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viper 5901 in 2003 honda civic coupe

Printed From: the12volt.com
Forum Name: Car Security and Convenience
Forum Discription: Car Alarms, Keyless Entries, Remote Starters, Immobilizer Bypasses, Sensors, Door Locks, Window Modules, Heated Mirrors, Heated Seats, etc.
URL: https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp?tid=125623
Printed Date: March 29, 2024 at 9:04 AM


Topic: viper 5901 in 2003 honda civic coupe

Posted By: raigen18
Subject: viper 5901 in 2003 honda civic coupe
Date Posted: January 12, 2011 at 1:20 AM

So i'm planning on installing a viper 5901 myself but would like to know if I have all the correct wiring down so far.

I am unsure of what the dome light output is for. Is this the wire I need to hook up so that the dome light turns on/off when the car is armed/disarmed?

Also, what bypass module would be best for my car? I am planning on getting the DEI 555I. If I get the XK05 bypass and use it in D2D mode, which wires would I not need to hook up on the R/S?

Thanks for your help.


➢ Primary harness (H1), 12-pin connector

H1/1 RED / WHITE (-) 200mA TRUNK RELEASE OUTPUT – NOT USED

H1/2 RED (+)12v CONSTANT INPUT – WHITE [ignition harness or battery]

H1/3 BROWN (+) SIREN OUTPUT – RED [on siren]

H1/4 WHITE/ BROWN LIGHT FLASH ISOLATION WIRE - PIN 87a of onboard relay – NOT USED

H1/5 BLACK (-) CHASSIS GROUND - GROUND

H1/6 VIOLET (+) DOOR TRIGGER INPUT – NOT USED

H1/7 BLUE (-) TRUNK PIN/ INSTANT TRIGGER INPUT – NOT USED

H1/8 GREEN (-) DOOR TRIGGER INPUT – GREEN + GREEN/ RED [alarm plug]

H1/9 BLACK/ WHITE (-) 200mA DOME LIGHT OUTPUT – [unsure]

H1/10 WHITE/ BLUE (-) REMOTE START/ TURBO TIMER ACTIVATION INPUT – NOT USED

H1/11 WHITE PARKING LIGHT OUTPUT – BLUE [alarm plug]

H1/12 ORANGE (-) 500mA GROUND WHEN ARMED OUTPUT – NOT USED


➢ Heavy gauge remote start, (H3) 10-pin connector

H3/1 PINK (+) IGNITION 1 INPUT/OUTPUT – BLACK / YELLOW [ignition]

H3/2 RED / WHITE (+) FUSED (30A) IGNITION 2 / FLEX RELAY INPUT 87 – WHITE [ignition]

H3/3 ORANGE (+) ACCESSORY OUTPUT – BLACK/ RED [ignition]

H3/4 VIOLET (+) STARTER OUTPUT (CAR SIDE OF THE STARTER KILL) – BLACK/ WHITE [ignition]

H3/5 GREEN (+) STARTER INPUT (KEY SIDE OF THE STARTER KILL WIRE) – BLACK/ WHITE [ignition]

H3/6 RED (+) FUSED (30A) IGNITION 1 INPUT – WHITE [ignition]

H3/7 PINK/WHITE (+) IGNITION 2 / FLEX RELAY OUTPUT – NOT USED

H3/8 PINK/BLACK (+) FLEX RELAY INPUT 87A key side (if required) of FLEX

RELAY - NOT USED

H3/9 RED / BLACK (+) FUSED (30A) ACCESSORY/STARTER INPUT – WHITE [ignition]

H3/10 NC (no connection) – NOT USED

NC

➢ Remote start input, 5-pin connector

1 BLACK/ WHITE (-) NEUTRAL SAFETY SWITCH INPUT - GROUND

2 VIOLET/WHITE TACHOMETER INPUT WIRE – BLUE [passenger side of battery; 2 pin plug]

3 BROWN (+) BRAKE SHUTDOWN INPUT WIRE ¬ - WHITE/ BLACK [switch @ brake pedal]

4 GRAY N/O or N/C (-) HOOD PIN SWITCH INPUT – hood pin

5 BLUE/WHITE (-) 200 mA 2ND STATUS/REAR DEFOGGER OUTPUT – NOT USED


➢ Door lock harness, 3-pin connector

1 BLUE (+) LOCK (-) UNLOCK OUTPUT - WHITE/ GREEN [gray plug above driver kick panel]

2 EMPTY NOT USED

3 GREEN (-) LOCK (+) UNLOCK OUTPUT – WHITE/ BLUE [gray plug above driver kick panel]



Replies:

Posted By: kreg357
Date Posted: January 12, 2011 at 6:37 AM

Wiring looks good.

