5902 remote start constant start mode

I am installing a Viper 5902 (wiring very similar to 5701) This is going in a 2010 Tundra using a Key-Override-All because it has the 80 bit key. I've got everything hooked up, and was trying to teach the remote, but since it was acting flakey, I rechecked my wiring. Initially, I had a 3 mis-wires.

1) I had missed the BLACK/ white neutral safety input to ground.
2) I also had the Tach input miswired to the violet door trigger input (+), which I believe is not used on the Tundra.
3) And the dark blue (-) 200ma Status output, I had connected to the Key-Override-All, but not the gray wire keysense wire.

All of those have been corrected, but now it seems to always be in a remote starting mode. As soon as I connect the ground, it cranks and starts, but doesn't seem to keep running the starter, so it does sense that much. If I pull all of the fuses out of the heavy harness, it does not try to start, but does turn the headlights on. With those fuses out, but the harness still connected, if I insert the key and only turn to ON, it again starts. If I remove the heavy harness entirely, then it doesn't start.

To me, it seemed the problem might be in the ignition switch wiring, so I triple checked that. I'm pretty sure it's right, but to confirm:

If I pull the J9 plug out, cut the dark green wire , and connect the green Viper heavy harness wire to the plug side, that is also the key side? Then the other cut wire would go to Violet?
Then Red, and RED / Black go to constant +12. RED / White also goes to constant +12, or to a relay? the description field mentions Flex relay input 87.

Also, when the engine is running, neither the brake nor the hood pin grounded (hood up) stop the engine, which I thought they should.

I would really appreciate any ideas, as it's difficult to troubleshoot this when it's constantly trying to start.

Thanks

Do you have the WHITE/ blue wire on the h1 harness connected to anything?

Thanks for the reply Sylvain. Your picture does not match what I have wired. Here is what I have. I'm not sure if I have the starter kill onboard relay (is that the case where you cut the ignition green wire?). Something I can add is even with the neutral safety switch off or even removed, it still starts. I would think that switch would kill the engine in every case. Also, what is the difference between ignition1 and ignition 2?

Is there such thing as a hard reset on this alarm? Like return everything to factory defaults. I know that's not my problem, but I'm not real sure what state the  brain, or key fobs are.

Thanks again.

OK, sorry, had to take a break from this. I reinstalled the ground, then replaced the fuses one at a time. Before I replaced any of the large wire fuses, the headlights were already on. When I replace the solid red fuse, I can hear the truck systems come on, but no cranking. When I replaced the RED / white fuse, it sounded like more systems came on. When I replace the RED / black fuse, the truck starts cranking.

I also checked some continuity with the brain removed. I checked the purple wire vs. all others. The only one it had continuity with was the green. I think this is probably as it should be? Thanks everyone.

I got a little sidetracked on this Number 1 harness. Do these values sound remotely correct? This is with the brain unplugged, just measuring the voltages directly from the harness.

RED / Wht - Not Used

Red 11.7

Brown 0

Wht/Br 0

Black 0

Violet Not Used

Blue 10.5

Green 0.1

BLACK/ Wht 12.3

WHITE/ Blue 0

White 12.0

Orange 11.2

i

Pink to Red, Pink to RED / White, Pink to RED / Black, Violet to Red, Violet to RED / White, Violet to RED / Black all show no continuity at all. 

WHITE/ Blue is not connected, and it is wrapped up, so I'm sure it is not grounded. If it's permissable, you can email me directly at:

 kevin_s_loomis at hotmail.com

I really appreciate your's and Howie's help. 

I saw this unit for the first time today, lol, the remote is a bit bulky, but beautiful, i love it.