blown fuse, 2004 toyota echo

Hey so had this remote starter installed in this 2004 Toyota Echo for over half a year now. This morning driving the car and it died.

Wouldnt turn over, no door locks/unlock, valet switch, anything.

Got it towed home and noticed one of the cars 12v wires fuse was blown. There is 2.
One 40AMP, the other 15AMP.

Not knowing this when i did the install,
On the 40AMP wire I had - (2) 20AMP Remote Start Wires
On the 15AMP wire I had - Aftermarket door lock brain (15AMP Fuse), Alarm parking light relay (15 AMP), and Alarm Brain Power (3AMP) hooked up to it. So i guess it just pulled too much current and blew the fuse ?

I hope that all makes sense.
My question is, how should I wire it to not keep blowing fuses?

Thanks!!

One more thing to add, just looking at the wiring diagram.
I noticed the car also has negative ground switched parking lights, so I can remove one of those 15 AMP wires from the smaller 12v wire.

But is 18AMPS ok ? Should I put one with the 40?
I'm not great with how this stuff works.

Thanks so much!

It is thoretically wrong, but after a year and a half and since you were driving i know the alarm was not active, so it could not have been the alarm directly that would have caused this, indirectly there could possibly be an explanation.

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COMMIT YOUR WAY TO JEHOVAH AND HE WILL ACT IN YOUR BEHALF. PSALMS 37:5

Yeah,
Thanks for the reply t&t.
I basically just dont want it to keep happening, I put a new 15amp fuse in and all seems good for time being.

Just strange, because as driving, its not like any of those three things were doing anything. My other thought is a short.. which is a dreadful thought. As I dont know where to even start with that??

I think im going to switch the parking lights to negative switched, then leave the 18amps on the 15 wire, and go from there. At least if it happens again I know what it is instead of messing around.

Ok so found the wire for the negative light switch, but not sure its the wire? Doesnt do anything when its at ground, and only goes to ground when i turn on of the signals on. Yet putting a wire from it straight to ground does nothing.

So I still have the 2x15 AMP wires and the 1x3AMP wire. Should i leave them connected to the 15 AMP wire, or what are my other options?

Another option would be to remove all the wires from the ignition harness and either look for a heavy gauge constant +12V wire at the fuse box or take them straight to the battery. Probably overkill to go to the battery but its an option

Short of (unintended) physically examining the wiring, I would run with what BOTH t&t and blanx218 stated.
I think the fault is in the vehicle not the R/S also to be on the safe side I would have run the wires to either the battery or the constant (probably thick white) fuse box power source.

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

Ok great, thats what I will do!
Another noob question aha, are we talking about the fuse box inside the car or under the engine?

Is it best then to just take all power from r/s and doors, onto one thicker gauge wire, then just strip and solder it onto the main power going to the fuse box?

Inside the car, no to your second question. Strip back and join all together. Make sure your solder flows right into the joint.

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.