The PKH34 bypass module will give you the most bang for the buck.  It will go D2D with your Viper and save
you 3 wire connections between the modules.  It comes loaded with firmware unlike the XK05 which might need
to be flashed with the correct firmware.

The dome light supervision connection might not be necessary.  Does the dome light come on when you unlock
the car with the factory remotes?  Then you won't need it.

The two door trigger wires going to the Viper H1/8 wire should be diode isolated with 1N4001 diodes.

Most wire guide lists show an ACC2 wire, WHITE/ Red at the ignition switch harness.  Verify this with a
DMM.  You can program the Viper to support this ( Menu 3, Item 8, Opt 2 ).  Connect H3/7 to the WHITE/ Red
wire.

Remember to set the Viper Parking Light Jumper/Fuse to (-) for your H1/11 connection. 

There is a bit of Viper programming to do.  Auto/Manual Trans & Tach sensing come to mind.



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Soldering is fun!




Posted By: howie ll
Date Posted: January 12, 2011 at 4:59 PM
Dome light supervision is totally unnecessary with the following cars that I know of:
All BMWs,
All Hondas,
All Toyotas,
All Audi BMW.
All of the above from about 1998, when you close the door, the dome light stays on for up to one minute but when you LOCK the doors it goes out immediately.
Also unlocking the doors PRIOR to opening will turn on the dome light.

-------------
Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.




Posted By: howie ll
Date Posted: January 12, 2011 at 5:11 PM
Also if you drop the instrument gauges (takes about 2 minutes) you can get to the rear of the door open and trunk open indicator lights. That will eliminate the alarm giving you a pre-warn which I guarantee you will get if you connect the green door trigger to the alarm plug (I think!) also whilst you're there you can connect your tach wire to the blue going to the tacho in the instrument panel, save you going out under the hood.
If auto, don't ground the BLACK/ white, connect it to the reverse light feed, switch under gear selector, I THINK (can't remember) it's GREEN/ YELLOW.
If manual transmission, connect that BLACK/ white to the parking brake switch, or the parking brake indicator light, again behind the instrument panel. Both of the above are MUCH safer than simply grounding the BLACK/ white.
In fact if you're really good you could probably loose the 5901 ECU behind or to the side of that panel, makes the whole install MUCH easier, quicker and better and stealthed from a casual glance.

-------------
Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.




Posted By: raigen18
Date Posted: January 12, 2011 at 6:33 PM
Yea the dome light automatically turns off and on with the stock FOB remote so I guess there is no need to hook up that wire.

Also, how reliable is using D2D mode? There are a few stories of people who have been unsuccessful in using this mode and that W2W is a more fool proof way to hook up the immobilizer bypass module.

howie: When you say that the alarm will give a pre-warn if the door trigger wire is connected to the green wire on the factory alarm plug, could this be the case only if a diode was not used for the door trigger wires?




Posted By: howie ll
Date Posted: January 12, 2011 at 6:48 PM
If you look carefully, see if the dome shuts down immediately on looking or takes about 3 seconds. If that's the case, then it just might trigger the Viper, I've been caught out by a European Viper clone (made in the same factory) that kept telling me the door was open. The dash displays (doors and trunk) extinguish immediately. However so might the factory alarm, best tested with a 12volt test light, probe end to 12 volt constant and other end to the wire you picked, see if that light goes out immediately the doors are shut before locking the car.
Just being more thorough based on experience with these cars. Also I think you might have more than one ignition and or accessory you will need to wire up the pink white and connect the RED / black or your orange accessory to RED / black won't work.

-------------
Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.




Posted By: kreg357
Date Posted: January 12, 2011 at 8:01 PM
PKH34 in D2D mode should work OK.  There isn't too much going on, just GWR turning on the bypass.  No data going back and forth.  It's only 3 more wires to connect (+12v constant, Chassis ground and (-) Status Output / Ground When Running ) if you want to play it safe.  If you do go D2D, don't forget the jumpers on the side of the Viper.

-------------
Soldering is fun!




Posted By: raigen18
Date Posted: January 13, 2011 at 2:48 AM
Also, does anyone know what color wiring is for the rear defogger? All the vehicle wiring diagrams i've looked at don't seem to mention the rear defogger wiring color and location. It would be nice to be able to turn on the rear defogger using the remote.




Posted By: howie ll
Date Posted: January 13, 2011 at 3:02 AM
That's what your DMM is for.

-------------
Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.




