Print Page | Close Window

viper 5701, xk01, 2004 tahoe

Printed From: the12volt.com
Forum Name: Car Security and Convenience
Forum Discription: Car Alarms, Keyless Entries, Remote Starters, Immobilizer Bypasses, Sensors, Door Locks, Window Modules, Heated Mirrors, Heated Seats, etc.
URL: https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp?tid=126362
Printed Date: September 20, 2024 at 8:20 PM


Topic: viper 5701, xk01, 2004 tahoe

Posted By: bndawgs
Subject: viper 5701, xk01, 2004 tahoe
Date Posted: February 28, 2011 at 6:51 PM

Installed a viper 5701 along with an XK01 module in my 2004 tahoe.

Have two issues now.

First one:

When I remote start the truck, it starts up and then dies right away. It will try this 3 times and then it stops.

I hooked up the tach wire at the instrument cluster and I also did the tach learn with the valet button.

Just wondering do I need to change the tach setting on the viper brain?


Second issue:

For the front door triggers, I hooked up the viper H1/8 green wire to the XK01 violet/white wire. For the rear doors, I hooked up the XK01 pink wire to both rear door wires at the purple bcm plug.

Now, whenever I open up the rear doors, the truck alarm starts sounding and the only way to get it to stop is to hit the panic button on the oem remote.

Any ideas on these issues from the experts? Any help is appreciated.

Thanks.




Replies:

Posted By: pitoaudiovisual
Date Posted: March 01, 2011 at 11:52 AM
First make sure that the truck learned the tach it should flash saying that it was programmed but it will give a sequence to let u know if the tach is good or bad. The best tach is at the fuel injector which is any wire that is not pink. As far as the alarm going off you have to connect the factory disarm wire so that your viper can turn it off.

-------------
Confidence is the key to any project!!




Posted By: bndawgs
Date Posted: March 01, 2011 at 12:14 PM
I did do the tach learning through the valet switch. And it blinked to say it was programmed.   Does my truck use less than 12 volts to start? Maybe I need to switch the tach threshold jumper?

I'm wondering if maybe I need to hook up the h2/1 and h2/2 wires for the factory arm/disarm? Currently I don't since I thought the module is handling that function.




Posted By: kreg357
Date Posted: March 01, 2011 at 2:58 PM

General question:  Did you flash the XK01 with AMDL Ver 6.01 firmware?  Did it program to the Tahoe OK?

On the Tach issue:  Did you change Viper  Menu 3, Menu Item 2 to Option 4?  Did you verify the Tach wire with a DMM?  Then do
the Tach Learn process?

For the rear door triggers: Connect the rear door triggers from the BCM along with the XK01 Violet/White
to Viper 5701 H1/8 Green wire.  Diode isolate all three wires. 

Follow the Diagram but use the XK01 Violet/White wire (for the front doors) and the two rear door trigger wires going to the Viper H1/8.

 https://www.bulldogsecurity.com/diagrams/extrainfo/diagrams/30607_YUKON_(-)%20NEGATIVE%20DOOR%20PIN%20ISOLATION%20CIRCUIT.pdf 

(The DRIVERS REAR DOOR is a LIGHT BLUE/BLACK (-) Pin A3 and the PASSENGERS REAR DOOR is a LIGHT GREEN/ BLACK (-)
Pin A2, both are located at the BCM, PURPLE plug.)



-------------
Soldering is fun!




Posted By: smokeman1
Date Posted: March 01, 2011 at 5:42 PM
I would try the changing of the tach jumper.  I was always having problems getting my Ford Taurus to do the tach. It would learn it but not use it until I changed the tach jumper.  As Kreg357 mentioned the brain needs to be set for tach, so don't forget to check that also.

-------------
When all else fails, Read the Instructions
Support the12volt.com Make a Donation




Posted By: bndawgs
Date Posted: March 01, 2011 at 9:39 PM
well, i think this POS module is done. Tried to get it programmed, but it wouldn't start the programming sequence.

I unplugged it and then plugged it back in. The light didn't stay on red as the instructions say.

