viper 5902, 98 honda civic ex

hey guys new here and wondering if anyone can help me with the viper 5902 wiring on a 1998 honda civic ex 2 door manual trans., most of the Main harness (H1) is connected but some not to sure what they do or how to hook them up if needed...(will list below on what i'm not to sure of) door locks and unlock works fine, some (H2) harness are connected and most are not (List below), What i need help with the most is the (H3) harness for the remote start as i cant get it to work at all...

Main Harness (H1), 12-pin connector
H1/1 - RED / white - trunk release output    = Not connected
H1/2 - Red - 12v constant input    = connected to white batt wire in ignition harness
H1/3 - Brown - Siren output    = connected to red wire on siren
H1/4 - WHITE/ brown - Parking light isolation wire    = not connected (dont know if needed or what it does)
H1/5 - Black - Ground    = connected to the car ground
H1/6 - Violet - Door Trigger input (+)    = not connected (does this need to be connected? if yes, where to?)
H1/7 - Blue - Trunk pin/ instant trigger    = connected
H1/8 - Green - door trigger (-)   = connected
H1/9 - BLACK/ White - Dome light supervision    = not connected (what does this do and does it need to be connected? if yes, where to?)
H1/10 - WHITE/ Blue - Remote start/ turbo timer activation    = connected to e-brake (do i need this for remote start? if yes, did i connect it right for a manual trans.)
H1/11 - White - Parking light output    = connected (dont know what it does even when alarm is arm no lights flash on the brakes?)
H1/12 - Orange - Ground when armed    = connected to car ground

Door lock, 3-pin connector
Works fine no help needed

H2 Harness, 18-pin connector
H2/1 - H2/8    = not connected, no need
H2/9 - Violet/White - tachometer input    = connected to blue wire under hood on left side of driver fender (dont know if it was the right wire or not and dont know what it does or if needed, also no idea if it works)
H2/10 - H2/14    = not connected, dont know if they are needed fopr anything
H2/15 - Gray - hood pin input    = connected to hood pin under hood
H2/16 - Blue/White - rear defroster output    = not connected (dont know if needed, if so where does it connect to?)
H2/17 - Brown - Break shutdown input    = connected to break switch wire (GREEN / WHITE) not sure if thats right or not, if not where does it connect to?
H2/18 - BLACK/ White - Neutral safety input    = connected to ebrake of car (Dont know if i need to connect it to the ground of the car or e-brake? i have a manual trans.)

NEED HELP ON THIS HARNESS MOSTLY (Look below for my car wiring diagram)
Remote Start, (H3) 10-pin connector
H3/1 - Pink - Ignition 1 input/output    = connected to ign 1 BLACK / YELLOW wire on ignition switch
H3/2 - RED / White - Fused (30A) Ignition 2/ flex relay input 87    = connected to white wire (12v batt wire) on ignition switch
H3/3 - Orange - Accessory output    = connected to WHITE/ Black wire on ignition switch
H3/4 - Violet - Starter output    = i cut the Starter BLACK/ White wire in half and connected this violet wire to the BLACK/ White starter wire on the car side
H3/5 - Green - Starter Input    = i cut the Starter BLACK/ White wire in half and connected this green wire to the BLACK/ White starter wire on the Key side
H3/6 - Red - Fused (30A) Ignition 1 Input    = connected to white wire (12v batt wire) on ignition switch
H3/7 - Pink/White - Ignition 2/ Flex relay output    = connected to the Yellow wire (Ignition 2) on the ignition switch
H3/8 - Pink/Black - Flex relay input 87A Key side (if required) of flex relay    = not connected (not sure if we need to or what it does)
H3/9 - RED / Black - Fused (30A) Accessory/Starter input    = connected to white wire (12v batt wire) on ignition switch

well my main problem is i hooked up my H3 harness just like that above but when i try starting the car with the hd lcd remote, i get remote start not available message on the hd lcd remote screen.

When i try starting the car with the key... i hear no crank and the car does not even start... but there is power to everything else like my ac/heater, radio, and lights... but when i take the H3 harness wire off and connect the 2 starter wires (BLACK/ White) that i have cut in half, then the car starts with a key fine

do i need a relay connected to get the remote start to work? if so how do i connect it with the right wiring? i do have a relay in hand and it looks exactly like this one... (below) which wire goes to which number?


