07 lexus es350 viper 5301 problem

Having a strange issue cannot seem to solve.

The car remote starts fine, unlocks / locks fine, but if I lock the car and leave it for 5 minutes, the factory alarm goes off.

Some backround on what I've done, I did not hook up the factory disarm wires because the car says it doesn't have any, that a double pulse to the unlock wire will disarm the alarm.

I have my unlock pulse set to 0.8, I tried 0.4, did nothing, I am using a fortin bypass and have keysense hooked up, and status out, tx, rx, ground and 12v+

One way I did get it to work was to hook up the factory disarm / arm wires to the lock / unlock wires, then set the car to active lock, so it would unlock itself, remote start, and then relock after 30 seconds, but I don't want to have to do that.

I also thought about grounding the hood pin so the car would think it were open and then the alarm would not work.

I am in a bind here, can anyone help?

Thanks.

Dom

You NEED to go to the factory ARM/DISARM wires as these will unlock/disarm, Lock/Arm. Do not just go the lock unlock wires. Changing the pulse time is not what they mean by a "double pulse" There is actually a option under one of the programming menus that will allow you to change the pulse from single to double

Factory Alarm ARM(lock) / brown / - /dr kick or fuse box, top left, 16 pin plug, pin 16

Factory Alarm Disarm(Unlock / purple(Double Pulse) / - / driver kick or BECU, 26 pin plug, pin 10

It is under Menu 1, Item 5, Option 2.

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I have noticed that when I remote start the car the keysense wire that I hooked up to the bypass does not show continuity to ground when the car is starting, whether the alarm is going off or not.

I am attempting now to run 2nd status out to the keysense wire to give this wire ground while remote starting, and unhook it from my fortin bypass. Will check back after this.

Wait those pinouts are for my car, the 2 sites I used, wirecolor and audiovox do not list factory disarm/arm wires for this car. I am more than happy to hook these up I just didn't know they existed

Yes, I know of the double pulse menu, I have that set, but without having the factory disarm wire hooked up, the car is not double pulsing the unlock before I start it.

Connect the lock / unlock wires directly to the factory alarm/disarm wires, and make sure that you have a double pulse set for the unlock and you should be all good to go!

K I'm looking for those now, already ran wires into the door, grrr, but yea I see a bunch of purple wires going into harnesses in the drivers kick, is there any way to test for this wire? Thank you so much.

Dom

I'm not seeing these wires, there is no 16 pin harness in the top left of the fusebox, there are fuses there, and in the drivers kick there are lots of purple wires but no brown wires I see, also I don't know where the becu is

Would it be better if I diode isolated the status out wire and hooked one up to my fortin bypass and one up to keysense? And if so, which way does the stripe face the status out wire, or the other two? Do I need a certain type of diode or would any do?

status to keysense generally is what i do on toyotas to disarm the alarm as long as it's a FACTORY alarm not pos dealer addon.

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A DMM is a beautiful thing.

MECP Advanced Installer Certified.

you also could go ahead and do the unlock before start then have it relock using the negative starter output to your lock wire (diode isolated obviously)

-------------
A DMM is a beautiful thing.

MECP Advanced Installer Certified.

I just took the - status output wire, put a butt connector on the end, then took two diodes, with the cathode facing the alarm brain, and hooked one to keysense and one to the fortin's status output wire, fired it up and it worked. Thank you for all your help.

Please anyone leave feedback if they disagreed with what I did, it was the only way I could really think of since I didn't have the disarm wires, thanks.

Dom

why not just use 2nd status? (blue/white)  and use 1st status (blue) for the bypass?

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Kevin Gerry
Certified Electronics Technician
MECP First Class Installer

Owner/Installer
Classic Car Audio
since 1979

it accomplishes the same thing.

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A DMM is a beautiful thing.

MECP Advanced Installer Certified.

Yes, I overlooked that, I was about to hook up the 2nd status out, I usually hook it do defrost, I know there is latched and pulsed, but I did not know I had a setting that would shoot a constant ground.

I had no problems doing it the way I did, I was worried that the cathodes were facing the wrong way at first, but it seemed to work out.

I was having an issue though where i could not reset virtual tach with my bitwriter, usually I can change it to not initialized and run it, and let it re-learn, but it would not let me do that, whenever I changed that value to not initialized it said unable to write to unit, but I could change the value to anything else. Was very strange.

I would have just done it by hand, but I didn't hook up door triggers, I will have to just ground one of the door triggers and try resetting it with the valet switch I guess.