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2005 Volvo XC90, Remote Start

Printed From: the12volt.com
Forum Name: Car Security and Convenience
Forum Discription: Car Alarms, Keyless Entries, Remote Starters, Immobilizer Bypasses, Sensors, Door Locks, Window Modules, Heated Mirrors, Heated Seats, etc.
URL: https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp?tid=126133
Printed Date: April 27, 2024 at 6:50 PM


Topic: 2005 Volvo XC90, Remote Start

Posted By: sandoggg
Subject: 2005 Volvo XC90, Remote Start
Date Posted: February 12, 2011 at 9:29 PM

Hi everyone,

I am installing an Avital 4113 R/S in my 2005 Volvo XC90 and know that I need a key bypass unit.  However, I don't like the idea of leaving a spare key inside a 556UW or any other like it.  I've heard about the Fortin units but is it true that some of the units are keyless?  Like the EVO-ALL or EVO-CAN models?  I've done quite a bit of surfing the web for answers but none convinces me.  This is my second install (first was on my 1991 Nissan Maxima GXE). Once and for all what keyless unit can I use.  If there is none then what is an adequate unit I can use with my system?

Thanks to everyone...



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disco77



Replies:

Posted By: mikvot
Date Posted: February 12, 2011 at 10:08 PM

Most newer units are keyless, but you are not gonna find one for that vehicle. You are gonna have to lose a key.





Posted By: sandoggg
Date Posted: February 24, 2011 at 12:03 AM

I am hooking up a  Ready Remote 24921 to a 2005 Volvo XC90. My r/s hook to the vehicle will be pretty much simple;  ignition wires, ground, brake and door locks only. I don't need all the other accessories connected.  I pretty much figured out how to hook up the r/s to the vehicle ignition wires but could not figure out where to hook up the TBXKEY wires to the R/S.

Is there anything else I need to know as far as the r/s hook up to the vehicle? 

Thanks in advance...



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disco77




Posted By: Twelvoltz
Date Posted: February 24, 2011 at 6:50 AM
DEI calls their Ground While Running wire "status output". This is the wire you would use to trigger the TBXKEY. So connect red to constant fused +12V, black to chassis ground, and blue from the TBXKEY to blue/white of your 24921.

You might have to add a relay and diodes to that blue/white because you need to activate keysense with it too..as I only see one status output on that 24921.

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Installer, IT support, and FFL. I need less hobbies.




Posted By: sandoggg
Date Posted: February 28, 2011 at 10:54 AM

On the TBXKEY European installation it says to cut the wires for a better hook-up.  I've located the factory transponder ring with the green connector (r/h side of steering column) with about six wires. Which wires do I cut and connected to the TBXKEY?  

I have not tried the traditional way (placing the loop over the transponder ring) but I've read problems so I wanted to go the best way... 

Thanks again!



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disco77




Posted By: sandoggg
Date Posted: March 07, 2011 at 9:54 AM

I finished the install of the  Ready Remote 24921 to my 2005 XC90 but unfortunately triggered the SRS light. I did not hook up the BLUE wire like other forums did. I did not know what caused it. Should I have hooked it as ACCESS2?

On the other hand, it would only start with the key in the ignition. I have a TBXKEY (replacement for 556U) for the immobilizer but I think the antenna loop does not work well. I wrapped it around the immobilizer but no luck.

I hooked up the Violet wire of the TBXKEY to the Yellow (keysense) on the vehicle. Do I have to splice this into the IGN2 as well? Can I splice the loop antenna wire into the cylinder? Which color wires are they? There are 6 wires that connect below the ignition cylinder immobilizer.  I do not have the lock/unlock hooked up...does this matter?

Thanks again



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disco77




Posted By: t&t tech
Date Posted: March 07, 2011 at 10:24 AM

Hook up all accesory and ignition wires and see if the error on the srs goes away with the r/s/

You don't have to connect the keysense wire to the ign2 wire. No you can't splice the loop into the cylinder, i don't think you have to cut any of the factory wires, someone else will have to verify this one.



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COMMIT YOUR WAY TO JEHOVAH AND HE WILL ACT IN YOUR BEHALF. PSALMS 37:5




Posted By: sandoggg
Date Posted: March 09, 2011 at 11:07 AM

I'm not really concerned with the SRS right now.  Most likely a dealer reset. 

Is there "right side up"  when placing the key inside the TBXKEY?  Do I have to hook up both Standard and Advance methods?  I have the Standard hook up right now but it still would only start with the key in the ignition.   How about making more than one loop around the ignition cylinder.  All signs lead to the immobilizer system.  I'm stumped??????? 

Thanks everyone...



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disco77




Posted By: ExtremeProAudio
Date Posted: March 09, 2011 at 8:27 PM
On that vehicle, you should make 3-5 loops to get the strongest signal from the bypass. If that doesn't work, use the 556U. It has more windings than any other bypass I have used.




Posted By: blanx218
Date Posted: March 09, 2011 at 9:14 PM
You definitely need to create 3 or more loops around the ignition with the lead from the TBXKEY.




Posted By: sandoggg
Date Posted: March 14, 2011 at 2:41 PM

I finally got the R/S to work.  Surprisingly, I only have one loop over the ignition cylinder.  Once got it to start, I glued it in place and put back the covers...worked like a champ. I'm happy now except for the SRS light. 

I only have the ground, power and status output hooked up on the TBXKEY.  The keysense was hooked up to IGN2.  One thing though, I tried to add more loops by splicing more copper wire but did not work.  It was bare without the insulation around the loops.  So, I took another antenna loop from my extra TBXKEY and used it...no mods.  It worked?  Hummm?

Does the loop have to be insulated?  You would think bare wires would generate more signal to the immobilizer but I guess not.  I'll insulate this one and use it for my other install...2001 Chrysler Sebring.

Thanks for the help everyone...



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disco77




Posted By: heinstal
Date Posted: July 22, 2011 at 10:19 AM

no defintely the wires should be insulated, specially since the the cyclender in metal....makes a big difference.



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~~~WAEL~~~





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