P.S. a 1998 honda civic only has one accessory wire from the ignition if that helps

1998 Honda civic wiring diagram

https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/alarmdetail/1051.html

Here we go

On the h harness u have the orange wire to ground you don't need that, disconnect and isolate, you have the WHITE/ blue hooked up incorrectly as well, this wire takes a pulse from an external source to remote start the vehicle, (such as a button), For the parking lights did you plug the fuse in at the top of the control module? You have to open the door at the top and fuse according to polarity. The rest isn't needed.

You really should test wires before you connect especially that tach wire, you could end up in problems if you don't, the brown brake wire should connect to the wire that gets twelve when the brake is depressed, BLACK/ white to ground, rest is not needed.

Your wiring is correct on the heavy harness, you do not need the pink/black, isolate this wire.

-------------
COMMIT YOUR WAY TO JEHOVAH AND HE WILL ACT IN YOUR BEHALF. PSALMS 37:5

can you label the wires for me like the h2/2 etc for example... not sure what ur talking about when saying blue wire ... loln and whats not needed and whats needed to be connected to what

ok i have hooked up all the wires to the car and everything seems to work besides the violet h3/4 wire... when trying to start the car with a key, h3/4 does not get power from h3/5 but h3/5 does get power just not sending it to the h3/4 wire... any fix for this or is it a bad brain?

Rejoin the BLACK/ white starter wire and just join the violet H3/4.
If the car now starts on the key you have a faulty internal starter/cut-anti/grind relay, change the brain. I'm amazed you've achieved so much with reference to my bye-line, i.e. assuming and not testing.

-------------
Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

what do you mean? just connect the BLACK/ white wire's from the starter that i cut in half together and also keep the violet and green wire together with the starter wire(BLACK/ white), i know that when i plug in the starter wires together that the key will start up the car...

so could it be the brain?

Then you've answered your own question, faulty internal relay either change the brain or rig an external relay;
Orange GWA to 85,ignition from pink to 86, key side starter to 87a, starter side from 30, violet from R/S to 87.

-------------
Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

so where does the wires go to if i use a relay?

85 -whats orange "gwa" what wire is this? and from the car or the harness and if harness what wire?
86 - ignition from pink? from my harness h3/1 wire to 86?
87 - violet from h3/4 wire on harness to 87?
87a - BLACK/ white starter wire from my car to 87a on the relay?
30 - starter side on the car BLACK/ white wire to relay 30?

or could it be that i dont have a accessory 2 in my ignition and thats why there is no power? and a relay is needed... could that be the case
?

Orange is your H1/12 it was in your first post, yes to all the other relay questions.
The pink/white in your last post is to be connected to your second accessory wire and programmed as such. This runs things like wipers etc.
Absolutely nothing to do with starting the car.

-------------
Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

ok i'm getting confused... i dont see that my car has a 2nd accessory on the ignition...

Then why are you asking?
Test.

-------------
Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

i have tryed hooking all possible leads and nothing seems to work... the violet wire does not get power but the green h3 harness wire connected to the key side of the starter wire (BLACK/ white) does...

should the violet wire get power to when all h3 harness is connected right and when u crank the key should the violet wire get power?

1) is it a bad brain?
2) i shouldn't need a relay to connect the remote start right?
3) when remote start wire is connected to the brain and car... i should be able to crank the car up with a key right?

This the bloody third time we've run around in circles here, you just aren't paying attention and I've lost patience!
Also don't you need a by-pass? Have you tested anything?
Your question has been asked and answered twice now, I've told you to either swap the brain..the first resort of the incompetent or even how to do a work round. End of, you're on your own.

-------------
Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

take it easy its just help xD its my first time installing a alarm on a car... got to start some where... but no worrys i sent the brain back for a swap so within the next 3-4 days i will get a new replacement and hopefuly that new brain is not as dumb as the old one i just sent back =P but thanks for all the help howie ... i'll be back in a few days if i cant seem to get it up and running =P

I rarely hear of these relays going bad from the box, i say hear cuz it's never happened with me, lol, you're probly really bad lucky or are you?

-------------
COMMIT YOUR WAY TO JEHOVAH AND HE WILL ACT IN YOUR BEHALF. PSALMS 37:5

hi, back again and with the same problem...

ok so here is the 411 on my situation... thought the brain was defective... sent it back got a new one... plug it all in but nothing seems to work... i cant start the car with a key or the remote start...

am i pluging the wires in wrong or something? its a 1998 honda civic ex coupe

here is what i plug the wires into...

