Printer Friendly Forum Posts - 2006 ford f250 diesel

you should not need a bypass for this installation

here is the wire chart for your truck

MODEL       YEAR(S)
F SERIES SUPER DUTY       2006 -2007
KEY       T-HARNESS       IMMOBILIZER
N/A       N/A       N/A
PART       COLOR       LOCATION       DIAGRAM
12 VOLT CONSTANT       YELLOW (+) and LIGHT GREEN/ PURPLE (+)       @ IGNITION SWITCH HARNESS
STARTER       DARK GREEN (+)       @ IGNITION SWITCH HARNESS
STARTER 2       N/A
IGNITION 1       RED / LIGHT GREEN (+)       @ IGNITION SWITCH HARNESS
IGNITION 2       RED / BLACK (+)       @ IGNITION SWITCH HARNESS
IGNITION 3       N/A
ACCESSORY /HEATER BLOWER 1       GRAY / YELLOW (+)       @ IGNITION SWITCH HARNESS
ACCESSORY /HEATER BLOWER 2       DARK/BLUE/LIGHT GREEN (+)       @ IGNITION SWITCH HARNESS
KEYSENSE       N/A
PARKING LIGHTS ( - )       N/A
PARKING LIGHTS ( + )       BROWN (+)       @ HEADLIGHT Switch or VSM, GREEN Plug, Pin 2, See NOTE *1
POWER LOCK       PINK / YELLOW (TYPE C) See NOTE *2       in DRIVERS KICK PANEL, @ DOOR HARNESS
POWER UNLOCK       PINK/LIGHT GREEN (TYPE C) See NOTE *2       in DRIVERS KICK PANEL, @ DOOR HARNESS
LOCK MOTOR WIRE       PINK/BLACK (TYPE C)       in DRIVERS KICK PANEL, @ DOOR HARNESS
DOOR TRIGGER       Use DOMELIGHT Supervison wire
DOMELIGHT SUPERVISION       BLACK/ LIGHT BLUE (+)       @ PASSENGER KICK PANEL or Cluster Blue Plug, Pin 26
TRUNK RELEASE       N/A
SLIDING POWER DOOR       N/A
HORN       DARK BLUE (-)       @ HORN SWITCH or VSM, GREEN Plug, Pin 6, See NOTE *1
TACH       See NOTE *3
WAIT TO START LIGHT       See NOTE *4
BRAKE       LIGHT GREEN (+)       @ SWITCH above BRAKE PEDAL
FACTORY ALARM DISARM       N/A
ANTI-THEFT       N/A
NOTES
NOTE *1 The VSM (Vehicle Security Module) is located to the RIGHT of the GAS Pedal, just above the Transmission hump and below the Radio. the VSM is NOT Accessible from the Radio opening.

NOTE *2 Vehicles WITHOUT a FACTORY KEYLESS Entry Remote Control are a TYPE "C" Door Locking System. Vehicles WITH a FACTORY KEYLESS Entry Remote Control are a TYPE "B" Door Locking System and the LOCK wire is a WHITE/ RED (TYPE B) and the UNLOCK is a BLACK/ WHITE TYPE B), BOTH are located in the Drivers Kick Panel, at the Door Harness.

NOTE *3 On GAS Engines the TACH wire is any wire that is NOT: RED / LIGHT GREEN or RED / YELLOW at any IGNITION COIL or FUEL-INJECTOR. On DIESEL Engines the TACH wire is a LIGHT GREEN / WHITE wire in a 5-Pin Harness held up with WHITE tape located behind the Parking Brake Release.

