remote start won’t work when cold

My wife's 2007 Ford Edge (without factory remote start) won't start via remote when it's cold out.  If it's above 32-34-ish, the remote functions fine however.  Also, if the car's warmed up it'll remote start just fine regardless of ambient.

The issue is a "no crank".  It tries 3 times like it's supposed to, and each time it cycles the relays and the gauges are tripped - just like they're supposed to - but NO CRANK. 

Is there a cold start trigger that was missed when installing the remote?

Tried two Autopage units and now an Avital.  Any ideas??

Thanks All!!

sounds like a bypass issue, what type of bypass was used? (key in the box or data?) have seen some issues of keys in the box freezing and not working when real cold,(mainly in the boxes with plastic loops wrapped in copper, del 556u, audiovox astcbm) i have used express kit tbkey, and code alarm uti which have a wire loop ribbon cable style loop for the key and had no issues with these and i havent heard or seen any issues with data bypasses but have seen them on 556u and the like

Apart from the key in the box by-pass issue when cold, try increasing the crank time or programming the proper non-virtual tach wire and increasing the engine revs to about 1000RPM whilst programming.

-------------
Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

howie ll wrote:

---

Apart from the key in the box by-pass issue when cold, try increasing the crank time or programming the proper non-virtual tach wire and increasing the engine revs to about 1000RPM whilst programming.

---

I'm going to try another 'key in the box' set-up. 

As for the crank timing adjustment - it doesn't crank at all when it fails to start.  The starter isn't even triggered.

suggestion, if/when trying a new bypass, i would also put the key that is in the box in the freezer to get cold before reprogramming it may help simulate a cold signal so when it gets cold the chip has already been learned cold, dont leave it in the freezer forever just to get it cold

Did I mention that if I start the car with the key (without remoting it) it starts right up - then I can activate the remote starter, take the key out (of the ignition) and the car stays running.  Does that change anyone's thoughts??

It's supposed to run after you remove the key, that's normal.

You need to check the bypass. When it won't start, check the factory theft light. If it still flashes during the RS process it is the bypass that is the problem. You can verify this by placing the key in the switch without turning it on and the car should then start. Make sure the ring is tight and close to the cylinder, this is my leading cause of issues like yours on Fords...

Key in the freezer? common, really?

-------------
Mike M2
Tech Manager
CS Dealer Services

Mike M2 wrote:

---

It's supposed to run after you remove the key, that's normal.

You need to check the bypass. When it won't start, check the factory theft light. If it still flashes during the RS process it is the bypass that is the problem. You can verify this by placing the key in the switch without turning it on and the car should then start. Make sure the ring is tight and close to the cylinder, this is my leading cause of issues like yours on Fords...

Key in the freezer? common, really?

---

I know its supposed to stay running when I remove the key.   I'll give it a try as soon as I can.  Of course this is the first week since October we've seen temps above 40.... figures.

And of course, with these "warm" temps, the car starts everytime!!

yes mike key in the freezer, ford engineer explained this "trick" at an in house ford dealer that installs "ford" and code remote starts as the key was not designed to be expected to ever get that cold as the key would be in customers home/pocket etc. not left in the car, their tech tip to their in house installers was to get the key cold before programming as the vehicle would then learn the weakened signal produced by the transponder, while as in any other tech tip its not a guaranteed fix, its an easy attempt to try, but ring placement and/or stlte of key in box interface are better odds of a fix, while best option is a date module tied into the rx and tx wires

Sounds like you need to run a tach wire or reprogram your virtual tach.

if the starter is not engaging it is definatly a bypass issue. try swaping the key you uses with the key in the bypass module. The best fix would be a data module.

-------------
Solartech Window Tinting and Electronics,contract installer

Went to a legit key-in-the-box and it fired up just fine this morning in 13* weather.  I think it's all good now!

Thanks all!