Printer Friendly Forum Posts - Viper 5901, ’06 Dodge Ram

A couple of choices. You could go with a DEI XK09 flashed with the 9.Chrysler firmware. You would need
to flash the correct firmware with the XKLoader cable. You could even go D2D with the Viper remote
start unit. Here is a link to the XK09 info : https://www.xpresskit.com/product.aspx?productid=447
Download the 9.Chrysler install guide. No extra parts required.

The other posibility is the iDatalink bypass module like the ADS-ALSL CH. It comes pre-flashed with the
correct firmware. Here is a link to their WEB site for more info : https://www.idatalink.com/support/helpdesk
I would install with the W2W method and you will need a couple of inline fuse holders with 5A fuses
and a 1N4001 diode, following the CH5 Type 1 guide. The wiring looks complicated but is very straight
forward and an easy install.

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Soldering is fun!

I dont want to buy more 100$ stuff, I got the gift and i want one of the other relay hookups around 50$ or less. Can you help me out? Why is there NOOO install guides and help on this?

Those trucks are a dime a dozen if you coudln't find wiring info you were just being lazy honestly....
if you want to be cheap then do it the old fashioned way by giving up a key, and using relays and resistors for a bypass.
https://documents.audiovox.com/701131.pdf
https://documents.audiovox.com/700665.pdf
     Battery          LT.BLU/RED (2AMP)          (+)          IGNITION HARNESS
     Ignition 1          PINK/WHT          (+)          IGNITION HARNESS
     Ignition 2          PINK/GREEN          (+)          IGNITION SWITCH HARNESS
     Accessory 1          VIOLET/BROWN          (-)          SAME AS SECOND STARTER WIRE
     Accessory 2          PINK / YELLOW          (+)          MAY BE NO SECOND ACCESSORY
     Starter 1          DK. GREEN/ YELLOW          (+)          IGNITION HARNESS
     Starter 2          VIOLET/BRN          (-)          IGNITION HARNESS
     Anti-Theft Type          DAIMLER SENTRY KEY® VEHICLE IMMOBILIZER
     Anti-Theft Descript          THE KEY SENDS AN RF SIGNAL TO THE BCM MODULE THROUGH AN ANTENNA LOCATED AROUND THE IGNITION CYLINDER
     Key Sense          VIOLET/BROWN          (-)          IGNITION SWITCH HARNESS
     Tachometer          TAN/RED, OR INJECTOR          (AC)          AT IGNITION COIL
     Speed Sense          GREEN/ YELLOW          (AC)          PCM. IN A BLACK PLUG
     Parking Lights          WHITE/ GREEN          (-)          AT VEHICLE LIGHT SWITCH
     Brake Lights          WHITE/ TAN          (+)          AT SWITCH ABOVE BRAKE PEDAL
     Reverse Lights          WHITE/ LT. GREEN          (+)          IN HARNESS, TOP OF DRIVER FENDER
     Horn          GREEN/ VIOLET          (-)          STEERING COLUMN HARNESS
     Databus          WHITE/ ORANGE          (DATA)          IN HARNESS AT STEERING COLUMN

     Door Lock Circuit          ONE WIRE NEGATIVE SYSTEM          (-)          DRIVERS KICK
     Databus Wire          WHITE/ BLUE
     Power Unlock          VIOLET/GREEN          (-)          WITHOUT FACTORY SECURITY, DRIVERS KICK, 330 OHMS THRU A RELAY.
     PowerLock          VIOLET/GREEN          (-)          WITHOUT FACTORY SECURITY, DRIVERS KICK, 820 OHMS THRU A RELAY.

All Door Trigger          MUST USE LATCH WIRES          (-)          BE SURE TO USE TWO DIODES TO ISOLATE
     Domelight Super          YELLOW/BLUE          (+)          DRIVERS A PILLAR
     LF Latch          VIOLET          (-)          IN HARNESS IN DRIVERS KICKPANEL
     RF Latch          VIOLET/WHITE          (-)          IN HARNESS IN PASSENGER KICKPANEL
     LR Latch          VIOLET/ORANGE          (-)          DRIVERS KICK
     RR Latch          VIOLET / YELLOW          (-)          PASSENGER KICK
     Hood Trigger          VIOLET/LIGHT BLUE          (-)          AT VEHICLE HOOD PIN SWITCH
     Alarm Disarm          FACTORY REMOTE ONLY
     Alarm Arm          FACTORY REMOTE ONLY

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A DMM is a beautiful thing.