Remote Start, (H3) 10-pin connector
H3/1 - Pink - Ignition 1 input/output    = connected to ign 1 BLACK / YELLOW wire on ignition switch
H3/2 - RED / White - Fused (30A) Ignition 2/ flex relay input 87    = connected to white wire (12v batt wire) on ignition switch
H3/3 - Orange - Accessory output    = connected to WHITE/ Black wire on ignition switch
H3/4 - Violet - Starter output    = i cut the Starter BLACK/ White wire in half and connected this violet wire to the BLACK/ White starter wire on the car side
H3/5 - Green - Starter Input    = i cut the Starter BLACK/ White wire in half and connected this green wire to the BLACK/ White starter wire on the Key ignition side
H3/6 - Red - Fused (30A) Ignition 1 Input    = connected to white wire (12v batt wire) on ignition switch
H3/7 - Pink/White - Ignition 2/ Flex relay output    = connected to the Yellow wire (Ignition 2) on the ignition switch
H3/8 - Pink/Black - Flex relay input 87A Key side (if required) of flex relay    = not connected (not sure if we need to or what it does)
H3/9 - RED / Black - Fused (30A) Accessory/Starter input    = connected to white wire (12v batt wire) on ignition switch



connected the wires as they should but nothing is working... i have reconnected the starter wire and the car turns on with a key but no remote start... can anyone help me? what do i need to get this working... i'm a noob (first time) so please be really specific on what i need or do to get this working... everything else works fine just not the remote start

p.s. trying to get this up and running by today....

YET AGAIN BY-PASS?
Does it remote start with the key in the ignition?

-------------
Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

it does not start with the key so i dont think it will... also when i click the remote start on the pager it says "remote start not available" and lights flash 7 times indicating from what the manual book said it means "mts mode not enable" but i follow the instruction on enabling it and still it doesnt enable or nothing flash or connects...

here is how i tryed to enable mts mode...

Note: ebreak is not on as i'm stepping on the break before turning the engine on...

1)start the engine (all wires connected "starter wire (BLACK/ white) is connected back together and violet and green are connected to the starter wire also) with foot on the break and not in gear... then release the clutch and pull the ebreak, and open the driver door after

2)release the foot break after

3)within less then 20 sec i push any button on the pager remote then waited 20 sec more then stepped on the foot break and release again

the vehicle light should flash 5 times but nothing happens here... did i do the enabling mts mode wrong?

p.s. why do i need a bypass? aint that for cars that have a chip in the key ignition or something like that? thats what i read on some other forum and that the 1996-2000 model civics dont need a bypass, correct me if i'm wrong

You have a manual transmission right? If so you have to hook up the parking brake wire, door trigger, tach wire and bypass the clutch since you have to trick the car in to thinking the clutch is engaged.

To do clutch bypass run your starter wires to the BLACK/ red starter wire above the driver kick panel instead of the starter wire at the ignition harness.

BLACK/ White on H2 goes to parking brake wire which is RED / green in the drivers kick panel.

You can grab a tach signal at the blue connector above the fuse box which is a blue wire between a WHITE/ blue and red wire.
Learn tach by starting the car with the key, then press and hold the valet button till the LED stays on solid.

Green on H1 goes to your door trigger wire which is lt. GREEN/ red in driver kick panel harness running to the rear of the vehicle.

Now you need to enter manual transmission mode. Start the car with the key and close all the doors. Put the transmission in neutral. Press on the brake. Apply the parking brake. Release the foot brake.   Within 15 seconds hit the remote start button on the viper unit. Parking lights will flash 5 times confirming the remote start system is ready. Turn off the ignition and the car will stay running. Exit the car and then lock the doors using the viper unit. You will have to do this everytime you get out of the car if you want to remote start it the next time. If you unlock it or open the doors or the hood it will not remote start until you repeat this process.

and you do not need a bypass. you just need to move your starter wires to that BLACK/ red I mentioned.

really helpful but confused about this part

"To do clutch bypass run your starter wires to the BLACK/ red starter wire above the driver kick panel instead of the starter wire at the ignition harness."

can u be more specific? what wire to the BLACK/ red starter wire? and what do i need to connect?

on the viper harness i still have the violet and green and what about the BLACK/ white starter wire from the ignition? do i connect the BLACK/ white starter wire from the ignition back together? can u label what goes where? i'll go check my car now to see if i can find a BLACK/ red starter wire and is it a fat BLACK/ red or just a small kind?

also is this the tech wire? its under the hood far driver side next to the fender in a rubber black casing... i'm pointing at it... is that a tech wire also? cause i have it hook up to that but not sure

Tach can be found here.


