Printer Friendly Forum Posts - 2002 trailblazer, alarm/remote start

have a couple questions. (tried searching but still a little lost).

i just bought a 2002 trailblazer today.

no alarm or remote start. (i put a viper in my 99 gmc p/u but that was 3 yrs ago so im really fuzzy).

i just went online and ordered a viper 5701 alarm/remote start.

i know i will need to bypass the vats. is it the 555L i need?

also i heard somthign about having to isolate and use relays ofr the locks on this vehicle. my 99 gmc the viper just plugged in to two wires under the dash (bcm i think).

so whats the deal with the locks?

thanks
leon

There are a lot of options for your truck. My vote would be for an ADS/Idata module. The ADS-ALSL-GM from Idata will do door locks, arm/disarm, supply you a door trigger, bypass passlock and more by using one wire to the OBD-II connector.

Head over to Idatalink's website to take a look at the manaul.

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Installer, IT support, and FFL. I need less hobbies.

hope im understanding this right. this unit will work with the viper i just ordered and do everything i need all in one unit so i dont need a seperate vats bypass, seperate relays for the locks and wont have to diode isolate anything?

if so that will be awsome and save me some time and effort. i hope this puppy works cus i just ordered one.

thanks
leon

It does everything listed in the chart on ADS's website. Just follow the instruction manual step by step.

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Installer, IT support, and FFL. I need less hobbies.

got my viper 5701 and my idatalink.

gonna try installing this bad boy tomorrow.

was reading the instruction manual i got here (mine was missing).

it said something about a "flex relay". what the heck is one of those?

i have done a few alarms before (years ago, much simpler) and a couple years ago i did one in my 99 gmc p/u. but this one is definetley more complicated, so i may post a question or two as im going.

so thanks
leon

already got a question.

on the 5701 there is a dark red female plug that is 4 pin. its on the end w/ the thin wires (the H1 harness) not the end w the heavier gauge wires. i can find anything that says what that is for. but im thinking thats for the idatalink port (rs232).

any thoughts?

what's a polarity feed?

i tried searching. and all i found was abunch of people saying if you dont know you shouldnt be installing an alram.

i used to be MECP certified like 10 yrs ago. just these newer remote starts are a pain. and why does dei feel the need to write their install manual with their nose in the air?

if i put an ls1 in a mustang, a 68 camaro, a 98 s-10 (and pass emissions) and wire all of it myself i would think i can do a remote start, no?

or am i just getting too old?

If never heard of this one before, do you mean something that measures ground relative to 12Volts+ such as a Ground When Armed wire or changing the polarity of the lights feed?

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

no. im installing a viper 5701 in the wifes new 02 traiblazer and the install manual kinda sucks.

for the h3 harness #1 pink is ignition 1 input/output and #6red is ignition 1 input.

why 2 ingnition 1 inputs? just makes it kinda confuseing because with a normal relay i can see where the connections are (numbers on the bottom of the relay) but with this you can only go by the manual.

and when you go down further in the breakdown it just says #6red "this wire is the polarity feed for the ignition 1 relay"!! so what the heck does that mean?

just not a term im familiar w/.

i got most of the alarm section done and before i move on to the remote start part im just making sure everything works.

and............it doesnt...

the locks dont work. and i programmed this idatalink thing but who knows if i did it right kuz their instructions arent the greastest (not the worst i've seen).

now im going back out side to fight with it some more. posted_image

From your questions you either aren't reading the manual properly or you shouldn't be doing this yourself.
H3/1 is BOTH the ignition "sense" and the R/S power output to the ignition.
H3/6 Red is the 12v+ CONSTANT input.
So one input.

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

We do not sell DEI products, nor am I even the least bit familiar with them. Ignition wires on some newer vehicles are negative instead of the old traditional positive polarity. I am only guessing that this wire will provide the ignition circuit with the proper polarity. If your vehicle needs a negative ignition wire, ground this wire. this will provide ground to the ignition wire. If your vehicle requires a positive ignition wire, connect this wire to constant positive 12 volts. This will provide your ignition wire with the required positive voltage.

This eliminates the need for a relay to convert the polarity if your vehicle needs negative ignition feed.

