remote start, windows, 03 g35 sedan

Hey guys, I have a 03 G35 Sedan with a basic install on my G35 by my installer. Although, my installer is very hard to reach and I'm just going to do it myself. Finally leaped in and learned how to solder and splice wires, etc.

Long story short, I was told that it was possible to get my Clifford 50.5x to roll my windows down/up. I understand to safely roll it up would be called the "Comfort Closure" feature of the aux.

I've been searching everywhere, even the install guide, can someone be alittle more detailed on how to get my windows to roll up/down? I know that channel 4 will roll it down and channel 5 should roll it up correct? And for that to be achieved, I would have to extend the "-" trigger on my lock/unlock.

Can someone be alittle bit more detailed? Sorry, I just want some clarification before I begin.

This is one for Mr. K Pierson to answer.

The first thing you need to do is verify that the installer ran the lock / unlock wires in to the doors. If they hacked your BCM or used a module the comfort closure won't work.

Once you have the lock and unlock wires inside the doors all you need to do is extend the (-) triggers on them to raise and lower the windows. You can do this several ways depending on the options of your alarm. If your alarm has comfort closure you can program the lock output to automatically extend. This is very convenient, but to my knowledge you can't bypass it, so you can never leave the windows down or vented which would drive me crazy in the summer.

If you want total control and have AUX channels (or even timed aux channels) you can hook the AUX channels right in to the lock and unlock wires (one AUX for each) at the alarm brain. This way, you have total control, but you have to remember to hit the correct AUX button each time you want the windows to go up and down. This can also create a security concern due to the range of your remote in the instance that you are 5,000' from your car and you accidentally hit the AUX button to lower the windows (and disarm and unlock the car).

So, to summarize, first verify that the lock and unlock wires are ran in to the door. Then, decide how you want the system to operate (both on window up and window down).

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Kevin Pierson

Thanks Kevin, I referred to you because this vehicle isn't on sale in the UK and I didn't know if it had total close. I would suggest that the poster programmes for a separate aux set timed for however long it takes to close the windows and roof if that's included + 2 secs.
To vent the windows, use another aux on pulsed output or say timed 1 sec. this will of course unlock the car so the lock button should be pressed immediately after. As it happens the 50x does have a comfort control so that could also be used for window/roof closing.

Thank you for your prompt reply! When you are telling me to extend the "-" trigger, you aren't talking about wires right? You're talking about programming it via Bitwriter or Valet switch correct?

Another thing, are you sure that the 03 G35 Sedan will work via extending the trigger wire? I know that on my friends 04 Coupe that his window slightly rolls down when I open the door, and slightly rolls up when I close it. My sedan doesn't do that..

YES! We had a good laugh at someone thinking that earlier this year. I suppose I should have stated "extend the timing of the wire that goes to the lock wire", etc.

Haaaaaaaaaaaahahahahaha, and this whole time I'm sitting here thinking "I have to find a negative wire and extend it to where?"

Okay, I got an update, I got the comfort closure feature to work like a charm. Just reprogrammed it, how do I program aux channel 4 and 5 to have a longer - trigger?

Also, It only rolls up my front windows only, what about my rear?

Another question, since the H2 (aux) 6pin harness is right next to the door/lock harness (2pin), can I wire it directly to those wires? I checked and the wires are ran directly to the door.

The rear windows will only work if you have the premium package - there is nothing special you have to do to make them work. The premium package adds anti pinch windows to the rear windows - without the antipinch system the comfort closure won't work. The only way to do them is to add a window module that controls the window motors of the rear windows directly.

The AUX channels should have a programmable timer on them that can be accessed through the bitwriter.

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Kevin Pierson

Thank you! I have figured the most part out, although the window won't roll down. Any ideas? I have it wired to the negative trigger inside the door.. and my lock and unlock features work fine.

Update: I tried reconnecting the wire again, and now it works! Must have been a loose connection, I'm going to go back tommarow morning and resolder everything.

As for the relay, do I really need one? And do you guys think I should fuse the wires that are now connected to my door triggers? I'm still learning about properly fusing. (I didn't install my alarm, I just added the window roll up function.)

This is so cool lol, I want to get it timed so it will roll up half way is there anyway to time it without a bitwriter? I don't have access to one.

What relay are you talking about?

No, you won't need to fuse the AUX channels that are connected to your lock / unlock outputs.

I don't believe you can set up timed outputs without the bitwriter but I may be wrong.

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Kevin Pierson

Kevin, you're correct, can only be set to 30 secs. without the bitwriter.

Hey how's it going, I recently had an installer do my 2003 G35 Sedan for my Clifford 50.5x and I just got a viper 5901 unit from a friend of mine that I want to install into my car. Long story short, I began to pull out the unit & wires and I found a relay that wasn't too pretty. It was the typical relay that you see on the install guides (sorry for being vague) but it was connected to Orange (ground when armed), and one was connected to I believe.. a yellow wire (ignition input into alarm?) What exactly is the reason for that relay?

