remote start in trailblazer won’t crank

Vehicle: 2003 Chevy Trailblazer
System: Audiovox Prestige Aps620n

I removed an old Audiovox keyless entry system and installed a Audiovox Prestige Aps620n remote start/keyless entry system. I reused the old Passlock II bypass module for the locks, but didn't have wiring diagram for it, so I bought a cheap Bulldog Security remote start (RS) bypass from Checker auto parts.

At first I had a tach issue because the RS system would not learn the tach from PCM pin 49, so I used the blue/black wire leading into the harness on the top back portion of the engine. This change fixed my tach issue.

The only thing I can do with the RS is start the car with the key, activate the RS, then pull the key out of the ignition and it will still run.

I'm using the following column wires:
12 volts- RED / white( 40A)
Starter- Yellow
Ignition - Pink
2nd ignition- White
Accessory - Orange

Note: I'm not using a T-Harness, just tapping into wires directly.

I have checked for power at the starter relay under the hood and get it when the RS is trying to start the car. According to the Chilton's manual, the ground pin of that relay comes from the PCM. I'm guessing I'm not making the PCM happy and therefore it does not provide the ground to short out the start relay.

Any help would be appreciated.

Thanks.

Need a little information to try and pinpoint this...

1. Did you solder your connections?

2. What bypass exactly? Is it data based or resistance based?

3. When you set it into pit-stop mode, do any of the warning lights in the dash illuminate?

I am pretty sure it's your bypass module but the other questions will allow us to eliminate other causes.

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Installer, IT support, and FFL. I need less hobbies.

i am thinking that the bypass is just for the doorlocks and not a passlock 2 bypass

would not need to bypass passlock 2 for the door locks to work with a keyless entry

sorry did not read that you bought a differnt bypass from bulldog


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1. Did you solder your connections?
ANSWER: No, I used the plastic connectors that clamp onto the outside of the wire (Quick Splice connectors).

2. What bypass exactly? Is it data based or resistance based?
ANSWER: Resistance based

3. When you set it into pit-stop mode, do any of the warning lights in the dash illuminate?
ANSWER: No

only thing i can think or right now is that the bypass is not programed right

or the ground while running wire might not be hooked up.

most people here would advise too solder all wire connections not sure i would trust the splice connectors for the main harness wire.

i would check your starter wire connection too it might not be making contact with starter wire of the vehicle

The ground while running is hooked up but I never checked to see if it is actually producing a ground while running. I think I will check it and the other connections to make sure the quick connectors are making good contact.

Solder...Solder...Solder.  No t-taps, No scotch locks, No plastic connectors, No, No... Solder ALL connections.  This coming from a DIY Dude!!!

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solder only !!

those plastic connectors are going to give you so many problems down the road.

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Ted
2nd Year Tier 1 Medical School
Still installing as a hobby...pays for groceries
Compustar Expert

I pulled the column cover off and found I had connected the RS bypass module to the wrong small gauge yellow wire. I fixed it, checked my other connections then reset the RS bypass module. I went through the resistance relearn process and still not crank.

Not to long after that, the "Security" light in the cluster came on solid. When solidly lit, the Passlock system is disabled, so I activate the RS and it started the car. Now I know for sure the bypass or a connection from the bypass is a problem. I unplugged the bypass to see if the "Security" light would turn off and it did.

Now I just need to figure out what the issue is, but I should be able to now that I know for certain it is related to the RS bypass. I also plan to solder the connections as soon as I can.