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alarm/remote starter killing battery

Printed From: the12volt.com
Forum Name: Car Security and Convenience
Forum Discription: Car Alarms, Keyless Entries, Remote Starters, Immobilizer Bypasses, Sensors, Door Locks, Window Modules, Heated Mirrors, Heated Seats, etc.
URL: https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp?tid=125407
Printed Date: May 08, 2024 at 5:45 PM


Topic: alarm/remote starter killing battery

Posted By: dbell34
Subject: alarm/remote starter killing battery
Date Posted: January 02, 2011 at 1:16 PM

Just recently I've noticed that my alarm/rs is killing my car battery overnight. It seems to only happen if I have used my remote start function, as if something is not shutting off completely. Once the battery has died and I recharge it and I do not use the remote start function the battery seems to hold. I'm under the assumption that something comes on when I use the remote start and doesn't go off like its suppose to. Does anyone have any ideas of what may be causing this issue? Any help is greatly appreciated!

NOTE: I think it may have something to do with my bypass module because I thought it was my previous alarm/rs but I changed that and still have the same issue.



Replies:

Posted By: kohara73
Date Posted: January 02, 2011 at 2:36 PM
Pull neg. battery terminal and do a parasitic draw test. Car should prob'ly be drawing no more than 40-70 ma while it is off. If there is a draw, unplug RS or bypass and see if it goes away.

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Keith




Posted By: dragonpntr
Date Posted: January 04, 2011 at 2:57 AM
What kind of vehicle is it?




Posted By: dbell34
Date Posted: January 04, 2011 at 3:42 AM
Its a 05 magnum.

@Kohara73, I am unable to do the battery draw test because the problem only happens when I use the remote start feature and when I disconnect the battery to do the draw test it sets everything back to normal! Is there some other way to do the draw test without disconnecting the battery?




Posted By: kohara73
Date Posted: January 04, 2011 at 5:43 AM
You could try probing at the RS unit to see if anything is live (or grounded) when it shouldn't be. The only thing that should have +12V is your power line(s) to the RS.

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Keith




Posted By: KPierson
Date Posted: January 04, 2011 at 6:05 AM
If you think it is the bypass module put the amp meter on the bypass module. Remote start the car and then shut it off and see if the current drops down to virtually nothing.

What kind of bypass are you using? What kind of alarm?

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Kevin Pierson




Posted By: dbell34
Date Posted: January 04, 2011 at 8:07 AM
KPierson wrote:

If you think it is the bypass module put the amp meter on the bypass module. Remote start the car and then shut it off and see if the current drops down to virtually nothing.

What kind of bypass are you using? What kind of alarm?


Chdl7pk2 bypass/viper 5701 alarm.




Posted By: sean11901
Date Posted: January 04, 2011 at 10:20 AM
is it wired in d2d? I just did a 4113 avital with a pk09 and tried d2d for the first time and I had a crap load of problems :/ going to re wire in W2W because the battery died over night and car doesn't start on first attempt but does start when the remote start self attempts for a second time.

This is a 05 nissan titan btw.




Posted By: dbell34
Date Posted: January 04, 2011 at 10:37 AM
sean11901 wrote:

is it wired in d2d? I just did a 4113 avital with a pk09 and tried d2d for the first time and I had a crap load of problems :/ going to re wire in W2W because the battery died over night and car doesn't start on first attempt but does start when the remote start self attempts for a second time.

This is a 05 nissan titan btw.


It is not d2d, it is hard wired in, but I was thinking of trying d2d!




Posted By: sean11901
Date Posted: January 05, 2011 at 7:01 AM
wiring it in d2d wont solve your problem. you could have a defective module or remote start, i would go with what everyone else is saying and do a parasitice power draw test. first remove the 2 fuses from the remote starts power wires, then disconnect the car batterys negative wire and use a dmm to meause the amount of amps that is being drawn. then put the fuses back in the remote start , remote start the vehicle, shut it down then test the draw on the battery, since you say it only happens when you remote start the vehicle.




Posted By: dbell34
Date Posted: January 05, 2011 at 3:09 PM

sean11901 wrote:

wiring it in d2d wont solve your problem. you could have a defective module or remote start, i would go with what everyone else is saying and do a parasitice power draw test. first remove the 2 fuses from the remote starts power wires, then disconnect the car batterys negative wire and use a dmm to meause the amount of amps that is being drawn. then put the fuses back in the remote start , remote start the vehicle, shut it down then test the draw on the battery, since you say it only happens when you remote start the vehicle.

I will just have to probe the module and the remote start for 12v because if I try to do the draw test, once I put the dmm inline I don't have enough power for the remote start to work. That would be the only way for me to test the draw after a remote start. Thanks for the suggestion.





Posted By: howie ll
Date Posted: January 05, 2011 at 4:14 PM
Back to old school, inductive ammeter.

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.




Posted By: enice
Date Posted: January 05, 2011 at 7:57 PM
Do you let the car remote start and let it time out? One of my customer's car had the same issue. Actually thanks to his troubleshooting we noticed that his auto lights stayed on after remote start shut down. We had to pulse a wire during crank and it took care of the issue.




Posted By: dbell34
Date Posted: January 05, 2011 at 8:02 PM
No I haven't let it time out. What does letting it timeout do? How did you find out the lights were staying on, was it visual or you tested the wires?




Posted By: dbell34
Date Posted: January 23, 2011 at 8:10 PM
I finally figured it out. It seems that there was something wrong with my bypass module. I replaced it and now everything seems to be all well. Thanks for all the help!




Posted By: brcidd
Date Posted: January 23, 2011 at 8:36 PM
This happened to me awhile back when I used the GWR (ground while running) wire for the bypass module as well as for a relay- WITHOUT diode isolating them--- the relay was holding in by "grounding" through the bypass module- drew 150 ma whenever not in use- and only after a remote start- Did you try to power more than one item with your GWR wire?

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Brcidd - Engineer That Does Remote Starter Installs on the side.





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