arm/disarm vtss with aftermarket remote

I've just installed a Compustar CM6200 in my 1999 Chrysler T&C. Everything is working great, but I want to arm and disarm the factory VTSS with the Compustar remote. I'm sure there's a way to do it, and I even have the Chrysler shop manual with wiring diagrams, but for the life of me, I can't figure out where the VTSS arm/disarm switch is or what wire(s) to connect to.

I'd like to make it disarm when I trigger the remote start, and arm when I lock the doors.

Anyone know how to do this?

Heres a link to a diagram for this

https://www.directechs.com/tech_docs/Document24737-2.pdf

Blanx, you may have to copy and paste the info for us.  Without a DEI account and password we can not access that info.

Blanx,
I don't have a DEI account and password. Could you possibly copy and paste the info in the thread for us?

Thanks!

Craig, just sending it to you as a regular email.

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

This is great, Blanx! Thanks a ton. Just to make sure, the relays in the picture are not the relays on the BCM but add-ons to ensure a good ground, correct?

I'm going to play with this a little because I want to see if I can get it to act just like the factory fobs - I.e. unlock driver door/disarm vtss on first press, unlock all doors on second press.

Anyone know if there's a different wire for the driver door priority unlock?

Thanks.

Sorry, Mikvot. I just saw that you posted this PDF. If you have any input on the above questions, I'd appreciate your advice.

Thanks!

Correct, after market relays, not so much as to ensure a good ground which YOU should do as good practice any way but to over come the resistors, the alarm's lock outputs won't have enough power on their own.

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

Yeah, I guess I didn't mean the overall ground, but the negative pulse from the remote starter. I like the relay setup.

Now if I can just find the driver's priority unlock wire I think I'm golden.

On that year, I think you can find what you need at the bcm. There will be a row of relays on the front side.I can't remember which ones do what off the top of my head. Lock and unlock the doors with the door switch while feeling the relays, you should be able to tell the which relays are clicking for the doorlocks. You should have three. One for lock, one for unlock, and one for drivers unlock. Now you can pull one relay at a time to tell which function that relay performs. Now all you have to do is run a wire to pin 85 of the drivers unlock relay. If you don't want the factory system to arm with your aftermarket system, you can just use pin 85 of the lock relay to lock all doors. If you do it this way, you would only need one relay for your factory disarm.

Slightly off topic, only done one Rem, they're as rare as rocking horse s**t in the UK but don't you need double pulse lock and unlock?

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

I'm actually tapping the relays right now and it's working to lock/unlock/driver's unlock only. But what I want to do is disarm the VTSS while unlocking (which I think I can do per Mikvot's PDF) and when unlocking the driver's door only. I don't think I can do that by tapping the relays.

Howie, I got your email today but I did not realize you sent it for this topic. 

Apologies Mr I.

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

Update:

First of all, the diagram that mikvot provided is not entirely accurate. If you use this, make sure to hook the 12V+ to the 85 terminal on all relays and use the input (-) to the 86 terminal. If you don't, you'll end up sending a 12V+ to your brain box and fry at least that part of it.

So, I got the lock/arm and unlock/disarm to work, but could never find a way to disarm the VTSS when only unlocking the driver's door. If anyone knows how, I'd love to know.

What I ended up doing is tapping the 85 terminals of the driver unlock and lock relays on the BCM and then using the 665 ohm resistor to the WT/DG wire. This way, the VTSS will not arm when locking w/the Compustar remotes. However, if the VTSS gets armed another way (say by locking the door w/the key) and is triggered, I can silence it when I unlock all the doors.

Hope this helps. This is the first remote starter I've installed and I will say, I'm impressed w/Compustar. Pretty simple overall.

robthink; good work but for your future knowledge, mikvot is never wrong, in fact ISO convention makes 85 the neg side of the coil, very important for relays with built in diodes.

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

I mean no disrespect as I am new to this forum and new to remote starters, but my perspective comes from firsthand experience: when I wired it up the way the diagram said, the brain stopped sending the (-) pulse to the relays wired with 12V+ to terminal 86. After hours of troubleshooting, I had to get a new box.

When I wired them all with 12V+ to 85 and (-) input to 86, (and with the new brain box) everything clicked as expected.