1988 chevy suburban accesory wire

I searched and could not find the answer.

Remote start (Crimestopper CS2016FM) has an accessory wire connection and an accessory 2 wire connection. My Suburban does not have an Accessory 2 wire. In the installation instructions is does note "optional" but does not explain the optional part.

I am comfortable doing stereo work, but this is my first alarm/remote start install and practice for a Viper 5902 going into my other truck next week.

I'm assuming I leave the accessory 2 wire from the remote start unhooked since it is meant to power the accessory 2 circuit of which there is none.

Is my thinking correct?

Thank you.

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James

yes you will not use all the wires of the remote starter for all vehicles.

if you don't have it you don't use it

you are thinking correctly


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12 VOLT CONSTANT       RED (+)       IGNITION SWITCH HARNESS      
STARTER       YELLOW (+) or PURPLE (+)       IGNITION SWITCH HARNESS      
STARTER 2       N/A            
IGNITION 1       PINK (+)       IGNITION SWITCH HARNESS      
IGNITION 2       N/A            
IGNITION 3       N/A            
ACCESSORY /HEATER BLOWER 1       ORANGE (+)       IGNITION SWITCH HARNESS      
ACCESSORY /HEATER BLOWER 2       N/A            
KEYSENSE       N/A            
PARKING LIGHTS ( - )       N/A            
PARKING LIGHTS ( + )       BROWN (+)       @ HEADLIGHT SWITCH or FUSEBOX      
POWER LOCK       LIGHT BLUE (TYPE A)       IN DRIVERS DOOR HARNESS      
POWER UNLOCK       BLACK/ WHITE (TYPE A)       IN DRIVERS DOOR HARNESS      
LOCK MOTOR WIRE       GRAY (+)       IN DRIVERS DOOR HARNESS      
DOOR TRIGGER       WHITE (-)       @ UNDER DASH LIGHT      
DOMELIGHT SUPERVISION       USE DOOR TRIGGER, Requires #775 Relay            
TRUNK RELEASE       N/A            
SLIDING POWER DOOR       N/A            
HORN       BLACK (-)       @ STEERING COLUMN HARNESS      
TACH       PURPLE / WHITE       @ DISTRIBUTOR or ECM, See NOTE *1      
WAIT TO START LIGHT       DARK BLUE (+) See NOTE *2       @ INSTRUMENT CLUSTER      
BRAKE       WHITE (+)       @ SWITCH ABOVE BRAKE PEDAL      
FACTORY ALARM DISARM       N/A            
ANTI-THEFT       N/A            
NOTES
NOTE *1 The ECM (Electronic Control Module) is located BEHIND the GLOVEBOX, it is a SILVER BOX with (2) plugs.


NOTE *2 when hooking up a REMOTE STARTER on a DIESEL, if the WAIT to START wire from the Remote Starter does not wait until the Light on the dash turn out before cranking, you will need to program in the 5,10 or 15 Second WAIT to START TIMMER in the Installation Manual. On some vehicles the Wait to Start Light on the dash is not a true (+)Positive or (-)Negative and the wire from the Remote Starter will not owrk. When this Wait to Start Timmer is programmed, disconnect and tape up the Wait to Start wire from the Remote Starter that is tied into the Wait to Start Light on the dash.

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Thanks.

I think I discovered a wiring error from yesterday so I thought I would check.

On my suburban, there are several extra 12volt sources on the fuse panel that are switched with the accessory. I'm used to doing stereo work where you use the switched line to turn on the stereo. In the case of remote start, it's opposite, correct? Connecting to the accessory wire is to power up the circuit when doing remote start not to take power off the circuit.

Since I'm trying to power a circuit instead of take power off it, I can't go in through the fuse block on one of the switched circuits, correct?

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James

for all your main connection take them at the ignition harness located on or coming off the steering column.

they will be coming from the key switch and you will not leave something out that need to be powered

Also on another note solder everything please don't use wire taps very unreliable.

i have never had a problem when everything is soldered.

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I solder everything anyway. Been doing it that way for years on anything electrical. Takes more time, in the beginning, but less time in the end.

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James

Got everything hooked up and it works. Doing the final wiring today and putting back together.

One question, when I disarm/unlock the doors the door chime/buzzer sounds even with the door closed. I'm going to double check it today to see if I can find out why as I would prefer it not to do that if possible. However, I want the door chime/buzzer to work to keep my wife from leaving the headlights on so I don't want to just cut it off or remove it.

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James

does it make the chime sound, when the lights flash to indicate the unlock of the doors?

does it make this sound when remote started?

monty_77 wrote:

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does it make the chime sound, when the lights flash to indicate the unlock of the doors?

does it make this sound when remote started?

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It does make the sound when the lights flash to unlock the door and the sound remains as long as the parking lights are on from unlocking the doors.

On the remote start, when it first starts the cycle, the noise is made, but then it shuts off and starts the truck. The chime is not on when the truck is running by remote start.

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James

this is normal.

it doing the same as if you where to turn the switch on and off with out the vehicle running

monty_77 wrote:

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this is normal.

it doing the same as if you where to turn the switch on and off with out the vehicle running

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Thank you.

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James

Both of you should be congratulated on this thread.
Good sensible questions;
good succinct answers.
I especially liked the soldering comment, more time now and less time later, also the comment about all working, now going to box up, install 101, don't box up till it's all working.
Good on you both.

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.