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2008 corvette z06 npp exhaust control

Printed From: the12volt.com
Forum Name: Car Security and Convenience
Forum Discription: Car Alarms, Keyless Entries, Remote Starters, Immobilizer Bypasses, Sensors, Door Locks, Window Modules, Heated Mirrors, Heated Seats, etc.
URL: https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp?tid=126105
Printed Date: May 15, 2024 at 8:47 AM


Topic: 2008 corvette z06 npp exhaust control

Posted By: mrdecrypter
Subject: 2008 corvette z06 npp exhaust control
Date Posted: February 10, 2011 at 1:26 PM

Hello. I need ideas on how to do this project.

The newer corvettes have an exhaust controller that opens or closes flaps based on RPM. To make it loud or quiet.  However, you can control this via a standard mini 10a fuse in the main fuse box that it uses.  If you unplug the fuse, the flaps stay open all the time(Nice, yes). When plugged in, the flaps stay closed unless above 3000 or so RPM.

What i want to do is install some type of controller to control that particular 10a circuit without tapping into the wires. I dont want to cut anything. I have seen vendors sell these for upwards of $200, but i know it can be done cheaper.  They basically use an "Add-a-circuit" on the 10a fuse slot that controls the flaps, but im not entirely familiar with what else is involved with the controller.  They also use a wireless fob to control the circuit for easy on/off access.  I want to do this, but even a regular flip switch would be nice. Either way.

Does anyone know how to do this on the cheap? Yes, i own an expensive vette. Yes, i know i can afford to just buy one from a vendor. But No, my principles don't allow me to pay $200 for $20 in parts that i can do myself.  heh! Thanks for the ideas/suggestions fellas.

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Replies:

Posted By: oldspark
Date Posted: February 10, 2011 at 3:00 PM
It sounds like a POP (Piece Of... er, Pie - an Aussie(?) expression for Easy!).

You simply "bypass" the exhaust fuse with the same fuse (10A) and relay contacts.
Probably NC (Normally Closed) contacts on an SPDT relay (87a & 30) are best so that when off or de-energised, all is normal (ie, not "open").
But could be energised to close the NO (Norm Open) contacts to restore normal operation, otherwise it's open meaning flap open.

A remote control or selector switch to control the relay.
And an IGN +12V source and GND to supply the power to drive the relay (and remote receiver for "zero drain when off").

The relay only needs about 250mA (0.25A) to operate, and a common 30A Automotive relay (~$3?) - preferably the changeover type for either implementation (ie, SPDT; 5 terminals including 87 & 87a terminals).

The remote adds whatever current it takes...
But why not a missile switch on the stick (or T?).... (Fighter pilots looking for remote fobs? LOL!)


Geez - pretty expensive though: A $5-$10 relay with own spade/ATS fuse else a $3-$5 relay and separate fuse holder ($2?); plus a switch ($1-$20?) and its wire to the fusebox (could be GND or +12V switching).
And the "tap" for the original fuse - a butchered old fuse, or male-spade terminals....

And easy to resistor to standard - unplug the fusebox "tap/bypass" and reinsert original fuse.

Wow! How can they do all that for just $200?
Here they sell two 5c diodes in a similar fuse body for $42!! (At least you get a relay and some LOUD enjoyment. We just get a 0.6V boost in our alternator output. {I should say they - they being morons to stupid to save $41 & DIY.})





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