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code alarm trunk trigger

Printed From: the12volt.com
Forum Name: Car Security and Convenience
Forum Discription: Car Alarms, Keyless Entries, Remote Starters, Immobilizer Bypasses, Sensors, Door Locks, Window Modules, Heated Mirrors, Heated Seats, etc.
URL: https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp?tid=125090
Printed Date: July 09, 2025 at 7:27 PM


Topic: code alarm trunk trigger

Posted By: denaliano
Subject: code alarm trunk trigger
Date Posted: December 17, 2010 at 8:20 AM

When I probe the trunk release trigger wire with my MM, it jumps to +3.5v when the  the trunk button on the fob is depressed. 

I understand this is supposed to go to ground when the trunk button is pressed.   

What gives?   I can't get this to trigger my hatch release on my 1994 K1500 Blazer.

My truck needs +12 to pop the hatch, so I wired in a relay as follows -

85, 87 - +12 Constant

86 - Trigger from Code Alarm Brain

30 - To the hatch release switch

But, I get nothing.   Something seems to be up with that trigger wire, no?  




Replies:

Posted By: denaliano
Date Posted: December 17, 2010 at 9:59 AM

Ok, a little further investigation.  While connected on my bench - the trigger wire on the alarm shows +12v when the button on the fob isn't depressed, when I depress it, it drops to 8.5v

Apparently this isn't enough to trip my relay?





Posted By: denaliano
Date Posted: December 17, 2010 at 10:02 AM
nm.. shows full ground at rest, and 3.5V+ when fob is depressed still, had the probes reverse.  :banghead:




Posted By: tedmond
Date Posted: December 17, 2010 at 12:15 PM
you might have a damaged output. should be a 12v output at least 250ma

-------------
Ted
2nd Year Tier 1 Medical School
Still installing as a hobby...pays for groceries
Compustar Expert




Posted By: denaliano
Date Posted: December 17, 2010 at 7:56 PM

More info -  this is an OLD SCHOOL but NIB F55 Code Alarm.  I figure for a 1994 truck, it's more than enough.

Anyway, the unit has fuses as follows... the grayed out areas are missing fuse connections..  like, there's nothing on the PCB to insert a fuse into.  Just blank. 

[IMG]https://i55.tinypic.com/29crkg0.jpg[/IMG]

I even tried jumping the solder connections on  the "blank" pcb for (+) and (-) trigger but the output never changed.

Does this mean my brain isn't even programmed for  trunk output?





Posted By: denaliano
Date Posted: December 17, 2010 at 7:56 PM
posted_image




Posted By: tommy...
Date Posted: December 17, 2010 at 8:05 PM
Convert a Negative Output to a Positive Output
If you have a switch or an alarm or keyless entry that has a negative output that you wish to use to switch a device that requires 12V+ such as a horn, dome light, parking lights, head lights, hatch release, etc., wire a relay as shown below to convert the negative output (trigger) to a positive output.
posted_image

Here's the same configuration showing a negative output from an alarm or remote keyless entry used to activate a trunk release solenoid that requires 12V+ to release the trunk.
posted_image

Does the unit have another Aux. output...If so...Try using that one and see what happens...!? You're sure you have the correct rear hatch release wire...? I just perused the install guide and it looks like that is the only output...If you are certain you have the correct wire for the rear hatch...You could apply 12v to the rear hatch release wire and see if it pop's...This wire should show 12v when button is pressed...!

Trnk Release BROWN (+) RELEASE SWITCH IN DASH



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M.E.C.P & First-Class
Go slow and drink lots of water...Procrastinators' Unite...Tomorrow!




Posted By: denaliano
Date Posted: December 18, 2010 at 7:33 AM

Yes, i've wired my relay exactly like that.  Confirmed that it works by attaching 85 directly to ground.  Hatch pops.  However when I connect wire 16 shown here, it does nothing. 

https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/file.asp?ID=664

posted_image






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