NOTE *4 On this vehicle you can not use the WAIT TO START wire, you must use the WAIT TO START TIMER Programming in your Installation manual.

if you want detail pics of the truck send me an email with the vehicle in the subject line

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if its a diesel i think there might be one more ignition wire that has to be hooked up for the glow plugs

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12 pin low current plug:

yellow white- not used

orange- not used

pink-was told this could not be used on my model it would have to be

programmed

gray-not used

purple-Brake Switch-connected to light green at brake pedal switch

green-Start Activation-unsure if needed

orange black- not used

white- hooked to parking light switch but does not flash

yellow black- run ignition-hooked to red and light green at ignition

switch harness

brown- not used

black-ground

red white- Tried to hook to tach wire which has a steady 12v at all rpm

but still no luck starting

6 pin high current plug:

2 red fused wires hooked to battery terminal

Pink and White- not used

Pink-hooked to wire only with ignition power source

Grey- A/C Heater Control Power

Brown-hooked to dark green from ignition harness and it reads 10v while

starting but still will not start

3 pin low current plug

Blue- not used

Red- Not used

Green- Not used

Also I am not sure what the other low current plug is for or if its

needed. Also do I have to reinstall the CS-865-RKE for the remote locks

or can this not be programmed for the new system. The box clicks as if it is trying to start but nothing else. I also tested all the prongs for the large 6 pin plugs and they all read as they should with the exception of the pink and white which is not hooked up. Please let me know if the wiring is correct or not and where they need to go. Im stuck with the dash torn apart and no DIESEL TRUCK to drive and you know how that makes a man feel. Back in the 4x4 Jeep I guess . Let me know where I went wrong.
I read the direction slowly fast and used 2 different meters but this darn thing is killing me. Thanks for everyone's help and I hope to get this solved soon.

The yellow and black wire (-) RUN Ignition 1 is a negative ignition output or ground out when running so is this the turbo cool down wire and if so where does it go? Also the pink and white wire from the high current plug says Jumper Select (default=ignition 2) Start 2, ACC 2, Ignition 2. What should this be hooked to? I know I'm asking a lot but I appreciate everyone's help.

Does a standard XL Ford f-250 diesel have a need for a transporter bypass kit. I can get the accessories to run as well as the engine tries to turn over but I just needed to know if it had one and if so where is it located. thanks again

you do not need one for a f250 in 2006

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Thanks for the information

OK so I have wired the unit up correctly per crimestopper but the truck will not start or even attempt to start. I have power at all the places I should and when I should but I cannot get the darn thing to work. I dont even think my remotes are programming properly but the lights flash when you lock or unlock, and the module clicks 3 times when you try to start the truck but no go. I purchased a 30amp relay just in case but am unsure of how to wire this thing up and what needs it the starter or the ignition wires. Any help would be greatly appreciated Im tired of this darn truck starter. This is a diesel so what am I missing?

if you have not done the tach programing it may not attempt to start.

your tach wire should not be a constant 12 volts.

on a DMM set for AC it should read from 3 to 5 volts and change as the rpm change

your truck should have a customer access harness right above the e-brake around the main wire harness behind the fuse box for tach and other wires there is a label with wire colors and functions.

you should notice them the are just taped on the ends.

on you vehicle it should be GREEN / WHITE

posted_image

on a diesel there is a blue/green accessory wire in the main ignition harness that should have power for the glow plugs

12 pin low current

also i would hook up the horn. this is used by some remote starter to signal programing features. Dk Blue At Right of Steering Column in a Big Gray Conn. Negative should not need a relay

The pink wire you could use but i would program it for the 10 secs easier.

You have to use the Gray wire for hood pin it is required for entering program mode. In you customer access harness there are 4 wires that go out in to the engine compartment so you will not have to run a wire out under the hood just use one of them.

you will notice the wires under the hood drivers side on harness attached to top of firewall.

