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06 f250 diesel, viper 5901

Printed From: the12volt.com
Forum Name: Car Security and Convenience
Forum Discription: Car Alarms, Keyless Entries, Remote Starters, Immobilizer Bypasses, Sensors, Door Locks, Window Modules, Heated Mirrors, Heated Seats, etc.
URL: https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp?tid=125633
Printed Date: May 17, 2024 at 12:23 PM


Topic: 06 f250 diesel, viper 5901

Posted By: party_boy114
Subject: 06 f250 diesel, viper 5901
Date Posted: January 12, 2011 at 4:12 PM

Hey, Im installing my 5901 in my truck in a few days, got about 90% of it figured out(i hope) lol. Im just so confused with the door pins and dome lights.

So from what i  gethered off many many websites, is that the door triger wire on the 5901 (H1/6) gets hooked up to the domelight supervision wire on the truck(black-lt. blue) so what does the 200ma dome light supervision (H1-9) get hooked up to. Ive read that i need to diode isolate the door pins, seeing how i have 4 doors i need to put a diode blocking truck side of wire on each door pin wire and connect it to H1-9? This is where i get confused, i know its not hard i just cant grasp it. I do have keyless entery to the truck. I want to make it so when i lock the truck with the alarm remote the dome light shuts of right away like it does with the factory remote.

Also when the remote start times out and shuts off i heard you need to get it to flash the door pin to shut the radio off, any idea how to do that?

And ive read that the turbo timer can be hook up to a switch so that it runs the time after the truck is shut off every time, this true and is all i need to do is ground h1/10?

Thanks a million guys!



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06 F250 PSD Crew FX4



Replies:

Posted By: tony_g
Date Posted: January 12, 2011 at 4:48 PM

i installed a 5701 on my wifes 98 taurus and i had to diode isolate all four door triggers individually as there was one for each door. i also had to double diode isolate a few days later as i kept getting false alarms from the door input trigger when the bcm went in to "sleep" mode several hours after we had used the car each day so had to completely cut each trigger wire between the door wire and bcm and place a 1n4001 diode in line band end towards door side then use another diode on each wire on the door side to the trigger wire and no more false alarms since then. i read somewhere on here its common with fords to have to do that. for her domelight i used the roller dial on the light switch panel which you use to dim the instrument lights or roll completely up to turn on the domelight, it worked flawlessly and flashes the interior lights when sounding the alarm as well as the parking lights. im not  sure about youre other wires but no doubt there are some very knowledgable and skilled people on here who can point you in the right direction





Posted By: tony_g
Date Posted: January 12, 2011 at 4:57 PM
oh one other thing i did initially tie the domelight in to the door trigger to activate that way but i wanted the alarm to auto rearm and lock if the wife got to the car unlocked it and then forgot something and had to go back indoors to get it( some undesirables in the building across the road) and by having the domelight connected to the door trigger it would trick the alarm into thinking a door had been opened and canceled the timed period before rearming and locking, before installing the r/s we have forgotten to lock it a few times before and its sat overnight unlocked,thankfully im not in england anymore so not too bad but where i live at the moment still not completely good to forget to lock the car lol




Posted By: party_boy114
Date Posted: January 13, 2011 at 4:43 PM
Alright thx for your input! im still confused tho, i want to block the signal comming from the truck to the alarm correct? so put 4 diodes in on each door pin wire and then connect the ends of each diode and connect it to the door trigger input on the alarm? or put in 4 diodes in after the conection point of the alarm on the door pin wires so that the vsm cannot get that pulse?

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06 F250 PSD Crew FX4




Posted By: Twelvoltz
Date Posted: January 13, 2011 at 7:26 PM
The best way is to tie into each door trigger and diode isolate them, however it is a lot easier use the dome light supervision wire for your door trigger, no diodes required. Tie the purple (H1/6) to the vehicle's BLACK/ lt blue and turn off the door trigger error chirp.

