2002 subaru impreza rs, clifford 50.7x

I am installing a Clifford 50.7x into my 2002 Subaru Imprea RS on thursday, and seeings as this alarm/ remote start is a little bit more complicated than previous installs, as well as having far more features, I have a few questions I hope you can help me clarify.

H1 = Main Harness
H2 = H2 Harness
H3 = Remote Start

here are my questions:

H1/4 WHITE/ Brown Parking Light Isolation Wire - Pin 87a of onboard relay - my vehicle has (-) parking lights, can I just connect the parking Light output (H1/11) to the parking lights, or do I need to use this relay?

H1/9 BLACK/ White (-) 200mA Dome Light Supervision - what purpose does this serve, I have the door triggers connected, do I need this?

H2/9 Violet/White Tachometer Input - this is more of a vehicle specific question, can I use the green at the back of the gauge cluster or would it be better to use the crankshaft or camshaft position sensor?

H2/18 BLACK/ White (-) Neutral Safety Input - My vehicle produces a ground when in gear, which is opposite this wire. I plan on connecting this to the ebrake switch, I would still like to use the neutral safety switch on the transmission and I have read that i can do this by combining it with the hood pin, do I need to use a diode or something like that?

H3/1 Pink (+) Ignition 1 Input/Output - I believe I should connect this to the Ignition wire on the vehicle

H3/6 Red Ignition 1 Input (30A fused) - I believe that this would be the positive source for the onboard Ignition relay.

H3/9 RED / Black Accessory/Starter Relay Input (30A fused) - I believe this would be the positive source for the onboard accessory/starter relay.

what, if any, of the connections need diodes or relays or any other special attention? The installation manual says if you screw the brain w/onboard shock sensor to the steering column or anything else metal it will negatively affect the shock sensors sensitivity, how should I mount it then?

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Thanks for the help.

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I have gained this by philosophy: that I do without being commanded what others do only from fear of the law.

I am installing a Clifford 50.7x into my 2002 Subaru Imprea RS on thursday, and seeings as this alarm/ remote start is a little bit more complicated than previous installs, as well as having far more features, I have a few questions I hope you can help me clarify.
H1 = Main Harness
H2 = H2 Harness
H3 = Remote Start
here are my questions:
H1/4 WHITE/ Brown Parking Light Isolation Wire - Pin 87a of onboard relay - my vehicle has (-) parking lights, can I just connect the parking Light output (H1/11) to the parking lights, or do I need to use this relay?

***Just connect the white wire and position the fuse for negative parking light output***

H1/9 BLACK/ White (-) 200mA Dome Light Supervision - what purpose does this serve, I have the door triggers connected, do I need this?

***Don’t connect this wire, not needed unless you want your domelight to come on when unlocking the vehicle***

H2/9 Violet/White Tachometer Input - this is more of a vehicle specific question, can I use the green at the back of the gauge cluster or would it be better to use the crankshaft or camshaft position sensor?

***If you’re installing on a automatic vehicle, not needed. You can set virtual tach. If you have a manual transmission, connect to one of the injectors***

H2/18 BLACK/ White (-) Neutral Safety Input - My vehicle produces a ground when in gear, which is opposite this wire. I plan on connecting this to the ebrake switch, I would still like to use the neutral safety switch on the transmission and I have read that i can do this by combining it with the hood pin, do I need to use a diode or something like that?

***Connect to ground if it’s an automatic transmission or to e-brake if manual***

H3/1 Pink (+) Ignition 1 Input/Output - I believe I should connect this to the Ignition wire on the vehicle

***Yes***

H3/6 Red Ignition 1 Input (30A fused) - I believe that this would be the positive source for the onboard Ignition relay.

***Red, RED / White, RED / Black to positive 12V source of vehicle…heaving gauge.***

what, if any, of the connections need diodes or relays or any other special attention? The installation manual says if you screw the brain w/onboard shock sensor to the steering column or anything else metal it will negatively affect the shock sensors sensitivity, how should I mount it then?

***I use tie raps to attach it to some of the vehicle’s harnesses***


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Sylvain Rochon
MECP security specialist
Tech support for remote starters
26 Years of experience counts
I'm here to help.

Thanks for the answers, I forgot to say it was a manual transmission. just to clarify, you are saying to tie strap the brain to a wire harness?

