avs s5 alarm

I Have just bought an AVS S5 Alarm system. I live in New Zealand and am not sure if you can get this alarm in other countries. I have a Nissan Primera 1999 P11, (also called an Infiniti G20). Im stuck on the central locking part of the alarm. There are 6 wires coming from the alarm for the central locking. Lock-NO, Lock-COM, Lock-NC, Unlock-NO, Unlock-COM, Unlock-NC. Im not sure exactly how to connect this part up. I have looked at your central locking write ups and can't work out what type of locking system it has. There are four wires going to the drivers door actuator. 3 that are constant ground at rest and 1 that have +12V at rest. If you touch the +12V wire on any of the ground wires the doors unlock then when you take it off again the doors lock. My car has keyless entry from factory but not an imobilliser just keyless entry if that helps. Can you tell me how to get the central locking going or at least tell me what type of lock my car has. Thanks

If the car is the same as a USA released 1999 G20 it uses negative pulses for activating the factory door locks. This is the same thing that the door lock switch on the door does...supplies a momentary ground to the factory relays to drive the door lock actuators. My sheet says the 99 G20 uses a yellow wire for lock and light GREEN/ red wire for unlock at the SECU (Smart Entry Control Unit) located under the driver's side dash to the left of the steering column. More than likely you would also be able to find these wires in the door and coming into the vehicle in the driver's kick panel but grabbing them at the SECU sounds like the easiest location to get them.

From your write up it looks like the system you are installing has internal door lock relays. So...

The NO in your diagram means 'normally open'
The C in your diagram means 'common'
The NC in your diagram means 'normally closed'

Ground both of the 'common' wires and hook the 'normally open' wires to the corresponding wire in the vehicle. Just insulate the normally closed wires they would not get hooked to anything for your vehicle.


-------------
Installer, IT support, and FFL. I need less hobbies.

hi there, thanks for that. Yes this alarm does have internal relays. I will try that out. Thanks very much for your help.

hi again, I have found the wires that kinda of match your describtion under the dash by the SECU, and when i cut them both then the central locking doesn't work. when i join them it works again so im guessing these are the wires. one is yellow with a red stripe and the other is a dark green with a red stripe. that is as close as i could get to the correct colors. all other wires are different. I hooked up the wires that you told me to to the central locking wires but nothing happens. The common is earthed. but when I connect the wires to the wire in the door with +12v the doors lock then unlock by themselves. they won't stayed locked. then when i dis arm the alarm they do nothing. or vice versa depending which way the wires are connected.  Do i have to use the NC and NO wires in combination or something. Thanks for your time

dont just cut it, use a dmm to test them

-------------
Ted
2nd Year Tier 1 Medical School
Still installing as a hobby...pays for groceries
Compustar Expert

As Tedmond stated...NEVER just cut a wire before testing it with your DMM first.

When you test the wires you found, how do they behave? They should go from +12V (or nothing) to ground when you press lock/unlock on the door.

-------------
Installer, IT support, and FFL. I need less hobbies.

Any one ever heard of a Japanese car with pos lock pulses? Don't think so. For that vintage use a test light, such as the snap-on. ground the clip and probe the wires, do it with either all doors closed and key out of ignition or with the driver door latched over.

-------------
Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

In fact I think you found the lock motor wires rather than the lock wires.
That car is the UK made successor to the Stanza

-------------
Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

Directwire lists this is a single wire, colour yellow/red, type "F".
either you feed it sequential neg pulses to lock and unlock or it's a one wire/open circuit where you ground, to lock then break the wiring to unlock or vice versa.

-------------
Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

Hi again,

Im kinda new to this and after i cut the wires i thought that was dumb. that sounds right there is a yellow wire with a red stripe on it. it has cinstant +12v (tested it) and when you griund it the doors lock and when you unground it they unlock or vice versa. can you tell me how to connect my alarm wires to this locking system? thanks very much for your time

Michael Preston

Cut the yellow/red wire.
Un Lock NC to door side of above.
Commons joined together and to car side of above.
Lock NO to ground.
Other wires not used, insulate and tape up.
This assumes ground to lock, open circuit to unlock.
This is the same as the 300Z, early nineties.
This should be in the central locking section, not sure, I've taken this from DEI's own type F diagramme which is the wrong way round! It says open circuit to lock and ground to unlock.



-------------
Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

Hi again.

Thanks for that I will give that a go. when you say that it is the other way round I think you could be right i just cudn't remeber off the top of my head if it locks or unlocks when you apply ground to it. Thanks

hi again, After doing all of these different things it still doesn't go so i gave up and went and bought an aftermarket door lock actuator. Can you please tell me how to hook this alarm system up to the actuator. it has 2 wires coming out of it. Just need to know what wires to use. I have played round with it but can't get it to work I have lock com lock no lock nc and unlock com unloack no unlock nc.

