530t window module in trailblazer
Printed From: the12volt.com
Forum Name: Car Security and Convenience
Forum Discription: Car Alarms, Keyless Entries, Remote Starters, Immobilizer Bypasses, Sensors, Door Locks, Window Modules, Heated Mirrors, Heated Seats, etc.
URL: https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp?tid=125422
Printed Date: May 31, 2024 at 8:13 AM
Topic: 530t window module in trailblazer
Posted By: kuchar09
Subject: 530t window module in trailblazer
Date Posted: January 03, 2011 at 12:11 AM
I have a 2006 Chevy Trailblazer that I just installed a Viper 5901. Now the only thing I have left to do is wire up the window module to the motors and switches. I could get the windows to work with the remote at first but not the window switches, but now its hit n miss... one goes down only and the other goes up when I lock the car.
Both of my windows have the one touch down feature already and I think that's causing my problem but I am not sure.
I am starting to think that the 530T will not work with the Trailblazer.
Any Opinions?
Any wire diagrams or advice would be greatly appreciated.
Replies:
Posted By: howie ll
Date Posted: January 03, 2011 at 6:21 AM
Did you wire directly to the motor wires in each door?
-------------
Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.
Posted By: kuchar09
Date Posted: January 03, 2011 at 7:23 AM
howie ll wrote:
Did you wire directly to the motor wires in each door?
In the passenger door I did, but in the drivers door I mounted closer to the switch since I didn't want to pull apart the what insulation stuff at first. But now I can get right to the wires at the motor, so possibly I could try getting closer to the motor on the drivers door.
Another thing I noticed is when I tested the cut wires the go to the towards the switch(I believe) I would only get a quick pulse of about 3V when I pressed down on the door control then would drop to 0. I then re hooked the motor back up to how it was originally and when the window motor is moving from the switch I get about 12 V on both wires(up and down).
If I remember right
Driver Motor is UP is Blue, DOWN is Brown
Passenger Motor is UP Lt. Blue, Down is Tan
And yes I am mounting heavy gauge wire towards motor and I also ran the passenger up,down motor and switch wires into the passenger door.
Maybe I'll try and take pictures later.
Thanks
Posted By: howie ll
Date Posted: January 03, 2011 at 8:39 AM
A couple of thoughts.
Slightly heavier gauge wire, extend the live and ground wires directly to your car battery, fuse the live at the battery.
-------------
Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.
Posted By: kuchar09
Date Posted: January 03, 2011 at 9:09 AM
howie ll wrote:
A couple of thoughts.
Slightly heavier gauge wire, extend the live and ground wires directly to your car battery, fuse the live at the battery.
Ok, I'll give that a try.
So this should be able to work with my windows?
And where I cut the 2 wires going to the motor is where all 4 of my wires connect, correct? The 2 heavy guage wires go toward the motor, while the light guage wires go the opposite way toward the switch from where I cut at the motor?
Thanks for all your help!!!
Posted By: howie ll
Date Posted: January 03, 2011 at 10:37 AM
Yes.
-------------
Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.
Posted By: kuchar09
Date Posted: January 03, 2011 at 1:18 PM
howie ll wrote:
Yes.
Well I ran the power and 3 ground cables to the battery and when I try it I hear a click but nothing happens. Same when I try the buttons.
Posted By: howie ll
Date Posted: January 03, 2011 at 1:50 PM
Time to get out your DMM and see what's happening.
Test by lowering the windows then grounding the orange wires.
-------------
Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.
Posted By: kuchar09
Date Posted: January 03, 2011 at 4:04 PM
howie ll wrote:
Time to get out your DMM and see what's happening.
Test by lowering the windows then grounding the orange wires.
Can you be more specific on what to test please. The drivers door switch has 4 heavy guage wire orange, blue, brown, and blake. The orange has constant 12V, blue 12V while going up, 12V while going down, and the black is ground I beileve. I just noticed when I locked my car my passenger window went down, so I'm going to switch the wires and se what happens. The driver door does nothing. I though for sure I had the wires correct... guess not.
But yea if you could give me more info on what to test for... thanks
Posted By: howie ll
Date Posted: January 03, 2011 at 4:18 PM
Somewhere near each motor should be 2 wires going into each motor.
They should both be negative at rest.
Turn on the ignition then motor UP that window.
One wire should stay at neg whilst the other should read 12v+.
