ultrastart1280 ads al ca in a 07 durango

Need a little help. I hooked up a Ultrastart 1280 with RS232 to a Idatalink ADS AL CA and I can't seem to get the setup to crank. Programmed both the RS and Idatalink per instructions but when I push the remote start button I get the ignition engaging clicks and acc turns on but no cranking. Idatalink blinks green during the process then blinks red once after it fails to start. Then the LEDs on the antenna of the Ultrastart blink.

This is what I have hooked up

Idatalink RS232 to RS
RS direct to injector for tach signal
RS Yellow starter output wire to Idatalink blue (+) starter input wire
RS Blue output to activate vehicle ignition to WHITE/ Red and tapped pink Idatalink wire
RS both 12 volt main power Red wires direct to batt

Here is a video link so you can see what happens.
START VID
This happens with or without the key in the ignition. When I push the RS button its like it turns the ignition on but doesn't crank. It starts fine with the key.

Looks like 7 blinks on the U1280 antenna.  That means it did not Tach Learn.  That should happen automatically on the first key startup of the Durango after the 2 fuses are plugged in.

Try a Factory Reset on the U1280 and then start the Durango with  the key.  You should get 2 Parking Light flashes and 2 horn beeps to confirm a good Tach Learn.  I have found that the iDatalink Tach signal works fine with Ultra Start units and always use that.

Just so we don't overlook anything..  Was the ADS AL CA flashed with the correct CH5 firmware and programmed to Data Mode?  Did it program to the Durango properly?

-------------
Soldering is fun!

Thanks for the reply

It is flashed properly as far as I know - CH5 v2.1

When I do a reset and first start the car up it appears to do the tach learn fine. The LED on the RS flash repeatedly for about 8-10 secs and then I get a single flash on the LED and parking lights. I turn the key to off to exit tach learn and remove the key and push the RS button. I get the acc to turn on and the dash lights up like it is about to crank but that is as far as it goes. After 3 or 4 seconds like in the vid i posted it cancels and flashes the LED 7 times.

It does not chip the horn by the way. Only flashes the lights. The only time the horn chirps is if I press the RS lock button.

Bottom line is the Idatalink is turning red which is a sign of an issue with it. It is either incorrectly wired, programmed to the wrong data mode or has the wrong firmware. Did you set it to data mode?

Have you tried reset? Unplug the power cord, hold the button in, plug it in. The light will start flashing red, let go of the button. program unit to correct mode and to vehicle.

-------------
Mike M2
Tech Manager
CS Dealer Services

Another thought, again not to miss anything.  The iDatalink install guide doesn't show it and you didn't mention it but did you connect the U1280 Black ground wire to a good chassis ground point.

This info from the U1280 Install Guide:
To Tach/ Tachless Learn the system simply start the vehicle with the ignition key. To confirm that
a proper Tach signal has been programmed the system will chirp the Horn/ Siren and flash the
park lights two times. If the tach wire is not connected the park lights will flash and the horn will
chirp 4 times to indicate Tachless Mode. If the Tach is not learned when the start button is
pressed the park lights will flash 7 times.
***The system must be Tach Learned before remote starting***

Also the current version of CH5 is Ver 2.31.  I am not sure if the Type 3 install is different between the two versions.  I would flash the ADS AL CA with the latest firmware and go by the current install guide.  ( Download Install guide 1950 to see how earlier versions of CH5 were wired.  Big differences. )

The horn issue is normal on Chrysler products.  Unless you program the U1280 for the Long ( .5 sec ) horn blast, the car will only beep the horn on the Lock command.

-------------
Soldering is fun!

Mike M2 wrote:

---

Bottom line is the Idatalink is turning red which is a sign of an issue with it. It is either incorrectly wired, programmed to the wrong data mode or has the wrong firmware. Did you set it to data mode?

Have you tried reset? Unplug the power cord, hold the button in, plug it in. The light will start flashing red, let go of the button. program unit to correct mode and to vehicle.

---

done

Yep, I have a good ground hooked up to the 1280.

I don't have the cable to re-flash the unit but I will try to get that done tomorrow.

Thanks again fellas!

kreg357, you said earlier you have always had good luck with the Ultra Start getting the tach signal through the IDatalink so for the heck of it I disconnected my injector lead to the RS and did a factory rest of both the ADS and 1280. I then tried to see if it would pick up the tach signal through the ADS..... No worky. After the factory reset the RS will not learn the tach sig without the injector lead hooked up.

I would try it connected directly from the U1280 Blue/White wire to the ADS AL CA PURPLE / White Tach Output wire.  I'm not sure if the U1280 is iDatalink 2 way capable and that is one of the Red two way outputs.  ( I always go W2W, never fails...)

-------------
Soldering is fun!

I had the 1280 blue/white wired directly to a injector. I did not have the ADS PURPLE / white Tach wire hooked up to anything. Should it be tapped into the previously mentioned connection?

Just a soldered connection between the U1280 Blue/White Tach Input wire and the ADS AL CA PURPLE / White Tach Output wire.  Once the ADS AL CA is programmed to the vehicle it outputs a nice Tach signal.  The Ultra Start should sync up to it on the first key start after a Factory Reset.

The ADS AL CA Brake Output is another signal that should be directly connected between the two modules.  ( It's easier than going to the vehicles Brake switch. )   The U1280 is not an alarm so the other connections in red don't matter.

-------------
Soldering is fun!

Yes, I had the brake wires connected from the ADS to the 1280

One thing I was a little confused about. The ADS wire diagram shows a pink ignition (+) input wire hooked to the ADS WHITE/ red (+)ignition output wire after a diode that is then hooked into the RS (+) ignition input wire. Problem is the 1280 doesn't have such a wire. It does have a ignition output wire however. I hooked into that. Could that be part of my problem? Should I disconnect that from the 1280?

The Ignition wire from the U1280 you should be using is the thick Blue wire from the 6 Pin white molex connector.  The diode and wire connections there are very important and should be followed exactly.  Part of that circuit allows the vehicles ignition signal back to the U1280 for monitoring and remote start option programming.  

 Also note the warning in the upper left of the Type 3 install guide :

WARNING:
DO NOT CONNECT ANY OTHER ACCESSORY, IGNITION OR START WIRE FROM THE REMOTE STARTER TO THE VEHICLE.

There are some additional wires from the U1280 that should be connected directly to the vehicle that are not
shown on the diagram.  Parking Lights, Hood Pin, Horn ( optional ) and chassis ground come to mind.  But not the thick
Ignition, Accessory or Stater wires.

-------------
Soldering is fun!

Got it working. I didn't have the MUX wire hooked up since the ADS diagram did not show a colour to tap into. After looking again at all my connections (for 30th time) and the diagram I hooked the ADS yellow MUX wire to brown purple in pin location #1 ... Viola! She fired up after pressing the RS button.

Now my only problem is it doesn't chirp the horn when I try to enter into program mode. It does chip the horn when I hit the lock button. I didn't want to have to tap into the horn if I didn't have to ... Any ideas?

The bypass won't directly control the horn.  You must connect the U1280 Horn (-) output to the Durango's horn wire. 

-------------
Soldering is fun!

Gotcha!

Soldered, heat shrunk, taped, wire tied and all buttoned up ... works like a charm!

Thanks for your help kreg357

Cheers!