Green wire will not be used unless you what turbo timer mode then you will need to add a momentary switch to it to ground (a push button switch)

white do not hook to switch it is a positive Brown wire In Driver's Kick Panel or Behind Fuse Box also make sure you do not have it set for negative.

you can use the brown wire for the third accessory with a relay Accessory 2 RED / Black or Accessory 3 Blue/Green (for Diesel Glow Plugs) both in the ignition harness

as for the RED / white look above

6 pin high current

pink/white use this for one of the accessory wire Accessory 2 RED / Black or Accessory 3 Blue/Green (for Diesel Glow Plugs) both in the ignition harness

Pink should be on the RED / Green Ignition harness

gray use on the Gray / YELLOW in the Ignition harness

Brown use on the Green in the Ignition harrness

you do not need the CS-865-RKE the 3 pin low current harness is for the door locks

Green is lock and the Lock wire is WHITE/ Red In Driver's Kick Panel or in Driver's Door Boot Negative

blue is Unlock and the unlock wire is BLACK/ White In Driver's Kick Panel or in Driver's Door Boot Negative

you should not have to use relays but it never hurts. if you do the red wire will give them power it you don't you will not use it.

you may be able to splice into the CS-865-RKE wire it is using for door lock.

The turbo mode is a programing feature you program no wire to hook up

Hope this helps

The yellow black wire does not get hooked up to the ignition barrel. This wire is a negative output which is used to activate a bypass module which you may need for this truck. The RED / white tach wire can get hooked up to a coil or fuel injector on the vehicle and you will also need to program this wire to make sure that it does its job properly. To program this wire, you can take a look at the "Tach Programming" section in the installation manual.

In the high-current plug, the Pink wire gets hooked up to the primary ignition wire at the ignition barrel. The Pink/White will most likely need to get hooked up to a second ignition wire in the ignition harness. The gray wire gets hooked up to the accessory control circuit and the brown wire gets hooked up to the starter circuit. Check in the wiring schematic for the vehicle to see how many ignition and accessory wires that there are on the vehicle that need to be powered up. You may need to add external relays to power them from the remote start system.

On the three pin low current plug, the Blue wire and the green wires are you door lock and unlock control wires. The Blue wire gets hooked up to the unlock wire in the truck and the green wire gets hooked up to the lock wire in the truck. Check to make sure which method of door lock hook up that your truck takes whether it is positive, negative or reverse polarity.

Thank You

The post above is from a crimestopper rep. but even still the truck won't crank. Is there possibly 2 tach wire in the cluster at the park brake and I have the wrong one because when I crank the truck with the key and rev the motor the meter reading is constant and never changes. I can do a complete run down again of how it is wired right now to let you have a general idea. Also the brown wire at the light switch is a negative wire until the lights are turned on is this correct. I know I'm being a pain in the arse but I bought this kit without the money to have a professional install it and I put the keyless entry on myself on this truck and the unit is suppose to lock and unlock but it won't all that happens is the little box clicks. Does the remote start system need to see that Tue truck is in park before it works. I clueless to my issue.

for the tach at the customer access you can look at the tag that there should tell wire color and function. are you using the AC or Frequency setting of the DMM. if not you will not get the right reading. some of the wires look close to the same colors in there. make sure you get the GREEN / WHITE in that customers access. i have used this many times in the past wire success every time for tach.

if thats not the one then look on the tag on them for the right color it will say tach color

you only have one ignition wire so on the pink/white move the jumper to the accessory setting and use it for one of the accessory so you can eliminate one extra relay

as for finding the parking lights wire. behind the switch ground one end of your DMM (set for 12v or 20v DC) and them probe the back of the switch at the wire you want to test. It should read 0v. then turn the switch to park lights then you should see voltage. turn it off you should lose the voltage back to 0v.

for the doorlock are you using relays or are you using the negative trigger straight off the Remote starter?

it most likely will not crank until you get a properly learned tach signal.

if you can not find the tach signal in the customer harness. i know its there i did a 2006 about a month ago. you can resort to the fuel injector. but i doubt you will find a coil. (diesels don't have Spark plugs).

