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viper 211 keyless entry

Printed From: the12volt.com
Forum Name: Car Security and Convenience
Forum Discription: Car Alarms, Keyless Entries, Remote Starters, Immobilizer Bypasses, Sensors, Door Locks, Window Modules, Heated Mirrors, Heated Seats, etc.
URL: https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp?tid=126385
Printed Date: April 29, 2024 at 1:07 AM


Topic: viper 211 keyless entry

Posted By: fatmax
Subject: viper 211 keyless entry
Date Posted: March 01, 2011 at 8:49 PM

I have a 79 F-150 that I have re-wired using the EZ Wiring kit.  I added door actuators to the doors.  They have two wires each.  Now I would like to add door lock switches and the viper 211 keyless entry.  The problem is that I do not no how to wire the viper system or the switches.  I am planning on using aftermarket switches from SPAL.  Below is the wires with the Viper 211 system.  I have a door lock power wire coming from the fuse box and I figured it wires to the H1/1-red wire .  From here I'm lost.   I do not care about the horn honk but I would like to use the domelight supervision and the parking light flash wires. .  Please help.

H1/1-Red    (+) 12V constant power input

H1/2-Blue   (-)200ma Second unlock output

H1/3-BLACK/ White-1      Input of domelight supervision relay #87

H1/4-BLACK/ White          Output of domelight supervision relay #30

H1/5-GREEN/ Black         lock #30 Common output

H1/6-WHITE/ Black            lock #87 Normally closed

H1/7-Violet/Black            lock #87 Normally open (input)

H1/8-Blue/Black              unlock #87 normally open (input)

H1/9-Violet                        unlock #87 normally open (input)

H1/10-White                     (+-/-) Parking light flash output

H1/11-Black                      (-) Chassis Ground

H1/12-Brown                     (-) Horn honk output

H1/13-Lt. GREEN/ Black     factory alarm disarm

H1/14-WHITE/ Blue              (-)200mA channel 3 validity output

H1/15-Yellow                     (+)switched ignition

H1/16-Orange                   (-)500mA ground when armed output

H1/17-BROWN / Black           unlock #87a normally closed

H1/18-RED / White              (-)output of channel2




Replies:

Posted By: howie ll
Date Posted: March 02, 2011 at 12:29 AM
Get the switch, you only really need one by the driver but it is doable with four. You will be carrying 3 wires to each door, one a constant live fused at 7.5 amps per motor;
GREEN/ black and blue/black to each door actuator (motor).
Purple and PURPLE / black to 30amp fused constant.
BROWN / black and WHITE/ black to ground.
Or dispense with the switches completely which is the normal way of doing things and simply programme the unit for ignition lock and unlock.
Also with 4 switches you will only be operating one door with each switch. The whole thing becomes extremely complicated.


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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.




Posted By: Mike M2
Date Posted: March 02, 2011 at 6:40 AM
I agree, using Howies info will make the locks work fine off the keyless, but adding the switches means they will need thier own relays. The easiest way would be to buy a 451M relay from DEI, it will have the exact same wiring as the above info from Howie. Use this relay to control the switches alone...

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Mike M2
Tech Manager
CS Dealer Services




Posted By: howie ll
Date Posted: March 02, 2011 at 8:01 AM
Apart from the fact that :
A) If this unit has (ign) auto-lock and unlock, there's no need for a switch.
B) Otherwise you would need to parallel that output to 4 master and 4 slave switches wired via 5 contact switches (DPCO) as electric window switches, stupid kludge.

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.




Posted By: fatmax
Date Posted: March 02, 2011 at 7:34 PM
I have two doors and would like a switch on each door, driver and passenger side.  O.K. so I wire the H1/1-red wire to the door lock power wire coming from the fuse panel.  Then the H1/11, H1/17, & H1/6 all just ground to the cab with a screw.  Then wire theH1/5 & H1/8 to the door actuators.  I lost on where to wire the H1/7 & H1/9.  Would they wire to the door lock power wire coming from the fuse box also? What about the H1/15 yellow ingnition wire and the H1/2 bluue wire that unlocks the passenger side when you push the unlock button twice on the key pad?  The SPAL switches (part # 37000118) have a wiring harness but I would still have wire in the keyless.  As you can tell I'm completely lost.  Please help.  




Posted By: brcidd
Date Posted: March 02, 2011 at 8:22 PM

Why did you not choose the five wire actuators that come in the aftermarket doorlock kits?  They have no need for switches, in that when you physically move the manual lock, (or use key in door lock) the actuator moves and automatically unlocks (or locks) the other doors.  The switch is built into the actuator- on either front door.  They work great.

Perhaps you only bought actuators, but a aftermarket kit would have given you the relays built into the controller and the two (-) negative input wires to be driven by a remote starter, or keyless entry module....

My first door lock actuator install, I did the same thing- actually went to a boneyard and bought switches out of a given vehicle-- then when I got the kit, I soon realized, no switches necessary...I wasted a lot of time and planning, not realizing how easy it could actually was..



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Brcidd - Engineer That Does Remote Starter Installs on the side.




Posted By: fatmax
Date Posted: March 02, 2011 at 8:33 PM
I did not want the central locking system.  I personally would rather have the switches.  When I bought the viper keyless system The salsman said that switches could be wired in.




Posted By: fatmax
Date Posted: March 03, 2011 at 5:29 PM

Can anyone help me.





Posted By: t&t tech
Date Posted: March 03, 2011 at 8:06 PM
Wild thought just popped into my head, it could be totally stupid depending on how u look at it, purchase two spdt switches, wire the lock for a 12 at rest system, and pick up the ground in the doors and wire in the switches at each door, no extra relays needed, it still does get complicated though.

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COMMIT YOUR WAY TO JEHOVAH AND HE WILL ACT IN YOUR BEHALF. PSALMS 37:5




Posted By: fatmax
Date Posted: March 03, 2011 at 8:41 PM
I do not know what spdt switches are or a 12 at rest system.  I am going to need like this color wire goes here, etc.  I was under the understanding that all the relays needed where built into the sytem and all I would have to do is run the wires to the right place and make the connections. 




Posted By: howie ll
Date Posted: March 04, 2011 at 12:22 AM
Frankly from your replies, don't try any of this, take it to a specialist and see what they say.
To do this properly you need to wire it like an electric window, carry a power wire to each switch and even then that switch will only open/close that door.
Use a 5 wire Spal switch, get the switches and I well tell you what to do all though you won't succeed.

-------------
Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.




Posted By: fatmax
Date Posted: March 04, 2011 at 9:25 AM
Thanks Howie II.  I will let you know when I get the switches.





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