2008 saab 9 3 door locks

Has anyone done door locks on an '08 Saab 9-3. Apparently there is no door lock interface and according to DEI site I need to pick up the door locks and the truck release in the Drivers Door.... Sux but OK..

BUT, they say to tie in with a (-) w/ 600Ohm Resistor for lock, and a (-) w/ 14.k Ohm for Unlock.... Now I have done this but I cannot get it to work properly... Can anyone shed some light?

Thanks
Steve

Haven't done one but...  Here is info from Bulldog Security.  Maybe a typo but Unlock is a
1400 ohm resistor, not a 14,000 ohm resistor.  Are you going directly from the remote start
door lock outputs thru resistor to car lock wire?  Have you tried using relays?

 POWER LOCK         BROWN / WHITE        (-)thru a 600 ohm Resistor   DRIVERS DOOR LOCK SWITCH, PIN 4, 4PINPLUG    
 POWER UNLOCK   Use LOCK wire         (-) thru a 1400 ohm Resistor

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Soldering is fun!

Yep, After I posted I figured I would try that... The relays worked.. Figured I'd follow up for the next guy..

Thanks for the response.

Im doing a remote start in my 2008 93 and am looking for information on the door locks. sseaton said that the relays worked. I think I'm in over my head, so can you tell me what relays you used? Did you hook up to the 3 wires on the lock switch or pick them up some other place? Are the resistors required? Any other tid-bits of information that will help me? Like I said, I think I am in over my head, but with a push in the right direction I can probably finish it up.

Never mind about the resistors or where to connect them. I see on the alldata diagram which wire to use. Just need to know about the relays.

Most alarm-R/S systems have 2 wires for lock control. These are usually LOW current negative outputs and won't produce enough power to drive the resistors, thus you need relays, standard 4 or 5 pin (pin 87a not used on 5 pin types) Bosch/Tycho cube type relays or DEI 451 module.
If your unit has 6 wires, then it has internal relays and won't need extra.

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

This is the diagram if two wire locking:-resistive_locks.bmp

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

Will micro relays work for this or do they have to be the 30 AMP relays?

Micros of 3 amps + will work fine.

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

I got the DEI 451 module and have it hooked up with the correct resistors to get the required ohms. Hitting the unlock button on the remote gets the locks to pop, but because of the way my Saab is, its 100%. When unlock with my factory remote or the lock switch inside the system seems to first lock and then unlock. The opposite happens when I lock. It first unlocks then locks. When I use the remote starter to unlock, the lock pops, but then goes right back to the lock position. Again, the same happens when locking just the opposite. I changed the starter to do a double pulse instead, but that just does the wrong thing twice. Any ideas?

Also, I'm not sure if I knocked something loose or the DEI relay is bad now, but now nothing is happening to the locks even though the starter gets the lock/unlock command and I can hear the relay click. Since this system is a negative ground pulse setup it has voltage at the switch all the time. Should the lock/unlock wires coming from the relay have a voltage reading all the time too or would there just be voltage when lock or unlock happens? When I test the wires going out of the relay (blue/black and GREEN/ black) nothing reads on my meter. Testing the line from the starter to the relay I get 12 volts which is what I expected. Do I have a bad relay. loose connection or is this how it should be?

Bare the two wires just before you joined to the resistors with all doors closed and the key well away from the ignition then ground each in turn. If it works properly there's something wrong with the 451 (extremely unlikely). If it doesn't one of your motors needs replacing. What happens if you use the OEM remote?

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

Just re-read your last post, lock and unlock wires from the alarm will either read 12v+ at rest and go to 0v when either lock or unlock is selected.
The two relay output wires, green and blue will read open circuit at rest going to 0v on arm (l0ck, the green) and disarm (unlock) the blue.
Any other result, check your wiring on the 451.
Brown and white not used, purple to ground and make sure the thin red input from the alarm is 12v+ all the time.

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

And for my next trick, I will reverse the lock and unlock circuits and expect things to work normally.

Besides reversing things, I reconnected the ground, and combined the lock and unlock wires instead of how I originally had it. I had two wires going to the lock switch, one for lock and one for unlock. Closing the door to try the lock also helps.

Anyways, thanks for the replies. Everything is working as it should. As a side note, I have remote start working in my Saab. Though my searches on different forums, I see a lot of people say that it can't happen. I can't take credit for it, but a member of another forum was able to reverse engineer the ignition system and build a bypass for it.