MECP Advanced Installer Certified.

DEI, the company that manufactures the Viper, preferes to have only authorived dealers / installers install their products. They make it very hard for DIYers to obtain installation guides or tech support. While the Viper is a top shelf product, a remote start / alarm novice will have a bit of difficulty installing it. There is an install guide in the Downloads section of this site. It might be slightly out of date ( H1 harness ) but will provide most of the info you need but it is written for the experienced DEI installer.

The vehicle you want to install it in has a special ignition circuit, a transponder immobilizer system, one wire door locks and a MUX style Parking Light system. The use of a full featured bypass module like the ones mentioned above will save a lot of time and make the install easy. They are available for less than $80.

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Soldering is fun!

i think he'd have more fun doing it the old school way with no bypass....

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A DMM is a beautiful thing.

MECP Advanced Installer Certified.

Can someone link me to the exact one I should purchase?

Other then the one mentioned above?

If I order this, is this all I will need?

https://www.savinglots.com/lotprod.asp?item=DLPKCHG2

Or do I need that and this:

https://cgi./VIPER-CAR-ALARM-REMOTE-START-TRANSPONDER-BYPASS-MODULE-/110628259501?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item19c1f546ad

Yes Kreg, I fully understand. Flame job.

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

Ok i found a modual that will fix the key and the immobilizer that messes things up on ebay for like 12$.

As far as hooking it up, I am buying the relays and resistors, why the love buy some retarded 80$ piece of doodie, when I can wire it all up. I know how to do this, question is do I have the right supply list?

2x 12VDC 30/40 AMP Relays
150 OHM, 560 OHM, 330 OHM, 820 OHM Resistors

What else do I need?

Here is a diagram for the Starter MUX circuit :
https://www.bulldogsecurity.com/diagrams/extrainfo/diagrams/14301_RAM-FULL-SIZE-PICKUP_DODGE%20RAM%20STARTER%20and%20ACCESSORY%202%20DIAGRAM.pdf

Here is a diagram fo the Parking Light circuit :
https://www.bulldogsecurity.com/diagrams/extrainfo/diagrams/153_RAM-FULL-SIZE-PICKUP_CHRYSLER%20PARKING%20LIGHT%20DIAGRAM.pdf

Here is a diagram for the lock circuits : ( top diagram for a remote starter with (-) lock outputs )
https://www.bulldogsecurity.com/diagrams/extrainfo/diagrams/1212_RAM-FULL-SIZE-PICKUP_DODGE%20RAM%2004-05%201%20WIRE%20JBS%20UNITS.pdf

Here is a diagram for the Door Triggers : ( for the alarm trgger input and Viper programming )
https://www.bulldogsecurity.com/diagrams/extrainfo/diagrams/14301_RAM-FULL-SIZE-PICKUP_(-)%20NEGATIVE%20DOOR%20PIN%20ISOLATION%20CIRCUIT.pdf

Looks like five 30/40 Amp SPDT relays with sockets, four 1N4001 diodes, one 180 ohm, one 330 ohm, one 610 ohm, one 820 ohm and one 1130 ohm resistors.

Universal "key in box box" bypass - $12, five relays - $15, four diodes - $2, 100 pack resistor assortment - $5, one working valet key $12,
one extra roll Scotch Super 33+ tape - $5, one extra tube 60/40 solder - $4, three extra hours labor/troubleshooting - priceless. posted_image

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Soldering is fun!

Three extra hours?
And of course no mistakes will be made in wiring up 5 relays, diodes resistors etc.
A piece of advice would also be to not use the tiny resistors that come with the kits, I've had them break up when in-line soldered, use the next up wattage.

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

Doesnt seem to hard, I am not a guy to understand these diagrams and wire layouts the best but I am thinkning I understand it all and where all the wires go. I am not going to fully do this unless I feel assured myself that I can do this.

I ran by radioshack to pick up supplies, to find only 1 relay in stock and it was $7!!!. I think I found 5 relays on ebay already wired with leads for like $12 shipped.

Thanks and I will post back if I need more help.

Help! If I get this, will this solve all the relay and reisistor and diode mess?

https://#/NEW-XPRESSKIT-PKUMUX-CHRYSLER-GEN-2-KEY-BYPASS-MODULE-/350402732337?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item5195a16131

Im so confused, does this module make it so I dont wire all the doors and stuff?

