first remote start, have 2 issues

I have an 2002 Silverado. I installed my first remote start over the weekend and it went mostly successful. I have two issues that I'm hoping you guys can help with. I haven't seen much in a search to help, so I'm starting a thread. I have the VATS turned off in the PCM, so no bypass is needed.

I installed a Viper 5101 remote start. https://www.viper.com/P-4102V/Viper-5101-1-way-Supercode-Remote-Start-System


It remote starts and stops just fine but:

1. It's apparently doing something to my trans. I don't have overdrive and the converter isn't locking up anymore. I unplugged the power to the unit and the trans started working fine. I connected the wire for the second ign b/c I saw on here that it was required for the trans.

2. The doors don't lock or unlock. When I press the button on the remote, I can hear the box clicking like it's sending the signal. But the doors don't do anything. I used this for the wires. https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/file.asp?ID=714 I used white for unlock and lt blue for lock. I didn't use any relays, I just wired directly to the BCM wires. Do I need to use relays?

If I'm leaving anything out or forgetting anything, please let me know. This is the first time I've ever done one of these.

abrrymnvette wrote:

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1. It's apparently doing something to my trans. I don't have overdrive and the converter isn't locking up anymore. I unplugged the power to the unit and the trans started working fine. I connected the wire for the second ign b/c I saw on here that it was required for the trans.

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Did you hook up all three heavy gauge supply wires? Did you verify that the white wire was receiving +12V during the entire start cycle? In other words, did you make absolutely sure it is powered as an ignition wire? Also, did you power both accessory wires as well? Even if it does not show problems at first, I have read that if the second accessory wire is not powered when remote started it could cause problems in the future.

abrrymnvette wrote:

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The doors don't lock or unlock. When I press the button on the remote, I can hear the box clicking like it's sending the signal. But the doors don't do anything. I used this for the wires. https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/file.asp?ID=714 I used white for unlock and lt blue for lock. I didn't use any relays, I just wired directly to the BCM wires. Do I need to use relays?

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You should not need relays for the door locks in your truck. Again, did you verify the Viper is providing a ground pulse when locking/unlocking when you press lock/unlock on the remote? How did you test to make sure you were on the correct wires at the BCM? Always use a DMM when finding the wires you need. Once you have found the proper door lock wires, take an old fashioned bulb test light, hook one end to ground and tap the wires in question with the probe end. The door locks should function, as it is providing a low current ground through the filament of the bulb. This would show that you do not need external relays for activation. But NEVER try this method first, always find the proper wires with the DMM first.

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Installer, IT support, and FFL. I need less hobbies.

I recently did a 2001 Silverado.  Think it's the same as 2002.  Most of the wires were in the BCM plugs just under the steering column.  The Door lock / unlock wires were Type A(+).  The remote start brand I use only outputs a (-) door lock signal so I had to use relays to convert to (+).

Lock       Light Blue (+)   @ BCM Brown Plug

Unlock   White (+)           @ BCM Brown Plug

Here is a picture of BCM from Bulldog Security :  https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp~TID~125824~PN~1

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Soldering is fun!

I think I found the problem with my trans, but not sure. This is how I have it hooked up. I just tested all the wires really quickly.

H3 harness
Pink - Ignition
RED / White - Ignition
Orange - Accessory
Violet - Starter
Red - 12v constant    <---- I think this is my issue. should be ignition
Pink/White - not used
RED / Black - 12v constant


Now for the doors, I just tested with the multimeter at the BCM connections. I'm getting a full 12v when I hold the lock or unlock buttons down. I have white to green and when I hold down unlock the green wire has 12volts. When I hold down lock the blue wire has 12 volts.

I'd do more troubleshooting but a migraine is telling me otherwise. Thanks for the excellent help so far guys.

With the way you have listed the H3 Harness, I am amazed it even started at all.  The RED / White, Red, and RED / Black are suppose to be connected to a constant 12 Volt source.  Pink/White should be used as second ignition.  Pink as Ignition 1.   The Orange and Violet look alright.

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Info on this site says you have a white wire at the ignition harness that needs to be powerd as second ignition.

Yep, if the white second ignition isn't connected properly it will freak out the transmission on older GM's. Some would also throw the check engine light on if they have ABS and you don't connect the brown second accessory.

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Mike M2
Tech Manager
CS Dealer Services

abrrymnvette wrote:

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I think I found the problem with my trans, but not sure. This is how I have it hooked up. I just tested all the wires really quickly.

H3 harness
Pink - Ignition
RED / White - Ignition
Orange - Accessory
Violet - Starter
Red - 12v constant    <---- I think this is my issue. should be ignition
Pink/White - not used
RED / Black - 12v constant


Now for the doors, I just tested with the multimeter at the BCM connections. I'm getting a full 12v when I hold the lock or unlock buttons down. I have white to green and when I hold down unlock the green wire has 12volts. When I hold down lock the blue wire has 12 volts.

I'd do more troubleshooting but a migraine is telling me otherwise. Thanks for the excellent help so far guys.

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hook all of the reds on that thick gauge harness to 12 volts before you cause permanent damage to your transmission...... or take it to somebody qualified.

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A DMM is a beautiful thing.

MECP Advanced Installer Certified.

This is from the install guide. You guys are saying to put the 2,5, and 8th wires all to 12v constant?

https://www.directeddealers.com/manuals/IG/Viper/N4102V_2008_09_web.pdf

There are three harness connections relative to remote start function, including the heavy gauge and input and output harnesses.
➤ Heavy gauge remote start, (H3) 8-pin connector
H3/1 PINK IGNITION 1 INPUT/OUTPUT
H3/2 RED / WHITE (+) FUSED (30A) IGNITION 2 / FLEX RELAY INPUT 87
H3/3 ORANGE ACCESSORY OUTPUT
H3/4 VIOLET STARTER OUTPUT
H3/5 RED(+) FUSED (30A) IGNITION 1 INPUT
H3/6 PINK/WHITE IGNITION 2 / FLEX RELAY OUTPUT 30
H3/7 PINK/BLACK FLEX RELAY INPUT 87A key side (if required) of FLEX RELAY
H3/8 RED / BLACK (+) FUSED (30A) ACCESSORY/STARTER INPUT

zerepdivad wrote:

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hook all of the reds on that thick gauge harness to 12 volts before you cause permanent damage to your transmission...... or take it to somebody qualified.

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X2

The RED / white requires constant +12V supply.

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Installer, IT support, and FFL. I need less hobbies.

abrrymnvette, for your next venture use the search button at the top right of the screen...........

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Got it fixed, thanks to all those that helped out. Much appreciated.

KarTuneMan, I really appreciate your help, it was very integral in me being able to fix my problem. Even after I already did a search and didn't see anything that helped so I posted this thread. Your deep insight into the situation was exactly what was needed.