suggest a simple remote start for gift?

I'm looking to buy/install a remote start system for my girlfriend for chrstimas.

She has a 2000 Jeep Grand Cherokee Laredo. I've been working on cars for 15 years as a hobby, but mostly performance stuff. I've wired one keyless entry and one alarm system but never on a car with a transponder key.

I searched and found another member recommended this bypass unit for her Jeep:

https://cgi./ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=230465921892&ru=http%3A%2F%2Fshop.%3A80%2Fitems%2F%3F_nkw%3D230465921892%26_sacat%3D%26_ex_kw%3D%26_mPrRngCbx%3D1%26_udlo%3D%26_udhi%3D%26_sop%3D12%26_fpos%3D%26_fspt%3D1%26_sadis%3D%26LH_CAds%3D%26_fvi%3D1&_rdc=1

Can someone recommend to me an AFFORDABLE simple remote start system that I could install for her? Her factory remote seems to have an alarm built in, but not sure if pressing lock twice and the horn beeping is an alarm or just lock confirmation. I'd like to keep her down to using just one remote to work the locks and remote start, but if it's too expensive, she can deal with having two remotes.

Please help :) There are so many cheap chinese options that googling for recomendations is proving futile and endless..

Well, I did some more research and it looks like the best (easiest) bypass for Her jeep is an iDatalink ADS-ALSL CH module.

On their install page it mentions an iDatalink (RS232) port required to eliminate a bunch of wiring splices. Is there a cheap/simple remote start system that has this option to reduce wire tapping that I'd have to do? Is this the same as D2D advertised featuers?

My thoughts exactly, iDatalink.

All depends on your budget, the amount of time & labor you have to spend and the features you want & need.

If time and labor is no object and you want to spend as little as possible, buy a quality remote start w/keyless system for $50, a "key in the box" bypass for $15 and six relays for another $15.

Here is the combo I used on a 2004 Jeep Grand Cherokee Sport with factory alarm.

Ultra Start U1272-XR Pro remote start and the iDatalink ADS ALSL CH bypass module.  Took about 3 hours to install.

If you want to leave the factory remotes at home and just use the remote starters FOBs, you will need a remote start with keyless entry.  On the Jeep, if you want to control the door locks you have to wire into both front doors and use 4 relays or use a fully featured bypass.  If you have the factory alarm, the iDatlink moule will handle that, too.   You need a immobilizer bypass anyway so you can save some time by spending some extra cash for the bypass.

The Ultra Start 1272 is availble online for $55.  Here is a link to the Ultra Start web site for more info and install guide download :  https://www.ultrastarters.com/products_pro.html

The iDatalink ADS ALSL CH could be a problem finding.  There are other iDatalink modules you could use but they require a special cable to flash with the correct firmware.  There are online sellers that will do this for you. Online price is about $65.  Here is a link to iDatalink :  https://www.idatalink.com/support/helpdesk 

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Soldering is fun!

My budget is ~$200-250 total.

If I get the iDatalink bypass, are you saying I can avoid tapping in the doors to get the remote fob to work?

It appears there are many units to select from in that ultrastart website. Is there one you would recommend for the easiest install in my price range that can use one remote for doors and remote start?

I don't need an alarm feature, I think she'd actually come out ahead if someone stole this thing ;)

Forgot to add, I don't mind spending a whole day installing it, but was very interested in a simple install..   will the autostart units use the rs232 or datalink port to save splicing time?

And lastly, to spam my thread completely ;)....

I've been researching and found that Jeeps have complicated ways to make the parking lights confirm the autostart (running extra relays and such?).

Will the iDatalink bypass module I listed above take care of that for me?

After a proper install, the car will still work normally.  The original factory remote FOBs are still functional.  The new remote start  FOBs will have the Lock / Unlock functions plus the remote start.  Other functions like panic, car finder, rear defrost and window rollup are optional depending on the remote start brand and extra wiring / modules purchased.

The Ultra Start U1272-XR Pro is a reliable, one way unit that has all the features you want.  It comes with two small, durable remotes that provide good range.  Download the install guide and check it out.  It is pretty straight forward, easy to program and has enough options to handle most requirements.

iDatalink lists many modules for your car.  Some are transponder bypass only, like the ADS TB.  There are several full featured modules.  The Solo series ADS ALSL CH comes pre loaded with the correct firmware for your car.  The Multi series modules come with no firmware and must be flashed with a special USB cable prior to use.  The wiring is similar between the full featured modules.  With the iDatalink module the door locks are handled with a single wire connection from the module to the ignition harness in the steering column area.  This is the same area where you will be making the main remote start ignition wire connections.  The only extra item needed is a relay and 1.3k resistor for the Parking Lights.

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Soldering is fun!

Just hook up tach with the Ultra Start and Enjoy...! Do the Parking Lights need a resistor...? I know it's common...Just that the notes say yellow at the switch(-)...? No mention of isolation or resistor... Most,if not all current Ultra Starts have a jumper for - or + parking lights on the top of the brain,underneath a removable door...We have been installing a ton of the Ultra 1172's and the Avital 4113's...Both solid units...Although the range on the Ultra is better...Easy way to test if your vehicle has factory security is to roll down the window...Lock the door with the switch...Shut door...Wait 60 seconds...Reach inside of opened window and unlock the door...Open the door...Is the car honking at you...? If the vehicle does have factory security, the one upgrade you would get by adding a combo unit is a shock sensor(impact sensor)...With most factory alarms, you can still break the window and reach in and take what you want...BTW... the 2-way L.E.D. unit from Ultra is pretty solid too...!

