trunk actuator operated by alarm

Ok everyone I've been researching this a little bit, searching on here and using the net for this. I want to open my trunk with the alarm key pad, and possibly close it as well. . Here's what equipment I've got currently to install, it's in the garage.

Zenesis ZN-502 alarm auto start.
DEI 530T window modules (2) 1 for front windows and 1 for back windows
DEI 529 window module - for sunroof

Ok so, like I said, I've been researching this trying to figure it out because I need two auxilary channels to operate the actuator, one for up and one for down from what I can tell. So that would leave me with needing one more Aux button cause this alarm model only has 2.

So I went to the thinking chair (the bathroom), because my head and my bladder was going to explode, and it hit me. I talked to a guy at Autoloc earlier today about a control module, and he said that the trunk latch, or lock or whatever you wanna call it that holds the trunk closed, now has to come out because the actuator is what holds the trunk shut. That frees up another channel. The TRUNK POP CHANNEL!! That's now the third Aux so to speak. So here's how I've worked it thus far, that I can understand anyway.

There is going to be, regardless, a button inside the cabin, most likely in the glove box with the other buttons, that I can use to open and close the trunk (operate the actuator) from inside. The trunk pop is a (+) output, and the Aux 1 and 2 are both (-) outputs.

Option 1
Trunk pop (+) = Trunk Open (actuator up)
Aux 1 (-) = Window Modules/Sunroof Module
Aux 2 (-) = Trunk Closed (actuator down)

Option 2
Trunk Pop (+) = Trunk Open (actuator up)
Aux 1 (-) = Window Modules
Aux 2 (-) = Sunroof Module
Button in trunk lid to close trunk (actuator down) along with the button inside the cabin.

So those are my two options that I've come up with thus far.

My other two questions that i need answered are these:

1) Since the trunk pop is a (+) output already, does it still need a relay since that's what's going to be used for opening the trunk?

2) Same basic question but for down, if I use Aux 1 or 2, because of them being a (-) output does it still need a relay to close it?

3) Is there a way around removing the latch in the trunk. Isn't there a DEI module that delays operation of whatever it's connected to? So if I had that on the actuator up side (+ I'm assuming)then in theory if I had that as well as the regular trunk latch on the "trunk pop" wire of the alarm, then the trunk would pop as normal, and the delay module then would delay the actuator a split second to come up. Is that accurate and can someone clarify the module that allows this? Is it the DEI528T maybe?

I'm going to go ahead and order my actuators, i'm also doing one for an amprack drawer, and then I'm going to do some bench testing before I actually get it in the car. I look forward to every/anyone's help given. Thanks!

What is your car?????


1) Since the trunk pop is a (+) output already, does it still need a relay since that's what's going to be used for opening the trunk?

If the current coming out of your alarm is enough, yes...if not, you'll need a relay

2) Same basic question but for down, if I use Aux 1 or 2, because of them being a (-) output does it still need a relay to close it?

Yes but you'll need to use a relay to change the polarity.

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Sylvain Rochon
MECP security specialist
Tech support for remote starters
26 Years of experience counts
I'm here to help.

2006 Honda Civic Ex Sedan

So I need to do a test and see what the output is on the trunk pop from the alarm then right?

Isn't the down on the actuator a (-) signal? If it is, why would i need to reverse polarity if the Aux output is a (-) signal. Sorry just trying to understand.


Also, to add to this, does anyone know off the top of their head what the delay time is on the 528T? I'm trying to find it but not having any luck. Thanks!

I just found it, adjustable from 0 - 90 seconds.

What actuator will you use for the trunk? If the down function is negative, then you won't need a relay. I believe that the 528T varies between 0 to 90 seconds.

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Sylvain Rochon
MECP security specialist
Tech support for remote starters
26 Years of experience counts
I'm here to help.

I was looking at this actuator and actually looking in the instructions it looks like it's a reverse polarity operation.

So then I would need a relay on the aux (-) side right?

Here's a look at their instructions.

Now going back to my last question on leaving the trunk latch in. I just looked back in the vehicle wiring and for my car the trunk pop is (-) on the stock and as we've established it's (+) on the alarm. So I'd need to do a relay to reverse that polarity correct?

Oh my, I think i need to sit down, let the smoke clear out of my ears from the brain fire I have, and come back to the table and draw it out.

For the time being, thanks for everyone's help! Keep it coming I'm trying to understand all this as well as find my own answers. I appreciate all the help thus far!

