2003 sonata, wiring diagrams not matching

Putting a R/S in, I've checked the wiring diagrams listed here and on bulldogsecurity for the 2002-2005 Hyundai Sonata. Hooked up the ignition harness wires fine, went to connect the power lock wires and looking for white and lt. blue wires on pins 10 and 11 of the 16 pin plug in the back of the fusebox. I only found 1 16 pin plug, and the 10 and 11 pins are both orange... Is there another diagram out there for this car?

I checked Directwire and it gives the same listing. Can you get at the loom coming from the driver's door and test the wires there?

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

 I checked the Hyundai Service database.   The lock & unlock are infact white(UL) and Lt Blue(L) in the factory service manual.  These wires go from the driver's door switch, through a 25 pin door harness connector (Pins 15L, 6 UL), then to the 16 pin connector on the back of the fuse box (pins 11 L, 10 UL)  to the door lock relays.  The ETACM (Hyundai's BCM) also drives these same wires---same colors---(Pin15L,14UL from the ETACM 20 pin connector.

Note: the back of the fuse box also has a 15 Pin connector.  I looked quickly and found pin 10 of that connector is Orange (Hazard relay power)---You may have the incorrect connector.

The 16 pin connector has 2 parallel rows; 9 positions on 1 row, and 7 seperated positions---3 positions, the interlock tab and 4 more positions on the other row.

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Lectric Guy

Thanks for the help, I guess today I learned that there are power lock wires that rest at +12v and those blue and white wires on pin 11 and 12 are no exception.. although the blue was more like green and the white was more like yellow.

Now I have everything wired up as it should be, but I am not getting any response from the viper 5701. The only thing I can get it to do is trigger a full alarm by holding down the lock button on the remote. I've installed several of these without a problem, and swapped the brain out thinking it was bad...no luck, can't even get it into configuration mode to check the settings.

For programming, the key things you need to verify are:

Power (Viper Red & RED / White) have+12V and the fuses are good.

Ground (verify ground connection is tight on a non-painted surface of the vehicle) 

IGN1 (verify it is getting +12V when the key is ON)

Door trigger(-) (verify it is grounded when the vehicle door is open)

Neutral safety wire (BLACK/ white) is grounded. 

Neutral safety switch is plugged in and on.--May want to ensure switch is good using a continuity check Ohmmeter

Feedback devices(Parking lights and horn or siren) are hooked up correctly.

Antenna is plugged in--And confirm there are no bent pins on the connector at the antenna or brain.

Switch and LED from antenna is plugged in. --May want to ensure switch is good using a continuity check Ohmmeter

If all these ae OK, you should be able to program the unit.

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Lectric Guy

thanks for the troubleshooting steps Lectric Guy! I'll run though these and let you know what happens. I really appreciate these forums and the people that continue to post on them, what a wealth of knowledge...

I discovered a new color wire, which I have thus named "Korean Pink". It is the color that results from the aged tape residue left on wires. It makes normal pink wires appear as a tan/orange color. I guess this is considered a rookie mistake, but I swear I have never seen tape residue change color so much on american cars. Anyway, I would have never figured it out without the trouble shooting steps above, so thanks again!

And the second rule after not assuming is....TEST

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.