The PKUMUX will only handle the transponder bypass and the starter MUX circuit. You will still need diodes,
resistors and relays for the Parking Lights, door locks and door triggers.

The DLPKGHG2 bypass you mentioned previously would be a better solution. It takes care of the transponder bypass,
starter MUX, door locks and door triggers. While I have never tried it, the DLPKCHG2 is capable of going
D2D with your Viper remote starter. That will save you some wiring connections and also provide a Tach and a Brake
signal via D2D. That leaves only the Parking Lights.

While the Bulldog Parking Light diagram shows a direct connection to the Parking Light MUX wire, most
alarm manufacturers recommend opening the parking light MUX wire with the relay to provide light switch
isolation during remote starter parking light control. Here is a note form Audiovox :
MUST ISOLATE FROM THE SWITCH WITH A RELAY DUE TO A REST RESISTANCE FORM THE SWITCH, USE A 1.1K OHM RESISTOR.

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Soldering is fun!

Ok, so if I go with the: https://www.savinglots.com/lotprod.asp?item=DLPKCHG2

I still need a few relays, which ones does this one not cover?

See second paragraph from previous post.

You need one 30/40A SPDT relay and one 1.1K resistor for the Parking Light circuit. The DLPKCHG2 will handle the rest.

The bad news is they are out of stock at that place...

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Soldering is fun!

How about this one:

https://cgi./NEW-DEI-XPRESSKIT-XK09-UNIVERSAL-TRANSPONDER-BYPASS-/220712742215?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item3363812d47

Someone on ebay has recommended me to buy Xpresskit DB-All.

https://cgi./DEI-DBALL-Databus-ALL-Multi-Module-/200539150324?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item2eb11097f4

Here is a link to the DEI products for your truck : https://www.xpresskit.com/VehicleCompatibility.aspx?p=-1&year=2006&make=Dodge&model=RAM&ps=1&s=0 The DB-ALL and the XK09 would have to be flashed with the correct firmware for your truck. That requires a special USB cable. Some online sellers will flash the bypass module with the correct firmware prior to shipment. The DLPKCHG2 comes preloaded.

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Soldering is fun!

Just buy the CHALL and CHTH2 cable from amazon or ebay.

Just put one in my 06. Four splices, one cut wire, one grounded wire and it is running perfectly.

If you do not want to spend the $80 to $90 it will cost the get the CHALL and adapter cable, the spend the $250 to get it installed.

These trucks have caused major issues when wiring direct.

kreg357 wrote:

Here is a link to the DEI products for your truck : https://www.xpresskit.com/VehicleCompatibility.aspx?p=-1&year=2006&make=Dodge&model=RAM&ps=1&s=0 The DB-ALL and the XK09 would have to be flashed with the correct firmware for your truck. That requires a special USB cable. Some online sellers will flash the bypass module with the correct firmware prior to shipment. The DLPKCHG2 comes preloaded.

I understand that they will have to be programmed, but are these units full feature things that will complete the job and use no relays? I have some sellers that will pre program them before shipping so the programming isnt an issue. I don't need to reprogram every so its not an issue.

Those DEI bypass modules will do everything except the Parking Light MUX. You will still need one relay and the 1.1k ohm resistor for the parking light control. If you go to the previously posted DEI link, they list each module and what its' capabilities are. Complete install instructions can be found in the modules Install Guide.

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Soldering is fun!

I know im asking a lot but you are helping me. :)

What about this one:
https://cgi./BYPASSKIT-CHDL1B-PK-CHRYSLER-DODGE-BYPASS-MODULE-/180436005060?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item2a02d2f0c4

Here it is on xpresskits site:

https://www.xpresskit.com/product.aspx?productid=89

Its a discontinued kit, but I want to find something thats cheap and on ebay or another site. I know theres a cheap module on there, theres like 15!

BYPASSKIT CHDL1B-PK CHRYSLER-DODGE BYPASS MODULE on eBay

Sorry for the triple post but I cannot edit them...

I found the DEI XK532 on ebay.

DIRECTED XK532
Remote start data interface and door lock & alarm control for Chrysler, Dodge, and Jeep model vehicles with 2nd Generation Sentry Key

Item Features:

    * remote start data interface and door lock & alarm control
    * preloaded for use in late model Chrysler, Dodge and Jeep vehicles equipped with 2nd Generation Sentry Key RF transponder anti-theft systems
    * no key required - works with your factory databus
    * included 10-pin harness provides wires to connect to your factory system
    * maintains factory alarm interface integrity
    * door lock, sliding door, and door pin status control
    * window roll-up
    * trunk/hatch release

Then all i need is a relay for the parking lights.

