viper 5902 in a 2006 toyota tundra

Hello fellow car audio/alarm enthusiasts...i have a little delimma i just bought this new truck (06 Tundra) upgrade from an 01 and and thats where the alarm was originally in the 2001 and now when i switched it over to the new one i know there was a slight difference in the color wiring between the two years and im tech savvy but this just got me stuck when i would do remote start  it'll flash and hear the clicks from the alarm unit but no cranking or nada it'll attempt to start 2 more times then stop and flash saying low tach and i did the learn tach and all that setup but still  nothing and i've spent countless hours searching different sites as far as how to wire the h3 harness (remote start) to the 06 tundra. but nothing...previously there was a clifford alarm which no issue with alarm lock/unlock just the remote start. theres no factory alarm setup either no keysense wire or transponder setup...

h3/1 pink        to +ignition  1 input/output

h3/2 RED / wht  to +fused (30a) ignition 2/ Flex relay input 87

h3/3 orange   to +accessory output

h3/4 violet       to +starter output (carside of the starter kill)

h3/5 green      to +start input (keyside of the starter kill)

h3/6 red           to+fused (30a) ignition 1 input

h3/7 pink/wht  to +ignition 2/ flex relay output

h3/8 pink/blk   t0 +flex relay input 87a key side (if required) of flex relay

h3/9 RED / blk     to +fused (30a) accessory/starter input

and vehicle colors fo 06 tundra is

on ignition harness

12v constant    WHITE/ blue (thick gauge) and WHITE/ red (smaller gauge)

starter                BLACK/ white (+) no starter 2

ign 1                   BLACK/ red (small gauge)

ign 2                   BLACK / YELLOW (thick gauge)

accessory          pink

if anyone can post up what goes where so i can double check everything is hooked up.. thanks any help is appreciated...

oh yea theres a starter disable relay hooked up as well...

h3/1 pink        to +ignition  1 input/output                                                BLACK/ Red

h3/2 RED / wht  to +fused (30a) ignition 2/ Flex relay input 87              WHITE/ Blue

h3/3 orange   to +accessory output                                                      Pink

h3/4 violet       to +starter output                                                             carside of cut BLACK/ White  

h3/5 green      to +start input                                                                  keyside of cut BLACK/ White

h3/6 red           to+fused (30a) ignition 1 input                                   WHITE/ Blue

h3/7 pink/wht  to +ignition 2/ flex relay output                                    BLACK / YELLOW           *Viper programmed for IGN2 Flex Relay Output

h3/8 pink/blk   t0 +flex relay input 87a key side of flex relay            Not Used

h3/9 RED / blk     to +fused (30a) accessory/starter input                  WHITE/ Blue

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Soldering is fun!

aahh ok forgot all bout that see if its programmed for ign 2 flex relay i think i did set up it like u mentioned thanks for ur prompt reply ill be back with an update

now how can i go about hoookin up my rear defroster to that input that has defroster .... do i need a relay or something be bk in a bit....

ok checked the wires all is like u mentioned but still no crank when i hit the remote start after third time it'll tell me low tach signal....
is the tach wire for the 06 blue/white behind the instrument cluster not the ecu....

would it matter if violet wire from h3 harness is connect to the green wire comin from relay which then goes to starter and the other end the green wire which goes to key side? u get me?

H3/4 must connect to the car side of the cut Starter wire, not on the ignition switch side.  The Starter Kill circuit / relay is not mandatory.  As a test, you could disconnect the H3/5 wire, reconnect the cut BLACK/ White Starter wire back together and leave the H3/4 wire connected to the BLACK/ White starter wire

For the Tach signal, use a DMM and check the wire at Pin 9 of the OBD2 connector.  Most Toyotas have a valid Tach signal at that location.

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Soldering is fun!

k success but for one thing when i turn off the truck (key) truck stays on as light cluster lights like the 4wd indicators and other odd ones but when i open the door it shuts off so i poked around and it stopped doing that after i snipped a wire pin 4 which was the parking light isolation wire and well now when i did that if i remote start while armed it'll sound off the alarm but will remote start fine if not in armed mode....

Did you connect the Keysense wire?

 FACTORY ALARM DISARM     DISARMS with KEYSENSE wire, See NOTE *5     @ IGNITION SWITCH HARNESS 
 NOTE *5 THE KEYSENSE WIRE WILL DISARM THE VEHICLE WITHOUT UNLOCKING THE DOORS BY APPLYING A
 (-)NEGATIVE TO THIS WIRE DURING REMOTE STARTING.

Connect the Viper (-) 200mA Status Output Blue wire to trucks' Keysense.

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Soldering is fun!

H1/4 is not necessary for your truck.

It is best to use the trucks (-) Parking Light wire.  Set the Vipers jumper/fuse to (-) and connect the Vipers'  H1/11 White wire to the trucks Green (-) Parking Light wire.

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Soldering is fun!

ok lets start fresh from how it was....the truck previously had the clifford X (10?) and the harness there was pretty much the same as the 5902 but anyways that pin 4 on the h1 harness for the clifford was the ignition input which was part of the pre-wired starter kill relay....so all in all pretty much what ive done was remove clifford: antenna, led indicator, override/pinswitch harness,and left the prewired starter kill and h1 harness intact and hooked up the 5902 module to it and added the other harness....so inturn with the 5902 in place that pin 4 is now the parking light isolation input....