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I will look closer for the tach wire and for the pink and white wire I have 2 ignition wires but the system itself has no jumpers or relays. Finding the park lights will be easy and I was also told I did not have to have a bypass for the key for an 06 model. As for the locks I was told the current kit would operate them. The keyless entry system I took off was a crimestopper CS-865-RKE and it worked without relays so who knows. If I did install relays I have 2 30AMP 5wire and 2 40Amp 4wire relays and 2 fuse holders but how do I wire them in, as for what colors are for what. I know for a fact the 6 pin high current is wired both reds to the battery, grey to grey and yellow on steering column, brown to green on steering column, pink to red and green on steering column, pink and white to yellow Acc on steering column.

12 pin low current

yellow and white hooks to horn got this one
Black is ground got this one
Yellow black not used
Tan cannot find dome light wire for this and does it require a relay
Green is not here it is a red and black wire with an inline fuse where does this hook?
Grey is the hood pin got this one
Pink not used on 2006 models
Purple hooked to brake switch unsure of the color
Orange not hooked up
Orange and black not hooked up
White not hooked up if it needs to be where at
Red and white hooked to green and white but I need to check this for volts

3 pin for locks this was the aftermarket kit that is mention above.
Blue is hooked to negative for unlock
Red to 12v constant but do I need a relay and how to wire also 1 or 2 relays
Green is hooked to negative for lock

This unit has no jumper pins just wires so what to do there. The green mentioned above is red and black with an inline fuse so where does this go. It says start activation negative on the diagram.

That's where I'm at so far. Thanks again.

I'm also going to double check my programming. This may not be correct.

their is just one ignition and three accessories for your diesel. just did one this is a link to the sheet i used. it worked fine and on the first try.

2006 Ford F250 Wiring Diagrams

for the door locks if you did not have relays before you should not need them now. just hook the outputs straight to wire.

for the dome light it should be ORANGE / Lt Green behind the light switch and its negative should not need relay.

is this the manual for your manual

your brake light will be at the switch will be green

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Ok I have checked every wire under the dash at the consumer access panel and none read 3 to5 volts and change with rpm. The green and white is constant 12 volts and the only other wire is the Orange and red but it reads a constant 5volts. So do I hook up to the crank position sensor or is there a better wire. I can't even see the fuel injectors and is there a wire located in the control box under the hood that will work. I have a drawing for all the wires in the consumer access pwnep but none make sejce. Also even if the truck won't start why won't the blower or Acc come on when the start button is pushed. Also do I need a tach inverted since the green end white wire is a constant 12 volts and what would a tech inverted do. Thanks again.

DO YOU HAVE YOUR DMM SET TO AC (ALTERNATING CURRENT)???

OR DO YOU HAVE IT SET TO DC (DIRECT CURRENT)???

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we had it on DC current not alternating current

check the wire again with it set to AC and i bet you the Green\white will work.

WOW did not read all the posts this it the forth one i said to use AC on the DMM.

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I will try that but will it still not read constant volts. When I use the tach programming function it never gives me the return beep or flashing lights. I mean how does the module know if I check it ac or dc but hey I'm out of options so I will check it out. Thank

OK I checked the wire on AC and it jumped around from 2 to 3 but still did not program to start. Let me make sure I have this correct I do not use the pink wire for the glow plugs which is hot at ign. I also am programming it for tach mode, diesel glow plug delay 10 seconds but not using the pink wire. why would it not even try to start or the acc come on? the fuses are good and when I press the start button it just sits there and does nothing.

is if flashing the parking lights three time on a failed attempt of starting

or how many flash do you get

If the system flashes the parking lights one to three times and doesn’t attempt remote, it means the following:
1 Parking Light Flash = Problem with Brake Switch.
2 Parking Light Flashes = Problem with Hood Switch.
3 Parking Light Flashes = Valet Service Mode.
7 Parking Light Flashes = Manual Transmission Error.

trouble shooting from you installation guide

TROUBLESHOOTING: “BEFORE YOU CALL” SECTION
UNIT WILL NOT ATTEMPT TO START (KEYLESS ENTRY FUNCTIONS NORMALLY):
The unit is in Valet mode. Turn IGN ON, press and hold valet/programming button for 5-6 seconds then turn key off. Unit
is now out of valet mode and should remote start. If optional LED is installed, then it will be on solid when in Valet.

