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remote start and check engine light

Printed From: the12volt.com
Forum Name: Car Security and Convenience
Forum Discription: Car Alarms, Keyless Entries, Remote Starters, Immobilizer Bypasses, Sensors, Door Locks, Window Modules, Heated Mirrors, Heated Seats, etc.
URL: https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp?tid=126638
Printed Date: June 11, 2024 at 12:07 PM


Topic: remote start and check engine light

Posted By: damora
Subject: remote start and check engine light
Date Posted: March 20, 2011 at 2:13 PM

I recently installed a bulldog deluxe 500 remote start in my 2004 dodge ram diesel. Everything starts and functions great. I get a check engine light that when checked shows now code. I can clear the light and it will not come on again until i use the remote start to start the truck. Another issue that might be related or maybe not, is that when the truck is running with the remote start the brake warning light on the cluster is lit, even though the parking brake is not engaged, as soon as you put the key in the ignition and hit the brake to disable the remote start the brake warning light goes off. Has anyone had a similar experience with an install?



Replies:

Posted By: damora
Date Posted: March 20, 2011 at 2:16 PM
I meant that when it is checked it shows no code, in reference to the check engine light. Almost the truck is an auto trans.




Posted By: chev104275
Date Posted: March 20, 2011 at 2:31 PM
 IGNITION 1      PINK/WHITE (+)      IGNITION SWITCH HARNESS      
 IGNITION 2      PINK/LIGHT GREEN (+)      IGNITION SWITCH HARNESS      
 IGNITION 3      N/A            
 ACCESSORY /HEATER BLOWER 1      DARK BLUE (+) See NOTE *8      IGNITION SWITCH HARNESS      

NOTE *8 On some Full Size Trucks with Climate Control it may be necessary to connect (3) extra Accessory wires (PINK / YELLOW) and the DARK BLUE Accessory #1 to turn on the A/C Compressor

     Battery          RED          (+)          IGNITION SWITCH HARNESS          
     Ignition 1          PINK/WHITE          (+)          IGNITION SWITCH HARNESS          
     Ignition 2          PINK/GREEN          (+)          IGNITION SWITCH HARNESS          
     Ignition 3          PINK/LIGHT GREEN          (+)          IGNITION SWITCH HARNESS          
     Accessory 1          THICK BLUE          (+)          IGNITION SWITCH HARNESS          
     Accessory 2          PINK / YELLOW          (+)          IGNITION SWITCH HARNESS          

Sounds like you missed an ing or acc wire code and bulldog lists are above you will need to test to find out

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If i Can't Install it    I Don't need it   Joe




Posted By: kreg357
Date Posted: March 20, 2011 at 2:33 PM

Agree with chev104275.

Here is wiring info from Audiovox:

 Battery                RED  (+)                                   IGNITION SWITCH HARNESS  
 Ignition 1             PINK/WHITE  (+)                   IGNITION SWITCH HARNESS  
 Ignition 2             PINK/GREEN  (+)                 IGNITION SWITCH HARNESS  
 Ignition 3             PINK/LIGHT GREEN  (+)    IGNITION SWITCH HARNESS  
 Accessory 1       THICK BLUE  (+)                   IGNITION SWITCH HARNESS   **See Note
 Accessory 2       PINK / YELLOW  (+)                IGNITION SWITCH HARNESS  
 Starter 1              YELLOW  (+)                          IGNITION SWITCH HARNESS

Note: THIS WIRE MUST BE ENERGIZED DURRING REMOTE START TO PREVENT THE ABS LIGHT FROM COMMING ON

It differs from Bulldogs' info.  I would check the ignition harness with a DMM for the extra wires listed and power any extra wires found to see if it clears the problem.



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Soldering is fun!




Posted By: damora
Date Posted: March 20, 2011 at 2:44 PM
I see that you both listed a pink lt/green wire as a thrid ignition wire, but I cannot find this and did not have this wire listed on any of the other diagrams that I have found. I have everything else listed though, and they are all hooked up correctly?




Posted By: damora
Date Posted: March 20, 2011 at 2:48 PM
I also had to use relays to get power to 2 other accessory wires that supplied power to the AC, which I though was why I was getting the cel, but I have supplied power to these, through relays and am still get the cel.




Posted By: damora
Date Posted: March 20, 2011 at 2:57 PM
Judging by this statement and something I read in an older power while researching this, I think that this could be related, because my brake warning light is on as well.

I am unable to find anything in the manual or programing on a way to change this or it it actually does or does not provide power during cranking.

ANY IDEAS?

I am about to just piggy back this off of one of the ignition wires with a relay to see if it solves the problem but I hate to tear back into the wiring and have to go buy another relay just to see. I already have 5 relays tucked up under there for this system so far.




Posted By: damora
Date Posted: March 20, 2011 at 4:05 PM
damora wrote:

I tried to quote this in the last post but it did not work.

Here is the statement I was reffereing to
Note: THIS WIRE MUST BE ENERGIZED DURRING REMOTE START TO PREVENT THE ABS LIGHT FROM COMMING ON


OK, I ran a relay to the blue wire and triggered it with the ign 1 wire from the remote start, this got rid of the brake warning and ABS light but I am still getting the check engine light. I have check the wiring harness over several times and can find no wires that I left out and everytime I check for codes there are none store, I can tell it to erase and it will turn the light off, but as soon as I use the remote start, the check engine light comes back on




Posted By: damora
Date Posted: March 20, 2011 at 4:34 PM
I checked the diagram and cannot find a 3rd ignition wire that is pink/grn ( I said lt/green in my earlier post but what I was calling grn they are calling light green )

posted_image




Posted By: damora
Date Posted: March 20, 2011 at 4:56 PM
Well I cleared the check engine light and tried it again with the relay giving power to the BLUE wire from the ignition switch at all time (including during cranking) and it seemed to have taken care of the CEL. I will keep an eye on it, but I tried a few more times and it seems to be staying off now. Hopefully that was the solution.




Posted By: chev104275
Date Posted: March 20, 2011 at 5:28 PM
Did you test that wire to see if it acts the same way using the key ?

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If i Can't Install it    I Don't need it   Joe




Posted By: damora
Date Posted: March 20, 2011 at 6:06 PM
No but it seems to have gotten rid of the issue.

My next issue that I am just now realizing that I have is that for some reason the deluxe 500 isn't disarming the factory alarm. I got 480 ohms by using a 470 and a 10 ohm resistor but it still isn't disarming. I might need to play with the setting a little more and see if I can get it to disarm.




Posted By: damora
Date Posted: March 20, 2011 at 7:17 PM
the issue is not the resistors the unit is just malfunctioning, I am getting no output all all from the wire that is supposed to be the disarm ouput. I messed with all the programming of the unit and nothing, it will arm, just not disarm, awesome when you have no way of shutting off the alarm.




Posted By: damora
Date Posted: March 21, 2011 at 8:36 PM
I ended up having to trigger the disarm using the door unlock wire and a relay. So far I am not having any issues with an alarm when started with the remote starter and now I can actually use the bulldog remote to unlock the truck without getting an alarm when opening the door. I did figure out that there was no output from the disarm wire on the unit and it was faulty. I contacted bulldog and I was told to send it back for warranty repairs. I decided I would just deal with it as I have it, because I probably wouldn't get the unit back for 6 months and I really just don't want to deal with that.

Seems to be some crappy quality control they have, and I was also told by one person I had a lifetime warranty on the unit and the other customer service said only a year, so I guess no one is on the same page either.

If I was going to do it again, I would have bought a different brand.





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