cm6000, 2w8000fmas

hi, i have a cm6000 and the remote set that came with it is the 2w8000fmas Canadian model.,just like the 2w900 will it work with the cm6000? thanks

yes it will.

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Ted
2nd Year Tier 1 Medical School
Still installing as a hobby...pays for groceries
Compustar Expert

thank you for the reply. appreciate it

i have some questions with regards to DIY install, i have installed CM3300 on my wifes honda civic and i am trying to install the remote alarm/start on my 07 honda civic EX,  automatic transmission, i have no problems connecting the wires for the alarm side but for the starter side i have no experience yet.

i will be using CM6000 AS  and already bought ADS Blade TB flashed to HA

on CN1: connected all 6 wires

on CN3: connected

Pin1: output to starter kill

Pin7: 2nd ignition output

Pin10:  - door trigger connected to dome light wiring(pink)

Pin20: output to siren

CN4: Blade Module TB-HA

Pin5: ORANGE / Black connect to ?????????

CN5

Pin 2: trunk release

Pin4: Unlock

Pin5: lock

am i forgetting anything,  do i need to connect Engine sensing? Thank you for your help

Blade ORANGE / Black goes to the vehicles Light Green wire at the ignition switch transponder connector.  It is a very thin wire at Pin3.

I prefer to use the (-) Parking Light wire at the steering column .  It is easy to find and safer.

The Civic EX usually has a Factory alarm so you will need to connect the CM6000 Disarm output.

I would use Tach mode and connect the tach sense wire to a Fuel Injector.  More reliable in cold climates.

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Soldering is fun!

@kreg357: thank you for your reply, I will connect the negative parklight as per your advise. My 2007 EX does not have factory alarm(no red indicator on instrument panel) only remote keyless entry. For the tach sense wire to injector wire what wire color can I connect it to? Thank you.

Any Fuel Injector, connect to the wire that is not Yellow/Black.

(-) Parking Light wire is Gray.

You indicated an IGN2 but that may not be the case. 
At the ignition harness you should find the following:  ( Always verify with a Digital Multi Meter )
White                50 Amp +12 volt constant
Blue                  Ignition
Yellow              Starter
Orange             Accessory 1
Red                  Accessory 2    You can use the CN3 WHITE/ Black (-) 250mA 2nd Accessory Output
                                                   connected to the thin Purple wire of the extra relay.  The install
                                                   guide details the wiring for the extra relay.

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Soldering is fun!

thank you! So for the door trigger(-). It is ok to tap to the pink wire(dome light)?

I prefer to use the 4 individual door triggers with diode isolation as the Door Trigger input.  They are easy to locate and accessible. 

 At the fuse box, the upper most connector is a Green 42 pin plug.  It has all 4 door triggers, as follows:

Drivers Door is Green at Pin 37.
Passenger Front Door is Light Green at Pin 3.
Left Rear Door is Brown at Pin 17.
Right Rear Door is Gray at Pin 2.
All are (-) triggers.  Four 1N4001 diodes with the band toward the vehicle are required for isolation.
The CM6x00 comes set for (-) Door Triggers but check that dip switch to be sure.

If you go with the Dome Light (-) Pink wire and it does a delay / fade you might have to change Programming
Option 3-03.

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Soldering is fun!

Thank you very much! I was thinkinking of doing the individual door trigger I received my ADS blade this morning and I got the ads-al-ha instead of the TB, but I paid only $65 instead of the $95 price for the AL. It was already flashed. So I will be doing the install this weekend and I will solder all connections

If they flashed it with BLADE-AL(DL)-HA firmware you got a big bonus.  With that firmware it will supply
the CM6000 with door, hood and trunk status, and a tach signal.  You will still have to connect the CM6000
to the cars Brake, Parking lights and Ignition wires.  Just follow the Type 6 install instructions.  The hardest part will be getting to the Lock and Unlock wires at the back of the fuse box.

Nice system.  Good Luck.

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Soldering is fun!

Kreg357: greatly appreciate your help and advices,with all the info that you have shared I am confident that it will be an trouble free install. I will post here the outcome of my DIY install after. Thanks

One last question(hopefully)

As per BLADE-AL(DL) –HA install instruction Type 6 at Blade Wiring
Connector CN4
    WHITE/ Black(pin20) tapped to Blue / YELLOW(pin13)
    WHITE/ Red(pin10) connected to Unlock wire (Gray pin27 @ Fuse Box)
    White(pin9) connected to Lock Wire(Green pin28 @Fuse Box)
    ORANGE / Black(pin5) connected to Lt. Green(ignition sw transponder pin3)
    Orange( pin4) connected to Pink(ignition sw transponder pin4)

Does this mean I do not have to connect CM6000, CN2 wires for the Door, Hood, Trunk and Tach?

Thanks again

Correct.  The Blade to CM6000 connection will transfer the signals without any external wiring.  The CM6000 will send the Blade a Lock command and the Blade will lock the doors  ( thru its White Lock wire at CN4 ).  No need to connect the wires from CN5.  Same thing for the Door, Hood and Trunk Status inputs at CN3.  They are "gathered" by the Blade and sent on to the CM6000 thru the internal connection.

However, I mis-read the chart on page 2 of the install guide and was over a column with the Tach.  The Blade will not provide a Tach signal ( it does provide an E-Brake signal ), so you will still need to connect the CM6000 Tach wire ( CN3 - 16 Yellow/Black ) to a Fuel Injector. 

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Soldering is fun!

Kreg357: thanks again ok, will do that, i was just confused about having to connect the lock and unlock from the Blade connector, having the Blade AL will save me a lot of time and cleaner install since i no longer need to wire up the door(no more diode isolate),hood, trunk and e/brake

as for the Blade,

i called the shop that sold me the Blade to inform them that they gave me the AL instead of TB, told them i will pay them the difference  and will send them the payment. i mean, i can get away with it but i was feeling really bad about it though. the shop owner then called just a couple of minutes ago and said that because of the honest intention to pay back the difference, he will send me and RPS for the CM6000 and a leather case for the 2way remote. 

Finally, installed my CM6000, took me 6 hours for the install, i took my time checking the wires with Dmm and soldered every connections, tucked away the wires and everything is working properly.  Thanks to Kreg357 for his help and thank you 12volt.com.

update:  i was reading thru the users guide saying that i can set the alarm to do the Auto Lock Mode, so i programmed the option 1-14 setting II (ON) and pressed remote button 1 for 2.5 secs.  car will lock and arm as i walk away from the car and will unlock/disarm as i come near the car without  even pressing the remote button 1.  it was really cool.

Cool option, but only available on International Two Way Remote Kits.

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Soldering is fun!

international kits are the ones non 900mhz or SS

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Ted
2nd Year Tier 1 Medical School
Still installing as a hobby...pays for groceries
Compustar Expert

yup i got the international remote 7087A-2W8000R.  is it also advisable to add on a proximity sensor, my friend have this DEI 508D and he is not using it and wanted to give it to me. i can use the green connector CN14 for this.  thanks