Print Page | Close Window

2004 4runner remote starter

Printed From: the12volt.com
Forum Name: Car Security and Convenience
Forum Discription: Car Alarms, Keyless Entries, Remote Starters, Immobilizer Bypasses, Sensors, Door Locks, Window Modules, Heated Mirrors, Heated Seats, etc.
URL: https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp?tid=125079
Printed Date: May 31, 2024 at 6:36 PM


Topic: 2004 4runner remote starter

Posted By: p4runner
Subject: 2004 4runner remote starter
Date Posted: December 16, 2010 at 1:30 PM

Hi All,  Just completed installing a (somewhat older) Design Tech Ready Remote (23927) starter I purchased a while back but never used in our 2004 4Runner using a Directed 1100X bypass module.  The starter initializes fine and attempts to start the car, and the 1100X seemed to learn the code and gives me the green led to confirm (I used the Mode 2 instructions)  The car will start with the remote but turns off after a second or two and I have a feeling it's the 1100X causing the issue but could use some input.

As a test, I try to remote start with the key just inserted in the ignition, and also with it turned one click to the ACC position (both turn off the flashing immobilizer light), and the same thing happens - it cranks and runs for a few seconds then stops.  Does this rule out the 1100X bypass being the cause?  I assume the key would satisfy the immobilizer, but am not positive...

While the unit is trying to start remotely (it does 3 attempts then stops), I check and have voltage at IGN 1, IGN 2, and ACC, so the remote isn't depowering anything needed.  The 1100X also turns off the immobilizer light when attempting to remote start, but I'm not sure that means it's satisfied the immobilizer?

Finally, when I start the car with the key, then press the remote starter to take over, I'm able to remove the key and the car still runs until I press the remote to turn it off as it's supposed to.  Not sure if this indicates that the 1100X is working properly?

Any and all input would be welcome as both sides of the dash are apart, this is day 2, and it's really cold outside.  Be great to get this running and back together.  Thanks in advance for any assistance.

Dave




Replies:

Posted By: p4runner
Date Posted: December 16, 2010 at 5:37 PM

Just came in from another round of testing, took the 1100x out of the circuit, reconnected the IMI wire, put the key in the ignition and tried a remote start.  Kicked right over and kept running, so the 1100x seems to be the problem.

Has anyone ever used one of these successfully in Mode 2?





Posted By: kreg357
Date Posted: December 16, 2010 at 6:27 PM
The 1100XW is actually a re-badged iDatalink module and usually very reliable.  Double check your wiring connections.  Perform a factory reset on the module.  Select and program the Installation Mode ( Two Blinlks ).  Then do the Mode 2 programming to your car.

-------------
Soldering is fun!




Posted By: p4runner
Date Posted: December 16, 2010 at 6:46 PM

Thanks for the reply.  I have a feeling this is an older bypass unit also as it just says 1100X (no W) and the date on the install guide is 2006.  Don't know if that matters or not?

Just came in from another round, double checked the wiring and tried the factory reset numerous times.  Even programmed it to the one blink mode just to check, apparent that's not correct as the starter just cranked.  Went back to 2 flash, but no luck, engine stopped after a few seconds.  It seems to learn fine each time it's reset, goes from red to green when the car is first started with the key.

When the starter first clicks on, the 1100x repeatedly flashes twice green.  Instructions just say "the led will flash green when the remote starter is engaged", but it's not any clearer than that.  Can I assume that's correct?  I don't see any red.

One other Q, on the wiring diagram, it shows the red 12v from the 1100x going to the remote starter.  I'm assuming that's the constant 12v supply to the starter and not a switched 12v from the ignition?  That's the only connection I was unsure of. 

I'm open any more suggestions, I'll try anything at this point.





