PM
Time to get the DMM out and start testing wires.
------------- When all else fails, Read the Instructions
Support the12volt.com Make a Donation
Posted By: tresvatos
Date Posted: November 27, 2010 at 2:27 AM
So suggest I spark chase the wires! Mil Lingo..! Hopefully I can get someone that has dealt with this type vehicle before and can just tell me... Thanx
Posted By: howie ll
Date Posted: November 27, 2010 at 10:23 AM
No one is going to tell you, I don't think I've ever gone in knowing what the wire colours were I ALWAYS test.
Spark chase? wth is that?
Listen to Kreg and Smokeman they are offering you the best advice you're going to get.
By the way your wire descriptions are wrong it's RED / light blue not red and light blue. Very confusing.
------------- Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.
Posted By: tresvatos
Date Posted: November 27, 2010 at 10:45 AM
thanks for the help..I will get the DMM and test the wires... ""Spark Chasing"" is a Military Term used that basically means test a circuit..
Posted By: howie ll
Date Posted: November 27, 2010 at 10:48 AM
Thanks for that info, I hope it means passively via the key rather than using a power probe.
------------- Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.
Posted By: smokeman1
Date Posted: November 27, 2010 at 12:18 PM
tresvatos, If you go to the download section of this site. download the install manual for the Viper 5701 and in it starting on page 13 is a section on finding the wires you need, (How to test for them and verify what they are). Use the wiring charts as a guide to get you close to what you need. What is on a wiring chart can be way off from what is in the vehicle. Even from one web site to the next.
No FM's or SOP's for this stuff...lol (20 yrs, 4 days Army. 13 bang)
------------- When all else fails, Read the Instructions
Support the12volt.com Make a Donation
Posted By: tresvatos
Date Posted: November 27, 2010 at 3:18 PM
I will reserch somemore..Thanks for the helpful info
Roger Smokeman1-Wilco ....13 Bang Bang ..Guess you are familiar with lovely Ft. Benning!
Posted By: smokeman1
Date Posted: November 28, 2010 at 6:39 AM
What model remote starter are you installing?
------------- When all else fails, Read the Instructions
Support the12volt.com Make a Donation
Posted By: tresvatos
Date Posted: November 29, 2010 at 8:58 PM
The Remote Start is an Ultra Start 1271-M model made for manual transmissions.. I researched and found this remote start to be the closest to what I needed and had good reviews from installers..
I am down at Sam Houston for a little bit until exodus by the way-out
Posted By: tresvatos
Date Posted: December 15, 2010 at 5:16 AM
I found the lock unlock wires, but need to know if I need to use relays..I amreferring to the wires running down the driver kick panel.. pink/green and pink / YELLOW, or simply tap into the wires.. The Ford Bronco II has reverse polarity triggered door locks, and Ultra Alarm has negative output triggers..
Then find where the coil is in the engine compartment to connect the tach wire and I should be good to go!
Posted By: kreg357
Date Posted: December 15, 2010 at 10:49 AM
This site has good info on Door Locks and Relays. Follow this diagram for your Bronco II Type C door locks : https://www.the12volt.com/doorlocks/page3.asp#5w------------- Soldering is fun!
Posted By: tresvatos
Date Posted: December 15, 2010 at 2:47 PM
Great i found the relay diagram..now my question is, do I tap into the Bronco's Lock and Unlock wires from the reverse polarity relay set-up, or do I need to cut and seperate the Lock/ Unlock wires a any point. Thank you
Posted By: kreg357
Date Posted: December 15, 2010 at 3:40 PM
As per the diagram for Type C Door Locks, you must cut the vehicles Lock and Unlock wires to connect them thru their respective relays.
------------- Soldering is fun!