Thanks for all your help.

if the actuator does not come with any relays, its a reverse polarity where one motor side switches polarity.

heres the diagram you want.
https://www.the12volt.com/doorlocks/page3.asp#arp


-------------
Ted
2nd Year Tier 1 Medical School
Still installing as a hobby...pays for groceries
Compustar Expert

my alarm has internel relays? does that matter? and by using that diagram which wires are the lock and unlock wires from the alarm? as there are 6.

Thanks

Lock and unlock NC to ground,
Lock and unlock commons to constant 12v+ fused at 10amps.
Lock and unlock NO to either wire of motor.
Place the motor by your battery or a good 12volts source, touch each wire to a terminal. The wire that is live when it pulls in is your NO lock wire, the other is the NO unlock.

-------------
Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

hi again, I tried what you said and when I touch put the ground wires on the ground it just kept blowing the fuse? so I took the fuse out and touched it and it sparked? so I didn't do that again. Also when I put just one wire of the actuator on a +12v nothing happens. But if I put one on the positive side of the battery and one on the negative side then it works and if you swap the wire over it goes the other way( pulls in and when you swap pushes out) if that helps?

Thanks

Michael Preston

This is the point where you should say "oh well it's above my knowledge levels" and either give up or pay a professional to get it finished.
This car is one of the all time easiest to do, heck I did a complete front end (engine bay and part interior) rewire on one of these once. 2 days.
By the way the actuator is working correctly.

-------------
Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

Hi guys, I just crashed my car and want to put my AVS S5 into my new car, does anyone know the layout of the wiring? I know where the power supply, ground and indicator wires are, but stumped at everything else. I used a dmm to find those out.

To the last poster, how about even telling us what car, make model and year, then printing a list of the alarm wires and functions.

-------------
Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

I don't see what relevance the vehicle has, but it's a 1992 Nissan 300zx. The alarm has 32 wires and the insulation is black on all of them.

https://www.avscarsecurity.com/alarms/info/s_series_range_avs_s5_alarm/

Oh that's OK then you're quite right all vehicles have exactly the same wiring, ignition, locking systems etc. with all the same colours.
All black from NZ? you're good at bad puns are you.
Did any one actually consider labelling the wiring when it was removed from the previous vehicle? Doh.

-------------
Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

hahaha. I didn't have time to label the wires, regretting it now!! I would just buy another one, but the new ones here don't come with installation instructions because they don't want to compromise the 5 star rating. So the only way to get it installed is by using an AVS registered technician. BS if you ask me.

There are ways to test the leads but I think you're on a hiding to nothing here, I believe you have 3 cuts under Oz/NZ rules, we only have 2 under Thatcham Cat 1 (and even that's excessive, a modern car with factory immobiliser should be more than adequate).
Also we only have to have the cuts, power, ignition trigger and grounds (earths) black, you can sort them with a meter.
If it was a DEI product, I would gladly help.
Rule 1 when I remove I heat shrink the different function wires with combinations of red, yellow, blue and black heat shrink.
OK, I'm a pro and you've obviously learnt that trick after the event, no point in rubbing it in, but, can you at least get a marked replacement loom?

-------------
Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

I can buy a $20 alarm new made in china, but a) I don't get discount from insurance and b) the cheap kits have the immobilizer aka standard 4 pin relay separate from the main box.
Looking at either Uniden or Mongoose now. But first have a little fun destroying a $500 alarm

That's the problem but then over here only people like myself can issue the insurance validation certificates.
Chinese, not with a barge pole, trouble is Oz/Nz is a specialisedmarket, Viper make 1 unit available for that market and it's rubbish!
The product here (UK and Europe) is still the best, Clifford with Clifford's software, not re-branded Viper/Python.
Uniden is quite a respected brand though.
Problem is the Japanese never really went for immobilisation in their home market, auto-theft being rare and from what I can gather, your region is sinking under grey imports from Japan, hence the stringent rules.
At least bench that alarm, connect up the antenna and LED, find the two wires that are common, they will be your earths, that's a start.
Find a pair that pulse 12 volts on arm and disarm, that's your indicators, find three that trigger the siren when grounded about 1 minute after arming, that's your hood, door and trunk triggers, you see where this is going....
P.S. Trade cost on a UK Spec Clifford Concept 650 Mk ll is £170 plus tax (20%)including remote start, and that's about 50% more than the US equivalent! About £500-650 installed inc. remote start.

-------------
Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

Here's what I know

1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12
13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 21 22 23 24

1 sends 1 pulse when armed (sounds like door lock trigger)
2,5,12,23,24 are continuously -
3,13,20,22 are continuously +
6,14 are for the indicators
11 triggers alarm when grounded
19 continuously grounded when armed (is this for the siren?)

There are four other spade terminals on the board with two wires on each, so total of 8 wires. These are connected to 2 relays which are the biggest on the board. I can't seem to find any continuity or voltage with any any wires. Not even with each other

Cheers
Paul