Posted By: howie ll
Date Posted: January 13, 2011 at 3:10 AM
Use your DMM to find the wire that goes to 12v+ at your rear window when you turn the HRW on.
Trace it back to the front then:-
Cut it, use a timed aux set for 10 mins (or whatever the max is on the aux outputs). Use a 5 pin relay, bosch style.
Aux to 85.
12V+ constant fused at 20amps to 86 and 87.
Window side to 30.
Switch side to 87a.

-------------
Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.




Posted By: raigen18
Date Posted: January 13, 2011 at 1:55 PM
Thanks, i'll try that.




Posted By: raigen18
Date Posted: February 24, 2011 at 10:16 AM
Finally got everything wired and working. Right now I have the 507m tilt sensor hooked up to the blue instant trigger wire of the alarm but haven't hooked up the trunk trigger. Would it work if I hooked up the trunk trigger and 507m tilt sensor to the same blue instant trigger wire?




Posted By: t&t tech
Date Posted: February 24, 2011 at 5:29 PM
Yes, diode isolate.

-------------
JW.ORG.
COMMIT YOUR WAY TO JEHOVAH AND HE WILL ACT IN YOUR BEHALF.
PSALMS 37:5




Posted By: raigen18
Date Posted: February 24, 2011 at 8:27 PM
t&t tech wrote:

Yes, diode isolate.


Also, would the same icon and message appear on my remote if either the tilt or trunk sensor is triggered? If so, is there a way to make it so that a different icon and warning message shows up for each sensor?




Posted By: raigen18
Date Posted: February 25, 2011 at 2:47 PM
Got the trunk trigger hooked up and both the tilt and trunk triggers show up as the same icon... makes sense since the instant trigger wire on the remote starter was for the trunk.




Posted By: t&t tech
Date Posted: February 25, 2011 at 3:46 PM
Yes, you are correct.

-------------
JW.ORG.
COMMIT YOUR WAY TO JEHOVAH AND HE WILL ACT IN YOUR BEHALF.
PSALMS 37:5




Posted By: raigen18
Date Posted: February 26, 2011 at 9:14 AM
So I seem to be having a problem with my remote starter. On very cold days (-15 degrees C~), the car will crank continuously but won't start almost as if there is no fuel reaching the injectors but would start every time if I had the key in the ignition (just plugged in); this led me to suspect it was the bypass issue. The part that is confusing me is that when the car does not start, the green immobilizer key icon on the dashboard is not blinking indicating that the bypass module seems to be working...or is it?

Just this morning the remote start function did not work and all the car did was crank but would not start. I tried the remote start another 3-4 tries with the same result. As soon as I put the key into the ignition, the remote start function works perfectly and did so for the next few tries (until I removed the key).

I am currently using tach sense so I don't think there is any issue with that. All my connections to the ignition harness are soldered too.




Posted By: howie ll
Date Posted: February 26, 2011 at 10:09 AM
Use a wired tach, works better at low temps., blue to rear of instrument panel or should be in engine bay loom terminating in a grey plug taped to the loom behind the suspension strut. Don't forget to reprogramme your unit.

-------------
Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.




Posted By: raigen18
Date Posted: February 26, 2011 at 10:45 AM
Thanks for the reply. I mean't to say that I am using the tach wire and have the remote starter programmed to use tach mode and not the default option virtual tach.




Posted By: raigen18
Date Posted: February 26, 2011 at 1:15 PM
Pretty certain it's the PKH34 module that's causing the problems. I pulled the module out and left it in the freezer for an hour to simulate cold weather than plugged it back in. As I suspected, the starter would crank but the engine wouldn't turn over. Tried this several times and the same thing happened. I than used a blow dryer to warm up the module and this time the remote start worked perfectly; I also tried it several more times just to be sure. Now to get this thing exchanged...posted_image




Posted By: KarTuneMan
Date Posted: February 28, 2011 at 11:37 AM

Your defroster needs a latched pulse, negative, on a yellow/black found in 1 of 2 locations... at the switch, or under the center console on

the pass. side.... down in the footwell. (fat harness)



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Posted By: raigen18
Date Posted: February 28, 2011 at 2:59 PM
I checked behind my HVAC cluster panel and did not see a yellow/black wire coming directly out of the module containing the A/C, recycle, and defroster buttons but there was a yellow/black wire coming out of a 14pin green connector for the temperature, and fan control knobs.




Posted By: raigen18
Date Posted: March 01, 2011 at 7:26 PM
got the defroster working by just hooking up the blue/white defog wire to the yellow/black wire on the 14 pin green connector. I reprogrammed the status 2/defog wire to latched and did not need a relay.

My question now is does the defroster automatically turn off once I turn the key to on? And is there a way to turn off the defroster from the remote?





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