Posted By: smokeman1
Date Posted: December 15, 2010 at 7:44 PM
I did a type C Lock on my brothers dodge ram. This link might help to figure it out: https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp~TID~100158~KW~thepencil~PN~1~TPN~1
The first time I tried it on one side, I blew a fuse, so I had to reverse the wires I cut and attached to the relays and it work great. ------------- When all else fails, Read the Instructions
Support the12volt.com Make a Donation
Posted By: tresvatos
Date Posted: December 16, 2010 at 7:14 PM
I apologize for seemingly aimless questions, but now I have run into another pop question..the wire diagram tells me I have a PINK starter wire, and the thing I see now under the dash is ( 2 ) pink wires..so should I choose one? If so where would I put the start interupt and the start engage wir for that matter if I have two pink starter wires.. I also show on my wire diagram that I have two ignition wires..so which one should I use..? I beleive I have figured out the door lock /unlock relay hump I had run into..Thanks
Posted By: kreg357
Date Posted: December 16, 2010 at 7:44 PM
It's best to actually test the ignition wires with a Digital Multi Meter or Computer Safe LED test light. Bulldog does list two Ignition wires and the Ultra Start has a 5th relay that is defaulted to IGN2. All that is left is to locate and verify the correct Pink Starter wire. No Starter Kill or Anti-Grind is necessary unless you need it. Just run the Yellow Starter wire to the right Pink wire.
------------- Soldering is fun!
Posted By: tresvatos
Date Posted: December 17, 2010 at 4:42 PM
Well I got everything hooked up, and soldered the tach read wire to the GREEN/ YELLOW tach coil wire.. I also grabbed and hooked into a PINK start wire under the steering column at the ignition harness, since there was one there and two pink wires in the main harness under the dash. I fought with the module to get out of Manual trans. reservation mode, and now when I try to remote start I get the 7 flashes , which indicates the bypass for security is not working( does not have sec. system from fact. . 1990 Bronco II) or the tach is not being read..Could it be possible the ignition pink wire is not the right wire and the Module is reading that a " factory security system may be the cause?? Thanks
Posted By: kreg357
Date Posted: December 17, 2010 at 5:25 PM
I believe 7 Flashes means you have not done a successful Tach Learn. Double check your Tach wire connection. Do a Factory Reset and then start the car with the key. The parking lights should come on when you turn the key to ON. Allow it to idle ( preferrably with warm engine and slow idle ) for 45 seconds. After 35 seconds you should get the Tach Learn confirmation.
------------- Soldering is fun!
Posted By: tresvatos
Date Posted: December 18, 2010 at 8:48 PM
I have no idea what is goin on > I tested the tach wire and it read 28-27 AC current even when starting.. I tried the tach quick learn and put in reservation ( manual mode ) and I still get the 7 flashes..Im at a loss now..
Posted By: smokeman1
Date Posted: December 18, 2010 at 9:37 PM
Did the following happen for you tach learn? This is from page 12 of the install manual.
1) Turn the ignition key to the “ON” position. The park lights will turn “ON”
2) Start the vehicle with the key. The LEDs on the antenna will turn on if a proper tach signal is detected**, after 30-35 seconds the park lights will flash and the siren will chirp twice to confirm Tach Learn.
That AC Voltage seems awfully high to me. Maybe because it is an older vehicle. Usually it's 3-6 volts.
------------- When all else fails, Read the Instructions
Support the12volt.com Make a Donation
Posted By: kreg357
Date Posted: December 19, 2010 at 6:33 AM
Most wire guides list the Tach as Dark GREEN/ YELLOW at the coil. As smokeman1 said, the Tach signal should be in the range of 1 - 6 volts AC. Ultra Starts are very good at syncing up with a Tach signal, so you might try a Fuel Injector. Most injectors have two wires. Compare the wires on several injectors. One color should be found at all injectors. The other wire should be a unique color for each injector. That unique colored wire is the one you want. Always do a Factory Reset on the Ultra Start prior to trying to learn the Tach signal. The Quick Learn or Re-Learn will only work after a valid successful original Tach Learn. Having the Parking Lights and Horn hooked up is very helpful during Tach Learn and option programming.
------------- Soldering is fun!
Posted By: tresvatos
Date Posted: December 21, 2010 at 1:49 AM
I finally connected the yellow start wire to the factory Pink wire after the clutch safety switch, and this worked for the remote start. I was having to go thru the reservation program every thime to get it to crank back using the remote start though. Crank -Park Brake-press control 3 (#) button on Key Fob- open close doors and press (*) or remote start button on Key fob to tuen off vehicle. I disconnected in order to hide interior wir wires and use wire loom and mount under dash, and after all this could not get the module to TACH learn again, so I dont know what happened .. I tested TACH read wire and still get same reading, just the LEDs on the antenna dont blink to acknowledge a successful TACH read. I am goin to test wire tomorrow . I still wonder why when it did work I had to go thru whole reservation mode process even pressing key Fob buttons.. thanks for the help!
