2010 f150 pats bypass wont program

I am about to torch this ***** truck.
It is a friend's 2010 F150 Lariat, with a Viper 5901 I installed.

First attempt I had installed a CANMAX400, in D2D & everything worked as it should through the data connections. (door/hood pins, tach, etc..) The only thing it wouldnt do is bypass the PATS system. I tried countless times & checked my wiring atleast 20 times. Everything is right.
Figured it was a bum module so I tried a second one, same problem. Both had updated firmware btw.

Month later the truck comes in again & this time I am putting a DB-ALL in.
Module has been updated & wired in, and it is doing the exact same thing.
All of the digital interfacing is working fine, but it still wont program the bypass.
I have checked over EVERYTHING and am getting extremely frustrated with this truck.

Anybody have any ideas? Its almost as if the key programing is locked out, but the dealer said it shouldnt be & I should be able to program a key no problem.

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Unless it raises the hair on the back of your neck, its only noise!

I'm just guessing here, but does this have anything to do with the new 80 bit keys? Are these bypass modules you tried capable of bypassing the 80 bit systems? Again...just a guess.

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Keith

Does the key have "SA" stamped on the blade?  It would be very rare to find an 80 bit immobilizer but...

Second possibility, highly unusual on a new truck but,  cloned keys?

I did a 2010 F150 with a DEI 1100F and hardwired everything else.   It was a 40 bit key.

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Soldering is fun!

Are you using a D2D cable? If so, cut the blue and green data wires out of it. Hard wire everything.

Its possible your pink wire on the DB-ALL might not be receiving voltage or little voltage from a bad solder. Check that.

Then test your GWR wire. It should activate when you turn on the remote start.

Other than that, the other thing it could be is try switching your rx/tx wires around.

Beyond the module it could be a couple things.
1. Cloned key. There is two #1 keys instead on a #1 and #2. So the vehicle can't go into programming mode.
2. The vehicle is programmed to the max amount of keys. 4 I believe. So you can't program in another one because it is full.

SA not FA on the key for 80 bit.
Example of 80 bit vs. regular key

It is not the 80bit system, both keys are stamped "S" only.
That was my first thought after the first couple tries with the canmax400.

yimke] wrote:

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Its possible your pink wire on the DB-ALL might not be receiving voltage or little voltage from a bad solder. Check that.

Then test your GWR wire. It should activate when you turn on the remote start.

Other than that, the other thing it could be is try switching your rx/tx wires around.

Beyond the module it could be a couple things.
1. Cloned key. There is two #1 keys instead on a #1 and #2. So the vehicle can't go into programming mode.
2. The vehicle is programmed to the max amount of keys. 4 I believe. So you can't program in another one because it is full.

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I will meter the pink wire's voltage.
The GWR (status wire, yes?) I am using to activate a relay to energize the keysense wire during RS. Seems to be working fine.
I'll also try swapping tx/rx wires. Tried it on the canmax's with no luck, will try on the db-all too.

The CANMAX didnt do anything when I tried to program them, just the security light would flash quickly when trying to RS. With the DB-All the second I hit RS during the programming sequence the module's LED begins to do a triple red flash, indicating the program time has expired (the 5 sec between keys). Doesnt matter how fast I do it, the second the RS powers the ignition harness the LED starts its flashing. Cloned keys would make sense. Anybody have an idea how to test/verify this?
I was thinking the programming could be locked (like you can do with a bitwriter) which would also prevent me from programing the module.

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Unless it raises the hair on the back of your neck, its only noise!

1. Test it and let us know
2. GWR (Ground when running) AKA status wire. Get rid of the keysense wire and relay. There is no point in energizing it because it does nothing for you. Just go straight to the bypass. Or you could use the blue/white for the bypass and the blue for keysense. Unless you hooked up rear/mirror defog.

Disconnect the keysense wire while programming, it might be confusing the car that you are inserting another key.

The dealership said the programming was unlocked though. So you're covered there.

Also I saw this in the programming;
When a DBALL is used in D2D with either Viper , Clifford or Python , the jumpers on the remote starter be placed in the operating position.

Yeah, jumpers need to be in the horizontal position for any D2D connection to work.
That has been done, & the alarm is communicating 100% with the module, and the module is communicating 90% with the vehicle. The problem with the bypass has to be somewhere immediately around or dealing with the PATS system. Im not perfect, but I am quite proficient at alarm installs, and I am 99% sure the issue has nothing to do with the install.

Pink wire is showing the same voltage as the main power wire from the alarm, so there are no connection issues there.
The key sense was not originally hooked up, I hooked it up after the CANMAX wouldnt work to begin with. I figured maybe the truck needed to "see" a key while the bypass was creating a key code.
Ive tried the DBALL with & without the keysense & it doesnt make a bit of difference. I will be pulling that back out anyway.

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Unless it raises the hair on the back of your neck, its only noise!

Sorry just trying to cover all steps. Never know someone's skill level online, so I think it's better just to cover everything.

I would recommend the FL-CAN / FL-ALL. Or the idatalink equivalent. They actually tell you what is wrong when programming (cloned key, no ignition input etc...

An update, RS is finally working as it should. How? Not a clue.

After trying everything, I let my friend bring his truck to the Ford dealer.
I knew it had to be something with programming.

They had it done & running perfectly in under 20 min. Cool right? Maybe if they would tell the truth. Tech said he swapped the bypass's wires around and it programed just fine, which is strange because my doing so did absolutely nothing, for either module used.

So I guess I'll never know.

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Unless it raises the hair on the back of your neck, its only noise!