Above info is only an assumption. Research it before you take my word for it.

howie ll wrote:

From your questions you either aren't reading the manual properly or you shouldn't be doing this yourself.
H3/1 is BOTH the ignition "sense" and the R/S power output to the ignition.
H3/6 Red is the 12v+ CONSTANT input.
So one input.

then clearly you agree that dei does not write their manuals clearly (because i know your not implying that im clueless).

page 89 lists H3/ pink ignition1 (+)output (also ignition sense input)
that's why i was saying it was weird that they list 2 ignition one inputs.

so if om reading this correctly now, 6 and 9 of H3 go to 12v ignition switched?

i'm pretty sure i was not reading that correctly before. thanks

leon

The red, RED / black and RED / white should all go to a constant 12V+, either at the ignition feed, fusebox supply or battery pos.
They write their manuals clearly enough for professionals.

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

howie ll wrote:

The red, RED / black and RED / white should all go to a constant 12V+, either at the ignition feed, fusebox supply or battery pos.
They write their manuals clearly enough for professionals.

thank you, and im glad to see you agree about how they write their manuals.

i went to college for 3 yrs for my hvac degree. and the stuff i can read for that would probably make alot of people's head spin. but because i went to school just to do that, its a no brainer.

and while i was MECP certified years ago the equipment has become more complex every year and for the diy-er like myself it gets harder every year.

so thanks for the help guys.

going back out side to finish. no if i can just get the dang door locks to work.

I'm not even going to try to explain the locks to you, you have to look at DEI tech document 1053, see if it's here in the downloads section.

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

howie ll wrote:

I'm not even going to try to explain the locks to you, you have to look at DEI tech document 1053, see if it's here in the downloads section.

no, i know how to do them the old fashioned way.i just never used one of these idatalink units before. so that part is gonna take a little while because if something doesnt work right im going to have to figure out were to start looking for a mistake.

also now that i have a handle on this unit. it makes ense basically all the pink wires send voltage out and the red ones are voltage in. it makes sense now. maybe it was just the way they worded it.

one thing i noticed i did wrong was i hooked the RED / white to the igniton 2 wire (white) and now i realize that dont go there.

it should be

pink ign 1        RED / white 12 v batt
pink/white ign 2   red       12 v batt
pink/blk dont need RED / blk   12 v batt

again thanks

02 trailblazer.

i finished my alarm/remote start install. its getting all the signals and it doesnt work.

(viper 5701) i got one of those idatalink units, and this is my first time with one. i tried resetting it several times and the vehicle wont start and the door locks wont work.

everything appears to be working. in getting 12 volts at the starter wire form the 5701, so that leaves me to believe everything is trying to work. but i get no cranking. since the locks AND no start, that is what leads me to believe its the idatalink not doing its thing.

any thoughts? im thinking about getting an xko1 instead. but then i will have to wait till next weekend to finish her up.

thanks
leon

Which iDatalink bypass module?

If it is a Multi unit ( ADS DL, ADS AL CA ) did you flash it with the correct firmware?

Did you connect it tn the W2W mode and set the iDatalink module to Standard Mode ( 2 blinks )?

Did the module program to the Trailblazer as per the install guide?

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Soldering is fun!

leonpiper69, your three topics regarding this installation have been merged into your original topic. https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp~TID~1725

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posted_image

the12volt • Support the12volt.com

sorry bout that, thought it would be less confusing (got yelled at once in another forum for run-on topic).

i used the idatalink ADS-ALSL GM. i set it to one blink because i used the d2d mode. and the module accepted everything as per the instructions. even tried doing it a few times with no luck. one blink held till solid, then started the truck and let it run till it was solid green and then turned it off.....nothing.

i went ahead and buttoned it up so my wife can get to base in the morning. and i ordered an XK01. should be here wednesday.

the alarm arms/disarms (siren and lights)it sends the correct signal from the brian to the idata for the locks. and on R/S it tries to start. it powers everythign on (even the blower motor etc) and then nothing and it waits a few seconds and tries again. again the dash lights up and the blower comes on and there is 12 volts at the starter wire but it will not crank let alone start.

so thats were im at.

anyone has any ideas i will gladly check them later on this week. but may not have time to mess with it till the weekend.

thanks
leon

Viper 5701 to 2002 Trailblazer

Viper Trailblazer @ Ignition Switch
H3/1 PINK IGNITION 1 Pink

H3/2 RED / WHITE FUSED (30A) Red

H3/3 ORANGE ACCESSORY OUTPUT Orange

H3/4 VIOLET STARTER OUTPUT Yellow

H3/5 RED FUSED (30A) Red

H3/6 PINK/WHITE IGNITION 2 / FLEX White *Very important ( Viper default = IGN2 )

H3/7 PINK/BLACK FLEX RELAY INPUT N.U.

