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’05 chevy pu prestige 997a rs problems

Printed From: the12volt.com
Forum Name: Car Security and Convenience
Forum Discription: Car Alarms, Keyless Entries, Remote Starters, Immobilizer Bypasses, Sensors, Door Locks, Window Modules, Heated Mirrors, Heated Seats, etc.
URL: https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp?tid=125636
Printed Date: May 16, 2025 at 6:50 PM


Topic: ’05 chevy pu prestige 997a rs problems

Posted By: stalkingbutler
Subject: ’05 chevy pu prestige 997a rs problems
Date Posted: January 12, 2011 at 7:23 PM

I'm installing a Presige APS 997a RS in my 2005 Chevy ext.cab truck.
I'm using an Omega DB-GMDL-BP to interface the truck.
This is my 1st car alarm/RS.
But not my 1st time installing devices. I install commercial alarm systems/access control/electronic Locks.
This all seems pretty straightforward, but I'm a little confused with some of the wiring.

The alarm is in, and I got the door lock unlock part working fine. but the alarm wont trigger when the door is opened and alarm is armed.
And the truck wont auto start
The module is programmed for type 4.

From the Omega:
Brown.. -neg ground output while running. (this gets the lt. blue -neg output from alarm?)
Pink/white.. door trigger output (this goes to brown -neg door trigger input to alarm?)
Pink.. dome light input from vehicle (this should get the grey/black from the door module in drivers door?)

Also, I'm tapped onto the white wire coming off the back of the tach for the tach wire. But, I get no feedback when trying to "learn" the tach.
I'm almost there, just need a little advice.
Anyone?



Replies:

Posted By: jeremytravis
Date Posted: January 13, 2011 at 3:08 PM

Is there a troubleshooting section in the install manual for the RS? With some RS/alarms systems it will indicate the problem by flashing the parking lights a certain amount of times, then look it up in the manual and it will say the problem. If not you will have to go over all your wiring again, like your neutral safety wire, hoodpin wire ect... And check your RS/alarm system programing, it is very important that everything is programed properly, you normally have to change some settings like your transmission settings, tach settings ect... 



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**ADVANCED MECP CERTIFIED




Posted By: stalkingbutler
Date Posted: January 13, 2011 at 6:18 PM
There is a troubleshooting portion. Which doesn't seem to work right now.
   I performed the steps exactly, and I can't seem to get into programming. ----(do I need to connect the alarm to the park lights? or will the Integration module do this?)
   I've connected what seems obvious, and to the wiring that I know.
I'm having trouble with the wiring explained in my first post specifically.
And not real sure what all I really NEED to connect to get this all working.
And, it doesn't seem like the worksheets that come with the two devices are very helpful in how to connect to each other.
Specifically the Omega DB GMDL-BP.
I'm pretty good with alarms, stereo, automotive.
But, this thing is really kicking my ass.

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Posted By: monty_77
Date Posted: January 14, 2011 at 2:28 AM
the gmdl-bp will not do the parking lights.


it will do the passlock 2 and doorlocks and thats it





Posted By: stalkingbutler
Date Posted: January 15, 2011 at 11:10 AM
Thanks Monty,
I'll wire directly to the park lights, so I can get the feedback for the alarm troubleshooting. I thought that device (GM-DB) did a little more. I'll need to figure out some of the direct wiring connections then. (Dome light, door trigger, etc.) and whether or not I need to diode isolate. I also see some on here recommending soldered connections. I will do that after I'm sure I have everything connected up right. My stereo is all soldered, the alarm should be too.


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Posted By: monty_77
Date Posted: January 15, 2011 at 7:21 PM
if i remember right the gmdl-bp will have the trigger for the doors (front doors)

here i will email you something this should help




Posted By: stalkingbutler
Date Posted: January 16, 2011 at 4:09 PM
Wow, that looks good.
Thanks a lot.
It's been raining here, I'm about to get back on it.
Will I need to diode isolate on these connections?


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Posted By: monty_77
Date Posted: January 16, 2011 at 8:39 PM
you should not have to diode isolate the triggers from the gmdlbp unless you are using that trigger wire for more than door triggers that wire.




Posted By: stalkingbutler
Date Posted: January 20, 2011 at 12:34 PM
Got it all connected. Remote start was starting and then dying. I'll need to figure out which wire to keep it running.


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Posted By: monty_77
Date Posted: January 20, 2011 at 1:47 PM
will it take over if you start it with the key. then remote start and then turn key off and remove.

if it stays running then its the bypass if not check your tach wire

did you hook up a tach wire or voltage sensing. i don't trust that voltage sensing

On an 05 chevy you can get the tach behind the cluster its a white wire.





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Posted By: stalkingbutler
Date Posted: January 20, 2011 at 2:24 PM
I'm on the white wire. And I learned the tach into the system.
But, right after I went into the door panel to tap onto the dome light wire-- the battery on the truck went dead.
I lost the comms with the GMDB and everything started getting weird.
I was almost there!
Frustration!
I think I have a problem with the IPC/DIC circuit on the truck itself.
I checked this fuse and I have a half amp constant draw.
I did some searching and there are a lot of hits about this.
I've got a current draw problem, and adding this RS just compounded the problem.

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Posted By: stalkingbutler
Date Posted: January 23, 2011 at 5:37 PM
Ok,
the battery prob has just gotten worse.
I had to disconnect the R'S to try to get to the bottom of the electrical issue.
It now seems that my JL amps are pulling 3.4 amps current when off.
I've removed the fuse from the HU so I know it is not keeping the amps on. Has anyone seen JL amps stay on like this?

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