automatic daily remote starter

I am in need of a very basic remote starter (no alarm) for the sole purpose of automatically starting a car every day/few days for a set amount of time so that the battery does not die (this car is a rarely used beater).  Any recommendations for a unit with this feature?

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But I would question why it it flattening after a few days (disconnect the battery instead!).

Or I'd suggest a solar panel - probably 20W with a regulator.

Either disconnect the battery/remove the battery or not/buy a power pack. All cheaper and simpler.

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

x2!
Prevention - it's better than waste.

I suspect an old battery is being used. A hill-start or new battery is probably cheaper than a solar panel, though a 20W solar may work for a while...

You can find those battery disconnects almost anywhere...I.E. harbor freight...Although a 8,10,12,or 13mm wrench is probably the cheapest option...Is the car close to you...? If so,any remote start and an occasional press will work...! ...Been awhile since i've even looked into that feature...Will see if i can find something reasonable...But seriously...If rarely driven...Battery disconnect is the way to go...Won't have to remember if you started it or not,if there is enough gas,etc...Or maybe a combination of the two...?

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M.E.C.P & First-Class
Go slow and drink lots of water...Procrastinators' Unite...Tomorrow!

thanks.  it isnt my car - it is my brothers who works from home and rarely needs the car.

it is a new battery - which he got after lots of dead cycles that were coming after only a fews days of non-use.  WHen it kept happeneig with this new battery - I got my good multimeter and found out that the draw on the battery was like ten times higher (300 mA or something) than it was supposed to be (i researched Honda Accord 1992 factory current draw and found out something like 20 or 30 mA).  Anyway - I found that it was and old CD changer drawing all that extra current - since I was able to get it down to about 35mA when I disconected it.  This was still slightly higher than factory specs - but by less than one magnitude instead of the tenfold magnitude that it had ben.

So - I thought I fixed the parasitic draw problem - but it apparently still only lasts a few days without starting. 

The best solution is isolation - preferably of the battery -ve terminal to the rest of the vehicle.

BUT, it may be possible & easy to remove a fuse or flink (fuselink) for the offending drain.


From a poor resolution diagram that I found:

I think the '92 Accord has a master flink or fuse from the battery (UVH fusebox? fuse #15 or #16?). That should isolate all but the starter motor.

The problem could be leaky alternator diodes. The alternator might also connect (to the battery) via the above fuse/flink, but may also use fuse #14.    



FYI - for my rarely used older vehicles that had round battery terminals, I used to leave the -ve terminal loose enough to remove, but tight enough to make contact.
That can be hazardous if sparks occur - especially if a flat or high-charging battery (hydrogen explosion) - but also if excess heat builds up.
But "terminal" (no pun) failures are usually a spark and then no connection, hence terminal (pun!). Remake the connection with a twist and push-down. (That's assuming relatively clean with little oxide/corrosion.


If the battery is charged & open circuit and still discharges, then it is faulty, else has conducting contamination between its terminals.
(Open circuit means with either terminal disconnected. But that means (at least) the -ve terminal - the rule is that the ground/chassis is ALWAYS disconnected if working with +12V.)


I'll omit detailed battery condition ramblings unless requested.