The dome light supervision output from your viper system provides a low current output that turns on when you unlock/disarm your alarm. You would need to wire up a relay activated by this wire, supplying a positive tied into the same BLACK/ lt blue wire in the truck. Wiring the relay like this will turn on the dome light when unlocking:

85 H1/9 dome supervision output from Viper
86 and 30 fused constant +12V
87 Out to BLACK/ lt blue



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Installer, IT support, and FFL. I need less hobbies.




Posted By: wmccue
Date Posted: January 13, 2011 at 9:08 PM

Hello,

I've been following these posts and I'm having the same problem on my 01 f-250 diesel. I'm hooking up the 5902 which is really similar to the 5901. I can't find any door triggers that are not hooked to the supervision timed delay.

I did what Twelvoltz recommended and shut off the error chirp and used the relay configuration. 

However then you don't get to utilize the features of you alarm, and you lose the door trigger error reports. 

I don't understand how to find the door trigger wires to do the diode isolation, should all these be black ground wires that i'm looking for? and once i do find them should they show 12v+ when the door is open or closed.

Once i connect my diodes to these triggers, can the diodes be soldered together into one wire then run to the alarm input or output + or -  ???

sorry for all the questions but just trying to understand.

Thank-You in advance to anyone who can answer.!



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2001 F-250 7.3l powerstroke diesel crew cab without keyless entry




Posted By: tony_g
Date Posted: January 13, 2011 at 9:54 PM
assuming ford place there modules in roughly the same you should be able to look under the steering column and see the passenger compartment fuse panel and the bcm is mounted on the underside of it with two or three grey connector plugs coming from the bottom, this is where youre door trigger wires should run into from all the doors. from the fun experiance of installing the 5701 in my wifes car all those inputs are negative (-) triggers for the various switches etc, what i did was to connect the multimeter + probe to 12v and backprobed each one with the neg test probe whilst one of the cars doors was open and everytime the meter showed a change to around 12v when i probed a wire i went and shut the open door to see if the reading changed to 0v indicating a door input wire,its time consuming but i got all doors trunk and trunk glass hatch tied into the vipers trigger wire. as i mentioned earlier i had false alarms on the door triggers after it was all done so i double diode isolated the door wires i.e i completely cut each wire in half, rejoined it together with a diode band side towards the door side wire then attached another diode on the door side of the trigger wire for each door etc then soldered the ends together and to the vipers door trigger input wire. whilst looking up under the dash area if you have factory keyless the module should be offset to the right above the brake pedal and you can tie into that for drivers priority unlocking as well as the 2nd unlock for all doors and the lock wire. before i started my install i spent the day before testing all the wires i was looking for and writing them down ready for the next day to just have at it, it saved a lot of time although i still couldnt do it as fast as the pro's can but 8 hours was long enough and it all works great




Posted By: party_boy114
Date Posted: January 14, 2011 at 8:37 PM

Alright thx a million!, i understand what to do with the door pins now. Gonna do the diodes even tho its a little more involved, then at lest its the proper way and full function of remote displays.

So does any one know how to flash the door pins when the remote start times out and shuts off the truck, but the radio stays on? Is there a wire that brefly gets a signal when the command start shuts off so i can hook a relay to flash the door pins, and in turn shut off the radio?

Any ideas on the turbo timer?

Thanks again!



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06 F250 PSD Crew FX4




Posted By: tony_g
Date Posted: January 15, 2011 at 2:20 AM
from what ive read in other posts some suggestions have been to use the r/s factory alarm rearm wire to pulse the neg door trigger to shut of the RAP, im not completely sure on this as my car doesnt have this feature as soon as the ignition is off the radio and anything else shuts off. the turbo timer according to my viper install guide says to connect a momentary  push switch to the turbo timer wire and connect to a ground source, then you would just have to adjust settings for pulse count to activate and runtime if you want to change any of that in the settings menu




Posted By: party_boy114
Date Posted: January 16, 2011 at 3:37 PM
My truck does not have a factory alarm, just keyless entery. Thats why i was wondering how to hook it up.