Starter Wire is here. Purple to car side. Green to key side. And yes reconnect the BLACK/ White starter wire like you never cut it.

ok still a little confused let me try to figuer what your saying ... ok

1) so the BLACK/ white starter wire from the ignition is wired back together as if it was never cut...

2) the BLACK/ red starter wire above the driver kick panel cut that in half and the violet and green wires from th viper connects to the BLACK/ red wire from the car correct? confusing but let me clean it up in pictures lol

              BLACK/ red wire from car
        |
          ---
8-pin   | |
connector | |======================= Key side? i assume
side    | |
          ---

then you cut it in half

BLACK/ red wire from car
        |
          ---           |
8-pin   | |           |
connector | |======== cut    ======== Key side? i assume
side    | |           |
          ---           |

then u wire it like this?

BLACK/ red wire from car
        |
          ---           |
8-pin   | |           |
connector | |======== cut    ======== Key side? i assume
side    | |     |     |        |
          ---     |     |        |
   |        Green wire form
   |        viper H3 harness
   |
           violet wire from
           viper H3 harness

correct me if i'm wrong....

Again on your last post you've written key side ASSUMED.
Don't EVER assume, test.

-------------
Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

buddholly should know what i am talking about... its the BLACK/ red wire that he was talking about... i think e ment to tell me to cut it but not sure trying to confirm if what i just post was the right way

For now I would just connect the purple wire on H1 to the BLACK/ red and don't worry about the green on the H1. It will start like that.

As far as your tach question, I really don't know if thats the right wire or not without having the vehicle in front of me. Start the car with the key, press and hold the button on the antenna (the thing that has the blue light on it, if the blue LED comes on after a few seconds it should have learned the tach signal (You have to do this or it won't work, so make sure you are doing this) Since it doesnt sound like you have a multimeter I would just move it to the wire that's pictured above.

i do have a multi meter but how can u tell if its a tech wire or not?

also so for the violet wire i just hook it up to the BLACK/ red starter wire right? but dont cut the BLACK/ red starter wire in half right? need a confirmation on do i cut the BLACK/ red or not

ok good news and bad news.....


GOOD NEWS:
i got remote start to work.....


Bad news:
every time i turn off remote start, i need to repeat the steps to get mts mode for remote start to work next time


so how do we set it so that the remote start works every time when pushing the remote start button

The tach wire is also the one you found under the hood.
Take a DMM set it to 20VAC , red probe to wire, black probe to ground and with engine idling you will get 3-5 volts AC. This will increase slightly if you rev up.
Ref the clutch switch, I suppose this is too obvious but the the clutch switch is the switch side, cut it and the other side is the motor side.

-------------
Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

Also the switch side of the BLACK/ red is the side that when you cut it gives you 12 volts on turning the key to the start (cranking) position.

-------------
Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

a little confused howie when ur talking about the BLACK/ red wire...

first off lets clear this up... right now i have only the violet wire hooked up to the BLACK/ red wire from the car... and its not cut...

so do i need the green wire from my H3 viper harness?

lets say i do cut the BLACK/ red wire... and used a dmm, one side should give 12v and the other nothing on crack position right? so the side with the 12v on BLACK/ red wire goes to what viper harness wire? violet or green? and the other viper wire (green or violet)will go to the other end of the BLACK/ red wire that gives no voltage when crack right? correct me if i'm wrong

main question is what viper harness wire (violet or green) goes to the 12v end BLACK/ red wire?

and if both are connected will i always have to setup the mts mode when i want to remote start the car? cause i want to make it so that i only need to set it to mts mode once and every time i want to remote start or deactivate remote start i can just push the button on the pager, is this possible?

Violet to the side that goes to 12volts on start position, green to the other side.
MTS mode needs to be set up every time you leave the car.

-------------
Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

so for the remote start it needs to be set up every time for all cars? is there any way we can set it up only once and dont have to set it up every time we leave the car?

NO

-------------
Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

thats lame... whats the point then lol if u need to do it every time.

It's called "Manual Transmission Reservation Mode".  It is necessary on all manual transmission cars to ensure the car is in neutral and running after you exit the car and close all the doors.  Then it locks all the doors (and shuts off the engine) to prevent the gear shifter from being moved into gear prior to the next remote start.  It is a safety issue to prevent the car from being remote started in gear.  It has to be done every time to ensure the car is left in neutral. 

( This discussion is about a Honda so we won't mention Subaru's. )

-------------
Soldering is fun!

is there anyway we can bypass or go around this so that we dont have to set it up every time? some one some where should know how to get around this right?

