2011 hyundai sonata 2.0t

hey guys just wanted to tknow the wiring diagram for the 2011 hyundai sonata 2.0t i'm going to install remote start/security in this car and what the best bypass to use with this car for remote start since it has a push button start system thanks again

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roberto gonzalez

I believe the 2.0T is the same as any with PTS.  Try the iDatalink ADS-AL CA module
with ADS-AL(DL)-HK2 firmware.  https://www.idatalink.com/support/helpdesk

The iDatalink install guide gives you most of the wiring.

Here is a link to some other posts on the 2011 Sonata.
https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp~TID~123005

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Soldering is fun!

thanks for the fast reply now this module will make it so i can remote start it without having the smart key inside thanks again and i will give it a try

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roberto gonzalez

hey kreg will this bypass module also work on the new 2011 kia optima sx since the 2011 hyundai sonata 2.0t is the sister

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roberto gonzalez

witch alarm/remote start system will work with the idatalink ads-al ca module?? also in order to use this module the alarm system must have a data port right

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roberto gonzalez

The iDatalink bypass will allow the car to start without the FOB inside the car.

The iDatalink bypass module will work with any remote start system if wired up in W2W mode.  ( I don't use D2D mode yet...)

The iDatalink WEB site does not list the KIA Optima yet but it might if they are twins.  Give their Tech Support a call.

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Soldering is fun!

Thanks for the reply and also what's does w2w and f2f means and by using this module u don't have to connect the remote start wires coming from the alarm brain right because that module is using the proper codes to tell the evidence to start the car correct.it also sends a signal for the brake lights correct thanks for the info again your very helpful sorry I'm using my phone typo d2d

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roberto gonzalez

Go to the iDatalink WEB site and look up the car.  https://www.idatalink.com/helpdesk/  Download the ADS-AL CA install guide for the ADS-AL(DL)-HK2 firmware.  The correct install is Type 4 which is detailed on Pages 13-15.  It even shows the connections from the generic remote starter that need to connected.  Very detailed and very complete.

In D2D mode, a harness is connected between the iDatalink module and the remote starter that handles the communication between the modules.  This communication can be either one way ( remote start --> to bypass only, all the dashed lines ) or two way ( all the dashed and Red lines ), depending on the type of remote starter used.  Some brands aren't capable of any D2D communications, some can do 1 way while others can do 2 way.  The are 3 different D2D communication protocols out there, DBI, Fortin and iDatalink.  It gets complicated fast.

Because of some issues with D2D, I still wire them up in W2W mode, making all the connections between the modules manually.  It takes time and you must keep things neat but it always works.  Here is a Ultra Start U1272 with an iDatalink ADS DL in W2W mode for a recent Chevy Colorado install.

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Soldering is fun!

Wow very detailed thanks and 1 more question and I promise to leave u alone lol what's w2w and what alarm/remote start u recommend that works with the idatalink module and will make my install as easiest as possible thanks again

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roberto gonzalez

D2D is where the remote starter and the bypass module communicate thru a special harness that connects them.  See paragraph 2 in my last post.  D2D can make the install faster because of the reduction of wire connections but can be a headache if you run into strange problems.

W2W is where the remote starter signals are individual wire connections to the bypass module ( things like door lock, trunk release, disarm, etc )  and the bypass siganals are also individual wires going to the remote start ( things like door status, tach, etc ).  See paragragh 3 and picture from last post.

As for a recommendation, thats a tough question.  Remote Start only or Remote Start and Keyless Entry or Remote Start / Keyless Entry and Alarm?

How much FOB range?  1,000 feet, 3,000 feet, 1 mile?

One way remote, two way remote, LCD display, color?

 Might be a good idea to go to several shops and actually look at the different brands and transmitter styles.  Ask questions, listen and get their input and prices.  Remember that DIYer's don't get manufacturer tech support or a warranty.  A Push to Start car probably isn't considered a entry level project.

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Soldering is fun!

cool i have installed remote start and alarm system before but i used the old school 555u module i'm thinking of trying out this idatalink for the first time just wanted as much info i can get before the first attemp so let me get this straight all the wires from the remote start system wires straight to the idatalink wires and the regular 12+ and ground like always and my canl and canh wires will be hooked up to the cars brain reason i ask beacuse i was looking at the install guide and it said use one of the 2 methods to my under standing is using the data wire and hard wiring it?? right

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roberto gonzalez

The two wiring methods are basically "with iDatalink" ( aka D2D ) and "without iDatalink" ( aka W2W ).  One way iDatalink would eliminate the need of hardwiring all the black dashed lines.  Two way iDatalink would also eliminate the need of hardwiring the Red lines.   The brand and model of remote starter would be the determining factor if you could use iDatalink mode and whether it would be one way or two way. 

If you were to install in the W2W method, all wire connections would be made ( solid, dashed & Red ).   As I said, I still use the W2W method and mate the remote start & bypass "on the bench" prior to install.  Takes a little longer and uses a lot of solder and heat shrink tube but always works.  While the unit in the picture is just a remote start ( no alarm ) and fairly basic, at the bottom you can see the door lock / unlock and +12v, ground and (-) Status wires connecting between the modules.

With your install, there would be 5 wires going from the bypass to the car and 5 wires from the remote starter going to the car ( including chassis ground and horn ).  Everything else goes between the modules.  I believe all Sonatas come with a factory alarm.  So you can use the cars hood status for the remote starters Hood pin input.  The cars' alarm won't trigger with a remote start so no need to set "unlock before start and re-lock after start" option to turn off the alarm. 

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Soldering is fun!