1999 honda accord lx door lock

Hi,

I just installed my first alarm today.   It is a compustart 3000.   Everything seemed to be working until after I cleaned up all the wiring.  When I armed the alarm, I noticed 1 of the door locks did not lock.  The door in question is the passenger rear door.  All the other three doors locked.   I proceeded to do another test where I locked the rear passenger door lock manually and then armed the car so that all 4 doors were locked.  When I disarmed the alarm, only 3 doors unlocked.  The same door did not unlock. 

When I use the built in power door lock switch in the car, all 4 doors lock and unlock.  I am confused here.  If it was the actuator, then wouldn't  the rear door lock still not work when I use the built in power door locks?  If it is not the actuator, then it would be the wiring.    There are only 2  wires that I hooked up for the door locks and they control all 4 doors.    Am I missing something?

Randy

You can try to touch the lock and unlock wires individually to ground. If all doors lock and unlock the outputs of the compustar may not be enough and you might need to make the ground pulse stronger with some relays. What wires did you connect to for lock and unlock?

Hi,

I figured out the lock problem. It seems as though my battery is getting drained so that it was not providing enough voltage to power all the door locks.   When I fully charge the battery, all the locks work. However, everytime I arm the alarm, my battery seems to drain really low to the point of having
difficulty starting the car.  If I do not arm the alarm, I have no problems starting
the car.

I only did a basic install for now.  Just hooked up the alarm to the horn and door locks.
Here are the wires that I connected.

My alarm is a compustar 3000.

Connector 1:
Red   12V Constant to   white(+) in the ignition switch harness
GREEN / WHITE    Power to the parking lights to the RED / Black(+) in the drivers fuse box
RED / White  12V constant  to White (+) in the ignition switch harness
White   12 V output to accessories to Yellow (+) in the ignition switch harness
Black Ground

Connector 3:
RED / White  (-) door trigger input    to   BLACK/ White(-) passenger fuse box

Connector 4:
Blue (-) 250 mA Unlock Output to GREEN/ red (-) in drivers fuse box
Blue/Black (-) 250 mA lock Output to BLACK/ white (-) in driver's fuse box

Connector 5:
white  (-) 250 mA Horn Output to light GREEN/ blue (-)  in steering column harness

Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks!

Randy

Is there an external starter cut - anti grind relay involved here? If so please describe how it's wired.
There's no way a correctly wired alarm or alarm-R/S would do this unless the car was sitting for a week + with the alarm on. (Draw from the LED).

-------------
Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

rinnisi wrote:

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Hi,

I figured out the lock problem. It seems as though my battery is getting drained so that it was not providing enough voltage to power all the door locks.   When I fully charge the battery, all the locks work. However, everytime I arm the alarm, my battery seems to drain really low to the point of having
difficulty starting the car.  If I do not arm the alarm, I have no problems starting
the car.

I only did a basic install for now.  Just hooked up the alarm to the horn and door locks.
Here are the wires that I connected.

My alarm is a compustar 3000

Connector 4:
Blue (-) 250 mA Unlock Output to GREEN/ red (-) in drivers fuse box
Blue/Black (-) 250 mA lock Output to BLACK/ white (-) in driver's fuse box

---

How did you wire the locks? according to this, it was a direct connection... no relays?

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Gary its $9:50 a gallon here, I had to downsize my car yet again.
Two things:
either a miswired starter cut relay
or
the original battery is bad.

-------------
Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

Hi,

No start cut or antigrind relay.   Yes I directly connected the power door lock and unlock with no relay.  Is a relay required?

Randy

howie ll wrote:

---

Gary its $9:50 a gallon here, I had to downsize my car yet again.
Two things:
either a miswired starter cut relay
or
the original battery is bad.

---

The battery holds the charge as long as I do not arm the alarm.  I will test further.  Is there a quick test that I can run to see if the battery is good or bad?    I have been using a multimeter and testing the voltage several times per day.

Randy

Check your battery at rest, it should read 12.6VDC.
Anything below 12.2, start worrying.
Disconnect the plug from the distributor, or the ignition (BLACK / YELLOW), follow it from the ignition switch to the fuse box, there should be a plug there, disconnect.
Start the engine, it should run but not fire up and crank for 10 seconds. If the voltage drops below 10 VDC, you have a bad battery.
Restore the plug, restart, voltage should increase to approx. 13.8, if lower or higher, bad alternator.
Make sure there's no audio gear such as an amp left on, no dome or trunk lights staying on.

-------------
Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

Another test, disconnect the battery neg. terminal, set your DMM for 10 amps DC setting, neg. probe to battery terminal and pos. probe to disconnected lead. With alarm on and off the difference should be about 30 milliamps.
You should get an at rest reading of about 40-80 milliamps. Anything over 100, you've a serious problem, the alarm is just adding to an already excessive load.
When you put the battery terminal back, have a door open and the keys in your hand, the alarm might trigger on.

-------------
Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

howie ll wrote:

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Another test, disconnect the battery neg. terminal, set your DMM for 10 amps DC setting, neg. probe to battery terminal and pos. probe to disconnected lead. With alarm on and off the difference should be about 30 milliamps.
You should get an at rest reading of about 40-80 milliamps. Anything over 100, you've a serious problem, the alarm is just adding to an already excessive load.
When you put the battery terminal back, have a door open and the keys in your hand, the alarm might trigger on.

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Hi Howie,

When I did the load test, the difference was 0.01 I am not sure how many milliamps that is.
When I did the battery test, my multimeter has 2 settings to test the battery.  DCV and Battery load test.
The DCV reading is 12.59 after my car sat idle for over 12 hours.   The battery load test read 12.40.   Which reading to I use to determine battery charge remaining?

Thanks!

Randy

That tells me that your battery is OK...DCV

-------------
Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.