Posted By: kreg357
Date Posted: December 21, 2010 at 6:17 AM
For the Ultra Start to do an initial automatic Tach Learn and few things have to happen.
From a Factory Reset condition, the Ultra Start brain is waiting for a normal key start to begin its automatic Tach Learn process.
When you start the car with the key, the Ultra Start sees the Ignition1 Blue wire to go +12v ( so IGN1 must be directly connected to the cars IGN1 wire ). The Ultra Start will acknowledge seeing the IGN1 wire going to +12v by turning on the parking lights and it enters into the Tach learn mode.
Next the Ultra Start waits to see the Starter1 wire go to +12v for a short period ( so the Yellow Starter wire must be directly connected to the cars Starter1 wire ). This means not only did you turn the key to ON but you went to the START position to start the car. The Ultra Start assumes the car started and begins monitoring the Blue/White Tach wire for an acceptable signal. If it sees a valid tach signal within the set time period it confirms a good Tach Learn by flashing the Parking Lights and beeping the horn 2 or 3 times depending on the model. If the Tach wire is not connected or no valid tach signal was detected the parking lights and horn go 4 times on Tach Less mode capable models.
Some Ultra Start models can only run in Tach mode. Some newer Ultra Start models have the capability of doing a Tach Learn manually on cars that do not have a Starter wire ( newer GMs ). You can also fool the Ultra Start and get it to enter into the Tach Learn process on these cars by momentarily jumpering +12v to the unused Yellow Starter wire while the car is running.
------------- Soldering is fun!
Posted By: tresvatos
Date Posted: December 21, 2010 at 4:03 PM
now I am having trouble getting the Ultra Start to stay in Reservation mode. I will unplug and reset system, them apply Park Brake press the # button on remote fob, then turn key off ( engine still runs ) then open, and close door, then cut-off using key fob * button. Then the system will crank the Bronco II perfect and I can use it as it is intended. But it will only crank one time doing this with remote start, then i get the 4 flashes from park lights on next try. I thiink I need to know how to keep the syatem in resevation mode, becuse it seems it is only getting the program for one remote start, then goin out of MANUAL reservation mode......wish now I would have just paid the installer the 150 to do this........I still have the unlock/lock relays to tackle as well.. Thanks for all the help!
Posted By: tresvatos
Date Posted: December 22, 2010 at 2:01 AM
Well I think maybe I have the remote start part working now....The reservation modde I have to put gear shift in neutral then apply park brake, then press regular brake twice. After that remove key and exit Bronco II, once the door is shut the engine dies. I can then start the vehicle back from remote start. Tomorrow I am goin to attempt to wire loom everything and install the door lock/unlock relays. I have the two relays and the wire diagram for reverse polarity door locks that are the Bulldog Type C. I plan on cutting the pink/green and Pink / YELLOW wires right behind the driver's headlight and interfacing the relays right there in the door lock circuit. If this doesn't sound right please let me know! Thanks for all the help so far, hence the donation !
Posted By: tresvatos
Date Posted: December 22, 2010 at 6:07 PM
 I wired the two relays into the two pink / YELLOW and then into the pink/green wires behind the drivers headlight and I keep popping a fuse with NO unlock, or lock action when the unlock/lock button on alarm key fob. I wired this exactly the way the reverse polarity relay diagram posted on this site. I am wondering now if I intercepeted the wires in the right place now, although the wire diagram does specify behind drivers headlight. This is a 1990 Bronco II.. Thanks for your help, Greg
Posted By: smokeman1
Date Posted: December 22, 2010 at 6:35 PM
Try reversing the pink / YELLOW and the pink/green on your relays. Try just doing the unlock or the lock one at a time. And test the end of those lock/unlock wires with your DMM. The first time I did one like this I blew a fuse. I thought I also had it right by the diagram, but I had it backwards.