UNIT FLASHES LIGHTS ONCE AND WILL NOT ATTEMPT A START:
The unit senses a fault at the Brake (Purple wire is active) or the Hood is OPEN (Gray wire grounded). This is a safety
feature of the unit. Check installation for faults and make sure hood is closed and latched and brake wire is not active.

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that wire will work for the tach.

if you are in valet mode it might not learn the tach

you will not use the glow plug wire with the 10 sec timer

if the acc is not coming on you may have something wrong.

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Ok gonna go check for valet mode and check the brake switch. I was told to hook the grey wire from the 6 pin harness to the grey and yellow on the ignition harness.

you have one ignition and three accessory wires for that vehicles

here is what i would have do with the installation

2006 ford

it does not have to make exactly but should be close

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the 2006 ford pdf file would not open. So heres the seal the brake switch is correct only has 12v when applied, the hood switch is ok making when needed, the grey wire for acc has no power and none of the wires have power on first key turn and then loses power when cranking, so now Im sitting here again looking at a pretty box but it wont do anything. Does not even attempt to start, and the door locks wont even work with the 3 wire set up. I have power when the lock and unlock buttons are pushed but the locks do nothing. This thing can be this freaking hard to do.

it opens just fine on this end. you can try to download it from this site direct

https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/downloads.asp?srch=all&term=2006

file 2006 Ford F250-350 Crime stopper installation

i forgot to mark the parking lights wire its brown at switch positive

the power with key is not as important as power when remote started

if you meter at the six pin harness at the do you have 12 volts at both power wires?

get it to start first then deal with the door locks

to me it sound like there is not power

when remote started do yo get power at the ignition wire of the remote starter, does it stay on the entire time the remotes is attempting to start?

the accessories of the remote stater do you have power when first activated and then drop off?

after the accessories drops off does the starter wire get power?

this is what you should test

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OK i have looked at the diagram and the only thing missing is the relay which I can add. The wires at the 6 pin harness all have the correct power at the correct time except the grey wire now keep in mind this is with the truck started with the key not the remote because the remote will not start the truck. When the remote is pressed all I get is 3 ticks from the control module and no power to the pink, pink/white, or grey. I went thru and programmed the system like I was told but still nothing when the remote is hit. Once you turn the key to the On position without starting the grey, pink, and pink and white all have power, start the truck with the key the starter wire kicks in and kicks out just as needed. It almost seems as if the module is not seeing something it needs to because all my wires are correct according to everyone here with the exception of the relay and the tach wire which I am going with you and saying the GREEN / WHITE is it because you know more than I do on this. So any suggestions as to what the module may be missing? The arm and disarm for the locks activates the led and horn as well as when you go into program mode the horn is activated. Confused you could say that? Just curious what is the relay for and what is the yellow and black hooked to the grey going to do? Im just trying to learn something now. I mean I installed the keyless entry before actuators and all and now I cant even get those 2 wire actuators to work.

one other question why do the pictures read 6 cylinder set at 500 rpm for the tach wire when my truck idles at 900 to 1000

That comment (6 cyl) is for a different brand of remote start just ignore it the wire is right.

that extra relay for the blue/green wire is for the glow plugs to work.

hooking the relay up that way it will only be active when the remote starter is running and the accessory is on from the remote starter. it will not turn on do to the key.

i still think that you are in valet mode. if nothing will come on for the remote start

the three clicks sound like its trying to flash the parking lights

where do you have the unit grounded to not the dash i hope

if you do go to the body in the kick panel and scratch off the paint to get a good ground

ps if you are trying to test the outputs of the remote starter you can not use the key this will turn everything on and will look good.

