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door locks on au 2007 mitsubishi evo ix

Printed From: the12volt.com
Forum Name: Car Security and Convenience
Forum Discription: Car Alarms, Keyless Entries, Remote Starters, Immobilizer Bypasses, Sensors, Door Locks, Window Modules, Heated Mirrors, Heated Seats, etc.
URL: https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp?tid=126927
Printed Date: April 28, 2024 at 5:26 AM


Topic: door locks on au 2007 mitsubishi evo ix

Posted By: ice32
Subject: door locks on au 2007 mitsubishi evo ix
Date Posted: April 11, 2011 at 5:32 PM

Hey,

I'm in the process of installing a viper 5902 alarm/RS into my 2007 AU EVO 9, i've got most of it working how it should accept for the door lock/unlock.

I've found wiring guides etc around the net for the 2006 evo 9 but they seemed to have changed the wiring for the 2007.

I've got the cars technical manual so if anyone would be able to help me make sense of that so i could work out how i can trigger my door locks id appreciate it.

I've tried grounding them with no luck, i tried this due to the fact when the locks activate one wire loses ground and the other wire gains it.

i did test the wires for 12v but they only showed 3.94v (can't remember if this alternated when locking/unlocking)

Below is the wiring diagram for the central locking system, i've tapped into pin 35/36 of connector c-226
Diagram



Replies:

Posted By: syl20rochon
Date Posted: April 11, 2011 at 9:22 PM
Try this...

posted_image

-------------
Sylvain Rochon
MECP security specialist
Tech support for remote starters
26 Years of experience counts
I'm here to help.




Posted By: ice32
Date Posted: April 12, 2011 at 12:01 AM
Thanks for the reply,

It must be different from the US to the AU Evo's (or Lancers).

But I'll take another look for those wires when i get home.

Any idea on how to trigger the locks?

I believe i have found the equivalent to those wires on my car, but pulse grounding them has no effect.




Posted By: howie ll
Date Posted: April 12, 2011 at 2:46 AM
All the Lancer bodies are the same, I've done UK spec Evos they are identical to Oz except you might have kilos instead of miles and ALL Mits except pre 2000 Japanese spec. Shogun/Montero/Pajero have multipoint neg. switched locking.
If it isn't on the cable loom return from the door, it will be either:
1)On a relay body behind the driver's knee pad to the right of the steering column.
2)Base of fusebox, thin wires, primary black with colours.
Window close however is another kettle of fish, data switching you have to go to each motor.
I would run with Sylvain's diagram.
Test trigger the locks with all doors closed bar the driver's, key away from ignition switch and throw over the locking catch on the driver's door lock mechanism.

-------------
Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.




Posted By: ice32
Date Posted: April 12, 2011 at 3:45 AM
I may be hitting the switch too early then.

I tried an experiment on the ORANGE / pink cables and found i can lock/unlock the doors if i ground one and remove ground from the other (i cut the cable to remove it's ground)

with the lock side cut i can unlock the car with the viper (the indicators don't light up like they do with the stock unlock but i assume i can just bang the Parker wire to the hazard button and get the same effect)

i also can lock/unlock the doors with the keyless entry buttons on my key.

i was just gonna use 2 DPDT relays to remove the ground from one side while the other is grounded and vice versa.

After they are grounded it will sit back at the factory position, i'm not sure if this will work as the ground will probably leave the circuit before the actuator finish's unlocking etc

but I've never had to do this before when activating the central locking so i think I'm taping into the connection to early.

I'll look for a relay in the drivers kick panel area, seems you have done some UK evo's any tips on getting the fuse box down so i can access the rear of it?

To clarify my idea on the relays i'll attach a diagram a bit later and i'll also upload some pics of my kick panel looms.

Thanks for all the help so far




Posted By: howie ll
Date Posted: April 12, 2011 at 4:21 AM
You are doing something completely wrong here, i.e. not testing thoroughly enough etc.
Never ever had any Mitsubishi lock issues, also if you diode separate via 2 x 1N54XX diodes you will operate the indicators (GREEN/ YELLOW and GREEN/ blue? TEST).
Use a Snap-On test light to current swing the lock triggers you will find them that way.
I think you've found motor wires rather than triggers and you've failed to notice the difference which is why this isn't a DIY job.