H3/8 RED / BLACK FUSED (30A) Red

This still leaves the Trailblazer ACC2 Brown wire un-powered during remote start. The Viper
makes connecting this easy. Use a 30/40 A SPDT relay and a 20 Amp in-line fuse. Wire as follows.

Relay Pin 85 to Viper Remote Start AUX output 5 Pin conmnector, Pin 2 Orange (-) 200mA Accessory Output.
Relay Pin 86 and 87 to +12v constant thru 20 Amp fuse.
Relay Pin 87a not used - insulate.
Relay Pin 30 to Trailblazer ACC2 Brown wire at ignition switch.

All wires should be located and verified with a Digital Multi Meter prior to making any connections.

The iDatlink module is an excellent choice for this vehicle and should perform well.

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Soldering is fun!

The ADs ALSL GM is a nice unit ( IMHO, better than the XK01 ). However, I don't believe the iDatalink port will communicate with your Viper 5701 in D2D mode properly ( different protocol, DBI vs iDatalink ). It will work fine if wired up in the W2W mode, with all the necessary dotted and Red line wires connected as per the install guide Section A, Type 3.

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Soldering is fun!

thats exactly how i have it hooked up. and i noticed the brown acc 2 wire on the 03 schematic (figured mine was the same.

so thats why its not starting? the acc2 needs to be hooked up?

i have used relays a bunch of times so that wont be too hard. heck in my mustang when i put a 2001 corvette ls1 engine in it i used a relay center out of some kind of buick in the junk yard to control all the funtions for the pcm. and it was a mess of spaghetti when i started but it worked great. posted_image

[/IMG]

that post was suppossed to be before yours but i took too long. so when i said thats how i have it hooked up i meant the H3 wires no the idata

sorry. i was trying to post a picture and id didnt work

and i checked the connection in d2d mode and the viper was sending 12 volts constant to the red and ground to the black but i dont know about the ground while running because ...well.... i couldnt get it to start, but i probably should have checked that with the key.

Not having ACC2 wire connected won't stop the the Trailblazer from remote starting, it just won't supply power to all the accessory circuits. ACC1 probably is enough. A lot of the time ACC2 is just the radio and some other non-essential things.

With D2D communications, it does more than just the power, ground and (-) Status Output (GWR) signals. It is a special serial data connection. Each bypass manufacture has their own version. Fortin has Data-Link, ADS has iDatalink and DEI has D2D. The XK01 bypass module must be flashed with the AMDL firmware for your Trailblazer. It will communicate in D2D mode, just set the Viper D2D jumpers to the horizontal position.

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Soldering is fun!

i just got my xk01 today and wont have time till the weekend to try it, but i have a question.

the stuff i read says it comes loaded with the programming for my vehicle, but when i opened it up it says "get it, flash it, done!"

so, do ineed to flash this thing? i dotn remember doing that last time on my other truck.

im thinking i dont have to from what i have read. is this only if you are useing this on a vehicle that is not covered by the firmware that is already installed?

thanks
leon

I'm mostly iDatalink now. Haven't used an XK01 recently but I remember a sticker on the XK0-- modules with a check in the box next to the factory loaded firmware. If it is AMDL you should be OK. Please note, that sticker is what it had when it left the factory, anyone with an XKLoader cable can change it. The only way to know for sure is with the XKLoader cable.

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Soldering is fun!

sweeeeet

it works!!! everyhting works perfect. the olny function i cant get to work is the window roll up feature.

i got it to flash 5 times and locked it. and saved it. and it didnt work. i tried to program it again, and it still wont work. maybe it just doesnt work on this vehicle.

either way, the wife is happy. she got a viper alarm/remote start for her birthday and it only cost me about 200 bucks (including the wasted money on the idatalink).

thanks to everyone that helped me and i will come back here often.