you need to see what the Remote starter is doing not the key

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Sorry for the late reply I am working and trying to fix this. Ok to start with yes I have it grounded to the dash but have a wire ran from the battery which I can make the new ground. The three clicks never blink the lights so I don't know what is up with that. I have the red and black wire with the fuse link in it ran to the brown wire at the light switch as instructed. As for being in valet mode I can press the button for 5 seconds and the red led comes on, I then turn the key off and repeat the process to come out of valet mode. I have also went into program mode and reset everything back to factory default option #23 and tried again but nothing. Everything on the programming menu seems to change with the remote except option #1 this is for tach or tachless. By default it is set for tachless and while in program mode the #1 lock option to change this to tach will not register bit you press the #2 unlock button and you hear it click 2 times. Not sure what's up with that. Also I did find out that I have to have relays for the door locks so that's why they won't work the old system I had the relays were built in so I guess I need to buy some relays unless the old keyless entry can be used with this new system. And if I have not already asked this how do I wire the relay for negative type locks. And I assume 1 relay per lock.

jeepsrcool wrote:

The three clicks never blink the lights so I don't know what is up with that. I have the red and black wire with the fuse link in it ran to the brown wire at the light switch as instructed.

Ok i must have the wrong diagram for your remotes starter i show the White wire with the 10 amp fuse on the 12 pin low current plug should go to the brown for the park lights.

is this RED / black on the 6 pin or the 12 pin?

jeepsrcool wrote:

As for being in valet mode I can press the button for 5 seconds and the red led comes on, I then turn the key off and repeat the process to come out of valet mode. I have also went into program mode and reset everything back to factory default option #23 and tried again but nothing.

Lets get the parking light working so you can see the conformation on the parking lights. then address this problem.

does your horn honk the 5 times? to let you know you enter programing?

jeepsrcool wrote:

Everything on the programming menu seems to change with the remote except option #1 this is for tach or tachless. By default it is set for tachless and while in program mode the #1 lock option to change this to tach will not register bit you press the #2 unlock button and you hear it click 2 times. Not sure what's up with that.

To switch the tach to option one you have to do this instruction not the programing instructions.

TACH PROGRAMMING:
1. Open hood (or ground Gray hood pin wire if no hood pin is installed.)
2. Red White wire should be connected to a valid Tach source.
3. Start engine with key. (Pink wire must be connected!)
4. Press program button 5 times, then wait for 5 light flashes and/or 5 horn honks.
5. Push program button once more. (You must get one light flash and/or honk after button is pressed.) This unit is
now at option #1-Tach Learning.
6. Press the #1 Lock Button on remote transmitter. The unit will read the Tach source and flash the lights and or
honk once for program confirmation. (On RS1300DP II models without remote transmitters, press the brake pedal
in this step.)
7. If lights do not flash for confirmation, then try another tach source or try the tach finder to locate another wire

jeepsrcool wrote:

Also I did find out that I have to have relays for the door locks so that's why they won't work the old system I had the relays were built in so I guess I need to buy some relays unless the old keyless entry can be used with this new system. And if I have not already asked this how do I wire the relay for negative type locks. And I assume 1 relay per lock.

i would get something like the 451m off eBay to make it easier for the door locks. (it will have both relays) can get it for 7 dollars. Ebay Listing this will plug directly into you door lock plug on the Main Model.

on the 451m doorlock relay
plug the 3 pin in to the main module.
ground the purple wire,
then attach the GREEN/ black to the lock wire of the truck
then attach the blue/black to the unlock wire of the truck

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The white is a 12volt positive no fuse coming off the 12 pin harness and the red and black is a fused 12v negative coming off the 12 pin harness. The horn works correctly and I will follow the tach programming steps listed here. I assume I need to read tach and also timed start or is it tachless and timed start. Also the tach wire is the green and white wire in the consumer access panel. The tach learning mode will not see this as a valid source but with a DMM set to AC the current runs 2 to 4. Should I be raving the motor during this tach learning process and what is the wait time before trying the program mode again. Thanks for your help.