Was able to get it into programming mode and tried to reset it, which i think i did. but still was unable to get it blink the 4 times for my truck. And now i think it's just completely locked up as the led is on all the time and won't turn off or blink.

kreg, you could be right about the firmware version. Module just says AMDL, but no version #. Of course the ad says it comes with the most updated version. But I didnt buy it directly from xpresskit.

The reason I'm thinking it might not be v 6, is because it allowed me to do some of the features, such as locking/unlocking the doors with the alarm remote. But now that it's all locked up solid red, it won't let me lock the doors with the alarm remote.

So unless anyone has any other ideas, I guess I'm off to order a new module directly from xpresskits.




Posted By: kreg357
Date Posted: March 02, 2011 at 4:08 AM

Have you made the XK01 wiring changes for the door trigger circuit?   The XK01 Pink wire should not be connected to anything, it is only used with Type 2 & 7 vehicle installs.

Did you get the Vipers' Tach programming changed and does the Tahoe start and stay running?  If it does, then the module is at least doing the bypass function.

I'm assuming you have the XK01 connected to the Viper via the D2D cable.  Check the bypass jumpers on the Viper, they should be set to horizontal.

Might be cheaper to buy the XKLoader USB cable and re-flash the one you have.  A re-flash will reset the module.   If you have a friendly auto shop locally, they might do it for you.  The firmware version may not be critical for a 2004 vehicle, the firmware updates are to support new vehicles and should still be downward compatible for older vehicles.  The firmware sticker on the module is what was loaded at the factory.  I have purchased "new old stock" from places where they were re-flashed with something else ( there are 13 different firmwares available for the XK01...) so I always verify ( and update ) the modules firmware with the XKLoader cable prior to use.

Personally, I am not a big fan of the XK01's or D2D wiring.  If you decide to get another module, take a look at the iDatalink ADS-ALSL GM, ADS-DLSL GM or ADS-DLSL GM1.  https://www.idatalink.com/support/helpdesk   The SOLO Series bypass modules ( orange box ) come pre-loaded with the correct firmware.  Connect the ADS bypass to the Viper in W2W mode.   Well written install guide that is easy to follow and very easy programming.



-------------
Soldering is fun!




Posted By: bndawgs
Date Posted: March 02, 2011 at 7:58 AM
So I did do the tach learn and the valet led stayed lit to confirm. But the truck still cut off right away. I do have it wired w2w though, but I just checked and the jumpers are horizontal. So there is one issue.

I originally wanted to get the idatalink, but I couldn't find it anywhere online here stateside. And I couldn't see paying $40 for shipping on a $50 item.

I tried to order it from some place in NY, but they never fulfilled my order or returned any emails.   Probably a scam website just to get my cc info. So don't bother ordering from installation products inc.

I might go with the idatalink if I could get it at a good price. But it would have to be worthwhile for me, since I already made quite a few connections with the xk01.

-------------
<--------   Stayed at a Holiday Inn express last night




Posted By: bndawgs
Date Posted: March 02, 2011 at 8:08 AM
kreg357 wrote:

Have you made the XK01 wiring changes for the door trigger circuit?   The XK01 Pink wire should not be connected to anything, it is only used with Type 2 & 7 vehicle installs.


I haven't done anything with the rear doors yet.  I was wanting to get the RS working first, since I'm pretty sure that I had the two doors hooked up to the wrong wire and it would be a relatively easy fix.



-------------
<--------   Stayed at a Holiday Inn express last night




Posted By: kreg357
Date Posted: March 02, 2011 at 8:38 AM

W2W is good.  If you are using W2W, the Vipers' D2D jumper position shouldn't matter.  Your connections should look like this:

XK01                    Viper / Tahoe
Black                Chassis ground  (Viper H1/5)
Red                  +12v constant (Viper H1/2)
Orange            (-) Disarm (Viper H2/1)
Violet                Tahoe ODB 2 Connector, Pin 2 (usually Violet)
Violet/White     (-) Door Trigger Input (Viper H1/8) ***see previous post to add rear doors
Blue                   (-) Unlock  (Viper Blue wire on 3 Pin Lock Connector)
Green                (-) Lock   (Viper Green wire on 3 Pin Lock Connector)
Brown                (-) 200mA Status Output (Blue wire)

Any security type lights on the dash?  The Tahoe starts OK with the key?