My viper 5901 came off a G35 coupe which I should have took a picture of because I took the unit out myself. But he already sold the car so that's not an option for me anymore. The viper 5901 also has a relay (RL50?), it's connected to I believe a violet wire in the 18 pin connector of the viper 5901. What is the purpose of this relay? This unit came with a remote start XK07 unit as well.

Also, I looked at the viper 5901 installation manual, it says nothing about a 18 pin connector?

Thank you guys! This is my second time installing an alarm so I'm not a complete noob just second guessing myself.

Hey guys, just wanted to get some clarification before I dove into wiring my 2003 G35 Sedan with a Viper 5901 and XK07 remote start.

So this is a second hand unit from a friend of mine who previously owned a G35 so it's pretty much pre-wired, just need to figure out where each wire goes lol. I took the unit out of his car but totally neglected to take pictures of where each wire goes. Long story short, here are my questions..

H1/1 Trunk Release Output, that was connected to something it has a male connector. But H1/7 Trunk Pin / Instant Trigger Input is also wired up, it has a male connector. (this was a t-tap setup btw) So I'm alittle confused.

And I'm also stuck on how to wire the starter kill? I remember having two wires that were cut and spliced but I don't remember which one went to what. I looked at the vehicle diagram provided by this site, and I was wondering which one do I cut? Starter or "Second" Starter? From there on I should be able to figure the rest out.

Oh and also, the previous installer has H3/2 (Flex Relay Input Ignition 2), H3/8 Starter Input, H3/6 Ignition 1 Input all together. Does that just go to any constant 12v?

One last thing, where does the Pink (Ignition 1 Input/Output) and Pink/White (Ignition 2 Output) all go too? I'm just lost on that part.

There is also a relay connected from the violet wire in the 18pin connector of the unit. What would this relay control? It has 2 pretty heavy gauge wires coming out of the relay..

Thanks for your help, please leave any childish remarks out I really need help getting my unit installed. And I haven't had too much luck with paying installers so I'd like to tackle this myself.

Have you found an alarm/remote start wiring diagram for your car yet? That would answer most of your questions.

Trunk release output connects to the trunk release output of the car

Trunk pin connects to the trunk pin of the car

You will need to cut the starter wire and wire the starter kill through it. Since you are doing remote start you will need to connect the starter 2 wire as well to the starter 2 output of the alarm/remote start.

Remote all the TTaps and solder and tape all your connections.

Connect all your inputs to a high current battery source. Some people will tell you to run those wires directly to the battery and fuse it at the battery. There should be a high current power wire right in the ignition harness though that will work.

Connect Ignition 1 to the ignition wire of the car. From memory I don't believe your car has a second ignition. (the wiring guide will tell you this).

I'm guessing that the relay connect to the small violet wire is for the second starter.

Good luck!

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Kevin Pierson

Thanks! You were a great help today, I found a DIY that was on my350z that I can kinda base my install off of and I got a chance to read a bunch of other FAQs/DIY to help refresh my memory. I shouldn't have anymore problems with this install.

Hey so it seems I got most of my wires wired up! Everything works great, parking lights, unlock/lock, door triggers, trunk triggers, trunk release. Remote start is wired correctly, orange to ignition 1, blue to can high, red to can low, d2d is hooked up, not yet to led. The pink wire is connected to ignition 1, pink/white is connected to starter 2, and constant 12v is connected to the WHITE/ blue. I cut the WHITE/ red (starter 1) and violet is car side, green is key side. Everything checks out nice, soldered, taped up clean.

1. I try to start the car by key with alarm disarmed, doesn't work.
2. I try to start the car with remote start, lights go dim and I hear a relay click that's it. My remote says "Remote Start Error".
3. My antenna blinks extremely fast when the car is armed.
4. My antenna continues to blink with the alarm disarmed, it's annoying lol.
5. When I tried the remote start, my lights stayed dim! I think it's just cus I have a low battery now. That crap must have drained a lot lol. I'm like 95% sure that I wired everything correctly, I followed a DIY on my350z and tweaked it a bit to work on my G35. I also used the handbook, and xk07 guide, everything. I'm more than positive my wiring is correct!

p.s I wired the can bus high / low behind my cluster using the 40 pin white connector. I was told I could do that according to the xk07 manual. (i have my brain hidden) everything is fused accordingly as well.

can anyone help me out here? i used my previous clifford 50.5x install as a reference to my proper wires, and as well as the vehicle information guide on this website. i honesty don't know what i could have missed!

Ah, unfortunately I can't edit as well but I forgot to mention the shock sensor on the unit isn't working at all. Like I will literally smack the crap out of my window, wheels, windshield, rock my car. Won't go off. I will try increasing the shock sensor, I was wondering I have the old shock sensor that came with my clifford 50.5x, would that be nice to install? or is that just a waste of time & effort.

also, i have a backup battery from my old clifford 50.5x, how do i go about installing that?

also another note since i cant edit, i tried reading the manual about flashing parking lights to tell me my errors, doesn't flash anything, but my parking lights work.