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06 F250 PSD Crew FX4




Posted By: tony_g
Date Posted: January 16, 2011 at 6:29 PM
neither does my car but you should be able to use the factory alarm rearm wire on the harness coming from the viper and connect it to the bcm side of the doorpin wire,when you shutdown the r/s with the remote or when it times out it should send a pulse down that wire and will turn off the rap without physically needing a door to be opened and closed




Posted By: wmccue
Date Posted: January 18, 2011 at 11:50 PM

Tony G thanks for that reply on the door triggers for the 2001 f-250.  I found my door triggers and diode isolated them, now i have a new problem.  The door triggers work great now instantly instead of being on a timed delay with the dome light as they were done before.

However now i got this problem after about 30 minutes my doors trigger and the alarm sounds off. After several runs out to the driveway with my shotgun in hand i realized i got something going on with the wiring but am confused.  Anybody want to enlighten me? I think i'm getting a pulse somewhere.  

 I found only three door trigger wires for four doors?? one wire goes to the two rear doors and one each to the front two.  independently.  I did not cut the door trigger wire i stabbed the band side of the diode into the doors wire, and soldered them in. the other side of th diode i soldered wire to it and tied all three door trigger wires together and temporarily wire nutted them to the alarms negative trigger wire.  Did i do this wrong?  

Hats off to to anyone with some advice.



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2001 F-250 7.3l powerstroke diesel crew cab without keyless entry




Posted By: tony_g
Date Posted: January 19, 2011 at 12:39 AM
sounds similar to my initial problem with false alarms, i would be sitting comfortably on the recliner watchin tv then would hear the 2 way remote start playing its funky alarm activation tone and would jump up like a jack rabbit whos just been shot in the a#$ so fast it would scare the baby and set him off, id go running out to the car and start checking the exterior thinking someones tried to get into it and it would all be fine. the valet would give me 3 flashes indicating a door trigger input so i would check all the doors were secure rearm and it would be fine. this happened for a couple of days before i did a search and found  some info that pointed out that most fords need to be double diode isolated as when the bcm goes into a low power "sleep" state it sometimes sends a small surge out which is enough to be picked up by the viper as a door being opened and to set the alarm off. ever since i double diode isolated the doorpins i have not had one false alarm at all, sounds like you might have to do the same good thing is it does'nt take too long. did you manage to get the radio to shut off on r/s with the rearm wire in the end?




Posted By: monty_77
Date Posted: January 19, 2011 at 12:47 AM
here look at this heres your answers

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Posted By: wmccue
Date Posted: January 19, 2011 at 9:28 AM

< language=> Monty do you have one of these for an 01 f-250?  Tony_G I didn't have the problem with my radio because the 01 fords don't have this feature. I know what you mean my work truck is an 08 superduty and the radio stays on untill you open the doors. So anyway Luckily i didn't have to deal with that on the 01.

Might I ask again How do you double diode isolate? And do you think this will solve the problem if i go back and do over this way? and also Did I do the single diode isolation properly as i explained in one of my earlier posts?

I might add that when I installed the diodes I used 1AMP diodes but when i completed the work I noticed the radio shack diode package said "Assorted 1AMP diodes" some said 1N-004 some 1N-002 some 1N-006 etc. I know that two of them were 1N-004, but the third was heat shrinked before i realized this. Originally i thought they were all the same.

This alarm install has been a rewarding experience! I've been forced to learn a lot about electronics, and my six year old has got one hell of a throwing arm now after opening and closing doors by his calculation some 600+times.  I'm glad i did this but still hope I never have to do this again!



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2001 F-250 7.3l powerstroke diesel crew cab without keyless entry




Posted By: monty_77
Date Posted: January 19, 2011 at 12:56 PM
yes i do have one for a 2001 f-250 PM me an email or email me and i will send it to you.

the diodes will work they are all one amp should not be a problem there


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Posted By: wmccue
Date Posted: January 19, 2011 at 7:57 PM

Here's another question.

Instead of diode isolating each door trigger why couldn't a person just stick in one diode in the wire going to the alarms negative door trigger wire.  wouldn't this do the same thing since each door trigger ties into this?



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2001 F-250 7.3l powerstroke diesel crew cab without keyless entry




Posted By: t&t tech
Date Posted: January 19, 2011 at 8:19 PM
No it won't! Dioding each trigger prevents one from feeding to the other and then the alarm causing yoru faults, so no dioding the way you suggested is a no, no, to put it nicely.




