viper 5901 shuts antenna off

Vehicle Toyota MR2 1991 Automatic
Security System: Viper 5901

I'm contacting you pros here since you do know about the Viper 5901 system more than any other people. I have installed 4 of these systems already with various extra features commanded by the Aux features. The latest Viper 5901 module I got, has 4 aux, not the 3 the others had, and the wire harness was a little different, it had the old RSin and RSout bundles integrated into the old H2 wire bundle. Here's the issue the system works perfectly while the car engine is not running. As soon as the engine is running, the system does not recognizes the remote control signal at all, regardless if the vehicle was turned on by RS or by key. The problem only occurs while the engine is running, as soon as the engine is turned off everything goes back to normal and all features function perfectly. I have never had this type of situation and cannot find a solution. I do not have a Bitwriter, before I spend money on it, I want to make sure I tried all possible solutions. Is like if the system turns off the antenna if the engine is running. Any help you can provide me will be greatly appreciated. I'll post problem and solution in this Forum post once this issue is resolved. Check my older posts for installation recommendations for a 2005 Toyota Tacoma. Thank you.

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Always test. When in doubt, read and study. If still in doubt, read some more. If that don't work, don't do it then or your burn everything... a Chef

You may be experiencing interference from an ecu or another blackbox while the engine is running.
Check to make sure that the ground is making good contact.
Make sure the 5901 module is not mounted to any ecu type module.
Try shifting the position of the module and/or antenna.

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This information is provided only as a reference.
All circuits should be verified with a digital multi-meter prior to making any connections.

From another response I sent:

I use the auxiliary features for other stuff like fuel pump kill, or unlock doors, lock doors etc. even when the engine is running with the key in the ignition. This vehicle does not have key-sense. I installed the IG1 wire to the 2 Ignition wires on the car, I had originally the Viper on-board relay for IG2, but me thinking that was the problem I simplified the install to go with IG1 only (H3/1), and tried to use the remote with the engine running and that didn't fix my problem. I have relocated the module and antenna, not work either. I do notice that on my Installation sheet H3/1 is listed as (+) Ignition 1 input/output, on the old sheet it was listed as Ignition 1 output (also ignition sense input), Could it be that the module is getting a signal back from the IG1 (H3/1) wire and somehow interpreting it as to shut down the antenna? I remember placing a diode on the wire that went to the Xk05 on my 2005 Tacoma to prevent feedback. I know that on Toyota you cannot use the factory remote if the engine is running to unlock the doors etc.. I'm thinking on putting a diode on the IG1 (H3/1) wire to prevent input and see what happens. What you all think? Thank you.

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Always test. When in doubt, read and study. If still in doubt, read some more. If that don't work, don't do it then or your burn everything... a Chef

You dont want to put a diode on the IGN1 wire at all. the alarm needs to see ignition on during start up and while alarm is armed, etc.  They changed the wording in the manual but it all means exactly the same thing. You should also never use the IGN1 output to power 2 different ignition wires without using a relay. this will cause many problems with the system as well as the car. It sounds like either an IGN wiring issue or a defective brain to me. What happens with the functions of the remote while it is remote started, no key in the ignition. Does it work then? I'm wondering why you need the remote to work when the car is started with the key?

I'll switch back the on-board relay to function as IG2, I left all connections ready (just in case). I'm starting to consider that the alarm brain has problems. Unfortunately for me DEI will not merit their Warranty, since I'm not one of their dealers. The reason I need the remote to function while the car is running with key in IG-Switch are the following: to use the remote start feature to exit the car and leave the engine running while short trips, to activate the lock/unlock using the aux (In case I left the key in and doors locked), To activate a fuel pump kill in case of unauthorized access to the vehicle (i.e. carjack), and to be able to use the remaining aux for other stuff not yet contemplated. I always separate the remote from the key while in the vehicle so I have total access the my alarm configuration regardless if the key is in the IG-switch. I emailed DEI asking if there might be a setup option that can be programed to the module to by-pass the antenna if the car is running, but as usual they have not replied. I have done this same alarm install on 3 vehicles already (2004 Toyota Sienna, 2005 Toyota Tacoma, 1994 Toyota 4Runner, and now the 1991 MR2). The only difference I did notice was that the module I got for the MR2 looks different than the ones used in the other vehicles, so they (DEI) did change its design. So I cannot switch modules with the other cars to see if run into the same problem. Thank you on the advise regarding the diode. My last option is if there is something that has to do with the programing itself. One thing I'm very disappointed is the lack of customer support from DEI for non-dealer installers. My last question is could there be a programing feature associated with my problem? Thank you.