When you try to start the car with the key what happens? I would start by trying to fix this issue, as it is the obviously the biggest problem.

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Kevin Pierson

Thanks for your reply KPierson, I tried turning the key, nothing happens at all. No clicks nothing, it use to start perfectly fine though. Is there a setting that I overlooked inside my alarm? I have starter 1 cut with the violet going to the car, and green going towards the key. I think it might be a menu related issue.

Argh, I dislike not being able to edit but should I mention that I don't have violet, on the 18 pin connector (-) Starter Output not hooked up? The previous installer on the G35 had this hooked up with a relay which I wasn't too sure where it went. I read a DIY on my350z, he didn't use the wire so I figured I could cut it and tape it up.

Ok here's an update, I got the car running again, starter kill works perfectly. It was a dead battery lolol. But remote start still doesn't work. All I hear is a click and nothing else. Does my blue status wire, and tachometer sense have to be hooked up? I'll go ahead and hook those up right now just to test.

Got it to work, my brake switch seems to be backwards? When I step on the brakes it works! When I don't step on it, it doesn't work. What do you think could be the issue there? I wired it directly to the pink/blue!

Fixed! It was late and I accidently wired it to BLUE/PINK instead of PINK/BLUE. Everything works perfect fine. SO BE CAREFUL.

Hey guys, I have a question regarding my Viper 5901 on my 2003 G35 Sedan. This is a completely different topic from my other posts. I was wondering everytime I unarm my car my pager beeps twice and says "Key On", is it caused by my keysense wiring not being hooked up? Also, I was wondering what wire it was? I referred to the vehicle tech sheet here on the12volt, didn't see anything. I'll look around some more but I figured someone might have more insight.

I'm also curious about wiring my hood pin wire somewhere inside my dashboard? I kinda want to keep any unncessary wires out of my engine bay as much as possible so I could have a cleaner engine bay.

Thanks for the great help.

Instead of making another thread, I decided to post here. I'm also having an issue regarding my trunk pin? Everytime I unlock my car it says, "Trunk is open" but it isn't. I wired the (-) Trunk Trigger Pin (Blue) straight into Pin 18 of the BCM (RED / White) Wire. Which should be and I'm pretty sure is the right wire, can anyone help me out?

Hey how's it going had a little issue troubleshooting my Viper 5901 install on my 2003 Infiniti G35 Sedan.

Everytime I lock/unlock my car it keeps saying "ALARM REPORT SHOCK SENSOR" constantly, it's annoying. My sensitivity is like at 7-ish..

And also do I need to hook up my tachometer wire & keysense wire? My remote start works but the only problem is that it takes two tries to make it start up during cold weather.

I'm using the xk07 unit.

You should have the tach wire hooked up to a fuel injector at the BCM under the passenger dash.  You should also have the second starter wire connected.

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Kevin Pierson

KPierson wrote:

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You should have the tach wire hooked up to a fuel injector at the BCM under the passenger dash.  You should also have the second starter wire connected.

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What are the consequences of not having that wire hooked up? I will hook it up today. I just want to know if I did any damage, second starter wire is connected. Car starts up after the second try. Is that normal?

How about the whole shock sensor warning issue, it wont go away!

Remote starting a vehicle requires feedback to determine if the car actually started.  There are two main ways to provide feedback - tach or voltage.  In tach mode the brain monitors a pulsing signal that has a frequency proportiate to RPM.  Another advantage of hooking up the tach wire is that the crank time can be shortened or extended EVERY time the car is remote started based on real time RPM feedback.  Cars tend to crank around 2-300 RPM and idle around 1000RPM.  This is enough of a difference that the brain can differentiate between cranking and running. 

In voltage mode the remote start outputs a start signal for a preset amount of time (factory is 0.8 seconds).  The brain then waits ~10 seconds and checks the cars voltage.  If the voltage has increased then it is safe to assume the motor is running (alternator is working).  If the voltage hasn't increased then the system will try to restart.  Because of the massive voltage drop caused by cranking the car it is impossible to have real time feedback using this method. 

Neither method will hurt the car, one is just obviously better then the other and in my humble opinion should ALWAYS be used.

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Kevin Pierson

Thank you for your great contribution! Can you help explain to me what would be causing my remote to be so annoying? It keeps saying 'shock sensor warning' and nothing activated the shock sensor.

any input?

The only thing I can recommend is to exchange it out for a different unit. It sounds like something is wrong with either the remote or the brain.

Another suggestion would be to start a new thread specific to that problem (and that alarm model).

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Kevin Pierson

KPierson wrote:

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The only thing I can recommend is to exchange it out for a different unit. It sounds like something is wrong with either the remote or the brain.

Another suggestion would be to start a new thread specific to that problem (and that alarm model).

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I started a new topic for that problem, it keeps getting merged into this topic. Its so annoying! This unit was working perfectly fine on the G35 I pulled it off of.. hm.