Yes, the discontinued DEI XK532 will work. Just make sure it is flashed with CHDL7 Ver 3.0 firmware.

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Soldering is fun!

Ok I found a DEI XK03 CHDL7 with CHDL7 Platform 3, So I am assuming this chip is pre programmed with what you have mentioned.

But I have also found on xpresskits site, "IMPORTANT NOTE: XK03/CHDL3 WILL NOT WORK ON 2003-2006 DODGE RAM's THAT ARE NOT EQUIPPED WITH FACTORY SECURITY"

I am not sure if mine does or not, just bought it.
If you lock the car and open a door from the inside it doesn't go off.

The XK03 with CHDL7 firmware does not do the transponder bypass function.

The XK532 with CHDL7 firmware does the transponder bypass. On FleaBay for < $17.

Both modules handle the door locks, factory alarm, starter MUX and door status.

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Soldering is fun!

Ok, thanks. I hope you understand what I am doing. Throughout this process I have seen modules that are for my car but are cheap and modules for my care that are new and really expensive... so I filtered them out to a working, compatible, yet affordable.

Were going with the XK532, thanks! I only need one relay and I will order that off of e-bay as well.

Another question as for the parking light relay, for the resistor. I wire a 1k resistor a and a 1XX ohm resistor in sequence to obtain the 1130 ohms?

Yes, connected in series the resistance value in cumulative. So a 1k and 100 ohm resistor will work.

Or you could buy a 5 pack of 2.2k ohm resistors and combine 2 in parallel to produce the desired 1.1k ohm.

posted_image

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Soldering is fun!

But i need to produce the full 1130, so this now tells me to get a 1k,100ohm,30ohm resistors.

Bulldog Security suggests a 1130 ohm resistor to ground ( no isolation ). Audiovox suggests relay isolation of the light switch and a 1.1k ohm resistor to ground as per note :

MUST ISOLATE FROM THE SWITCH WITH A RELAY DUE TO A REST RESISTANCE FORM THE SWITCH,
USE A 1.1K OHM RESISTOR.

Not sure how critical the resistance is. Most resistors are + or - 5% ( gold band ), so a 1k resistor can be anywhere from 950 to 1050 ohms...

Relay wiring:

Relay Pin 86 to Viper Parking Light output. Set to (+) with jumper/fuse.
Relay Pin 85 to chassis ground.
Relay pin 87a to switch side of of cut WHITE/ Green Parking Light wire.
Relay Pin 87 thru 1.1K ohm resistor to chassis ground.
Relay Pin 30 to BCM side of cut WHITE/ Green Parking Light wire.

( Bonus points for a 1N4004 diode across Relay Pins 85 to 86 with the band towards Pin 86. posted_image )

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Soldering is fun!

And from experience with European multiplex systems, your answer Kreg is right on the money.

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

Here is what the seller of the XK532 sent me:

"This will take care of monitoring the doors when it comes to the alarm portion of your 5901, however, there are a few other parts you will need for the installation. You will need two relays and resistors to connect your second starter as well as accessory wires to the ignition. If you would like to send us your email address during the checkout process, we can send the wiring sheet for your vehicle as well as the sheet for wiring up the two relays with resistors. If you have any other questions, please let us know! MotoCARR"

So now I need three relays?

The XK532 with CHDL7 firmware should be able to control the Second Starter MUX wire properly. This
is from the DEI product description:

Xk532 even has a output called MUX which is used to activate the vehciles 2nd starter and 2nd accessory circuits when remote starting....
Chrysler MUX activation is an integrated feature of #532. The MUX is a 2nd Starter and accessory activation wire which requires a resistance value in order for start up.

The XK532s' Violet/White wire is connected to the trucks PURPLE / Brown Starter2 MUX wire. There is a note on the last page of the XK532 install guide if your truck does not have a Starter1 wire.

Still looks like only one relay and resistor for the Parking Lights.

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Soldering is fun!

are all the wires i am accessing going to be under the steering column? I installed the wire harness for the audio and installed a double din touchscreen myself. i know i can handle this alarm task.