Posted By: p4runner
Date Posted: December 16, 2010 at 6:52 PM

Here's a link to the install instructions, it's Mode 2 and there's a schematic on the 3rd page down:

https://www.directeddealers.com/manuals/ig/accessories/N1100X_07-06print.pdf





Posted By: kreg357
Date Posted: December 16, 2010 at 7:29 PM

Yes, the Red wire on the 4 Pin connector goes to +12v constant.  The Ground When Running goes to the Ready Remotes' (-) Status Output ( possibly WHITE/ Black ? )  wire.

It sounds like it programmed OK.  It's not interferring with the normal key start & run.  Idle modes works OK.  Weird.

Got another module to try? 



-------------
Soldering is fun!




Posted By: p4runner
Date Posted: December 16, 2010 at 8:48 PM

Unfortunately I don't.  The remote starter is basically the same as one I put in our Corolla a while back, so I could swap that if needed.  But there's no bypass in that car (which I'm thankful for now), so nothing else in the way of that to try. 

I connected the blue/white ground when running on the 1100x to the WHITE/ black on the Ready Remote, Ignition 3/VATS Control.  Step 16 in the installation instructions below.  Seems correct as I think that's what turns the bypass on when the remote is activated?

https://www.readyremote.com/pdf/manuals/23927.pdf





Posted By: p4runner
Date Posted: December 16, 2010 at 11:25 PM

Been doing a lot of reading, any chance it could be a key sense problem?  If I insert a blank into the ignition and try the remote, will that be a adequate test of that system to rule it out?





Posted By: kreg357
Date Posted: December 17, 2010 at 5:31 AM

The Ready Remote WHITE/ Black wire is the correct one.  You could put a meter on it to ensure it stays (-) all during the entire remote start attempt.

It's worth a try but usually keysense on a Toyota is only used to disarm the factory alarm system.



-------------
Soldering is fun!




Posted By: p4runner
Date Posted: December 17, 2010 at 9:23 AM

Thanks, I think you're correct on the keysense.  After I posted, I remembered one of my first tests when the engine kept stopping was to put the ignition key in and try the remote that way, it didn't work, so I think keysense isn't the problem. 

The only other thing I can think of is when I took the passenger side dash apart initially, everything was where the diagrams indicated except for the Theft Deterrent ECU and the Transponder Key Computer.  Looked for a while but couldn't locate them, so I found a manual on line for a 2003 and located and used IMI and IMO at the ECM on connector E7 pins 27 and 26 respectively.  Color code is right, and both the schematic and the ECM connector pinout show the same, so I think it's correct.

I'm going to give it the once over again today as it's a little warmer out, then put it all back together if I can't find anything.  I'm feeling like it's most likely a bad 1100x module at this point.  Any suggestions to equivalent units I could order instead that don't require a dedicated ignition key as it would be great to use the wiring as is and not have to take both sides of the dash apart again when the new module comes?

Thanks again for all the help.





Posted By: p4runner
Date Posted: December 17, 2010 at 3:49 PM

Finally got it squared away, kind of a stupid oversight/interpretation on my part.  Since I tapped into the IMI wire at the ECM and not the Transponder Key Computer, I should have realized that "connector side" and "car side" would change in relation to the diagram and the connector.  Duh.  Once I swapped them out, I had to reset the 1100x twice, and it worked on the second go round.  Thanks again for your assistance.

Having one more issue I need to square away, and I think it's due to a car feature and not the remote starter.  When I turn the car off remotely, or it runs out of time after 10 min's remotely started, the dash lights and some accessories stay powered up until the drivers door is opened.  Same thing happens when I just put the key in the ignition, turn it to ON then back off and take it out.  There's no power coming from the remote on any wires when this happens.  I believe Toyota called this the retained power feature, or something similar?  Any ideas on how to deal with this?  Just concerned if the car gets remote started accidentally, these features will stay on and eventually drain the battery...  Just when I thought I was done!





Posted By: p4runner
Date Posted: December 17, 2010 at 4:57 PM
Got that last issue sorted out, all good to go now, thanks again!





Print Page | Close Window