2002 chrysler t & c remote start issue

I am installing a prestige aps620n into a 2002 chrysler town & country, I connected the
2 12v to the blue/red at ignition
Yellow starter to starter
PURPLE / brown starter 2 negative trigger using a few resistors to get 180ohm resistance via relay from yellow starter wire
pink/white to ignition wire
I then connected the door locks via relays and connected the horn trigger to the BLACK/ red i then plugged in the rs programmed it to go tachless and everything worked fine, other than the horn which did not work via the rs. I then disconnected the rs and taped up the resistors at starter 2 and connected the brake disconnect to WHITE/ tan and the horn wire to the GREEN/ purple.
I then connected the rs unit and nothing worked, using the key the car would crank but would not start, after disconnecting the second starter relay the car would start with key but the rs would not work at all, not even the door locks, I don't get any response at all from the unit all initial connections seem to be intact.

Any help would be appreciated.

Ok I got everything going now, it seems that the rs unit didn't have a ground hooked up for itself and the reason it was previously working was probably due to the wrong cable tied in for the horn which could have been giving it the ground it needed.

Ok now I have a crank but no start even when starting with the key,however the remote locks do work, I can feel the second starter relay kicking in during crank.
I would appreciate any insight as to what can cause a crank but no start even with the key and why if the relay is disconnected the car starts as it should with the key.

did you isolate (cut) the second starter wire with a relay or just tie in the resistor?

Also, I thought the 2nd start wire was supposed to be 150 ohms on an 02 TC?

You could have a power issue. The lt. blue/red is only a 10 amp circuit. For power you should be going to the battery.

How do you have your 2nd starter relay hooked up?  It should be pin 85 to GWR, 86 to yellow starter output of r/s, 87 to ground, & 30 thru the 180 ohm resistor to the PURPLE / brown.

If you dont use the GWR for the 2nd start relay and just use chassis ground you will be sending 360 ohms thru the PURPLE / brown

blanx218 after I realized that it would start with the remote and not the key I figured out what you just told me, I had the relay grounded to the chassis.Thanks for your help

But correct me if my logic is flawed, I believe that if I have it set up the way I had before and not GWR you would not have 360ohms of resistance going down PURPLE / brown but a lot less than 180 since your providing a second neutral path thereby decreasing resistance.

Its been a while since I've calculated a circuit like that but if I remember correctly since its coming from 2 different sources it is a series circuit. I may be wrong but either way its either seeing 360 ohms or 90 ohms with a chassis ground on that relay which isnt correct so it will give you those problems.

Hows it working now? and did you move the +12V constant to the battery? Seen 2 or 3 cars come into the shop because of issues when other installers used that low amp circuit

Yes it's working now I figured that one out before I saw your post, I connected the 12V constant to the low amp circuit at ignition, what issues have you seen with that.

If the remote start would ever short out or pull more than its normal power it can blow the main ignition fuse leaving the car inoperable

Ok but since I'm replacing the 20amp fuse that comes with the rs unit to match the 10amp at the ignition wire it should only short out the rs.
Do you often see a rs drawing more than that, or shorting out.
And is it possible to get a 12v from bcm instead of from under the hood.

You could do that. But theres no telling if the remote start will continue to operate with only a 10 amp fuse. Most remote starts have at least 2 20 amp fuses. There may be a +12V constant wire at the BCM that you can use. In any case that DEI gives a warning about something in their techs sheets I follow them just to be on the safe side.

Ok thanks I guess if the 10amp blows, Ill know it's not enough.

I always hook my remote start power wires at the switch. The brain usually only draws 10mA on its own. The rest of the current required to power the ignition/acc/starter circuits is about 1A since all the wires feed relays and do not directly power any circuits on that vehicle.