The Vipers' Power, Hood Pin and the Tach wires go into the engine compartment, everything else is on the drivers side under the dash. The XK532 will supply the door trigger signal for the Viper alarm.

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Soldering is fun!

so i get the power from the battery? or from the ignition switch. please tell me which one it should be hooked up to, and how it should be hooked up. Right now I have a 4 gauge power wire going to a sub amp right now.

I believe the +12V constant at the ignition switch ( Light Blue/Red ) is too small in gauge to handle the Vipers current needs. You could tap into the 4 gauge power amp wire if it is more convenient. There are four +12V constant power wires from the Viper to connect. I solder everything and either use heat shrink tube or Scotch Super 33+ electric tape to insulate.

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Soldering is fun!

Today I am going to start some basic mount and placement and pre wiring of some wires. And go to radio shack to get my shopping list:

*resistor pack (if cheaper then buying a 1k,100,30ohm resistors)
*30/40 amp SPDT automotive 5 pin relay
*1N4004 diode

Parts come in next monday or so UPS ground. I ordered a couple days ago.

Radio Shack has Digital Multi Meters, too. posted_image

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Soldering is fun!

ok look here: https://www.mediafire.com/?9c5iqm2f7lyq1o8

that is the xk532 install guide, it says I need two keys for programming. I only have one!

I don't believe my key is a special one like it has a chip in it, how do i tell if it does? I believe if i went to lowes, i could have them make a copy of the key for make $3 correct? And it should work. But why does the programming need two separate keys? Couldn't I essentially use the same key sense its not a chipped key?

Get your $3 key copy from Lowes and see if it will start your truck. If it does, then you don't have an immobilizer. If not, at least you got yourself a spare key to unlock your truck.

Or you can look for the light on your dash when you start. Usually looks like a Key or something.

Hopefully you don't have the transponder immobilizer system, of course the iDatalink module that was recommended on Page 1 of this thread will program with only one key.

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Soldering is fun!

well, if i go buy this key at lowes and it works, will that work as my second key?

No, it will just prove that your truck does not have an immobilizer system and does not need the transponder portion of the XK532.

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Soldering is fun!

not even going to waste my time. i did some research and found out my key isnt a programmed key therefore not having a transponder. A simple test proves this even more, go to ebay, search "transponder key 2006 dodge ram" that key isn't mine. mine is completely different. now I find other keys like mine on the net that dont have chips. So that is kind of proven. So when the kit comes, do i just skip over that chunk of the instructions? It seems like some stuff is done...

isn't your key an all in one with keyless and such built into the base of the key?
if so open the fob, and take the "guts" out and try starting with just the skeleton key. very simple.... can't say i've seen a chrysler that style NOT have a transponder.

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A DMM is a beautiful thing.

MECP Advanced Installer Certified.

My key, is one that has an electronic device that activates the panic, locks the doors and unlocks. All it is, is a shell with a key attached to it. And the electronic peice can be taken out and put into another and have the key cut and it will work.

so you've started the vehicle with the electronics removed and by just using the skeleton key?

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A DMM is a beautiful thing.

MECP Advanced Installer Certified.

No, but I have enough common sense to know that the electronic device that I am able to take out only goes to the lock,unlock,and panic button. The remote portion serves no other purpose, there is no connection.

I know if I take it out, my car will start. Simple as that.

Go with DEI's DB-ALL. From experience it is far more reliable than the XK09, still made by Directed and doesn't require extra modules just to flash it. It comes pre-flashed and only needs to be wired and programed.

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Gary Sather

try it out. i'm curious. maybe you can teach me a thing or two. because i first hand have experienced numerous where the electronics that do the lock unlock, also have the transponder built into that same piece. look at the alternative method for programming the xk532.... it tells you to open up a key/fob. wonder why...

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A DMM is a beautiful thing.

MECP Advanced Installer Certified.

Yes instead of wasting all this time, remove the electronics from the key and with the car unlocked, wait 5 mins then turn the naked key in the ignition and see if it starts and runs.

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

If you have the black remote with the lock, unlock, and panic built in, you have the transponder key.

My 06 Ram was built in Jan 06 and it has it. It is wireless so the fact that there is no connection from the electronics to the key means nothing.

There is a big square box called the SKIM that is part of the ignition switch that recieves the signal.

If you still do not believe, take apart the key, leave all the electronics at least 6 ft away from the truck and start it. It will start, but will shut itself off soon after.

Right that's what, three people who've posted virtually the same comment, come on Sullivan you keep telling us how good you are, try it rather than talking about it.

