pkall won’t bypass on first crank

Printed From: the12volt.com
Forum Name: Car Security and Convenience
Forum Discription: Car Alarms, Keyless Entries, Remote Starters, Immobilizer Bypasses, Sensors, Door Locks, Window Modules, Heated Mirrors, Heated Seats, etc.
URL: https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp?tid=124918
Printed Date: May 15, 2024 at 4:23 PM

Topic: pkall won’t bypass on first crank

Posted By: da/sport
Subject: pkall won’t bypass on first crank
Date Posted: December 08, 2010 at 10:39 PM

I installed a Prostart 3 in 1 on my 02 F150 auto using a PKALL bypass. Without bypass installed, using key in ign cyl only, remote start works every time on first start. Install the bypass module and upon the first start try, the modules led does not light and engine cranks but will not start. The remote starter tries a second time, this time the modules led lites and the vehicle starts. I'm using the D2D cable as well as blue/white to "-while running status" and pink to "ign".

When I try to program the module, upon pressing program button, I install connector 1 and 2 quickly before the led lite comes on. It then lites solid. I follow the rest of keying programming only to find the led stays solid, not flashing 10 times as the instructions state it should to complete the programming. I've repeated this programming many times using their install guide to no success.

Have I done something wrong? Would this PKALL possibly need a firmware update or maybe even an older firmware install? I purchased the PKALL on Nov 30/10. Maybe it's too new for this old truck?

Thanks for any replies.

Replies:

Posted By: kreg357
Date Posted: December 09, 2010 at 4:33 AM

The PKALL firmware version shouldn't matter.

Double check your (-) Ground Out When Running connection and the ProStart programming to verify it's still set at the default bypass type - DE ( Mode 4 Functions 3 & 4 )I. Or you could go W2W and connect directly to +12v and ground.

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Soldering is fun!

Posted By: da/sport
Date Posted: December 09, 2010 at 6:22 AM

Thanks for tips. I have reset the bypass default option twice already. My install guide says M4 F3&4 are "pager disabled" and "enabled by remote" using the default setting. M4 F5&6 are "option 2- Xpresskit" and "option 2- Two Way communication (for Xpresskit bypass ONLY)". I assume M4-F5&6 are the ones you want and I'll check them again.

I had thought of using the W2W before but wasn't sure if I should try returning the module first ,if the seller would exchange, and didn't want to cut the harness. I'll check the Mode settings again and then try the W2W if needed.

Posted By: kreg357
Date Posted: December 09, 2010 at 7:18 AM

Yes, M4-F5&6 for the bypass type and mode. Sorry, I must have an older guide. That D2D power harness is pretty common, you might have something laying around...

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Soldering is fun!

Posted By: kgerry
Date Posted: December 09, 2010 at 9:15 AM

i would just wire it W2W... D2D saves you what? 2 wires?

also, i thought i read that it D2D it locks out analogue inputs....

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Kevin Gerry
Certified Electronics Technician
MECP First Class Installer

Owner/Installer
Classic Car Audio
since 1979

Posted By: buddholly
Date Posted: December 10, 2010 at 4:17 PM

Try switching around your TX and RX wires on the PKALL and programming the box that way. Are you sure they are two individual keys and not just a copy of the orignals?