Also the red and white wire is my tach coming off the 12 pin harness and I assume you mean the pink wire that needs to be hooked up is off the 6 pin high current. The pink wire on the 12 pin low current is 12v positive for the glow plugs and I was told not to use this wire but to set it at 10sec in programming mode and also set the truck for timed crank. If its needed where does it connect.

Yes, they are talking about the pink 6 pin harness

i did get that tach learning from the manual i have.

you may want to look at yours for the tach programing method. they may have changed from the manual i have it for the rs-4

if you are not doing the right proceduce for the tach it will not work so before you switch the wire make sure by looking in your installation manual that it is being done right.

you do not need to use the pink from the 12 pin.

check you jumper for the parking light make sure its set to positive not negative, you have positive parking lights.

also if that still does not work the fuse might be internal and try the white positive and see if that works for the parking lights

how many amp fuse does that RED / black have

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I looked at my programming and its the same as yours also the red and black is a 10amp 12 volt positive or ground wire fuse is external and the white wire for the parking lights is positive 10 amps internal fuse but has (+ or-) beside the white wire also.

Crimestopper changed the parking lite circuit with the inception of the R-1, R-2, R-3, Rg4g2 etc series-- the white wire has no fuse in it and is wire to either the positive (+12v) light switch wire, or the negative light switch wire- there are no internal jumper inside brain anymore-- You source the parking light input with the RED / black wire which has the red 10 amp inline fuse in it-- if you are wired into the 12v light switch wire- then source the RED / blk with +12v. If you are wired into the (-) negative park light wire- then simply ground the RED / blk- Pretty easy once you understand it-- the RED / blk is an input to brain, not an output- like the white wire--it is confusing, since they moved the inline fuse off the white wire. Most Rseries kits come with a special note about this in the box with the instructions...

Wire your RED / blk to a constant battery +12v source (I use the R/S feed wire) and hook your white wire to the brown light wire at light switch- and it will work- The brain box has an internal relay to turn on off parking lites- it no longer cares if signal is positive or negative.....

You can also determine valet mode by the fact the red light (external) is always on, not flashing.

Vehicle should crank whether or not a tach signal is seen or programmed-- it just may not start everytime. I always attach tach wire last, after all else has been tested- diesel or not...if you are still not cranking, you are either in valet mode, --- 3 clicks suggest you have brake light (+12v on purple wire) always on, or gray hood pin wire grounded. Does your brown wire from R/S put out +12v when it should? Is your brown wire wired to the proper starter wire that shows +12v only during starter crank with the key?

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Brcidd - Engineer That Does Remote Starter Installs on the side.

Thanks for the Clarification brcidd. i do not work with Crimestopper all that much and was using what i could download off there site to help.

in the guide i was using indicated 3 flashes was in valet mode

it is possible that your brake wire is seeing 12volt all the time. (if you wired to wrong side of switch) should only see 12 volt when brake is pressed.

make sure you hood pin is not seeing ground when hood is closed.

Thanks again for clarification brcidd

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ok heres an update I now have the headlights blinking while in program mode, the horn works properly, the brake switch is correct 0 volts until pressed. I now have the system grounded to a solid ground and the system when I press the start button clicks once waits the default time and clicks again 2 more times same motion. I was told to check my connections without the key and I have no power on the pink wire which is connected to the red and green, starter wire is correct, the grey for the acc also has no power when the remote is pressed. so i either need to figure out why my pink wire has no power when the remote is pressed or find another location for this wire. Both pink and pink and white should only be hooked to acc wires not constant 12v. Also I never did get the parking lights to flash only the headlights is this a problem? Also when you remove the module from the car disconnecting all wiring does it lose its programming? And last I need to program #1 for tach, #15 for preset, #18 for timed,#19 for 10 sec for timed start. Thanks

check the fuses in of the remote starter one might be blown

did you check the hood pin two flashes indicate the hood pin problem, after programing unhook it from the pin switch see if that works if it does readjust it and hook it back up.

the pink wire of the RS should go to the Ignition of the Truck, which should be GREEN/ red.

the pink/white i believe you are using for an accessory.

and no they pink and pink/white should not be hooked to constant 12v.

that's what the red wires are for.

as for the headlights flashing,check the wire make sure the wire only haves power when parking lights are turned on. sound like you might have the headlights wire and not parking lights

most will not lose programing when power is removed.