Sure but your safety and safety of the people around you are important to us.  Check YouTube for some great videos of cars that the remote start installer bypassed important safety features.

-------------
Soldering is fun!

kreg357 wrote:

---

Sure but your safety and safety of the people around you are important to us.  Check YouTube for some great videos of cars that the remote start installer bypassed important safety features.

---

as much as i care about others... i never leave my car in gear when i park lol so no biggie... any idea how to bypass the res. mode?

Ah yes those famous last words, "but I never leave it in gear" and yes it can be done but we ain't going to tell you how so forget it and keep away from the liability suits.

-------------
Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

no liability suit will be file no worrys can i get some inside to how to get it working... any link or guides i can follow?

what will happen if i remove the 2 clutch sensor above the clutch? will my car start with just a push of a remote start button? and if i do will i still need to keep setting up the res. mode for remote start?


rather ask then try and harm some one or my self xD

No No No No

-------------
Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

no no no? whats wrong xD

It is a violation of the forum rules to provide information that would render a safety device inoperative or circumvent a safety device.  I agree that setting Reservation Mode is a pain but that was the way it was designed by the manufacturer and the only way to ensure a safe remote start.  Viper goes further and warns against installation in convertibles, etc. 

After a while, it will become second nature and not really slow you down too much.   Of course, wait until you find out that opening any door prior to a remote start will cancel reservation mode....

-------------
Soldering is fun!

ok i guess your right in a way... i'm good as is then thanks alot...


P.S does any one here know any good lowering springs (not coilovers) that would drop like 3-4 inches on a 1998 honda civic ex coupe? a link or model name would be helpful thanks for everything... you guys are great...

ok i have some questions here... looking at the feature menus on menu 2 - convenience, menu #1 "one-time Bypass" which default is off


what does this do and what happens if i turn it on?


another one is menu 3 - Remote Start, menu #16 "Remote Start safelock" which default is off


what does this do and what happens if i turn it on?

One-time bypass allows you to temporarily bypass passive arming. once you disarm the alarm it resets. Only used if you're using passive arming.

Remote start safelock is a feature that locks/re-locks the doors after the car remote starts and after it shuts down. If its left off the doors will remain in the status they were when started. i.e. if you forgot to lock the doors then remote start, the doors will remain unlocked.

ok really helpful thanks alow you guys here are the best forum yet xD

ok i have another question lol... for the window roll up and down... is there a way we can set it to a aux on the viper pager? or for roll up and down on 1 aux needs to have a module?


if it doesnt how can we hoot that up...

if it does how would you hook up window roll up and down on an aux? if both can be put onto 1 or if needed on 2 aux


any help would be great

I take it you're purchasing a 530t for each pair of windows because you failed to mention it.
Wire directly to the motor wires in each door, use the orange GWA wire to close and an aux wire to vent/open and most of all RTFM.

-------------
Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

actually i'm not buying a 530t at all... i'm trying to find out how to wire it up just using the normal aux wires from the viper unit(brain).



kinda figured it out but need a little insight...

1) the circle aux bottun on the viper pager... what color wire is that on the viper unit harness wire? H1/1? H2/1? etc. (be specific on the wire)

2) when holding the trunk release wire... can we hook that wire from the viper unit to the window down wire on the car? and can you change the image of the trunk release to a window roll down image?

And now you expect some rational comments?

-------------
Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

Lol, This thread is way to long, anyway you need window modules and as howard mentioned 530t's are the best way to go.

-------------
COMMIT YOUR WAY TO JEHOVAH AND HE WILL ACT IN YOUR BEHALF. PSALMS 37:5

so what wire from the viper brain is connected to the aux button on the viper pager?

so if i hook up all the aux wires up and if i push the aux button on pager will all the aux wire be active?

also what does the Comfort Closure feature mean and what does it do also

The auxillaries are programmable on that unit, however the default i believe is the RED / white wire.

Comfort closure doesn't apply to you, it's only for vehicles with the windows that roll up on lock,( mostly euro vehicles), Howard would be better able to explain.

-------------
COMMIT YOUR WAY TO JEHOVAH AND HE WILL ACT IN YOUR BEHALF. PSALMS 37:5

This post is rapidly becoming the longest and silliest ever.
Total or comfort close is a facility on certain European cars, yours doesn't have it so forget it.
I know where you're going with your comments on aux outputs, it won't work, you will either destroy your second 5902 or burn out the window motors.

-------------
Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.