The one reading 12 volts is the "up motor wire" the other if you then motor down the window should read 12v+ whilst the other should stay neg.
That would be the "motor down wire".
Those would be the two you cut and join to the 530t. Repeat for the other window.
This is a type 1 and is in the instructions.
-------------
Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.
Posted By: kuchar09
Date Posted: January 03, 2011 at 4:22 PM
howie ll wrote:
Somewhere near each motor should be 2 wires going into each motor.
They should both be negative at rest.
Turn on the ignition then motor UP that window.
One wire should stay at neg whilst the other should read 12v+.
The one reading 12 volts is the "up motor wire" the other if you then motor down the window should read 12v+ whilst the other should stay neg.
That would be the "motor down wire".
Those would be the two you cut and join to the 530t. Repeat for the other window.
This is a type 1 and is in the instructions.
Yea ok, seems so easy yet I just can't get it to work. That's why I almost think this won't work on my switches. I'll test the wires n see what I get.
And to think I installed the 5901 with no problems :/
Posted By: kuchar09
Date Posted: January 03, 2011 at 5:07 PM
howie ll wrote:
Somewhere near each motor should be 2 wires going into each motor.
They should both be negative at rest.
Turn on the ignition then motor UP that window.
One wire should stay at neg whilst the other should read 12v+.
The one reading 12 volts is the "up motor wire" the other if you then motor down the window should read 12v+ whilst the other should stay neg.
That would be the "motor down wire".
Those would be the two you cut and join to the 530t. Repeat for the other window.
This is a type 1 and is in the instructions.
Ok I tested and made sure the wires were right and it still doesn't work....
Posted By: kuchar09
Date Posted: January 03, 2011 at 5:10 PM
Even though both my windows have one touch down this should still work, correct?
I believe that that module is built in the switch but am not positive.
Posted By: kuchar09
Date Posted: January 03, 2011 at 8:58 PM
Ok the windows kinda work with the remote, they go up bit by bit and down bit by bit. The auxiliary 1 is set to pulse, but I noticed you can set the sux 1 on the 5901 for a window mode but you need a bitwriter I believe.
The switches still do not work. I took the wires for the switches that go to the module and tried touch n to 12V and one to ground and it just clicks yet the window doesn't do anything.
Posted By: howie ll
Date Posted: January 03, 2011 at 10:10 PM
These are the correct colours and locations.
Left Front, dark blue UP, brown DOWN door module in door.
Right front, Light blue UP, tan DOWN, door module in door.
Both rears dark blue UP, brown DOWN, at switches.
-------------
Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.
Posted By: kuchar09
Date Posted: January 03, 2011 at 10:33 PM
Those are the colors I am using and am connecting an inch or 2 from the motor. I took the module apart since I saw smoke coming from it as I tried multiple combination to find a diode not connected at all, just bouncing around the case. I re-soldered it to the board the in the correct direction but it didn't make my switches work, I don't think it really made a difference at all.
I tried connecting the switch wires to a small lawnmower battery and I could hear the module click like the switches but the window did not move either way. It's almost like the module isn't sending out the signal to role down the window.
I am thinking about buying another module to see if this one is just defective but don't really want to waste my money.
Posted By: wsc75
Date Posted: February 07, 2012 at 11:56 PM
did you ever find a fix for this? I have a 2006 trailblazer ss and just installed the 530t for the front windows and am having the same problem..... my remote works the windows fine, but the switches dont work at all. They send out a 3v signal for a ms.... I rechecked all of my connections and cannot find any problems.
Posted By: metz35
Date Posted: February 08, 2012 at 5:13 AM
If you can find this part on eBay . Gm-luk2 aka superbus 2. It does windows on a trailblazer via data. It's old probably 8 years old. And I can't remember what year trailblazers. But it had dip switches on it. And all you have to do is connect a few wires from remote start and one wire to purple at obd2
Posted By: kuchar09
Date Posted: February 08, 2012 at 9:07 AM
wsc75] wrote:
did you ever find a fix for this? I have a 2006 trailblazer ss and just installed the 530t for the front windows and am having the same problem..... my remote works the windows fine, but the switches dont work at all. They send out a 3v signal for a ms.... I rechecked all of my connections and cannot find any problems.
I never did figure it out. I gave up once I found a diode that came unsoldered. I was going to mess with it this summer and see if I could figure it out.
If you get it working please share.
|