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I have gained this by philosophy: that I do without being commanded what others do only from fear of the law.

yes...more sensitive to vibration when mounted that way....If you have anymore questions, see my profile and you'll find my email. You can send me direct emails.

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Sylvain Rochon
MECP security specialist
Tech support for remote starters
26 Years of experience counts
I'm here to help.

Personally, I would still run tach to that green wire, it's easier than the engine bay, I would also connect the BLACK/ white to the NSS on the engine management. You will find it tests NEG. if the gearshift is in neutral which is what you want. If it doesn't a relay powered with your ignition will do the trick. See my post in this section on Neutral safety.

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

I am going to use the green tach wire first, as it is right there, and if it doesn't work I'll use a wire at the ECU. for the neutral safety switch I am going to use a method I saw on Scoobymods.com where you use a relay with the neutral safety switch, e-brake wire, and 2nd ignition relay to ouput to the neutral safety input on the unit.

another question I had, I was planning on wiring the status output to the clutch wire to tell the car the clutch is engaged, do I need a relay?

what connections should be diode isolated?

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I have gained this by philosophy: that I do without being commanded what others do only from fear of the law.

Use the negative start signal to the (purple / YELLOW wire) at the clutch pedal.

Neutral safety wire directly to e-brake and do the clutch as per Buddholly wrote. The door trigger input from the r/s which is green to the yellow wire at the keyless module which is left of steering column.

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Sylvain Rochon
MECP security specialist
Tech support for remote starters
26 Years of experience counts
I'm here to help.

I appreciate the info and the help, I will use the wiring listed on scoobymods because I like the double back up, e-brake and it has to be in neutral.

what connections need diodes? I know the neutral safety does because it shows the ground in gear and +12v in neutral.

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I have gained this by philosophy: that I do without being commanded what others do only from fear of the law.

Ref the last post: Are you sure, I thoughtall NSS wires showed ground at neutral.

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

nope subaru imprezas are something like 02-04.5 shows ground in gear 12+ neutral and 04.5s and up show groud in neutral 12+ in gear.

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I have gained this by philosophy: that I do without being commanded what others do only from fear of the law.

Is that 12v+ reading only when the ignition is on or constant?

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

not sure

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I have gained this by philosophy: that I do without being commanded what others do only from fear of the law.

If it's ignition controlled we can use a small relay to change it's polarity.
Have you actually tested this yourself are are you quoting others?

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

right now, quoting others, but I will be testing during my install on thursday.

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I have gained this by philosophy: that I do without being commanded what others do only from fear of the law.

Liked I hadn't already guessed, then you wonder why we won't help.

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

even though I seem to know less, I plan on hooking the remote start up properly with the proper inputs, on top of that I am quoting others who have done and posted on subaru specific forums. look at the suggestions from the "help" in this thread:

hook up the neutral safety to the hood pin with diode (works, but not right)

hook up the neutral safety wire from the remote start to the e-brake (again, not right)

my suggestion, from a subaru specific forum (and from someone who has first hand experience), wire the e-brake and neutral safety from the car to a relay to have the proper safety precautions in place.

the so called help were the easy way out, not the safe proper way to do it, unlike others, even with the multiple safety precautions, I will still use manual transmission mode. They design these alarm/remote starts with tons of features, including safety features, let's use them. I'd understand using those suggestions if I were trying to do this for profit and needed it done in a timely manner, but I am doing it for myself and I want it done perfect, every feature working and functioning properly. I appreciate the help, but if I had tested it and nkew I wouldn't be posting here asking for help. feel free to give me suggestions, but don't get mad when I want it done right.

Rant done.

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I have gained this by philosophy: that I do without being commanded what others do only from fear of the law.

Hooking up the neutral safety to the hood pin will NEVER WORK.
The NSS on the R/S has to "see" a ground.
When closed your hood pin is open circuit thus you would have to have the trunk open for the R/S to work!.
Read my bottom lines.
I have a manual transmission, no reservation mode, it's never failed. No parking brake connection, why, I looked at my engine management pin-outs and saw the NSS went to ground when in neutral, I tested it first with a meter before proceeding.

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

that is what I said, I was referring to the transmission ouput for the nss, which will be wired with the e-brake to a relay that will ground the nss from the remote start.

here: https://www.scoobymods.com/showpost.php?p=10979&postcount=12

if the e-brake is not engaged and/or it is in gear, the remote start nss won't see a ground.

still need an answer as to what wires/connections require a diode. The install manual says to diode a couple of the remote start connections, but I have never seen that done, or done it. but if it NEEDS to be done, I want it done.

