where did i go wrong, remote start
Printed From: the12volt.com
Forum Name: Car Security and Convenience
Forum Discription: Car Alarms, Keyless Entries, Remote Starters, Immobilizer Bypasses, Sensors, Door Locks, Window Modules, Heated Mirrors, Heated Seats, etc.
URL: https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp?tid=124712
Printed Date: July 15, 2025 at 10:21 AM
Topic: where did i go wrong, remote start
Posted By: joelee
Subject: where did i go wrong, remote start
Date Posted: November 28, 2010 at 8:50 PM
I have read though most of the pages here on Remote Start and still can not get mine to work. If anyone wants where i have made a mistake tell me i have a Diagram what Color of wire and place i connected it. If you Cannot See what i have wrote please post i will write it out if i must
Replies:
Posted By: joelee
Date Posted: November 28, 2010 at 9:19 PM
RED / white- auxiliary trunk release= not used
Red- 12 V constant = yellow@ ignition harness
Brown-Siren = red wire on Siren
WHITE/ brown- Flex parking light relay 87A = not used
Violet- door trigger + = BLACK/ light blue@ Dash
Blue- trunk instant trigger = not used
Green- door trigger - = not used
BLACK/ White- domelight supervision = not used
WHITE/ blue- remote start/turbo timer = not used
White- parking light = PURPLE / white @ Dash
Orange- ground when armed = not used
Harness 2 = not used
Harness 3
Pink- Iginition 1 = light GREEN/ purple @ ignition harness
RED / white- don't know = not used
Orange- accessory = gray / YELLOW @ ignition harness
Violet- starter wire= (wire going to starter) RED / Blue @ ignition harness
Green- starter wire= (wire going to key) RED / Blue @ ignition harness
Red- 12 V constant (for ignition) = yellow @ ignition harness
Pink/white- flex relay= not used
Pink/Black- Flex relay= not used
RED / black- 12 v constant (for accessory and starter) = yellow @ ignition harness
remote start Input
BLACK/ White- neutral safety = ground
Violet/white- tach = tan / YELLOW underhood firewall by passenger
Brown- brake = light green @ brake pedal
Gray- hood pin = installed, Hood closed
Posted By: smokeman1
Date Posted: November 28, 2010 at 9:23 PM
It would help if you posted what year, make, and model of vehicle this was installed in. Also what make and model of bypass was used, if any.
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Posted By: joelee
Date Posted: November 28, 2010 at 9:23 PM
Posted By: 91stt
Date Posted: November 28, 2010 at 9:24 PM
What is the year, make and model of your vehicle?
What do you mean that it still does not work?
Does it crank? Does it start and than shuts down? etc.
The more information you provide the better we can assist you.
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This information is provided only as a reference.
All circuits should be verified with a digital multi-meter prior to making any connections.
Posted By: joelee
Date Posted: November 28, 2010 at 9:27 PM
2000 mercury mountaineer Using PKALL for bypass Not programed yet having problem with it
Posted By: joelee
Date Posted: November 28, 2010 at 9:33 PM
Can Start with key but not with Remote start After hiting button box clicks then nothing no starter no lights on dash nothing
After connect pink to ignition wire Dash would light up be no remote start ( Remote did not work at all, maybe the Box thought the tuck was already on) With Pink connected Started truck with key, Couldnt Turn off truck with key remove fuse from H3 Red Wire truck went off
Posted By: smokeman1
Date Posted: November 28, 2010 at 10:02 PM
First of all, did you use a DMM to test and verify every wire prior to connecting the H3 Harness?
The Red, RED / White, and the RED / Black need to be connected to the Yellow. It looks like you have a 2nd ignition that needs to be connected to the Pink/White of the H3 harness. WWW.bulldogsecurity.com lists the 2nd ignition as BLACK/ Lt Green. https://techservices.audiovox.com/ is another service for vehicle wiring.= as well as www.the2volt.com has a vehicle wiring section. All of these have a bit of a difference for your vehicle on the wiring.
I'm guessing that this is a Viper 5701 remote starter??? ------------- When all else fails, Read the Instructions
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Posted By: joelee
Date Posted: November 28, 2010 at 10:08 PM
So i need to Add RED / White to Yellow
and Pink/white to lt GREEN/ black and retest system
Will this stop Dash Light from being on at all times?
Posted By: joelee
Date Posted: November 28, 2010 at 10:15 PM
Yes this is the Viper 5701
I didnt know the truck had a 2nd ignition
Reading Diagram
Pink/White and Pink/ Black Are Default to Ignition 2 so do i connect both to BLACK/ Lt Green
I went to so many Site just so happen the site that i printed did not mention 2nd ignition
Posted By: joelee
Date Posted: November 28, 2010 at 10:25 PM
OK i checked 12volt Site again and am confused 12 Volt has no mention of BLACK/ Lt Green but bulldogsecurity.com does 12 volt has 3 ignition wires
I believe people more than sites, you say BLACK/ lt green im with BLACK/ lt. green
but how in the world do you read those thing i like pic diagram i lot more
Posted By: smokeman1
Date Posted: November 28, 2010 at 10:26 PM
Have you used a DMM to test and verify the wires that you are connecting to????
We can't SEE under your dash to know what you have. I don't know for sure if you have a 2nd ignition. Only you can do that.