I opened up the remote starter module and there are no fuses on the inside. The hood switch works perfect and I have the pink wire hooked to the red and green. I will double check the ignition to make sure it is the correct wire. Also I still cannot get the #1 function tach or tachless to register tach. It will read tachless when the remote is pressed but not tach when the lock button is pressed. Any clue on that? I will double check my wires for the lights that was pretty simple and also the wire for the pink wire. I assume I should test this with the key since I have no power now.

The fuses to check are the two 30 amp green fuses on your two red input wires-no need to open brain box- do you have BOTH red input to your R/S wires attached to +12v constant battery power? at ignition switch wires is usally fine. There are two input circuits to your R/S brain and the pink output wire is fed by one of these...if you don't have power, then one of these two red wires is having a bad connection- check at brain box-- see if both red wires show +12v battery voltage at all times. You are soldering...right?.

The parking light white wre from R/S should be soldered into the brown wire at the light switch.

I'd use the tach finder mode to find the tach wire- only after the R/S starts the truck and tests good first-- again-- do tach set-up last-- it is NOT the cause of your system not starting.

My chart shows your primary ignition wire on the truck as Red with light green tracer.. solder the pink wire to this.

Programming is never lost with loss of input voltage- it is in non-volatile memory once prgrammed.

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Brcidd - Engineer That Does Remote Starter Installs on the side.

I have the 2 red wires hooked up directly to the battery and last I checked both fuses were good. No I have not been soldering these wires but have been using some type of wire clamp. I would agree that soldering would be a better connection. Should I separate the 2 red wires making one feed from the battery and one from ignition source being the yellow constant 12v.

Are you getting 12 volts at both red wires at the Main module six pin connector?

Getting good current on both red fused wires and also when I turn the key on the pink shows current just not without the key.

Ok I now have the parking lights working both red wires good current but the pink still has no current when the remote is pressed. The parking lights stay on for a few seconds I guess but at least I seem to be getting closer. Also where on drivers door or kick panel did someone tell me to hook the brown up for the dome light. Next step is where ever you tell me to go.

Please don't abandon me I'm getting closer and closer

The pink ignition wire has to be powered when remote started- This is the big pink wire that is in the connector with all the other big wires (red, brown, gray, pink, pink/white) not the little pink wire.

Just for grins- intitiate remote starter- then turn ignition on (with key) as it cranks- see if it starts.....

If your big pink wire is not powered during R/S, then that is your issue- and could be a bad brain-- if you are not using the pink/white - you could wire it in instead of pink (its default is for ignition hot) and try it again.

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Brcidd - Engineer That Does Remote Starter Installs on the side.

Ok I will try that. Also I will check the pink and white wire. Thanks please don't give up on me yet.

Well I tried the pink and white wire but still no power on either pink or pink and white. I tried to remote start the truck then turn the key on but that didn't work either. I have power everywhere but at the pink wires. I even wired in the relay as noted by one of you and it made no difference. I had the driver door lock working manually at one time but that all went too. I only have 2 wires from the door locks a green and a blue i grounded on and touched the hot with the other and the lock would work reverse the wires and the lock would open but then it just quit.

Pink and Pink/white are ignition hots when remote started-- if they have no power and you are sure you have power at the brain at the back of the two red wires, then you either are not plugged in all the way at that big connector, or you have a defective unit.....

You are sure you go into remote start mode correct? The parking lights come on solid when you press start button, they go off about 3 seconds later while starter cranks, etc......

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Brcidd - Engineer That Does Remote Starter Installs on the side.