-------------
Soldering is fun!




Posted By: bndawgs
Date Posted: March 02, 2011 at 9:18 AM
kreg357 wrote:

W2W is good.  If you are using W2W, the Vipers' D2D jumper position shouldn't matter.  Your connections should look like this:

XK01                    Viper / Tahoe
Black                Chassis ground  (Viper H1/5)
Red                  +12v constant (Viper H1/2)
Orange            (-) Disarm (Viper H2/1)
Violet                Tahoe ODB 2 Connector, Pin 2 (usually Violet)
Violet/White     (-) Door Trigger Input (Viper H1/8) ***see previous post to add rear doors
Blue                   (-) Unlock  (Viper Blue wire on 3 Pin Lock Connector)
Green                (-) Lock   (Viper Green wire on 3 Pin Lock Connector)
Brown                (-) 200mA Status Output (Blue wire)

Any security type lights on the dash?  The Tahoe starts OK with the key?


Yup, truck starts fine with the key.  I believe the OEM lock icon comes on when the truck shuts down after RS. 

The only difference I have from your connections is that I don't have the XK01 orange hooked up.   And of course i currently have the rear doors diode connected to the pink wire, which I know i need to change. 

With the orange XK01 not hooked up, that woudn't cause it to immediately cut off after RS would it?   Because I used to be able to control the locks with the viper remote.



-------------
<--------   Stayed at a Holiday Inn express last night




Posted By: kreg357
Date Posted: March 02, 2011 at 7:23 PM

Does the Tahoe have the Factory alarm?  If it doesn't then the Orange Disarm wire doesn't matter.

Sure sounds like a bypass problem.  Disconnect the Pink wire and try to program it to Type 4 again.  Resetting the XK01 with a re-flash of the AMDL firmware would be the best way to start over...



-------------
Soldering is fun!




Posted By: bndawgs
Date Posted: March 02, 2011 at 7:51 PM
kreg357 wrote:

Does the Tahoe have the Factory alarm?  If it doesn't then the Orange Disarm wire doesn't matter.

Sure sounds like a bypass problem.  Disconnect the Pink wire and try to program it to Type 4 again.  Resetting the XK01 with a re-flash of the AMDL firmware would be the best way to start over...




Not an actual alarm, just the standard horn honking function if the doors are unlocked and opened without using the remote or key to unlock the door.

I'm pretty sure the module needs to be reflashed like you said. I'm debating between sticking with the XK01 or looking into getting the idatalink. know anywhere to get one here in the US?

-------------
<--------   Stayed at a Holiday Inn express last night




Posted By: bndawgs
Date Posted: March 04, 2011 at 7:57 PM
Well, still no luck. I reflashed the module and programmed it to vehicle type 4.

Still starts up and then dies right away. However, when I open the rear doors, the truck horn doesn't go off now.

I'm going to work extending the crank time to see if that does anything.

stupid question, but i still haven't installed the hood pin yet. If that was the problem, it would give me the error tone correct?


-------------
<--------   Stayed at a Holiday Inn express last night




Posted By: bndawgs
Date Posted: March 04, 2011 at 8:08 PM
extending the crank time doesn't help.

Has to do with the bypass somehow. Oem lock flashes on the dash with the RS.

-------------
<--------   Stayed at a Holiday Inn express last night




Posted By: bndawgs
Date Posted: March 08, 2011 at 7:25 PM
re-flashed the module. plugged it in, led turned on. good so far. turned the key on, and got it to flash 4 times. then i held the button down and it blinked once and then stayed lit. then started the truck and the led went out. tried locking the truck, and the module led blinked once. same as when i unlocked it.

then tried to RS it and still cuts out right after starting. i then started it with the key and then hit the RS button. turned off the key and the truck was still running. hit the brake and it shut off.(so at least i know the brake wire works. posted_image)

so for whatever reason, it just isn't bypassing the passlock2 system.

i'm wondering when i got the led to blink 4 times and then held the button, if holding the button caused it to go back to blinking 1 time? so maybe i should let it blink 3 times and then hold it down?

but would it still talk to the truck for the door locks if it was programmed to vehicle 1 type?

