xk01 bypass stops responding

I just installed a XK01 Bypass Kit (AMDL) in a 2008 Chevy Trailblazer. The Bypass initially talks to the truck fine and will immobilize the Passlock, lock, and unlock the doors, etc. However, when the remote start (Avital 4103) is started and then stopped by the button on the remote, then the Bypass will no longer talk to the truck until the key is in the ignition and turned on/started. It seems like the Bypass is losing its programming after it loses its status (-) signal. The Bypass is programmed to truck type 1.

Here is a scenario to better explain:

1. Remote start the truck -> Truck starts
2. Cancel the remote start -> Truck shuts off
3. Remote start the truck -> Truck tries to start but the Bypass isn't talking to the truck
4. Unlock/Lock the truck - > Avital unit responds but the Bypass isn't talking to the truck
5. Place key in ignition and start the truck -> Truck starts
6. Remove key from ignition - > Truck shuts off
7. Remote start the truck -> Truck starts
8. Cancel the remote start -> Truck shuts off
9. Remote start the truck -> Truck tries to start but the Bypass isn't talking to the truck
ETC......

Any help with this would be appreciated! Thank you.

DLPKGM   Is ALL I have to say.

The XK modules for me since they have been released have been COMPLETELY
unreliable to say the least. A huge disappointment from Directed.

If you use the DLPKGM I doubt you will have any issues at all. As it
SHOULD be.

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Gary Sather

or Flashlogic FLCAN. I suggest that over really anything from directed... Our shop got the flashlogic modules and hasn't looked back. We use either the FLCAN, PKALL, and the DLPK in a few odd scenarios or due to no FLCAN's in stock.

Everytime i've used the FLCAN I have been very pleased with it. In every install it has done exactly what it says.. I've never seen a module be so reliable with features other than bypass. Locks, factory alarm, tachometer, brake output, hoodpin.. whatever it says it does it does flawlessly.

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2008 Dodge Ram 1500
MECP Certified Advanced Installer CEA 191700

Are you using the D2D Cable? Also make sure you arent connecting the brown wire from the XK01 to the status on the RS until after you programmed the resistance.

I've always used a GMDLBP when doing trailblazers. Its pretty much bullet proof. Also have you connected a relay to power the Brown 2nd accessory wire?

the 4103 series have known problems with D2D.... make sure the unit is wired W2W... BTW, i use XK01 on TB's often and have no issues at all.....  otherwise i would use a DBALL or Idata DL

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Kevin Gerry
Certified Electronics Technician
MECP First Class Installer

Owner/Installer
Classic Car Audio
since 1979

Hello all. I used W2W. I got a call from the guy that his battery was dead yesterday. This tells me the bypass is probably staying on. I did in fact wire a relay to power the second accessory wire. I hooked up the ground wire on the relay to the Remote Start GWR (status) output that is tied bypass. I read something online that the relay could be back-feeding some type of signal on the line and keeping the XK01 alive. I was told to diode isolate the bypass unit/relay.

I have a few questions before I do this. Do I have to use the GWR status output to ground the relay or can I just use a common ground? The only issue I see with this is that everytime the car is started with the key, the accessory 2 line will always get 12 volts when accessory 1 is alive.

Also, in regards to buddholly's post, I wasn't aware that I had to program a resistance to the XK01. Can someone elaborate what I need to do in that regard?

Below is how I wired this truck. Thanks for your help.

did you diode isolate the two connections??  if you didnt that is likely your problem.....  use status (blue) as GWR to your XK01 and use 2nd status (blue/white) as the GWR feed for your 2nd Acc relay.....

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Kevin Gerry
Certified Electronics Technician
MECP First Class Installer

Owner/Installer
Classic Car Audio
since 1979

Actually, I bet I can use the ORANGE (-) 200mA ACCESSORY OUTPUT wire on the 4-pin satellite harness to power the relay. That way no diodes have to get involved on the STATUS output. Anybody opposed to that?

Thanks kgerry. I did not diode isolate them.

So I will not need to diode isolate anything if I hook the relay up to the 2nd status wire (blue/white)...correct? The only thing hooked up to the the 1st status wire (blue) will be the bypass at that point.

correct...if you use blue/white 2nd status for the relay you wont need to isolate them....

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Kevin Gerry
Certified Electronics Technician
MECP First Class Installer

Owner/Installer
Classic Car Audio
since 1979

I wouldnt use the status output for the 2nd accessory relay. Its only a 200mA ground. It would be better to take pin 86 on the relay to the small orange wire in the 4 pin harness, 87 and 85 to +12V constant and 30 to the brown accessory wire in the car. you also still have to program the resistance on the xk01 right?

Step 4 in the programming guide tells you to start the car to complete programming. If you did that you programmed the resistance.

OK guys. I worked on the truck tonight and hooked up the bypass signal wire (brown) on the second status output on the RS. That means the relay was on the main status (blue) and the bypass on the secondary (blue/white). Everything works fine now and the XK01 responds all of the time. My original problem is gone.

In regards to the dead battery issue, I tested the drain on the battery and came up with .04A reading with the RS & XK01 hooked up. This seems fine...without both hooked up, the drain was about .03A.

I had another XK01 unit and plugged it in and came with the same reading. From what I read online, the total battery drain for a vehicle should be below .05A so this should be fine.

So all in all, it was a successful night. Thanks for everyone's help!!