-------------
Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.




Posted By: howie ll
Date Posted: April 12, 2011 at 4:42 AM
I couldn't find 07 but 06 =
Purple to yellow, Lock.
Light Green, unlock.
In driver's door loom.
08 =
Yellow/red, pin 2 lock.
Grey, pin 3 unlock.
Brown plug, driver's kick panel.posted_image
Use one of these, doors closed, key out of ignition, driver's door left open but latch thrown over, croc clip to ground and probe the wires.

-------------
Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.




Posted By: ice32
Date Posted: April 12, 2011 at 5:23 PM
Righto Thanks,

I'll grab a test light tonight and probe around.

Will any LED test light do or does it need to be that specific test light?

being ground triggered how would the test light respond? does it light up green if you have a complete ground circuit and will i need to flick the drivers door locking latch while probing?




Posted By: howie ll
Date Posted: April 12, 2011 at 6:07 PM
Use an incandescent bulb test light. I'd have shown an LED if I meant that.
The normal bulb version will draw the current to activate the locks.
An LED bulb will not do that. At this stage you're trying to activate the locks. you're not up to testing for them in my opinion because you don't quite know what your doing or how to go about it.
Using a DMM on that vehicle instead of a bulbed test light would be a waste of time.

-------------
Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.




Posted By: ice32
Date Posted: April 12, 2011 at 7:30 PM
I assumed led because i've always been advised not to use a bulb test light in new cars due to them drawing current which can result in airbags being set off.

So if I'm going to be probing around with a bulb test light I'll probably be better off taking out my air bag fuse?




Posted By: syl20rochon
Date Posted: April 12, 2011 at 8:26 PM
Bulb test probs are not recommended because it is almost a direct ground. Vehicles now a days have data wires running all over the place is you probe with a bulb, you may damage the vehicle's computer. I normally use a digital multimeter and I've added an LED that lights up when positive 12V is tested and stays of if it's ground. If the wire rests at 12v triggers with a negative (like negative door locks), my LED will come on when connected but will turn off when door switches or door knob key cylinder is turned or pushed. Try to stay away from a bulb test probe unless your testing a 12v actuator/motor or you're basically checking fuses in your fuse panel.

-------------
Sylvain Rochon
MECP security specialist
Tech support for remote starters
26 Years of experience counts
I'm here to help.




Posted By: howie ll
Date Posted: April 13, 2011 at 2:24 AM
I fell into the trap there Sylvain of being a bit "old school".
I would normally only recommend a DMM, I don't feel though from his posts that our friend is competent enough to read it properly.
As far as I'm concerned, it's discretionary, a Japanese type car is very forgiving, I wouldn't even go near a current Audi/Mercedes or Volvo without one though.
In this instance though using a bulb light will safely draw enough current to trigger the locks without damaging anything.
About half the posts here are from people making mistakes because they used a DMM incorrectly, the other half didn't follow my by-line.

-------------
Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.




Posted By: t&t tech
Date Posted: April 13, 2011 at 6:48 AM
With howard here, japanese cars are very forgiving.

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COMMIT YOUR WAY TO JEHOVAH AND HE WILL ACT IN YOUR BEHALF. PSALMS 37:5




Posted By: howie ll
Date Posted: April 13, 2011 at 11:39 AM
Why do you think I love 'em?

-------------
Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.




Posted By: syl20rochon
Date Posted: April 13, 2011 at 7:22 PM
You're right Howie, Japs are fun because of that. And you're also right that when he hits the right wires, door will trigger with the test light. DMM are the best way to go but if you don't have the proper training and you don't know what you're reading, you're in d@#$P sh#$#$t.

-------------
Sylvain Rochon
MECP security specialist
Tech support for remote starters
26 Years of experience counts
I'm here to help.





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