Posted By: wmccue
Date Posted: January 19, 2011 at 8:30 PM

Thanks t&t,

I diode isolated each trigger wire ...Just can't seem to figure out why i'm getting a door trigger error exactly 30 minutes after i arm the system.



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2001 F-250 7.3l powerstroke diesel crew cab without keyless entry




Posted By: monty_77
Date Posted: January 19, 2011 at 11:24 PM
that is because you are getting a signal from the bcm every thirty minute and that the reason for false triggers.

that is why you need two diodes per wire.

if you look at the last page of the link i put in this post you will see how to do it right. it does show how to put the diodes in there


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Posted By: tonanzith
Date Posted: January 20, 2011 at 12:32 AM
Wow, from a PROFESSIONAL installer, use the Dome Supervision wire. It is BLACK/ Light Blue found in the passenger kick or cluster, blue plug, pin26 and is +. It comes on whenever ANY door is opened. No diodes needed.

posted_image

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Gary Sather




Posted By: tonanzith
Date Posted: January 20, 2011 at 12:38 AM
Sorry, the post didn't post everything after the photo. Hook up the dome supervision wire to ANY of the door trigger wires using a relay.

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Gary Sather




Posted By: party_boy114
Date Posted: January 20, 2011 at 3:40 PM

sorry may be a stupid question but what would hooking dome supervision wire to the door trigger do?

When i lock the truck with the remote, the dome light stays on till timeout, is the only way to shut that light off, is to connect the lock wire from the alarm to the bcm and not at the driver side kick?



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06 F250 PSD Crew FX4




Posted By: tonanzith
Date Posted: January 20, 2011 at 7:37 PM
Doing so it makes the vehicle think a door is open while it sends a signal, in turn it turns on the dome light through the bcm.

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Gary Sather




Posted By: party_boy114
Date Posted: January 20, 2011 at 9:59 PM
So then i would still have to wait for the timeout period of the domelight before i can lock/arm?

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06 F250 PSD Crew FX4




Posted By: party_boy114
Date Posted: January 21, 2011 at 11:34 PM
Anyone know how to or what wire to hook up the lock wire to so the dome light shuts off when the alarm/doors are armed/locked?

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06 F250 PSD Crew FX4




Posted By: party_boy114
Date Posted: January 22, 2011 at 8:01 PM

Nevermind, i just programed the alarm to turn off door chirp.



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06 F250 PSD Crew FX4




Posted By: wmccue
Date Posted: January 25, 2011 at 7:55 PM

Hey guys thanks for all the help, got the 01 superduty up and running with the new 5902 alarm.

I had trouble with the door triggers getting a false alarm after about 45 minutes of being armed. so i went back did a double diode isolation on each door and ran a new trigger wire to the negative trigger input on the alarm for each door. Problem solved works like a charm.

Now i'm curios if my shock sensor is working and also if my tilt sensor is working, I have the shock sensor up to 13 and when i kick the tires slap the windshield or even jump up and down on the back bumper, no triggers go off?? I'm assuming 15 is the most sensitive and 1 would be the least is this correct? I wired the tilt sensor to orange ground when armed, red to 12 v power and light blue to the negative door trigger is this right?

Any thoughts or comments?



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2001 F-250 7.3l powerstroke diesel crew cab without keyless entry




Posted By: wmccue
Date Posted: January 26, 2011 at 7:59 PM

Hello again

I'm back with new problems...and  I thought all the fun was over!

Well I read back through these posts because i thought either Tony G or Party Boy had an issue with the radio. But seems mine is a new and unique problem.

I have three issues, one is that the Radio powers on when the key is turned back to acessories position, but does not power on in the on position.

The second is the truck only starts when the door to the cab is closed, I used to be able to open the door and reach in and start the vehicle while standing outside, now it will only start by remote or when in the cab and the door is closed. 

Last problem may be just a feature of the alarm ...........the windows will not work untill the dome light timer goes off.

Any help would be greatly appreciated!!



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2001 F-250 7.3l powerstroke diesel crew cab without keyless entry





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