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Always test. When in doubt, read and study. If still in doubt, read some more. If that don't work, don't do it then or your burn everything... a Chef

What do you mean it does not recognize the remote? Do you mean you cannot control lock and unlock or what? How do you have everything wired up?

I'll post the wiring when I get access to the file. I'm certain I wired everything appropriately. The remote sends a signal but the console does not respond, only while the engine is running. There might be 1 of two at this point, either the console is messseup, or I somehow programed it to bypass the remote while engine is running.  I did notice that while programing the features I could access more features than those listed in the programing instructions, e.g. Menu 2 is supposed to have like 16 or 17 options, and I was able to get 19 chirps like if there are 19 options in menu 2.  I'm wondering if there are hidden programing features in this system, not listed in the installation sheet. Can someone check if with Bitwriter you can set the system to bypass the remote somehow? at this point I might just have to suckit up and use it that way, until I can get enough $ to get a second console to replace the faulty one. Thanks.

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Always test. When in doubt, read and study. If still in doubt, read some more. If that don't work, don't do it then or your burn everything... a Chef

How did you ground both systems? If you used an existing ground point try relocating them. It is usually a bad idea to use pre-existing grounds since they can carry electrical noise from other components.

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This information is provided only as a reference.
All circuits should be verified with a digital multi-meter prior to making any connections.

the viper is grounded at a standalone new location directly to the vehicle subframe. Not sure what you mean by both systems? This vehicle does not use key-sense. Thanks.

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Always test. When in doubt, read and study. If still in doubt, read some more. If that don't work, don't do it then or your burn everything... a Chef

sorry was thinking of something else while responding to this thread. But the ground question was meant for you.
Where did you install the antenna? Also check for kinking of the antenna wire.

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This information is provided only as a reference.
All circuits should be verified with a digital multi-meter prior to making any connections.

antenna is located behind driver seat in the glass, wire routed from the module through the driver side. I did looped excess wire underneath the dash. no bends.thanks

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Always test. When in doubt, read and study. If still in doubt, read some more. If that don't work, don't do it then or your burn everything... a Chef

Did you mount the antenna to the defroster grid?
If you did, try pulling it away from the glass and mount it away from the grid. The grid may be radiating noise that is interfering with your reception.

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This information is provided only as a reference.
All circuits should be verified with a digital multi-meter prior to making any connections.

No 91, he means the side window and frankly that's where I'd put it on that model, I used to mount the siren in the engine bay*, the main unit under the driver's seat in that model.
*Mid engine, on the right is a large air inlet; mounted adjacent and then took the leads through the bulkhead grommet. UK cars had a factory alarm in the side panel under the glass with all the door, trunk and hood inputs, very convenient.

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

There is no Bitwriter setting to turn off the antenna.   Are you getting an error tone when you press the Viper remote? Some of the older Viper systems came with the keypad lock turned on so after not using the remote it will shut you out so you don't accidentally hit a button in your pocket. Press function then unlock to unlock the keypad.

Does the 1-Way remote do the same thing? Could unplug the H1 harness and lay a screw driver across the terminals to reset the Viper brain and try it again.

Which harness for the screwdriver reset? I'll relocate the antenna too later.

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Always test. When in doubt, read and study. If still in doubt, read some more. If that don't work, don't do it then or your burn everything... a Chef

disregard last post sorry.

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Always test. When in doubt, read and study. If still in doubt, read some more. If that don't work, don't do it then or your burn everything... a Chef

Installation Wiring:
H1/1 – Aux trunk to Unlock relay, I use this relay to unlock doors with the remote while engine is running with key in ignition, I always keep the remote separate from the keys.
H1/2 - + Constant 12v, source white wire IG Switch Harness (IGSW)
H1/3 - + siren output – red siren
H1/4 – N/A
H1/5 – ground – Car chassis
H1/6 – N/A
H1/7 – Instant trigger pin – hood pin
H1/8 - Door triger input – RED / white main wire set running in the driver side door sill.
H1/9 – N/A
H1/10- N/A
H1/11- Parking light output – I used the green with + relay, driver kickpanel.
H1/12- N/A