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I have gained this by philosophy: that I do without being commanded what others do only from fear of the law.

What exactly does it say about the diodes.
Except if you connect all of the above and there's nothing wrong with that, IMO, safety first, you will have to in line diode all of them to the R/S's NSS wire, 1N4004, bands away from the R/S.
How will you be making your connections?

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

Just reading your last post again, you won't need a relay for the R/S's NSS.

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

howie ll wrote:

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What exactly does it say about the diodes.
Except if you connect all of the above and there's nothing wrong with that, IMO, safety first, you will have to in line diode all of them to the R/S's NSS wire, 1N4004, bands away from the R/S.
How will you be making your connections?

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I haven't decided yet, normally I would peel back a little of the plastic, separate the copper strands in the middle, insert the new wire, wrap it around the first wire and then itself, and then tape it off properly, but I will solder the joints if necessary.

nevermind about the diodes, it was the remote start negative triggers that needed to be diode isoleted (if used)

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I have gained this by philosophy: that I do without being commanded what others do only from fear of the law.

SOLDER, heat shrink and Scotch 33+

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

ok, relay question, I have it all hooked up, but the relay will still allow the DEI NSS to be grounded.

here is how I have it set up (I added a diode so the -12v when in gear wouldn't pass, only the +12v in neutral) <- I think the diode is the problem

# 85 -12V when in gear. Green with Black stripe wire from ECU. (+12v when in neutral)

#86 +12V from 2nd ignition relay, relay satelite, pink with white stripe on DEI remote starts. Or a 2nd ignition output that supplies +12V from any other alarm. Some only have a 250mA -12V output so it may require you to use a relay to invert the polarity.

#30 is the green parking brake wire in. Just tap off the wire.

#87A is the black with white stripe Nuetral Safety Switch input to DEI remote starts. May be other colors on other alarms.

 is it a ground to 85 that disables the relay circuit or is it +12v in neutral that powers the relay (also from 85)

as I am typing this, i am almost sure it is the diode that I have added, as in the -12v when in gear disables the relay???

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I have gained this by philosophy: that I do without being commanded what others do only from fear of the law.

figured it out, I bridged the relay and tested it, when in gear, it shows that its gonna start but it never lets the starter engage and then comes back with 8 flashes (neutral safety). no diode when wiring it like this. all installed, all working and completely safe in both manual and automatic mode.

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I have gained this by philosophy: that I do without being commanded what others do only from fear of the law.

Thanks for all the help!

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I have gained this by philosophy: that I do without being commanded what others do only from fear of the law.

WIsh I saw this post earlier. I have had an 02 WRX, 05 STi, and now an 2011 WRX. Safely put automatic transmission remote starts in all of them. On the 2002, just connect the neutral wire at the ECU to the hood pin input of the remote start. No relay needed. If you install a hood pin, diode isolate the two wires.

On 2005+ the polarity of the neutral wire is (+) in gear, (-) when in neutral. I connect the neutral wire at the ECU to the (+) brake input of the remote start (diode isolated from the real foot brake wire). Once again, no relay needed. I then connect the car's parking brake wire to the neutral safety input (BLACK/ white) of the DEI remote start.

Car will NOT attempt to remote start in gear with both setups.

if you read all the posts, you read that I didn't want to do it the half assed way (neutral safety wire to hood pin). I wanted it done properly. I have already done it, and have said it works, like it should so there is no reason to connect it to the hood pin. Thanks for the post, but there is no reason to not use the relay option, not only does it connect to the neutral safety switch in the car to the right input on the remote start, but it uses the handbrake as well.

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I have gained this by philosophy: that I do without being commanded what others do only from fear of the law.

Both ways work fine. I have actually been heavily involved in discussions on how to do this on Subaru websites (Nasioc.com) since my first WRX in 2002. I've done over 15 different Subaru's using a variety of the above mentioned methods from Forester's, Imprezza's, Legacy's and even a Baja. I'll use different methods depending on if I'm using Compustar or DEI remote starters. Compustar products don't have a neutral safety input, which is why I have used the hood input or foot brake input on those.

Jeremy, I'm with you 100% on this. Have you seen my post on NSS?

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.