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M.E.C.P & First-Class
Go slow and drink lots of water...Procrastinators' Unite...Tomorrow!

AS tommy said, hook up the Tach if you go with the Ultra Start unit.  The Tach signal supplied by the iDatalink bypass module is very convenient and the Ultra Start easliy "Learns" it. 

Here is the Parking Light info from Bulldog Security : 

PARKING LIGHTS ( - )         YELLOW (-)          See NOTE *2               @ HEADLIGHT SWITCH, See DIAGRAM
NOTE *2 the YELLOW Parking light wire will require a (-) Negative thru a 1300 Ohm resistor and a
extra relay part #775, to connect, See DIAGRAM 

https://www.bulldogsecurity.com/diagrams/extrainfo/diagrams/14301_GRAND-CHEROKEE_GRAND%20CHEROKEE%20PARKING%20LIGHT%20DIAGRAM.pdf

This info from AudioVox :
Parking Lights  YELLOW  (-)  1K OHM RESISTOR AT THE STEERING COLUM HARNESS

For the 2004 Jeep Grand Cherokee, AudioVox recommends relay isloation on the Parking Light wire and a 1.3k ohm resistor.

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Soldering is fun!

Hi everybody,

I was just doing my research on a Grand Jeep cherokee 2001 my next project. I ordered the ultra start 1272 pro with the ADS DL idatalink . Used these 2 before have no complaints, great bypass module. Now my question is u need one relay for the parking lights and this car has 2 acc we need one there too right?

There are only 4 ignition wires needed for this car.  Depending on which wire guide you use,
Bulldog or AudioVox, there is one ignition, one starter and two accessories or two ignitions,
one starter and one accessory.  The selectable 5th relay on the U1272 can be programmed to
support either configuration.  On the 2004 Grand Cherokee I did, both the RED / Black and the
BLACK/ Orange wires tested as accessory circuits.  Supposedly the 1999-2004 models are the same.

So only one extra relay and resistor is required for the Parking Lights.  There is a way to
use the remote starters (-) Parking Light output and go right to the parking light relay. 

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Soldering is fun!

Hey kreg...Not arguing...Just curious as to why your info is different then mine...I just searched Audiovox and Code(i know they are the same...) and neither are giving me the resistor and relay isolation...? Are you using the same site...? I see it suggests that for a 2004 Grand Cherokee...Not on a 2000 though...Maybe i missed something...But isnt the poster vehicle a 2000...? On another note...Make sure to power up both accessories to avoid getting the ABS and Air-Bag light...Just did a 2000 today...I didnt use a resistor or a relay... https://techservices.audiovox.com/TechnicalIndex.aspx

Parking Lights

YELLOW

(-)

AT VEHICLE LIGHT SWITCH...From Audiovox tech services and Code tech services...

kreg357 wrote:

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AS tommy said, hook up the Tach if you go with the Ultra Start unit.  The Tach signal supplied by the iDatalink bypass module is very convenient and the Ultra Start easliy "Learns" it. 

Here is the Parking Light info from Bulldog Security : 

PARKING LIGHTS ( - )         YELLOW (-)          See NOTE *2               @ HEADLIGHT SWITCH, See DIAGRAM
NOTE *2 the YELLOW Parking light wire will require a (-) Negative thru a 1300 Ohm resistor and a
extra relay part #775, to connect, See DIAGRAM 

https://www.bulldogsecurity.com/diagrams/extrainfo/diagrams/14301_GRAND-CHEROKEE_GRAND%20CHEROKEE%20PARKING%20LIGHT%20DIAGRAM.pdf

This info from AudioVox :
Parking Lights  YELLOW  (-)  1K OHM RESISTOR AT THE STEERING COLUM HARNESS

For the 2004 Jeep Grand Cherokee, AudioVox recommends relay isloation on the Parking Light wire and a 1.3k ohm resistor.

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M.E.C.P & First-Class
Go slow and drink lots of water...Procrastinators' Unite...Tomorrow!

Hey tommy..., looks like you are correct.  AudioVox shows Yellow (-) with no resistor / isolation for the
2000 Jeep Grand Cherokee.  They don't make any reference to the resistor until 2002.  If it worked for you
with a straight (-) on a 2000, that is the proof.  I don't do many Jeeps and the closest one was the 2004 I
did a while ago.  If memory serves me, I did it with relay isolation and a 915 ohm resistor.

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Soldering is fun!

Sounds good...Was curious as to the discrepancies...Problem solved...Cheers...! BTW...I see you are involved in alot of Ultra Start posts... Have you used the evo-chrt1-2 with the Atom antenna/remotes yet?

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M.E.C.P & First-Class
Go slow and drink lots of water...Procrastinators' Unite...Tomorrow!

So for the 2001 i shouldnt use the resistor ?