H2/1 – N/A
H2/2- N/A
H2/3 - N/A
H2/4- N/A
H2/5 – pump kill relay
H2/6 - - N/A
H2/7- N/A
H2/8 – Horn – N/C
H2/9 – Tach – @ connector in engine bay passenger side
H2/10 - N/A
H2/11- N/A
H2/12- N/A
H2/13- N/A
H2/13- N/A
H2/14- N/A
H2/15     - hood pin
H2/16- N/A
H2/17 - +brake shutdown – GREEN / WHITE at brake pedal connector
H2/18- ground

H3/1 - +Ignition – BLACK / YELLOW (IGSW)
H3/2 - - N/A
H3/3- +Accessory out – blue/red (IGSW)
H3/4 - + starter out Car side – Red (IGSW)
H3/5 - +starter in Key side – RED (IGSW)
H3/6- Ignition 1 – Power 12v +
H3/7- Flex Relay out – IG2 – Is a black and Red I think (IGSW), check polarity it is (+)
H3/8- Flex input – power 12v+
H3/9-Accessory starter – power 12V+
H3/10 – No Connection

Door lock
1     unlock out BLACK / YELLOW (-) kick panel
2     lock out black (-) kick panel


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Always test. When in doubt, read and study. If still in doubt, read some more. If that don't work, don't do it then or your burn everything... a Chef

crossing H1 with the screwdriver will delete only entered settings, or will delete everything (including Bitwriter stuff) and set the module just as it comes from factory? I wanna make sure I dont opt myself out of been able to reprogram the module manually, since I do not have a Bitwriter. Thank you.

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Always test. When in doubt, read and study. If still in doubt, read some more. If that don't work, don't do it then or your burn everything... a Chef

H3/8  Pink/Black should not be connected to anything. This could be feeding back into the brain. Also H3/2 RED / White should be connected to +12V constant

Find the vehicles lock relay, one of the wires going into it is connected to the driver's door, cut it and join the unit's end to ground, then you can use the normal lock/unlock wires and save aux 1. You will then be able to lock unlock with the engine running, but please follow Blanx' advice in the last post.

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Amateurs assume, don't test and have problems; pros test first. I am not a free install service.
Read the installation manual, do a search here or online for your vehicle wiring before posting.

H3/8 - doesn't this feeds 12v+ to the onboard relay for the IG2? H3/2 is a 87a relay input for the onboard relay (which is used for IG2), I'll test, but I need to check first to make sure I don't feed IG2 with 12+ power constantly, even while the car is off. I did not run into this problem with the 2004 Sienna or 2005 Tacoma, since I installed this system with the onboard relay used for 2nd Starter and not IG2. It does make sense that H3/2 maybe is the source of 12+ after the car is turned on for some of the alarm components. I'll work on this on Sunday and report findings. Thanks.

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Always test. When in doubt, read and study. If still in doubt, read some more. If that don't work, don't do it then or your burn everything... a Chef

Correction:H3/2 is 12v+ and H3/8 Not connected, this morning I did not had the install sheet with me when I posted the previous reply. To this point Im certain the module has to be bad. I think it may have relay that provides power to the antenna after powerup which is acting up.

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Always test. When in doubt, read and study. If still in doubt, read some more. If that don't work, don't do it then or your burn everything... a Chef

Initially when i read this post i could not reply, but my first thought was a defective brain, the ignition circuit is probably messed up.

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COMMIT YOUR WAY TO JEHOVAH AND HE WILL ACT IN YOUR BEHALF. PSALMS 37:5

Laying a screw driver across those terminals will reset it to factory settings, so back to manual trans, 12 min run time...blah blah. Will also reset V-Tach if you ran that and didn't give the system time to learn it.

Just doing a reset will not change things, I'm with T&T this module has to have one of the relays (internal) burnt. It switches current from one mode to the other (engine off and on), whatever feeds the radio while engine is running, is not working. I'll a replacement when I get a chance and $... I do thank everyone for all your input.

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Always test. When in doubt, read and study. If still in doubt, read some more. If that don't work, don't do it then or your burn everything... a Chef

I ordered a replacement module. I'll post if the new module fixes the problem. If the new module fixes the problem, I'll sell the flawed one on ebay, as is, since I cannot get a warranty with DEI, it will be super cheap, under $50 bid, with the new module new harnesses, siren, antenna, etc.

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Always test. When in doubt, read and study. If still in doubt, read some more. If that don't work, don't do it then or your burn everything... a Chef