clifford 20.7x
Printed From: the12volt.com
Forum Name: Car Security and Convenience
Forum Discription: Car Alarms, Keyless Entries, Remote Starters, Immobilizer Bypasses, Sensors, Door Locks, Window Modules, Heated Mirrors, Heated Seats, etc.
URL: https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp?tid=125937
Printed Date: July 05, 2025 at 2:53 AM
Topic: clifford 20.7x
Posted By: teran54
Subject: clifford 20.7x
Date Posted: January 30, 2011 at 2:51 PM
Hello everyone, I really need your help. I have a 2002 Malibu in which I installed a Clifford 20.7 R/S and a dball bypass. I can't get the R/S to work, also can't get the dball to flash green either but that's another story.
The wiring from Clifford is:
H3/1 Pink to Pink
H3/2 RED / White to Red
H3/3 Orange to Orange
H3/4 Violet to Yellow
H3/5 Red to Red
H3/6 Pink/White to Green
H3/7 Pink/Black not used
H3/8 RED / Black to Red
Does this seem correct?
Below is my ignition harness.
Any help will be appreciated.
Thanks,Joe
12 VOLT CONSTANT RED (+) See NOTE *1 IGNITION SWITCH
STARTER YELLOW (+) See NOTE *1 IGNITION SWITCH
STARTER 2 N/A
IGNITION 1 PINK (+) See NOTE *1 IGNITION SWITCH
IGNITION 2 GREEN (+) See NOTE *1 IGNITION SWITCH
IGNITION 3 N/A
ACCESSORY /HEATER BLOWER 1 ORANGE (+) See NOTE *1HARNESS
ACCESSORY /HEATER BLOWER 2 N/A
Replies:
Posted By: howie ll
Date Posted: January 30, 2011 at 3:59 PM
Does the R/s work if you leave the key in the ignition?
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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.
Posted By: dasbogie
Date Posted: January 30, 2011 at 4:25 PM
Did you use a bypass or how did you get around the passlock II?
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Posted By: smokeman1
Date Posted: January 30, 2011 at 4:26 PM
Have you used a DMM to test and verify the wires in the car? Also, do you have any flashing parking lights if they are connected? Or any clicking from the brain?
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Posted By: teran54
Date Posted: January 30, 2011 at 4:48 PM
howie, I did not try that.
dasbogie, I have the dball bypass which shows red light, but was hoping to at least have the engine crank. After that I wold try flashing the dball.
smokeman1, Yes I do get clicking sounds and light flash about 3 times then remote give error message.
Posted By: smokeman1
Date Posted: January 30, 2011 at 5:43 PM
Should be getting 5, 6, 7, or 8 flashes of the parking lights.
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Posted By: teran54
Date Posted: January 30, 2011 at 6:27 PM
In the very beginning I got 7 flashes and after some reading I realized I was in manual mode after that I got 8 flashes then set the toggle switch to "on", still no go. So I switched some wires around and all I get is the headlights on, but I still get clicking from the brain.
Below is the manual.
 
Posted By: smokeman1
Date Posted: January 30, 2011 at 6:50 PM
Do you have the BLACK/ White wire from the Remote Start Input, 5 pin harness connected to a good ground? (-) Neutral Safety Switch Input
What wires did you switch around??
From the H3 Harness, what wires do you have connected to what on the car? Your wires in the first post looked OK, as long as they tested out OK with a DMM.
------------- When all else fails, Read the Instructions
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Posted By: teran54
Date Posted: January 31, 2011 at 11:40 AM
smokeman1 wrote:
Do you have the BLACK/ White wire from the Remote Start Input, 5 pin harness connected to a good ground? (-) Neutral Safety Switch Input
What wires did you switch around??
From the H3 Harness, what wires do you have connected to what on the car? Your wires in the first post looked OK, as long as they tested out OK with a DMM.
Hello smokeman, I thought about that wire last night and will have to double check that. I only switched the red and pink wires to no avail, I'll put them back.
The problem is that I have to wait till Saturday as my job gets in the way :) In the meantime I'll use my key to warm up the car. :( I 'll keep you posted.