What make/model is the remote starter. ------------- When all else fails, Read the Instructions
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Posted By: joelee
Date Posted: November 28, 2010 at 10:35 PM
Lt GREEN/ Purple Does Control Dash Cut Wire Dash No longer Worked
Using Viper 5701 with PKALL on 2000 Mercury Mountaineer 5.0L V8(Same as Ford Explorer) Not the 4.6
Posted By: smokeman1
Date Posted: November 28, 2010 at 10:41 PM
In the installation manual, starting on page 13 is a section for Finding the wires you need. As far as trusting people vs sites, they are only a guide. Trust your DMM and YOUR testing of the wires. You are the one under the dash.
------------- When all else fails, Read the Instructions
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Posted By: howie ll
Date Posted: November 29, 2010 at 6:33 AM
Don't connect the pink black to anything , read the instructions.
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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.
Posted By: howie ll
Date Posted: November 29, 2010 at 6:38 AM
Also why the purple door trigger wire rather than the green?
Think DEI DTI Mazda for the door triggers unless that unit can be programmed for open circuit door triggers (Ford's crazy door triggering). I know the 5902 can I don't know about the others.
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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.
Posted By: joelee
Date Posted: November 30, 2010 at 12:06 AM
Connecting to Pink/white to the BLACK/ green and the RED / White to Yellow(12v) dont solve the problem with the dash been on at all times.
I think the system think the remote start has been activated, i unpluged all the harnesses and plug them back in back dash came back on.
I have no ideal what the problem is
Posted By: KPierson
Date Posted: November 30, 2010 at 6:28 AM
Disconnect the wires one by one until the problem goes away. You either have something connected incorrectly or the remote start has a bad relay. You could, alternatively, meter each wire to see where you have voltage when you shouldn't. It sounds like possibly your IGN1 output is powering the ignition at all times. I would start there.
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Kevin Pierson
Posted By: joelee
Date Posted: November 30, 2010 at 2:50 PM
It is that i know, by remove Pink (ign 1 ) problem stops. Pink (ign1) gets power from Red (12v Constant) which is connected to Yellow (12v Constant on Car). Removing Red (12v Constant) Stop problem too. This problem appears only when H3 is connected So the problem is with it. Is there a wire on harness that acts as ground or redirects power when system inactive that i have not connect or connect incorrectly.
Neutral Safety Switch has No Control over this problem, flipping switch did nothing
Posted By: KPierson
Date Posted: November 30, 2010 at 3:24 PM
The only thing that will cause the unit to output 12vdc on the ignition output is if you remote start the vehicle.
Unhook the red wire and the pink wire completely, unhook the main harness from the brain, and measure resistance between red and pink. It sounds like it will read ~0 which will indicate a stuck relay. It may be possible to strike the relay to unstick it, but in my experiance once a relay contact has stuck it won't be as reliable as a new relay. If you determine the relay is bad I would recomend a warranty replacement. ------------- Kevin Pierson
Posted By: howie ll
Date Posted: November 30, 2010 at 3:36 PM
Kevin, I've had a couple of UK Clifford G5 units with sticky relays, as soon as I mentioned flicking the sides of the units I got instant replace authorisations, in truth this problem appears to have arisen in the last year or so, someone in the US had the same problem with a Clifford AG 5.1 which is effectively the same as our Cliffords. Never known this before in nearly 20 years of installing the product.
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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.
Posted By: joelee
Date Posted: December 01, 2010 at 8:09 PM
Pink (ignition) is stuck open is there a work around available where i can use Flex relay (Ign 2) instead of (Ign 1) to Start the truck with remote start
Posted By: KPierson
Date Posted: December 01, 2010 at 8:54 PM
Sounds like it is stuck closed, not open.
All the car needs is an IGN feed - the car doesn't care if the output is labeled 1, 2, or 535667435dcer as long as it is 12vdc before and during the crank cycle.
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Kevin Pierson
Posted By: joelee
Date Posted: December 01, 2010 at 8:57 PM
lol right
Posted By: joelee
Date Posted: December 01, 2010 at 8:59 PM
Does any someone know a good way to do this
Posted By: smokeman1
Date Posted: December 01, 2010 at 9:01 PM
How many relays would you need for that "535667435dcer" output. haha
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When all else fails, Read the Instructions
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Posted By: smokeman1
Date Posted: December 01, 2010 at 9:09 PM
Couldn't you use the pink wire from the relay out harness, with a relay? (pink rs ignition 1)
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Posted By: joelee
Date Posted: December 01, 2010 at 9:12 PM
Quick question
Red 12v Constant on H3 is this wire connect to Full time power from truck ( how i got it now)
or is the Ign wire cut like starter is? Only way is can think to not Dash be on at all times
Posted By: smokeman1
Date Posted: December 01, 2010 at 9:22 PM
Don't cut the ignition wire!!!!
-------------
When all else fails, Read the Instructions
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Posted By: KPierson
Date Posted: December 01, 2010 at 9:22 PM
smokeman1 wrote:
How many relays would you need for that "535667435dcer" output. haha
Well IGN1 is one relay, IGN2 is one relay, so I would assume 535667435dcer would be 7 relays????  ------------- Kevin Pierson
Posted By: joelee
Date Posted: December 02, 2010 at 6:52 AM
Now Rewired using Pink/White (Ign 2) as Ign1 No Longer have Dash Problem. Alarm seem to work also now, When locking truck Dash flashs for 30sec then Blue light starts to flash on Valet switch. But Remote Start still Does not work, Will Check Trans Mode and reset Tach to see if it works.
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