Maybe this post for a dodge ram truck will help. The wire colors are different but the testing of the lock/unlock wires should be the same.
https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp~TID~100158~KW~thepencil~PN~0~TPN~2 ------------- When all else fails, Read the Instructions
Support the12volt.com Make a Donation
Posted By: tresvatos
Date Posted: December 22, 2010 at 7:45 PM
Smoke man, would you say that I have the wires patched into the factoty harness at the correct place on the vehicle wiring harness... most all the vehicle diagrams state that the lock/unlock wires Pink / YELLOW and Pink/Green are located behind Drivers headlight, which is where I patched in...I hope this is the right place because I took time and soldered and wire-loomed everything leading to the relays...Thanks
Posted By: smokeman1
Date Posted: December 22, 2010 at 8:09 PM
I would only say that, IF, I was there testing those wire with my DMM. You have to test all wires to verify that you have found the correct ones. If you read through the link on the previous post it will explain how to test for those wires ( 5 wire reverse) and might help you figure it out.
As I said before, I did one on my brothers truck. I did the lock first and it blew a fuse. I reversed the wires and it worked fine, then I worked on the unlock. ------------- When all else fails, Read the Instructions
Support the12volt.com Make a Donation
Posted By: tresvatos
Date Posted: December 23, 2010 at 3:55 AM
Well I had the weirdest thing happen last night.. I decided to wait on the door locks and start putting the interior of my Bronco II back together.. I did that and tried to put my Bronco II in reservation mode to test the remote start, but when I pressed the park brake and gave the regular brake the second push ( which is when lights flash to take key out ) the module started buzzing badly and interior lights went dim-bright-dim-bright, until I turned on my regular park lights with the headlight switch..the only thing I can think that would cause this would be I lossened a ground wire when i was putting the interior panels back on...any other guesses......I take one step forward and two steps back it seems.....
Posted By: tresvatos
Date Posted: December 25, 2010 at 12:24 AM
well what a wonderful Christmas present!! After a week of fooling with the install I belive for once everything is working! Thankl you everyone on here so very much!!
Posted By: tresvatos
Date Posted: December 25, 2010 at 7:25 PM
Well I thought I had this figured out for a second, but now the dang Remote Start will not go into Reservation mode, which has to be done to get the Remote Start function to work. The remote start was buzing terribly when i tried to use any of the functions, like unlock, lock, or put into reservation mode. I would successfully get to the part where I needed to tap the Brake twice after putting on Ebrake, and the Ultra start Module began buzzing really bad and my interior lights start flashing, this would go on until I switched on my Park Lights manually.. I am really confused, so I checked the Internet and it seems this may be caused by a bad ground, so with that said I tested the ground to module and got a reading of 3.56 Volts. I found a good chassis ground and bolt and ran a heavy gauge wire to the ground PIN on module and soldered the new ground with heavy ga. cable about a 1/4 inch from Pin, and re-tested with 12. 6 volts passing at the PIN connection while disconnected from module. Now I don't hear any buzzing from module during unlock/lock, but I cannot get the System back into Reservation mode now for remote start to take place. I turn on ignition, apply Ebrake, then press brake twice, and nothing happens.. Really frustrating, because I had it working before. I have tested all contacts for good continuity as well. The thing I also had a question about is that The Unlock/Lock negative outputs have a 12v current on one or the other now coming back from door lock relays, so don't know if this effects anything. Also since my heater wasn't coming on earlier in set-up I assigned the optional 12 volt (white ) wire to my seecond accessory wire in vehicle harness. The bronco II has (2 ) Ignition wires according to Bulldog Sec, and I only tapped into one, so should I remove ( white ) wire from my accessory wire on vehicle and tap that into the second Ignition wire on vehicle harness...Thanks for reading this, I really appreciate all the help! Greg
Posted By: tresvatos
Date Posted: December 26, 2010 at 6:13 PM
After a long-long day after Xmas I attached a relay to the second ignition, ran a totally new and heavier ga. tach wire, cleaned engine ignition coil, and soldered every connection. I did not have my second ignition powered before and read on some ford ranger forum, that the second ignition needed to be powered as well. So after a long week of dealing ith this, I hope my problems with the Ultra Start Install are over finally.. Defiantely don't want to do that again.. Thank s to all who helped me with some guidance throughout the install! Greg
|