The way that I see your actuator, connect the wire on one side will bring it up than when you reverse the wires, it will bring it down. You'll need to use 2 relays. The question is, will it go all the way up with one single pulse or it needs voltage all the way up and voltage all the way down. If yes, you'll need 2 528T

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Sylvain Rochon
MECP security specialist
Tech support for remote starters
26 Years of experience counts
I'm here to help.

I think that it does need voltage all the way up and all the way down. So I would need two of the 528T's and that would give it the voltage for a certain amount of time? I thought that the 528T delayed the voltage not prolonged it. Am I confused?

Should I just make life easier on myself an not worry about the trunk latch and just use the actuator for the latching part like the guy said?

I'm going to keep doing research I think and see if I can better understand this. IF I could understand how it all works I could understand or figure out how to get to where I want to be.

On the Honda civic 2006, the trunk release wire is a green wire and the polarity is not negative but positive so you'll need a relay to release the trunk before your actuator pushes it up. The 528T is a pulse timer, meaning that when it receives the pulse from the r/s, it will sent the contact for a certain amount of time depending on how many seconds you have adjusted it. The other thing that I'm concerned about, is that actuator strong enough to re-latch the trunk lid closed and lock. If you really want to create that, we could exchange emails and I could draw you some diagrams for you to try.

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Sylvain Rochon
MECP security specialist
Tech support for remote starters
26 Years of experience counts
I'm here to help.

Just a thought to throw a spanner in the works, use a 529t instead of the 528ts. It will shut down automatically at end of play.

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

syl20rochon wrote:

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On the Honda civic 2006, the trunk release wire is a green wire and the polarity is not negative but positive so you'll need a relay to release the trunk before your actuator pushes it up. The 528T is a pulse timer, meaning that when it receives the pulse from the r/s, it will sent the contact for a certain amount of time depending on how many seconds you have adjusted it. The other thing that I'm concerned about, is that actuator strong enough to re-latch the trunk lid closed and lock. If you really want to create that, we could exchange emails and I could draw you some diagrams for you to try.

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You're right. I looked at the trunk trigger/pin color. My mistake. I'll email you today. I'd love to get this figured out, and understand it. Thanks!

howie ll wrote:

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Just a thought to throw a spanner in the works, use a 529t instead of the 528ts. It will shut down automatically at end of play.

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Either way. However it can be done I'm fine with as long as I have the channels to do it with.

I was looking at this before actually and I got stumped with it. I'll look at it again, I saw a link on here or something that referred to it, and see if I can figure it out. My brain was fried yesterday.

The point was a 529 operates both windows up and has a load or end of travel thermal limit, thus no 528s or relays required, just wire to the motor wires as a window closer but play with the orange, ORANGE / black grey and grey/black wires to give you your up-down combination.
I'm also worried about the latching part at end of play.

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

I'm a little concerned about that myself. I'm just trying to figure out if I'm more concerned with the thought, security wise, of the actuator only holding the trunk closed. I'm gonna have thousands of dollars of equipment back there and I want it as secure as possible.

Yes there's a way on the 529T to do one window open and closed. That's why I got one for my sun roof. So I just need to check it out and see how to wire it.

The actuator I'm looking at has a stop switch (I'm sure that's not what it's called) at both ends. Maybe it's called a limit switch?

Limit switch is the correct term.

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

Thanks!

Ok so I've done what I need to do for work now. I'm going to get some info together and start drawing out this bad boy and I'll post it up. Thanks!

Ok so I've run across a diagram that I tried to download to here but can't seem to do it. Actually let me see if I can do it via picture.



on the bottom left it says "alarm output - " and then has diodes coming off those to the 85 pin of one relay and the 86 pin of the other. Both of which are switch wires. Wouldn't this allow me to use the trunk pop button on the remote to open and close the actuator/trunk? This would then also allow me to use the aux 1 for my windows as well as aux 2 for my sunroof module.

Can someone please confirm this?

No the dioded wires are from 2 separate aux outputs, not one. The diodes are correctly put there two protect the alarm-R/S.

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

Now i have had a few beers, but that diagram is only giving a pulse. You still need a timer unless you plan on holding down the AUX output button until the action is over. I saw this done with a timer on a single AUX button once, if the trunk was closed it hit a pin switch activating a relay to flip it from close to open. If the pin switch was pressed down it opened, if it was up it closed...

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Mike M2
Tech Manager
CS Dealer Services

Ok so howie what you're saying is that I would be fine to use this diagram with the alarm.

I would however need to use the trunk pop for one and then one of the aux for the other. The aux already being (-) is fine, but the trunk pop I believe is (+) out of the alarm so I'd need a reverse polarity relay for that. Diodes on both like the drawing shows. Is that all correct?