-------------
<--------   Stayed at a Holiday Inn express last night




Posted By: buddholly
Date Posted: March 09, 2011 at 12:45 PM
Are you connecting the brown wire on the XK01 to the blue status wire on the Viper after you learn the resistance?




Posted By: bndawgs
Date Posted: March 09, 2011 at 12:52 PM

buddholly wrote:

Are you connecting the brown wire on the XK01 to the blue status wire on the Viper after you learn the resistance?

yes, i do have the brown xk01 wire connected to the blue status wire from the 5701 brain.  But I connected it before I plugged in the XK01 module. 

Are you saying to connect that wire after everything else is hooked up?



-------------
<--------   Stayed at a Holiday Inn express last night




Posted By: buddholly
Date Posted: March 09, 2011 at 1:08 PM
My fault, I was thinking of programming an XK06. So when you remote start it does it try to crank? Could try switching your brown wire to the blue/white on the viper...where did you go for your tach signal?




Posted By: bndawgs
Date Posted: March 09, 2011 at 1:20 PM

buddholly wrote:

My fault, I was thinking of programming an XK06. So when you remote start it does it try to crank? Could try switching your brown wire to the blue/white on the viper...where did you go for your tach signal?

when i remote start it, it starts and then dies right away and the oem lock icon flashes on the guage cluster.  I picked up the tach signal behind the guage cluster, white wire.

for whatever reason, it's not bypassing the passlock2 system, because i started the truck with the key, then hit the remote start button and was able to take out the key and it kept running. 

this weekend my next step is to take the brown xk01 wire and just ground it, then hit the remote start to see what that does.  if it starts and keeps running, then i know that the blue status wire from the viper is dead and then i'll try that 2nd status wire the blue/white one.   



-------------
<--------   Stayed at a Holiday Inn express last night




Posted By: Twelvoltz
Date Posted: March 09, 2011 at 6:38 PM
It sounds like you are programming it correctly.

What is the make and model of your system?

Are you using D2D or W2W?

-------------
Installer, IT support, and FFL. I need less hobbies.




Posted By: bndawgs
Date Posted: March 09, 2011 at 8:10 PM
Twelvoltz wrote:

It sounds like you are programming it correctly.

What is the make and model of your system?

Are you using D2D or W2W?


It's a 2004 tahoe and I'm using w2w

-------------
<--------   Stayed at a Holiday Inn express last night




Posted By: blanx218
Date Posted: March 09, 2011 at 9:38 PM

Did you connect the 2nd ACC wire? I've seen a handful of GM SUV's and trucks do exactly what you're describing if the 2nd ACC isnt hooked up. Using the small orange (-) output 2nd acc and a relay could take care of this. Its worth the 5 minutes to hook up the relay for this rather than continuing to be frustrated with something that may not be the problem.

Just an FYI: An immobilizer system like Passlock2 only comes into play when the engine is started, not the entire time the car is running. So when you start the truck with the key and activate "stop and go" mode the xk01 isnt telling the car anything.





Posted By: bndawgs
Date Posted: March 11, 2011 at 7:34 AM
blanx218 wrote:

Did you connect the 2nd ACC wire? I've seen a handful of GM SUV's and trucks do exactly what you're describing if the 2nd ACC isnt hooked up. Using the small orange (-) output 2nd acc and a relay could take care of this. Its worth the 5 minutes to hook up the relay for this rather than continuing to be frustrated with something that may not be the problem.

Just an FYI: An immobilizer system like Passlock2 only comes into play when the engine is started, not the entire time the car is running. So when you start the truck with the key and activate "stop and go" mode the xk01 isnt telling the car anything.