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

ok but do i really need two keys? or could i trick it by using the same key?

opelap wrote:

If you have the black remote with the lock, unlock, and panic built in, you have the transponder key.

My 06 Ram was built in Jan 06 and it has it. It is wireless so the fact that there is no connection from the electronics to the key means nothing.

There is a big square box called the SKIM that is part of the ignition switch that recieves the signal.

If you still do not believe, take apart the key, leave all the electronics at least 6 ft away from the truck and start it. It will start, but will shut itself off soon after.

What do you suggest I do? I only have one key, I purchased the XK532 which requires two keys. The dipstick who sold me the truck 4 months ago never found the other key. Can I trick it, or should I buy another key, hopefully its not too expensive?

If you could "trick it" by using one key then why would they say you need 2 keys to program?

an flcan properly flashed properly will do one key programming.

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A DMM is a beautiful thing.

MECP Advanced Installer Certified.

opelap wrote:

Just buy the CHALL and CHTH2 cable from amazon or ebay.

Just put one in my 06. Four splices, one cut wire, one grounded wire and it is running perfectly.

If you do not want to spend the $80 to $90 it will cost the get the CHALL and adapter cable, the spend the $250 to get it installed.

These trucks have caused major issues when wiring direct.

i am going to buy the chall and the chth2 i guess.

Ugh, makes me soo mad, the xk532 just showed up.

Going to the dealer and getting a second key made & programmed isn't a bad idea. You could use the XK532 and have a spare key just in case. If the previous owner promised two keys with the sale, give him the bill.

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Soldering is fun!

Before I make another dumb purchase, its either the DBALL or the CHALL with CHTH2 cable.

DBALL: $60.00
CHALL w/ CHTH2: $95.00-100.00

Your choice, either one will work as long as the DBALL is flashed with the correct firmware. There is only one firmware for the CHALL so it is not a worry.

The DBALL will require hooking up a few more wires, but you don't seem adverse to that.

Head on over to xpresskit.com and look at both install guides and make your choice.

CHALL and CHTH2 Should be here soon. Will report back when and if I need any help.

another question, CHALL comes in monday or so next week. but how do I tell if I have a Starter (+) present or not? the CHTH2 says something about this...

you test with a meter.

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A DMM is a beautiful thing.

MECP Advanced Installer Certified.

[moved by admin]

So if I look familiar I am, from here:

https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp~TID~125243~PN~1

I got it all hooked up, or at least the alarm portion. Remote start is tomorrow hopefully if the weather is nice.

Right now, I don't like the LED status light, why does it blink when I am driving? It is very annoying. Alarm works great.

Except right now i can bump it with my body and it doesn't go off?

I am about to install a field disturbance but I would rather have the alarm sensitivity working first. I think its on level 15??? Any help?

sullivan91 wrote:

Right now, I don't like the LED status light, why does it blink when I am driving? It is very annoying. Alarm works great.

Because you have not hooked up all the required wires. The "remote start" wires you refer to contain the ignition input of the alarm. The alarm is flashing the led to tell you what zone was triggered last, and it won't reset until it sees the ignition turn on.

Ok I hooked up the pink wire with the yellow wire on the chall and it stopped the issue. Now I need to hook up the mux wire and stuff with a relay, I need help though.

What help do you need? The CHALL instructions are pretty clear right down to the pole of the relay they should be attached to.

Need to be more specific.

No. Possibly a resistor is needed and I need to find this out.

For the parking lights you must keep the RS on a negative trigger and put it through a 1.1K resistor at the Parking light switch.

Diagram and wire colors can be found on www.bulldogsecurity.com

so NO resistor is needed for the remote start?

No. The CHALL takes care of the Accessory and Starter signals on the MUX line which are done with resistance.

Looking for some help on hooking up the remote start portion of my system. The alarm is all nicely hooked up using chall. Remote start is the only task left unfinished.

Here is how it is supposed to be installed:

https://img15.imageshack.us/img15/6780/challt.png

Here is the wiring diagram for my truck:

https://www.bulldogsecurity.com/diagrams/printpage.asp?ModelID=19742&MakeID=16

I have a relay, and some of them hooked up. But I just don't understand diagrams that well. I like step by step instructions that are detailed or photos.

If someone could please assist me by telling me which colored wires from where go to the relay and which wire connections I need to make by describing the color of the wires.

Thanks