For a constant power instead of pulse to keep the actuator moving I should run either a DEI 528T on both sides, or should I go with the DEI529T instead so I have one module instead of two? Also if I use the 529T, does it go between the relays and the linear actuator, or between the switch and relays?

Thanks guys!

On that last diagram they've "dewired" the switch to give neg. going from both the switch and the alarm. Use the first diagram.
I have no idea if your trunk pop output from the Zen is - or =,check the manual although DEI product is always NEG.
Use a 529t between switch and motor, you DON'T need the relays.

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

Ok so here's what I've drawn up.

SO my wife and I were talking and we've decided that the safest thing to do with the down portion of the actuator was to put a button on the trunk, and in the dash, to operate the down or closed motion of the trunk. This will prevent closing it and a child getting caught in there, or anything else for that matter, heaven forbid. This will free up the second aux on the alarm and thus being able to separate the sunroof and the window modules.

So let me explain real quick, as best as I can, what the diagram shows. I'm sure this may be wrong, I'm not confident on what I'm doing but it's a shot.

Up and Trunk Pop:

Alarm wire for trunk pop (blue +) into a reverse polarity relay (#86) and out (#87) to the green stock trunk pop wire (green -). Spliced off of that wire (#87 to OEM trunk pop) goes a wire to the DEI 528T Black W/Stripe - Trigger Input. Red - 12v+, Black - Ground, Orange 87A - Not used, Yellow 30 - Grounded, Brown 87 - DEI 529T: Gray + Orange Side 1 (connected together).

DEI 529T:
Blue(Motor Side 1 / Up) - Red to actuator
Brown (Switch Side 1 / Up) - Out to switch in dash

That should cover the trunk pop or latch release, and the timed delay (using the 528T) as well as the switch up front and the alarm.

What I have to remember is that I have to pop the trunk using the OEM lever up front before I can hit the button.

OR; Question: Can I bypass the switch to brown on the DEI 529T, and splice into the pin #86 on the reverse relay that the blue (+) wire is on from the alarm. I think I'd have to diode the both maybe, and then that would then pulse from the switch acting just like the alarm. Wouldn't it? Does that make sense to you guys what I just said? I can draw up another diagram tomorrow maybe for this to explain better.

Moving on.

Down:

There will be another button in the dash (separate) for the down motion much like the up. However there's no need for delay or trunk pop on this one. With that there needs to be a second button in the trunk lid for closing the trunk.

These buttons will share a 12v wire and splice into the ORANGE / black + gray/black wires on side two of the DEI 529T. Before the splice on each switched 12v wire, a diode will be added for safety.

I think this is where I'm a little confused but maybe not. I don't think I need a switch wire on the white of the 529T because the switches I'm using are acting as the pulse on the ORANGE / black + gray/black wires. Is this correct?

Next the green motor wire from the DEI 529T connects to the black wire of the actuator.

This should allow me to close the trunk via the switch in the cabin or the switch in the trunk lid.

If I understand correctly, on the 529T, the orange + gray together should allow the continuous signal to the actuator with a pulsed signal. Same with the other side. Is this correct?

I look forward to your guys's feedback, and most likely corrections of this diagram. Thanks for everyone's time.

Actuator Diagram

Here's an altered version of the diagram without the Brown wire from the 529T connected to the switch as I said before.

Diagram B - No switch wire on 529

I've looked at those two diagrams, can the 529t be operated from a pulse (the grey and grey/black) rather than a constant (orange and ORANGE / black)?
If so you won't need the 528t, just switch the 529t from your relay.

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

The 528T wouldn't be just to operate the 529T, it's do delay the open function on the actuator till after the trunk latch opens. I want a 1 - 2 second delay, so that when I hit the open button, on the dash or on the remote, the trunk latch pops, one thousand one one thousand two, then the actuator opens. That's the only reason for the 528T.

OK, point taken.

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

Yep this is absolutely right...

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Sylvain Rochon
MECP security specialist
Tech support for remote starters
26 Years of experience counts
I'm here to help.

I just noticed something. On the down switches, does that need to be reversed to a (-) polarity before it goes into the DEI 529T?

So feed it from a ground source! Technically, that's always preferable.

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

Wouldn't a ground source be the same as a reverse polarity relay like I have on the alarm? Sorry I don't understand that? I hope noone is getting frustrated with me, I'm really trying to figure out and understand all this as well as get info at the same time. I'm really trying not to just get info from you guys. I appreciate all the help you've all given me.

Did we find out if the actuator goes all the way up with a single pulse or it needs a 529T to make it stop at the end of its course.

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Sylvain Rochon
MECP security specialist
Tech support for remote starters
26 Years of experience counts
I'm here to help.