Thanks, Joe
Posted By: teran54
Date Posted: February 02, 2011 at 5:00 PM
Hi smokeman, well I got a nibble today. After clearing the snow today I decided to work on the R/S since there is no way to get to work for a couple of days. I live in Chicago. Anyway I re-soldered the connections back to the way they were and tried to start with the doors closed, so on the last try I opened the door and the engine cranked over but did not start probably due to the db-all bypass not working. Of course now I can't recreate the same situation. One of the odd things is that the doors unlock even though the db-all is not really working.I have one question about the wiring of the db-all, it shows the violet/green and the violet/brown connected to the yellow wire, does this seem correct?
The old 791 bypass had one wire connected to the yellow and one connected to the black wires. I will try again tomorrow.
Joe
Posted By: smokeman1
Date Posted: February 02, 2011 at 5:46 PM
Door open or closed should not be an issue. It should attempt to start three times before it stops and reports a NO START. I can take a unit and bench test it. It will attempt to remote start three times and then stop. Reporting a no start error.
It is sounding like a loose connection. You could take the heavy gauge harness off of the brain and check the pins of that harness on the red, RED / White, and the RED / Black for 12 volts. If that checks out, reconnect it (tightly) and then check the pink and violet wires at the solder joints for voltage when you try to remote start. You should see 12 volts at those wires. Fuses Good??? Check all of you harness to make sure they are firmly connected. Even the antenna connections. ------------- When all else fails, Read the Instructions
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Posted By: teran54
Date Posted: February 03, 2011 at 1:37 PM
The emergency brake has to be engaged for this thing to crank. I had run out of ideas, so I gave that a try, and it worked. This is odd, not only that but it also unlocks my doors which is OK if I had a wire connected to the door circuit. So now I am down to the db-all problem, all I get is the flashing red light. The trouble shooting guide says I may not have it wired correctly, there are only 4 wires and the D2D wires to connect.
Joe
Posted By: smokeman1
Date Posted: February 03, 2011 at 5:17 PM
What wire from the remote start do you have connected to the emergency brake?? And what unlocks the doors?
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Posted By: teran54
Date Posted: February 03, 2011 at 5:54 PM
I don't have any wire connected to the emergency brake. I'm trying to use the least amount of wiring possible. I'm thinking there is some correlation between the e-brake and door unlock because I don't have wire connected to either one.
The main power harness has 7 of 8 wires used.
12 pin harness:
red-constant 12v.
black-ground
brown-horn
white-parking lights
5 pin input harness:
BLACK/ white-neutral safety
violet/white-tach input
brown-brake shutdown
gray-hood pin switch
The rest of the wiring not being used is mainly auxiliary, turbo,diesel and such.
I mainly wanted this R/S to start the car and lock/unlock doors,
and later hook up rear defroster.
Oh and the LCD is a nice touch too.
Joe
Posted By: howie ll
Date Posted: February 04, 2011 at 6:19 AM
BLACK/ white neutral safety to either switch at base of handbrake or warning light on instrument panel.
I know less is more but absolute minimums still have to be done! ------------- Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.
Posted By: teran54
Date Posted: February 04, 2011 at 7:01 PM
According to the manual the BLACK/ white wire should be connected to ground if car is automatic and handbrake if manual trans. But I will give it a try.
Posted By: teran54
Date Posted: February 04, 2011 at 7:35 PM
I did use the wires listed below.
The main power harness has 7 of 8 wires used.
12 pin harness:
red-constant 12v.
black-ground
brown-horn
white-parking lights
5 pin input harness:
BLACK/ white-ground
violet/white-tach input
brown-brake shutdown
gray-hood pin switch
Posted By: teran54
Date Posted: February 12, 2011 at 5:51 PM
OK, I finally got it going. First I had to re-flash the db-all module, it had a Chrysler program in it instead of the Chevy program. So the engine started but only ran 5-8 seconds. After some poking around I found that the brake wire had 5 volts coming out of it causing the R/S to shut down. I figured out that because I was using LED turn signals and tail lights that incorporated resistors in the wiring somehow allowed 5 volts in the brake wire. I returned everything back to original and now it works great.
Thanks to all for your input.
Joe
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