I didn't do the 2nd ACC wire, but it's something i could definitely try like you said.  For my own learning, what would adding a relay for that do in regards to the Xk01?  Would it just give it more power?

As far as the truck running after activating the remote start after starting with the key, I guess I was more or less just confirming to myself that all my connections into the ignition harness were correct and didn't have anything to do with the problems i'm having now. 



-------------
<--------   Stayed at a Holiday Inn express last night




Posted By: bndawgs
Date Posted: March 12, 2011 at 9:40 AM
kreg357 wrote:

W2W is good.  If you are using W2W, the Vipers' D2D jumper position shouldn't matter.  Your connections should look like this:

XK01     Viper / Tahoe
Black                Chassis ground  (Viper H1/5)
Red                  +12v constant (Viper H1/2)
Orange            (-) Disarm (Viper H2/1)
Violet                Tahoe ODB 2 Connector, Pin 2 (usually Violet)
Violet/White     (-) Door Trigger Input (Viper H1/8) ***see previous post to add rear doors
Blue                   (-) Unlock  (Viper Blue wire on 3 Pin Lock Connector)
Green                (-) Lock   (Viper Green wire on 3 Pin Lock Connector)
Brown                (-) 200mA Status Output (Blue wire)

Any security type lights on the dash?  The Tahoe starts OK with the key?





For some reason I had the XKO1 orange wire hooked up to the blue status wire. Which is really weird, because I thought I already had the XKO1 brown hooked up to the blue status wire.

So now the remote start works. Which is really nice.

Just have one more wire to hook up for the factory disarm output to the XKO1 and then I think i'm done.



-------------
<--------   Stayed at a Holiday Inn express last night




Posted By: excelon2001
Date Posted: October 22, 2011 at 3:02 PM
kreg357 wrote:

General question:  Did you flash the XK01 with AMDL Ver 6.01 firmware?  Did it program to the Tahoe OK?

On the Tach issue:  Did you change Viper  Menu 3, Menu Item 2 to Option 4?  Did you verify the Tach wire with a DMM?  Then do
the Tach Learn process?

For the rear door triggers: Connect the rear door triggers from the BCM along with the XK01 Violet/White
to Viper 5701 H1/8 Green wire.  Diode isolate all three wires. 

Follow the Diagram but use the XK01 Violet/White wire (for the front doors) and the two rear door trigger wires going to the Viper H1/8.

 https://www.bulldogsecurity.com/diagrams/extrainfo/diagrams/30607_YUKON_(-)%20NEGATIVE%20DOOR%20PIN%20ISOLATION%20CIRCUIT.pdf 

(The DRIVERS REAR DOOR is a LIGHT BLUE/BLACK (-) Pin A3 and the PASSENGERS REAR DOOR is a LIGHT GREEN/ BLACK (-)
Pin A2, both are located at the BCM, PURPLE plug.)


 




Kreg357

I am planning a Avital 5303 install in a 2004 rainier using the xk01 amdl 6.0 and read that I will also require separate rear door connections. You link seems to be dead could you explain to me how this would work




Posted By: excelon2001
Date Posted: October 22, 2011 at 3:09 PM
sorry I found the problem the correct link should have () around the - following the YOKON like so

https://www.bulldogsecurity.com/diagrams/extrainfo/diagrams/30607_YUKon_(-)%20NEGATIVE%20DOOR%20PIN%20ISOLATIon%20CIRCUIT.pdf




Posted By: excelon2001
Date Posted: October 22, 2011 at 3:12 PM
Still dont work in either IE or Chrome for some reason when you click the links the () are missing add them in and it will work




Posted By: kreg357
Date Posted: October 23, 2011 at 6:08 AM

Sorry about that link.  Not sure why it's not working.  Here is another way to get to that diagram. 

Go to Bulldog Security at :  https://www.bulldogsecurity.com/bdnew/vehiclewiringdiagrams.asp
Look up the 2003 - 2006 GMC Yukon.
Half way down the wire guide listing, at the far right column of the Door Trigger line, is the link to the door trigger isolation diagram.



-------------
Soldering is fun!





Print Page | Close Window